Keeping the house warm. In firewood mode full swing.

[Strtspdlx]

So I love burning wood for heat. I also enjoy splitting firewood and cutting down useful trees. I bought my first house in April and I'm just now getting the time to start cutting firewood. Most of the wood I cut is mixed species, and a lot of it isn't very efficient to say the least. I split all my wood with an axe. I'm young right now and I can use the workout of swinging an axe, and I also enjoy the work. To me there's something to be said about cutting and splitting your own wood to help heat your home. It isn't my primary source of heat but when I'm home I try to have the stove running as much as possible. I do have a glacier bay coal/Woodstove. The stove came with the house and I'm not too familiar with it aside from the manual I found online. Overall it performs well enough for me to like it. However right now I have less then a cord of wood cut and split. And it isn't all that dry. I plan on doing more cutting and splitting this weekend and I'm hoping I can get about 2 cords cut and split between Saturday and Sunday. I know I'm being optimistic, but I really want half decent wood to burn this year. So how about you guys and gals. Who else burns wood and enjoys a good fire or even cutting the wood to supply that fire? How do you go about doing it and what tips might you have for someone such as myself that's younger and not very knowledgable?

[DerekP Houston]

i enjoy cutting and harvesting my live oaks in the front....but it is for bbq wood not heat!

[MUSTANG]

Since I retired from the USMC, I have cut firewood every year. Most of our heat is generated from wood, but we use a Heat Pump or Propane for late night heating after the Wood Stove burns down they kick in. I look at splitting firewood as a "Exercise Regimen", similar to former President Ronald Reagan.

[mold maker]

When I was about 8, Dad installed a wood/coal hot air furnace in the basement. It's still there and up until 1964, it was the only heat source. It still provides supplementary heat. When the ice storms come it is again able to keep the house comfortable. Many a meal simmered on top of the fire box.
I envy you fellows with strong straight backs, and the willingness to fell and split wood. In 2011, I had two monster oaks that were mature and dropping limbs. One had 117 rings at the cut line. The other two had in the mid-nineties.
I had them dropped and cut in movable pieces. There was over a cord of wood in the limbs. The remainder after 5+ years of burning, is still stacked waiting it's turn in "old smokie" as Dad referred to it.
I doubt that I'll ever split wood again, my 74-year-old back and hips complain too much. I do love heat you can back up to.

[Pipefitter]

I have not even lit the pilot light on my furnace for 16 years. I burn about 4-5 cords of hardwood per year. It does not matter how cold it gets outside, just how long the cold weather lasts. If it is above freezing outside and we have a fire in the woodstove we have to open the front and back doors and get a breeze going through the house.

Last year a couple neighbors had 5 big trees dropped, and through a deal with the tree cutter all of the logs thicker than a big guys thigh were dumped in my driveway. It took me 5 weeks of cutting and splitting after work and weekends, but we got almost 3 years of wood heat for about $50 in gas and my time. The best part about it was that I did not have to drive anywhere to go and get it.

[snowwolfe]

We have a wood burner in our new house. Love using it. But I quickly learned you cant get a decent fire going and burning easily unless the oak is seasoned at least 18 months AFTER splitting it. No worries about getting wood as our house is in the middle of 42 acres of beautiful white oak.

[country gent]

In reality wood cut this year should be burnt next year this gives it time to season and dry. This years wood should have been cut last winter. Oak, Maple, and some fruit woods burn hot and long. Cottonwood when dry and seasoned produces heat but burns fast, willows and box elders are daytime woods. Split in diffrent sizes smaller for during the day and evening, burns hotter but faster. Bigger chunks for night to help hold the fire longer. For this winter buy some seasoned wood to burn and cut split for next years winter.

[CastingFool]

We had a wood furnace add on in our last house. We needed 4-5 full cords per season, and I would cut wood for 3 days straight, haul it home, and take my time splitting it with a handmade splitting maul. It took some getting used to it, it weighed 12 lbs, but there wasn't much it wouldn't split.

[Strtspdlx]

Thats ine one thing I would like to invest in soon is a good splitting maul. I have a cheap one from tsc. But it's my third one with a fiberglass handle. So far this one hasn't broke, I'm grateful the handles are warrantied for so long. A friend has an older axe. I can't remember the maker of. It looks beatiful. I've been trying to persuade him to sell it to me for some time. But he's under the impression it's made of gold.


We had a wood furnace add on in our last house. We needed 4-5 full cords per season, and I would cut wood for 3 days straight, haul it home, and take my time splitting it with a handmade splitting maul. It took some getting used to it, it weighed 12 lbs, but there wasn't much it wouldn't split.

[GhostHawk]

Agree with Country Gent, buy enough dry seasoned split wood for this year. Keep cutting at a moderate rate for next winter.

