Red Dot and measuring troubles

[RU shooter]

I am using a Hornady powder measure and it works wonderfully with everything except RD and 700X trying to throw a consistant weight case to case is about hopeless! is there a good powder measure for Red dot and other flake type powders? I had heard that one of the Lee measures works OK because it uses a rubber wiper or something to that effect?Dont know the model or if the story is true or not? So what do you guys use to throw Red dot ,I'm tired of hand weighing this stuff!

Tim

[AZ-Stew]

I've had good results with the Lyman #55 and the measure on my Dillon RL-550B (modified with a piece of shim stock to reduce tolerance gaps) and the Lyman DPS 1200. The DPS is a bit pricy and slow if you're only going to load pistol rounds, and the Dillon measure is designed to be used on the press, so it's not really a viable option, either. You can probably pick up a Lyman #55 pretty cheap at a gun show or from someone on e-bay.

Regards,

Stew

[Urny]

I use a lot of Red Dot and prefer to throw the charges with a Lyman Accumeasure, which uses interchangeable fixed volume rotors. The charges are very uniform. Mostly Red Dot is used in rifle cast boolit loads.

[woody1]

Red Dot, Green Dot, Unique, Herco all measure consistently enough for me using a Lyman 55 but I do a tap, tap, tap at the top of the throw. I think it settles any bridging of the flakes. As long as the tapping is done with consistency, charges are pretty uniform. YMMV Regards, Woody

[lathesmith]

My Lee Auto-disk does a fine job of measuring both Red Dot and 700X...that is, until charges get below 4 grains or so. I would strongly advise against using either of these powders for such squib loads, unless each one is measured and verified by hand. It's the only safe way to use these powders.
lathesmith

[eka]

My RCBS Uniflow does not measure the flake powders like Bullseye, Unique, or Red Dot very uniformly. It does good enough for combat handgun loads, but not so much for cast rifle loads. What I have found to work for me is to throw just a tad over. Then I use a pencil to tap out a few grains from the pan and weigh on my digital scale. Sounds like a pain, but believe it or not you get pretty quick at it.

Keith

[be603]

My Hornady throws Green Dot super consistently in pistol loads using the smaller pistol metering insert. I have a few inserts and like how I can just mark/leave an insert at a favorite setting and pop in/out of the rotor -- exchange with another insert. Makes for fast changeovers.

[warf73]

My first question is how consistent are you wanting?
I use a RCBS Uniflow and Dillion 550B and my charge may very +.2gr ~ - .1 gr. once the powder dropper is set.

If you are needing any closer than that I would adjust the dropper to go -.3gr and trickle it to the desired weight.


Warf

[Bret4207]

The one really good thing I like about my old Lyman 55 is the knocker. I give it a hard knock at the top of the fill cycle and a lighter knock on the dump. I only use this measure for Red Dot, 13.0 gr., in my cast rifle loads.

I would bet you could use a wood stick or other object to tap your measure and it would help.

[C A Plater]

My best measure for trowing consistent charges of flake and other dot powders is my Lyman 55 with a powder baffle. Mine is a 70's model and did not originally come with the baffle and with out it in place charges tended to get heavier as the powder settled. With it the charges come out rock steady on weight.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

I use Redding No.3's for just about all my single stage powder measuring, except IMR4759, which tends to bridge the drop tube. For this, I use an old Pacific Standard powder measure. This is an excellent measure for large grain, hard to measure powders. The only down side to this measure, is that if you swing the hopper over, without the measuring chamber in place. It will quickly proceed to dump its whole load on the floor. :o
Interestingly, Pacific touted this as an advantage, allowing you to empty the measure without removing it from the stand.
Morgan

[Calamity Jake]

With so many suggestions for the Lyman 55, which is a good one by the way I have an extra(1 of 3) that I don't need, comes with the box and maybe the instructions I don't remember as I am at work and can't look.

$40 shipped to ya, or anyone else that is interested. RU Shooter gets first dibbs if he wants it.

[Boerrancher]

If your powder measure does not have a knocker on it like the Lyman 55, use a heavy duty rubber band and a plastic spoon. Secure the spoon to the barrel of the measure with the rubber band and just flip the spoon a couple of times at the top and bottom of the stroke. Problem solved. This will make just about any powder measure more accurate.


Best wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

[Bret4207]

If your powder measure does not have a knocker on it like the Lyman 55, use a heavy duty rubber band and a plastic spoon. Secure the spoon to the barrel of the measure with the rubber band and just flip the spoon a couple of times at the top and bottom of the stroke. Problem solved. This will make just about any powder measure more accurate.


Best wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

Proof that necessesity is the mother of invention!:drinks:

[Ricochet]

Naw, invention is the mother of necessity. Something new comes along and we've gotta have it! Never knew we were missing it when it wasn't available.

[Dale53]

My Dillon powder measure works extremely well with Red Dot (it is the newest Dillon measure that "bumps" at the end of the stroke). I believe the "bump" is the key to these flake powders. That lends support to those that mention using the Lyman "knocker" for good results.

