Working on 44 shotshells using 445 Supermag. couple quesitons

[j4570]

I've always used speer shot capsules, but they leave something to be desired, one they were hard to get for a while, and too they can back out like others said, though this has not been a significant problem for me.

I've seen people here using various methods, so I got some 445 Supermag brass.

I used my 38-40 dies to size the top of the brass enough that they will chamber in my 44 Special (may as well make the shotshells fit both 44 Special and Mag, right?). These dies worked well, and there is not much gap.

Now that's done, I'm trying to figure out how people have gotten the card wad (and what they used, I'd just like to buy wads as they are cheap enough from circle fly) down the case. The case is now about 40-41 cal inside and a 375 gas check I have lying around will fit in nicely to roll crimp over.

So what are people doing to get the card wad in? Obvious is that I could size the case after loaded primer and powder and putting in card wad. then fill with shot and put in an overshot wad. Everyone using thin wads like overshot for between the powder and shot? I would think a 1/8" nitro card could be a pain to get in the case......

Anyone using a fiber wad between powder and shot? I would think you want to leave it out to maximize the amount of shot.

JW

[William Yanda]

How about some tapped out of a plastic milk jug or even laundry detergent jug?

[j4570]

William,

how do you tap yours out? I did try cutting some with hollow punches using some thin cardboard I had. The results were not so great. Of course, they are Harbor Freight hollow punches. I used to do this with my father all the time, but I'm thinking his punches were real old school arch punches (ie, American). I haven't gotten around to try and sharpening the hollow punches I have. Do you use the old case trick (ie, sharpen a used case) and use that to tap out wads?

[woody1]

William,

how do you tap yours out? I did try cutting some with hollow punches using some thin cardboard I had. The results were not so great. Of course, they are Harbor Freight hollow punches. I used to do this with my father all the time, but I'm thinking his punches were real old school arch punches (ie, American). I haven't gotten around to try and sharpening the hollow punches I have. Do you use the old case trick (ie, sharpen a used case) and use that to tap out wads?

I am not William but I do use the Harbor Freight punches to make wads for my .410's. They work fine although I do polish them up some using emory paper on a round dowel for the inside and spin them in a half inch drill to polish up the cutting surface on the outside. You really don't have to do this but inside of the punches is a little rough.. The key to getting good clean wads is to do the punching on the end grain of a piece of wood. I use a chunk of softwood 2x4 held in a vice but have just used a piece of firewood also. End grain allows the punch to pass cleanly thru milk jug material and most cardboard.

[j4570]

Ok,

here's what I did:

1) sharpened Harbor Freight punches. Work much better. this was probably 75% of the issue
2) found a Windshield Washer bottle in garage, and cut it up to use, it punched pretty good.
3), clamp 1x4 in vise and punched against end grain.

Now it's 99% better. Thanks everyone. I suspected the dull cutter. I never liked milk jugs as they are thin, but the washer bottle worked well. And it seems to spring back well after pushing down through the necked down brass.

Now I just need to grind the punches to make the right size wads.......so they will seat properly. I'll start with next size down and open up. Need some for 38 and 44 eventually......

Thanks William and Woody

JW