[lefty o]

yup, what you cut this year is going to be too wet to burn well. also, it'll split better once it freezes.

[southpaw]

Since you have a late start, look for standing dead trees. They will already be seasoned. Don't turn down any wood, even if you think you already have enough. Try to get a couple years supply put up. I like to do my cutting in the fall/winter. Keeps me out in the woods after hunting seasons are over.

Get a good saw. Go professional, they will last longer. The biggest that you can handle. Atleast 70 cc. It will make the cutting much easier. I use a stihl 064 (~85 cc). It is a bit heavy but when cutting larger stuff it just runs right through it. Put a 2' bar on it and I don't have to bend over to cut. I have a 3' bar I use to cut slab wood into 3-4' pieces for the outdoor burner. A 50-60 cc saw would be fine but you are gonna spend more time cutting the wood up.

Put a box together with your saw tools and several spare chains. Wear your chaps (get a pair if you don't have any). I have seen a couple of guys that were pretty glad that they had them on. I also know some that wish they had been wearing them.

Between my brother and I we put up about 10-12 cords a year. I also get about 10-15 cords of slab wood for the outdoor burner. I don't use much hardwood in it tho. Only the second year with it so still getting a feel for it.

Be careful out there.

Jerry Jr.

[osteodoc08]

Definitely agree with buying a pro saw. Husky XP line or Stihl 0 numbers. Good safety gear is a must. Having seen several chainsaw accidents in my career, you don't want to be one of them. Arboristsite is a good forum for chainsaws and everything related. Check it out.

Fell standing dead wood for this years wood and get it put away first and then work on next years wood. Make sure it's stacked and covered so it doesn't rot. You can build a standing wood shed for next to nothing.

Never stack wood wood agsinst your house or foundation.

[TCFAN]

We burn wood as our only source of heat.The stove we have is a Fireview soap stone made by Woodstock.I do not cut wood now days. I can buy 45.00 dollars worth of wood that will last about four to six weeks depending on the temperature.Most of it has to be split and I use a 27ton hydraulic log splitter.I try to keep at least two years ahead so I have dry wood to burn.In a normal year we light up the stove in mid October and keep it going till sometime in April.

[MaryB]

When I burned wood we did like everyone here is saying. Cut a year ahead, split and stack. We did a lot of standing dead red elm and that we could burn the same year we cut it usually. Now I burn corn and pellets, much easier on the spine!

[MrWolf]

My first reaction to op was not seasoned enough. Plenty of good advise and I will just add to do it right. You don't need to be Superman or you will end up like a lot of us who can barely move half the time with messed up backs. You also know when your splitting time is almost up when you use an electrick log splitter. Laugh, but the one I got worked great for what I needed it for.

[Alstep]

180734180735

Nothing beats belting up the tractor to a buzz saw. Makes short work for cutting firewood. I use a chainsaw to cut wood into manageable lengths, then the buzz saw takes over. The tractor is a 1951 John Deere model B. Chain saw is an old Homelite model C51 made around 1965. Like others have said, cut a year ahead. Split in winter. Keep a good bed of coals in the woodstove, and it'll last overnight easily. Keep your chimney clean. And most important, work SAFELY!!!!!

[toallmy]

I put in a outside wood burner around 10 years ago , it heats the water that runs through a heat exchanger before going to my oil furnace then my oil furnace circulation pump runs the water through my radiant heat in the house . I have burned wood most of my life and don't care for a busting mall one bit . So I picked a burner that can take wood without being split , if I can pick it up it will go through the door , and the blower will burn it . In my rural area I can find a lot of down timber that is seasoned , you may want to consider trying to reach out to people who have recently had properly logged their is a lot of seasoned wood left . Be safe watch the chimney ,

[Battis]

Keep the chimney and stove pipes clean. I had a chimney fire years ago (1988) one week after I had the chimney professionally cleaned - now I clean it myself. That stove had a catalytic converter - big mistake with an outside chimney. A few years back the chimney lining cracked so I installed a stainless steel liner, which has been great. Apparently most chimney fires occur in the fall when stoves are allowed to burn down during the day, then relit at night. Bring the fires up slowly in a cold stove.
Every spring I swear that I'm going to switch to a pellet stove, but every year I keep buying green firewood that will sit until the next season. Lots of work, but good exercise.
An old timer once told me, "Never split wood in pieces too big for your wife to carry."

Side note: I live in MA and I found out the hard way one year that a "face cord" of 110 cubic feet is a legal cord in this state. Now I only buy from NH where a cord is a cord - 128 cubic feet.

