Very Old Saeco Melting Pot: Help and Advice

[Phlier]

180306180307180308

Heya Gents,

Long time lurker, first time poster.

My father bought the pictured Saeco bottom pour melting pot around 1960. The last time he used it was around 1974. I was 7 years old at the time, and we had a blast that day casting boolits together. I'm not sure why, but he never fired it up again. Three weeks ago, he gave me all of his casting stuff. The majority of it dates back into the '50's. The Saeco pot was his newest piece of casting equipment. I'm going to try and find out the age of it by the serial number.

All of his casting equipment still sits in their original boxes. I won't be using any of that stuff, but I would like to hear what you guys think about the melting pot pictured. Is it a good place to start, or should I just go ahead and buy a new bottom pour pot? This will be the first time I've cast boolits since 1974. I've read up quite a bit here, and have a copy of the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. Even after doing a lot of reading up on boolit casting, I still have so many questions.

I just bought a six cavity 124gr RN Lee mold today (this one, to be exact: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/476412/lee-6-cavity-bullet-mold-tl356-124-2r-9mm-luger-38-super-380-acp-356-diameter-124-grain-tumble-lube-2-ogive-radius ) along with handles, allox, tin, a cast iron pot for smelting, a Lee lead hardness testing kit, and a Lee .356 sizing die. Tomorrow will be a trip to Home Depot for respirators, then on to Harbor Freight for welder's gloves and face shields.

Ok, so moving on to the questions...

Referencing the mold I linked, I'll be using alox as the lube (hoping to find an "Alox for Dummies" thread around these parts) to start out, and hopefully venture into the more exotic coatings as time goes by. Unfortunately, the Lyman manual doesn't have load data for this mold. Can someone point me in the right direction for finding load data for this mold?

Is there anything missing from my basic setup that I'll need?

And of course, any information you guys can provide on my old Saeco pot would be much appreciated.

Edit: Darn it, it flipped the first picture sideways...

Another Edit: I would love some alloy suggestions for that mold, too. I'll be loading 9mm Luger.

[Randy Bohannon]

Get a separate thermometer and check it against the dial temp. Looks to be a very cool furnace back when really good American stuff was made.You don't say what alloy you will be using or for which cartridge you will be casting for.9mm ?.As for load data use the closet or same data starting with the starting loads. There are threads on this forum dealing with 9mm T/L bullets some people have had problems with them in 9mm. Someone will be along and give the dope on the bullet in question. I don't cast for the little bullets or 9mm.

[fecmech]

That is a fantastic pot! It has a 1000 watt element that will keep up with a fellow using two 4 cavity molds at the same time. It has a built in warming shelf for your mold right on the top, this also works great to preheat ingots to add while casting. Do NOT let anyone talk you out of it.

[WALLNUTT]

Harbor Freight welding gloves aren't very good.

[Phlier]

Get a separate thermometer and check it against the dial temp. Looks to be a very cool furnace back when really good American stuff was made.You don't say what alloy you will be using or for which cartridge you will be casting for.9mm ?.As for load data use the closet or same data starting with the starting loads. There are threads on this forum dealing with 9mm T/L bullets some people have had problems with them in 9mm. Someone will be along and give the dope on the bullet in question. I don't cast for the little bullets or 9mm.

I'll get the thermometer ordered right now. As for the alloy, since the Lyman manual didn't have any load information (Lyman suggests an alloy for each load listed), I'm looking for suggestions. Yes, this will be for 9mm Luger. Darn.. not good to hear that some guys are having problems with this boolit in 9mm. I was hoping I'd picked a winner.


That is a fantastic pot! It has a 1000 watt element that will keep up with a fellow using two 4 cavity molds at the same time. It has a built in warming shelf for your mold right on the top, this also works great to preheat ingots to add while casting. Do NOT let anyone talk you out of it.

That's really good to hear! My son and I go through around 2,000 9mm rounds per week, so it would be great if this old pot can keep up.


Harbor Freight welding gloves aren't very good.

Thanks for the heads up. Guess I'll get some at Home Despot.

[Randy Bohannon]

Roto Metals in No.CA is very good for known alloys and free shipping for orders over $100.00.They are vendor sponsors here I believe.Lyman #2 is all over the Lyman casting book, I would think it's a good start. I just starting using for some rifle bullets and it's working well.