For those that have problems with 4759 bridging in the Redding measure - there is a bonafide "fix". You need to take a needle file (rat tail version) and "oval" the inside of the drop tube. That is, make the hole "longer than wide" as opposed to the issued "round". That solves the problem for me (an ol' timer at ASSRA imparted that bit of useful data to me). 4759 is used a great deal by Schuetzen shooters with the older original black powder cartridges (32/40 and 38/55, etc).

Dale53

[Morgan Astorbilt]

If your powder measure does not have a knocker on it like the Lyman 55, use a heavy duty rubber band and a plastic spoon. Secure the spoon to the barrel of the measure with the rubber band and just flip the spoon a couple of times at the top and bottom of the stroke. Problem solved. This will make just about any powder measure more accurate.


Best wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

Joe,
Measures like the Redding, RCBS and Hornady, don't need knockers. You just tap the chamber once or twice at the end of the stroke to jar them. One feature, that is detrimental to accuracy, is that they rest in the "fill" position between use. This enables powder to settle in the chamber due to any vibration, such as a flimsy loading bench, or tapping the measure accidentally. I solved this problem by fabricating new handles for my measures that have a counterweight which keeps them in the "dump" position between use. Just a piece of 1/8"x1" bar stock and a brass lamp finial.
Morgan

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa159/pgfaini/100_1817.jpg

[Sprue]

So tell us. What kinda charges and caliber are you talking about? I assume they are very light. 700x is known to give one metering problems with light charges. Never used RD in anything other than shotshell.

If the ole #55 won't do it.......

[RU shooter]

So tell us. What kinda charges and caliber are you talking about? I assume they are very light. 700x is known to give one metering problems with light charges. Never used RD in anything other than shotshell.

If the ole #55 won't do it.......

I mainly use them in 30 cal rifle loads anywhere from 3-13 grs.
I'll try giving the measure a tap and see if it helps,Thanks for the offer Calamity Jake If I dont get better results I will be contacting you about your extra measure. BTW are all the DOT line of powders the same as far powder flake size goes? I've wanted to try some Blue Dot . Thanks for all the help gentlemen,

Tim

[Morgan Astorbilt]

My Dillon powder measure works extremely well with Red Dot (it is the newest Dillon measure that "bumps" at the end of the stroke). I believe the "bump" is the key to these flake powders. That lends support to those that mention using the Lyman "knocker" for good results.

For those that have problems with 4759 bridging in the Redding measure - there is a bonafide "fix". You need to take a needle file (rat tail version) and "oval" the inside of the drop tube. That is, make the hole "longer than wide" as opposed to the issued "round". That solves the problem for me (an ol' timer at ASSRA imparted that bit of useful data to me). 4759 is used a great deal by Schuetzen shooters with the older original black powder cartridges (32/40 and 38/55, etc).

Dale53

Dale, I did that years ago, when I was heavily into Schuetzen, along with boring out a pistol chamber to 3/8" and machining a new piston( for medium powder charges, which Redding picked up on and started manufacturing) but it limits the measure to medium and large caliber cases. The first time I tried to charge my .25-20 with 4227, the powder spilled, and I had to order a new drop tube from Redding. 4759 is the only powder that gives me bridging problems, and I solved that by using the Pacific Standard measure. I've also removed much of the "binding" problems flake powder(Red Dot) gives in Redding#3 measures when using reduced diameter chambers, by adjusting the height of the chamber body, to form a perfectly smooth, uninterrupted surface with the drum. I do this by adjusting the position of the hole that the right side chamber retaining set screw enters. This screw is only on the newer models, the adjustment lock screw(knurled knob) being used on the older models to retain the cylinder. Having older measures, I drilled and tapped my drums, and installed screws. They are visible in the photo, between the handle screw and the chamber.
Morgan

[Boerrancher]

Morgan,

It has been so long since I have used anything other than my Lyman, I had forgotten that about the RCBS and such. But, even when I was using the RCBS I found that by adding the spoon aided in accuracy. I used it just like the knocker on my lyman, at the top and bottom of the stroke. Since the RCBS rests in the fill position, it would make sense that by knocking it 2x with the spoon would settle the powder in the drum.

I bet that the counter wts in the photo do work quite well. Maybe if I had thought of that I would still be using an RCBS. I still have one in a box some place one of these days when I get the use of my right arm back I may drag it out and weld a counter weight on the handle. That is why I hang out here. I have been reloading for over thirty years, since I was a young lad in fact. I always learn something new here.

Best wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

[Slowpoke]

Proof that necessesity is the mother of invention!:drinks:

Or that desperation is the father !

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Joe, The handle is "bumped" in the dump position, to make sure all the powder is dropped, without affecting the volume of powder in the chamber. I use a Lyman #55 also. It was my first powder measure. I've replaced the plastic hopper with a brass one, part of the air pump from a discarded garden sprayer, and use it for BP. I'm still looking for a good #5 at a reasonable price.
Morgan

[billyb]

i mount the handle on the back side of the measure. with the handle in the down position the powder chamber is in the empty position. i have used mine this way so long the handle in the front seems wrong to me. i use a powder measure stand mounted to piece of plywood that i move to where i need it at the time. Bill