[Strtspdlx]

Lots of good advice. I do have what I consider a good saw. It's a husqvarna 365 special. It's kind of a little brother to the 372xp which has a good reputation. As for seasoned wood, I had several felled oaks from the previous owner that I just got around to bucking and splitting. Luckily it was fairly dry, unluckily it was somewhat dry. I feel like seasoned oak is harder to split the. Fresh stuff.
Someone had mentioned something about freezing logs and they're easier to split. I find that interesting because I had done 3-4 cords a few years back and noticed how much easier it was to split the wood when it was 0*. But I never thought about the wood being frozen. I just thought it was me wanting to warm up.
Sagety equipment I definetely lack. I really need chaps and gloves and a new pair of boots. Among many other things.

[Wayne Smith]

If you are in the for the long haul those trees won't last long. Build a relationship with you local wood professionals - they frequently have trees that they have no place for. Usually they will drop them on your driveway for a small price if you ask them.

[Bulldogger]

Not sure I have much to offer, other have given good advice.

Do try for some standing dead trees, they will burn better. I've a good friend who heats with wood exclusively and he burns between 6-8 cords of wood a winter in Maryland near DC. You might be a touch colder in NJ, so closer to 7-9 cords, depending on how much you're heating and how efficiently it is placed and it performs.

Burn the standing dead wood first while the freshly split wood dries out, that will make it burn better than if you light it up now. My friend does this and tries to let "fresher" wood dry for at least 5 months before burning it. Again, he tries to harvest only standing deadwood when he can.

I too enjoy splitting wood, but live in the suburbs and my fireplace can't possibly heat my large rambler home because it's off in the den to the side of the house, so it is strictly for enjoying from time to time. I do enjoy it.

Best of luck and good on ya!

Bulldogger

[ascast]

You like it so much, come to my house. I'll keep you busy. About 5 hours up the road, near Utica. LOL! We put in a Riteway37 in the mid '70's. Burned a hole through the old brick chimney soon after (2-3) years. Replaced it with Stainless Triple wall. That is now showing some corrosion on the welded joints near the top, outside. I can't find a modern made match, so will have to replace all sometime. You will want to put in a SUPPLY AIR run if at all possible. That is, a 3-5inch pipe to the outside for combustion air only. You can use the dryer vent hose, PVC.. whatever is cheapest and easy to work. You will want a dryer vent baffle as well, installed backwards. If you can hook this to the stove air intake great, if not, then put close. This rig will cost about $20 or less. Now ALL THE AIR NEEDED FOR COMBUSTION WILL COME FROM OUTSIDE, not across the floor and your feet, no matter where you are. Much more comfy and will save you fuel. Sorry about the caps, it was not intended. Clean your chimney every month. You will develop a sense of when it needs it over time and adjust accordingly. You do not want a chimney fire, especially in some old brick/stone mess built to handle oil or gas heating. Bldg codes most likely require a separate chimney, go with Stainless steel, craigslist spring and fall.
Buy a good saw, not a homeowner grade, but lower professional grade. i.e. the Puolans have a California carburetor and they last about 1 year.
Insulate and tighten up your house as well as you can.
gotta go good luck

[snowwolfe]

The very first thing I bought for our new house in Tennessee when we moved here was a gas powered log splitter! When your 63 it wont get done unless its easier to do. Second thing purchased was a big Stihl chain saw with a 28 inch bar. That thing will slice through a 24 inch oak log super fast.
One other tip, even though you might have the trees cut down they really don't start to dry out until they are cut into short pieces. But they really need to be split to start drying good.
Seasoned wood means different things to everyone who is selling it. Buy a moisture meter and check it before buy. Look for water content in the low 20% range.

[blackthorn]

Quote "In reality wood cut this year should be burnt next year this gives it time to season and dry. This years wood should have been cut last winter. Oak, Maple, and some fruit woods burn hot and long. Cottonwood when dry and seasoned produces heat but burns fast, willows and box elders are daytime woods. Split in diffrent sizes smaller for during the day and evening, burns hotter but faster. Bigger chunks for night to help hold the fire longer. For this winter buy some seasoned wood to burn and cut split for next years winter."

^^^^ Good advice there! Also, the drier the wood, the less creosote buildup you will get.

[quilbilly]

A wood stove is a wonderful thing. It is the only way to go if you have the opportunity. Eventually you will learn the best woods and the best way to season each for the best burn. I have to plan my woodpiles almost two years in advance in the soggy Northwest since it takes that long to season alder and our property has lots of it. On the other hand, maple takes one year if rounds are split in half and fir just takes one summer if rounds are split in half (three months if in quarters). Sadly I don't have much fir and I use maples for syrup making so have to think hard before cutting.