[Strtspdlx]

Good pot, I've personally been looking for one for the past couple of years. As for alloy someone already made a very good suggestion of using #2 alloy. So I ran and grabbed my Lyman 4th edition cast handbook and flipped to page 248, of you have this book you can see that all but one boolit is in #2 alloy.

[Kraschenbirn]

IMO, the Saeco 24 was one of the best pots ever made. I used one for nearly 30 years until the heating element finally burned out to a point beyond my capability to repair. Then, about a month after I sent it down the road, someone on this forum posted info on where to purchase a compatible heating element with instructions for installation. Properly cared for, that pot will melt your lead for a long time.

Bill

[Bent Ramrod]

I have one of those SAECO bottom pour pots and it is excellent for pistol boolits. Keep the drain hole and plug clean of dross and it shouldn't drip much (if at all) between casts.

I would suggest you look around for something you could use as a mould guide, to rest the gang mould under the spout as it is filled and also to align it correctly without having to get your face down there to look. My SAECO has one, and it reduces the fatigue element in a long casting session. I don't know if a Lyman or RCBS would work, but you can see the concept from their pictures and cobble something together.

Kraschenbirn, I'd appreciate a link to the recommendation of the forum member who had info on SAECO-compatible heating elements and their installation. The bottom pour is going well, but I have two larger SAECOs (Models T31 and 32) that seem to have stopped heating.

[Eddie17]

I've been having better results on paper sizing bullets cast using that same mold sized to .357 instead of .356.

[Phlier]

Roto Metals in No.CA is very good for known alloys and free shipping for orders over $100.00.They are vendor sponsors here I believe.Lyman #2 is all over the Lyman casting book, I would think it's a good start. I just starting using for some rifle bullets and it's working well.

Until I'm able to get a good steady supply of range scrap and WW's, that sounds great to me. Thank you very much. I'll be ordering 100lbs from them to get me started.


Good pot, I've personally been looking for one for the past couple of years. As for alloy someone already made a very good suggestion of using #2 alloy. So I ran and grabbed my Lyman 4th edition cast handbook and flipped to page 248, of you have this book you can see that all but one boolit is in #2 alloy.

Sure enough. Lyman #2 it is!


IMO, the Saeco 24 was one of the best pots ever made. I used one for nearly 30 years until the heating element finally burned out to a point beyond my capability to repair. Then, about a month after I sent it down the road, someone on this forum posted info on where to purchase a compatible heating element with instructions for installation. Properly cared for, that pot will melt your lead for a long time.

Bill

Bill, thanks for that. Dad has always been one to buy the very best equipment he could get, even if he had to save up for a very long time to get it. Figures that he bought a good melting pot. Early on, he cast boolits out of necessity. I don't think he ever really enjoyed casting like he did reloading, and later on was able to afford to purchase boolits, rather than cast them himself. He did most of his casting with a ladle, and soon after he bought his Saeco, he started buying most of his boolits. Dad says he used the Saeco less than a dozen times. I just cleaned it up a bit, and after all the dust and dirt was gone, the thing looks like it just came new out of the box. I still need to clean out the inside, though.


I have one of those SAECO bottom pour pots and it is excellent for pistol boolits. Keep the drain hole and plug clean of dross and it shouldn't drip much (if at all) between casts.

I would suggest you look around for something you could use as a mould guide, to rest the gang mould under the spout as it is filled and also to align it correctly without having to get your face down there to look. My SAECO has one, and it reduces the fatigue element in a long casting session. I don't know if a Lyman or RCBS would work, but you can see the concept from their pictures and cobble something together.

Kraschenbirn, I'd appreciate a link to the recommendation of the forum member who had info on SAECO-compatible heating elements and their installation. The bottom pour is going well, but I have two larger SAECOs (Models T31 and 32) that seem to have stopped heating.

My Saeco looks to be rather small. I'd imagine it would be a good tight fit to start off with two 1 pound ingots it it. I'm hoping it'll keep up with two 6 cavity molds, but even if it won't, I'm just thrilled to have it. I'm going to give it a good bit of love today...taking it apart and cleaning it up as well as I can. I'll be sure to pay special attention to the drain hole and plug. Any caveats about cleaning those areas? I was thinking about using brass wool, but would really appreciate any other suggestions. It may very well be that Dad kept it clean enough that I won't have to do much, anyway.