[Pipefitter]

One more thing, stay away from ethanol gas for that chainsaw. Ethanol burns hotter than gas, and you will burn out the cylinder in the 2 stroke engine. Either buy the premixed gas or find a farm fuel supply that does not contain ethanol.

[bdicki]

I picked up a new Stihl saw that is suppose to be ethanol friendly, we'll see. Burning some water oak yesterday.
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t182/bdicki/fire_zpsd7tiopwx.jpeg

[MaryB]

You would be surprised! Put a fan on the floor pushing cold air into the den, and more fans at the ends of any hallways to pull cold air from them and push it towards the den. Cold air is a lot easier to move than heated! I use a box fan in my bathroom doorway which is 20 feet from the living room and it keeps it 74 in there when it is zero outside.


Not sure I have much to offer, other have given good advice.

Do try for some standing dead trees, they will burn better. I've a good friend who heats with wood exclusively and he burns between 6-8 cords of wood a winter in Maryland near DC. You might be a touch colder in NJ, so closer to 7-9 cords, depending on how much you're heating and how efficiently it is placed and it performs.

Burn the standing dead wood first while the freshly split wood dries out, that will make it burn better than if you light it up now. My friend does this and tries to let "fresher" wood dry for at least 5 months before burning it. Again, he tries to harvest only standing deadwood when he can.

I too enjoy splitting wood, but live in the suburbs and my fireplace can't possibly heat my large rambler home because it's off in the den to the side of the house, so it is strictly for enjoying from time to time. I do enjoy it.

Best of luck and good on ya!

Bulldogger

[ericp]

I cut and split 7 cords a year working two years in advance to allow the wood to dry. I do my felling after muzzleloader season and 8 foot them where they fall. It is a lot easier for me to move the sections on a sled than to try and get my truck or tractor in there so I prefer working in the winter. Bucking and splitting happens during the down months of summer when I don't have much other work to do.


Eric

[Freightman]

I am 77 and my grand daughter and my future grandson have taken wood gathering away for me. ��

[snowwolfe]

You would be surprised! Put a fan on the floor pushing cold air into the den, and more fans at the ends of any hallways to pull cold air from them and push it towards the den. Cold air is a lot easier to move than heated! I use a box fan in my bathroom doorway which is 20 feet from the living room and it keeps it 74 in there when it is zero outside.

I tried fans, not much luck. Then the guy who installed our stove said to crack a window in the room we wanted to pull warm air to. Worked like a charm. Every house is different I guess.

[GaryN]

We don't have many hardwoods around here so things are a little different. Wood dries out faster. I burn mostly quaking aspen and pine. Even so I only split as needed. That way it doesn't matter if it is wet, it is dry on the inside. Also, most of the winter it is frozen (easier to split). I wouldn't be without a maul. I just have a cheap fiberglass handled one. It is at least ten years old and may never wear out. I also use the combustion air idea. It works good. I heat with wood and coal. Last year, no coal at all. It usually takes about 5 cords a year for my house. 2 ton of coal would also be good. It can get down to 20 below here in the winter. My wife gets cold. In the winter I keep the house 80-84 degrees for her and her aged mother. There are a lot of old wives tales going around about stoves. Like for instance, you need a grate in your stove to burn coal. I burn it on the firebrick. Have been for thirty years. If it was going to hurt something it would have by now. My stove is a blaze king. It feeds air through a little square box on the back. Makes it real easy to control the fire. If I put coals back by the intake and open the damper it will start a fire roaring very fast. It also works that way for coal. I like it so well I bought a spare.

[GREENCOUNTYPETE]

Learn to hand sharpen you chains on the saw , a vice and a file with guide are all you need to make a chain last much longer and cut well again any time it isn't pulling the chip you like

I have a vice mounted to a 2x12 that sits on my tail gait and works well I also have a vice mounted to my trailer 5-10 minutes with a file will save you 5 minutes of changing chains and 10 dollars a chain for the shop to sharpen them and the shop can only sharpen them maybe 10-12 times so in the end you have a chain that you purchased for 25 dollars , 10 sharpening at 10 dollars each so your 125 dollars in and now you need to buy a 25 dollar chain to start over again

vs

you buy a 25 dollar chain and a 25 dollar set of files with guide and some spare files and you sharpened 30-40 times and can keep sharpening chains for many many years to come with replacement files every 4-5 chains at about 2 dollars a piece

lets just say you get a cord per sharpening , 125 dollars gets you 11 cord you have 11.36 a cord in chain and sharpening costs and they stay constant or 50 dollars gets you 36 cord and you have 1.38 a cord in chain and sharpening costs and they go down lower to just files and chain after the initial purchase.

one more thing bring some singles wood cutting with you , every time you fill the tank on the saw put a dollar in the envelope in your tool bag , when your ready for a new saw the money you need will be right in the tool bag I figure a saw at right about a dollar an hour +fuel , oil , bar and chains probably about 3 dollars an hour with fuel, oil, bar and chains if your hand sharpening

[paul h]

We don't heat exclusively with wood, but it sure is nice to take the chill off. After clearing our lot to build our house we ended up with about 4 cords of wood, here's a small pile from a standing dead birch tree.

http://forums.accuratereloading.com/evefiles/photo_albums/3/4/4/344100033/1171010012_4C00BCCDDE9FC4EB9DD38DC033A6B6EA.jpg

As mentioned, you should let wood season at least a year before burning it, or you'll end up building up creosote in your chimney which can lead to a chimney fire.

A good chain saw will more than pay for itself. If you're cutting decent sized trees, I'd say a 50-60cc professional saw is worth the cost as they cut much faster than homeowner class saws. While I've touched up a chain with a file in the field I've gone to carrying several spare loops and use a grinder at home to get a nice professional quality sharpened chain. It all comes down to saving time.

For protection I use and recommend ear, eye, chaps, steel toed boots and gloves. A hardhat isn't a bad idea.

[MaryB]

A hard hat is a must! I had a dead branch come out of a tree we were dropping. Nobody saw it until it moved then it was to late because it was headed for my skull! Bounced off the hard hat, gave me a sore neck but it beat a trip to the hospital with a flap of skin hanging off my head! Or a cracked skull!

[Iowa Fox]

Wife and I hauled up 9 loads of hickory I cut up last year from the timber the last couple of days. We had a medium supply left at the house from last year. Should be set I hope. Each year see's us a little more pooped out working in the timber, its so darn hilly.

[paul h]

Nothing like a roaring fire as the mercury drops

http://forums.accuratereloading.com/evefiles/photo_albums/3/4/4/344100033/9671036712_D4C60485696F765FB290962E4B3D3D28.jpg

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Future wood gathering:
Here is one little tip no one mentioned yet, if you live in or near a town/city, many times the city has a compost site. They usually haul all the storm downed trees and sickly boulevard trees there...Free firewood for the cutting...and the best part is, you don't have to deal with Brush or the mess, just leave after you cut the wood you want and the city comes in with a payload to clean up.

[Hawgsquatch]

My family has owned a prosperous Husqvarna dealership for fifty years here in the PNW. Here is some chainsaw insight.


1. There is no replacement for displacement. You can get more work done faster with a larger saw creating more horsepower. For a 24" bar, 65 cc's is adequate 70 better.

2. I recommend getting a saw that you can almost reach the ground with while standing flat footed. for me at 6'2' that means I use a 28" bar. I never cut 56" trees, but I don't bend over while holding thirteen pounds out away from my body either.

3. Chainsaw chains will stay sharp indefinitely as long as they do not cut dirt. Imagine dirt as microscopic rocks. I have seen saw chains used to trim mill ends that wore completely out by stretching between the links before they ever required sharpening. They cut literally hundreds of cords of wood and NO dirt. One revolution of your chain in dirt(about 1/10th of a second) and you need a sharpen.

4. When cutting brush, limbs and small wood or hard dry wood, using a short bar (under 24") use a full compliment chain. Tooth, space, tooth. When cutting soft woods, alders, conifers or using along bar (over 32") use a skip or semi skip chain. tooth, space, space, tooth. On a longer bar and bigger wood. The spaces allow the chain to clear itself and you only file half as many teeth.

5. Oregon and Husqvarna branded chain use a softer base metal and are easier to hand file, while Stihl and Carlson chains use a harder more durable base metal that requires a grinder.

6. Avoid cutting with the top of the bar and avoid cutting things smaller than your thumb and the chain will throw less frequently.

If you are pushing the saw it is dull . A sharp saw will pull itself into and through the work. When it stops pulling, start sharpening.

7. Use the chain-brake, wear chaps, ears, eyes,. No such thing as a small chainsaw/shotgun accident.

8. Choose a quality European branded saw that has the following features. Chrome impregnated (not plated) cylinder. Forged Crankshaft and connecting rods. Dual ringed piston, Bearing supported Crankshaft. Aluminum or magnesium oil-tank, crank case. Not a plastic shell inside a magnesium case.

9. Use the highest octane quality fuel you can get, and use the factory mix at the factory recommended ratio and treat any fuel you don't use immediately. Don't store a saw dry, run an amount of treated fuel into it and it will be fine for three months. Running a saw empty leaves a film of fuel exposed to air that will varnish and gum immediately and cause the problem you were trying to avoid.

Some people might ask if I am a Husqvarna dealer, why don't I just recommend a Husky saw? I think all European saws are good products. So are Echo and Tanaka products. Find a good dealer who supports and services what they sell. That is the most important factor.

[paul h]

Couple more minor thing to add.

Buck your trees where you drop them. If you drag them through the dirt, it's just the same as running your chain into the dirt and you'll be sharpening or swapping loops every few cuts.

A properly sharpened chain can't be emphasized enough. There is no amount of hp that will make up for a dull chain, all you make is noise and sawdust when a chain is dulled. Spending a couple of minutes swapping out a dull loop will save you hours of grief trying and failing to make a dull chain cut.

While I like hp...
(my ported 181 was a cutting fiend)

http://forums.accuratereloading.com/evefiles/photo_albums/3/4/4/344100033/6041095502_BB92DFF06340ED4E04FB8E3C675F43FD.jpg

...having a saw that isn't too heavy is also a performance issue. If I was falling and bucking trees daily I would have been in shape for such a heavy saw. But for the occasional wood cutting home owner an 80cc pro saw had my back aching by the end of the day.

My next saw will be a 562 XP :)

[tygar]

It was mid 70s in VA today. Was going to drop the top on one of my convertibles but wife didn't want to mess up her hair. lol

[southpaw]

Hawgsquatch (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?44763-Hawgsquatch),

I enjoyed your post, LOTS of good info there. The only thing I will contest, on a small scale, is #3. I work in a paper mill and I have seen transfer chains worn very smooth (takes LOTS of time). I get what you are saying, just pointing out that if you are cutting something, it is getting dull. Dirty wood makes this happen faster. Sorry for nit picking.

:) I am a good bit shorter than you so my 24" bar works pretty good for me. I like my 064, but then I am young, have broad shoulders and were a small hat.

Good post! :drinks:

Jerry Jr.

[southpaw]

tygar,

It was pretty warm here today as well. I dropped my top and didn't here any complaints. But I was in the woods setting traps. Time to check for ticks.

Jerry Jr.

[Hawgsquatch]

A few extras....

Sharp chain saws actually produce wood chips not sawdust.

Clean the bar grooves with a pocket knife and clear the oil ports in the bar every time you have the bar off of the saw.

Flip the bar over every time you have the bar of the saw to distribute the wear.

Either grease the bar tip every use or never. If you grease it every time, the new grease will force out the grit and metal dust that is produced during use and keep the bearing surfaces lubed. If you never grease it, the bar oil will do the same thing. If you intermittently grease it, the old grease will keep all the dirt right there on the bearings where it does the most damage.

Replace the drive sprocket when it is worn out. A new chain and old sprocket do not mesh. Likewise a new sprocket and old chain don't either. A sprocket will typically last about three chains.

Two stroke engines fire on every revolution. Modern saws turn upwards of 15,000 rpm. That spark plug has a designed life of only 40 operating hours. I recommend NGK and Bosch plugs. You don't want to find out what happens when a spark plug fails.

Use premium fuel. Higher octane reduces detonation and will make your saw last a lot longer. How much two stroke fuel do you really use anyways? The cost is negligible.

How long? My parents have the first Husky saw they ever sold on the wall of the shop, a 1970 Husqvarna model 65. The guy who bought it brought it in to the shop for a service in 1998. When my dad saw the saw and checked the numbers he told the guy to just pick any 65 cc saw off of the rack that he liked and we would call it even. My dad cuts three cords of wood yearly with that saw today.

[Fishman]

My contribution from a lot of wood cutting in the past.

if you need seasoned wood and don't have 18 months, look for logged areas where the tops were left. They will be well seasoned and still have a lot of usable firewood, and the landowner is often glad to get it cleaned up.

Fiberglass handles and heavy splitting mauls kinda suck. Get a good 6 lb maul with an ash handle. There is considerable technique and skill involved that takes a while to master. With the lighter maul you can get your swing velocity up and with the ash handle your hands can slide down to the end of the handle increasing your arc and thus your speed. At the last second relax your muscles and let the handle and head do the work. Done right, the wood just explodes. Sticky wood like elm or live oak is easier with a gas splitter but can still be split this way.

Better a a light low powered saw with a sharp chain than a heavy powerful saw with a dull chain. Always use a sharp chain.

Use a a hard hat, muffs, eye protection, and chaps. Once I had a 5" limb get pulled out of an adjacent tree from a felled tree. Luckily I was bent forward and the butt of it hit my head with a glancing blow or I wouldn't be typing this. I woke up on the ground flopping like a chicken with its head cut off. Bit my toungue mostly off and broke and chipped several front teeth. And oh yeah, a concussion and stitches. The dental and hospital bills would have bought me protective gear for life. This happened even though I had lots of experience.

An acquaintance of mine sawed into the top of his thigh and was lucky it didn't go too deep. Not wearing chaps.

be safe.

[toallmy]

Always have a extra bar and sharp chain , to swap out either when the first one gets dull , or if you get the bar stuck in a log . You can just swap out and cut the bar and chain free of the pinch , it will happen .

[Teddy (punchie)]

Have Not read the whole post but, allot of good info .

BTU out of wood is ?? at some levels. Any way some wood type burn better at different percents of water levels in wood.

Harder the wood the better the heat, is a good rule.

If understand you burning green wood, which is okay, the best no but. After splitting it drys after a week or so inside, good enough to burn anyway.

I would what I call free burn once a week. Let everything heat up hot very hot for an hour or so. Make sure you clean the chimney at least the start of the season. You better have it checked and also look for any birds nests, every year. Old chimney fire you don't want or need one. Never place water on a warm or hot, chimney.


We used one for years to off set the heating like maybe 5 years. I never had a build up of tar from wood ( can't spell creosote )

[MaryB]

Some of the best wood we burned was standing dead red elm. Stuff was no fun to split even with a hydraulic splitter but it burned hot and long. And it was plentiful in the Minnesota River bottom near where I lived.

Nice chart of BTU of different wood species https://chimneysweeponline.com/howood.htm

[toallmy]

It's that time of year again , and I'm looking forward to putting my back yard shooting berm together with a big pile of firewood . I can get a lot more handgun shooting in when I can do it at home .:grin:

[lightman]

We have a fireplace and burn maybe a cord of wood a year. Our fireplace is not very efficient, but it will heat one room to a comfortable level if the power is off. Its really mostly for looks. A roaring fire on a cold Sunday afternoon just makes a ball game more enjoyable and makes a drink taste better! I'm not physically able to cut wood anymore so I buy it, cut split and delivered.

Theres lots of good ideas above about equipment and safety. I used a chainsaw for many years cutting and trimming limbs out of a bucket truck. Most of the advice above from Professionals is spot on. Keep it sharp!

[Handloader109]

Always wanted a fireplace, Had plenty of available trees to pick from in MS. But now here in Arkansas, I need to burn just to keep place warm as it is all electric.. But only a couple of standing torn my 3acres. Resorting to buying. But love the heat and fire!

[bob208]

I get slab wood form the saw mill over the mountain. cut most of it with the buzz saw on the tractor. still split it with a axe. at 67 the doctor calls it good exercise. also burn coal.

[toallmy]

Good bob208 I pray at 67 I will be able to just walk outside and be alive let alone feel like cutting wood .

[WILCO]

I lit the wood stove many times with bacon grease.

[rancher1913]

I lit the wood stove many times with bacon grease.

that is sacrilege, you only use that stuff for cooking :shock:

:grin:

[bob208]

we have a bacon grease catcher with screen. I save to other that cooks out of sausage and burgers to light the fire also save the paper towels I drain the bacon on to start the fire.

[WILCO]

that is sacrilege, you only use that stuff for cooking :shock:

:grin:

When you absolutely have to have ignition, you run with what works.

[MaryB]

Pellet stove purring away, dumped in 30 pounds of pellets when I got up today... hard work carrying that 40# bag in from the garage!

[blackthorn]

Spent two hours moving 24" Dia blocks into my workshop. Good for several weeks with the amount I use. I split it using a wedge and sledge. I will be 79 in two months. Life is good!

[snowwolfe]

Lit the stove once this season, for the last few days it has been in the 70's. All I can say is aging white oak for 2 years makes a HUGE difference in how good it burns. Last year when we used the stove at the end of the day the glass was completely covered with smoke soot. This year I burned the stove for 3 days straight and could still see the flames dance inside.

[funnyjim014]

Running it hot keeps soot off the glass. This early in the season I have a hard time keeping it clean. By mid Feb I burn it off, clear and clean lol

[MaryB]

even with wood pellets I get a dirty door glass, running hotter does it keep it clean. But I use a special wood stove glass cleaner once a week, it makes it easier to wipe soot off during the week.

[Shopdog]

1810 Federal period "repro" estate house.Been cover art several times for real estate rags.I built it from scratch before turning 30,yadayada.

Yukon combination furnace.Oil/wood.Loaded the wood tonight for the first time this season.It's down on the terrace level.Makes it stupid easy,all things considered.A very lite hint of woodsmoke wafts through the house when opening the door... only thing missing is frying bacon to complete the experience.

If we use NO oil,which we sort of have to force the issue.... it takes 3 1/2 cords for a typical Winter.Shot well over 100* at the registers.When all the kids were little,it was nothing to see them leaving an exterior door open in Jan... doh.Never cared?

[trails4u]

Shopdog.....I also run a Yukon, the Husky Eagle I, in South Carolina of all places. Yeah...I fight creosote in the fall and spring, and it runs us out of the house at times, but it beats the heck outta paying the propane man! 2 cords will get us through a mild winter......worst winter was about 3.5. Mine runs hot as well....when I let it. ;)

[Shopdog]

Trails,I could be a commercial for them.Here's just one example;

Say,15 years ago.... nasty early Fall thunderstorm comes through.The house takes a direct hit.One of many problems it caused was it took out the board on the unit.Round 6 or 7 that evening I'm trying to figure out "why" the furnace is acting up.Just for a haha call the Yukon factory.The owner answers the phone.After explaining what happened,he walks me through a series of diagnostic checks...

He thinks about it for a few minutes and says the board is *****'d.Next day airs us a board....no charge!It was 100$ part,don't even want to know the shipping?

I've dealt with a LOT of companies over the last 40+ years in building biz.They have been a SOLID A+ class act group.We're a cpl years out on a new house,give you two guesses what heating system we're going with,haha.

[marlin39a]

I gave up on wood heat 5 yrs ago. Bad back, getting too old to cut and split. I went with a propane blue flame heater. Hose through the wall to a 100 lb. bottle. Perfect, instant heat.

[mold maker]

My parents had a 1950s coal/wood furnace and now its mine. In their later life, they installed an oil fired hot water system, and after about 30 years it became a money pit.
I replaced it with a Reni gas water heater rated for commercial use, and never looked back. I also use one for hot water.
The old coal/wood furnace still provides supplemental heat and server us well in case of power failure. The last trees I cut gave me 17 cords and still have 1/4th of it. My Dr. insists no more wood cutting.

[FISH4BUGS]

We burn wood as our sole source of heat. We do have a propane furnace for backup but it hasn't been on for years except for hot water.
Last year we burned 7 cords. This year I have 10 cords on the ground, stacked and covered. At my age (pushing 70) I can still work out doing the stacking, but i simply do not have the time to cut, split and stack all my wood. If I had the time I would buy tree length and a splitter and would do it all.
I buy from a local wood dealer, pay in full in the early spring and get delivery of 2 year old 18" split seasoned hardwood in the fall.
Our stove is a Jotul Norsk and heats a 1600 sf house very nicely. I work from home and keep it going all day.
I agree...there is nothing like a wood stove for heat. The cats all lie in front of it and snooze.
We just went through a 5 day power outage after the Halloween storm and it was really just a minor inconvenience. Generator and stove. Best pairing in the world.

[bob208]

we have a Harmon coal stove but it will burn wood too. just replaced the stove pipe this morning. it draws good now. the cats and dog like it. if not right around it the cats are on the steps where the heat goes upstairs.

[Lucky Joe]

Cut, chopped and burned wood my entire adult life. Now approaching 70 this April we decided to go Geothermal, costly perhaps but considering the money saved over the years, not bad. Monthly bill is surprisingly low and you can't beat the air conditioning that wood won't give you.

[owejia]

The smell of woodsmoke reminds me of deer hunting when young. Can remember walking back to the house and know a warm house and a warm hearty breakfast was waiting, Mom always had eggs, sauage ,ham or bacon with home made biscuits and gravy and fresh percolated coffee waiting. Had a wood furnace , made out of 55 gal. barrels in the basement to heat with. Good times. I heat with wood in a large wood furnace in my basement also. Will be 71 next week and still cut and split my own wood, use hydraulic splitter on my tractor, hope can continue doing this until I die. Love the smell of wood smoke. Can back up to the wood furnace and soak up the warmth no matter how cold I am, good for these old bones.

[725]

I use the deadfall and problem trees on the farm to heat much of the "winter season". Have a DS Circulator Wood/coal stove. Wood when it's "chilly" and coal when it's actually cold. I use about 4 tons of coal every two years. It's my real heat. Love it. Maybe $500 a year in heating costs. The man delivers it right into my bin and all I have to do is watch. Loosing electric or failure to get an oil / gas delivery is no longer an issue. The stove is a hand fire - no electricity used. Wonderful heat.

[Mal Paso]

In years past I'd be there right with you guys but fire got my house and logsplitter last year. The old house, built in the 60s, had windows that were even older and wood heat was necessary to do the heavy lifting. The new place is half the size, Tight, insulated, and all the glass is dual glaze. I thought I liked wood stoves but they take more space. Then there's the bugs and crud you bring into the house with the wood and the extra Dust from ash that escapes. I put in a propane furnace and to be totally decadent put the thermostat right next to the bed. A guy comes and fills the propane tank and sends me a bill. No Stacking Involved!!!!! How is it that I ever got so heavily invested in Wood Processing? LOL