I also would much appreciate a link to the Saeco compatible heating element post, too.


I've been having better results on paper sizing bullets cast using that same mold sized to .357 instead of .356.

What gun are you running them through? I'll be shooting 'em through a S&W M&P C.O.R.E. 9L as well as through my son's CZ 75 P-01. I still haven't slugged our barrels yet.

[skeettx]

Your SAECO will hold about 10 pounds of melted alloy

Before you fire up the pot, load it with some of your alloy and use a propane torch to melt some of the alloy into the bottom to prevent
element hot spot issues.
Mike

[Phlier]

Your SAECO will hold about 10 pounds of melted alloy

Before you fire up the pot, load it with some of your alloy and use a propane torch to melt some of the alloy into the bottom to prevent
element hot spot issues.
Mike

Great tip, thank you. I'll be sure to do that.

[Phlier]

180364

Gents, please forgive the noobile question, but what exactly is the purpose of the outlined attachment on the pot?

[Springfield]

You swing it around until the bolt head is above the lead spout arm. It controls the maximum upward throw for a consistent pour.

[Phlier]

You swing it around until the bolt head is above the lead spout arm. It controls the maximum upward throw for a consistent pour.

Excellent, thanks.

[jeepyj]

You'll learn quite quickly how important that stop is once you start casting. It is a great way to help control your flow. You'll also see that some boolit moulds will require it to be open a bit more than others. It's all in getting the feel and looking at the finished product. I modified one of my pots with a thumb screw and a spring under it so I can adjust with my gloves on. Curious what area of the country are you from?
jeepyj

[Phlier]

You'll learn quite quickly how important that stop is once you start casting. It is a great way to help control your flow. You'll also see that some boolit moulds will require it to be open a bit more than others. It's all in getting the feel and looking at the finished product. I modified one of my pots with a thumb screw and a spring under it so I can adjust with my gloves on. Curious what area of the country are you from?
jeepyj

Way out in the desert southwest. We just put our melting pots on the sidewalk in the summer to melt lead.

[Echo]

And forget the welders gloves. Go to Costco and get a pack of 3 pair leather gloves for ~$20. Provide all the insulation you need, unless you get really attached to a particular boolit and hang on to it, admiring your handiwork. You'll only do that once. Makes picking up the sprue to dump back in the pot easier than bulky welders gloves.
And most folks find that they have best results with the 9 sizing their boolits .357/.358 - as large as will reliably chamber in the weapon.
And the SAECO is a great pot - I have a couple, and they are better-made than the equivalent Lyman.

[45workhorse]

That just like my pot. Always leave some lead in the bottom, if not full. And I always turn the thermostat to zero/ off when I unplug it. Don't know if helps/hurts it, just something I do.
You should be able put it in your will when, you pass on to where you can cast in gold!!!!!

[Phlier]

And forget the welders gloves. Go to Costco and get a pack of 3 pair leather gloves for ~$20. Provide all the insulation you need, unless you get really attached to a particular boolit and hang on to it, admiring your handiwork. You'll only do that once. Makes picking up the sprue to dump back in the pot easier than bulky welders gloves.
And most folks find that they have best results with the 9 sizing their boolits .357/.358 - as large as will reliably chamber in the weapon.
And the SAECO is a great pot - I have a couple, and they are better-made than the equivalent Lyman.

Great suggestions, thank you. And yet another new guy question... If I'm casting at .356, will a Lee .357 or .358 sizer swage the bullet hard enough to increase the diameter of the bullet, or will I need to get a new mold that will cast at say .358?


That just like my pot. Always leave some lead in the bottom, if not full. And I always turn the thermostat to zero/ off when I unplug it. Don't know if helps/hurts it, just something I do.
You should be able put it in your will when, you pass on to where you can cast in gold!!!!!

Dad left it completely empty, so I'm going to clean the inside of it, then I'll leave alloy in it from then on. Thanks for the tip.

As for casting in gold in the next life, where I'm going, I'll just be happy if they have #2 alloy...

[jeepyj]

A sizer will not generally increase the boolit diameter. You'll to save more more money and pick up another mould for those 38s. That's the best part of this hobby is you can keep spending to save. HaHa

[Phlier]

A sizer will not generally increase the boolit diameter. You'll to save more more money and pick up another mould for those 38s. That's the best part of this hobby is you can keep spending to save. HaHa

Darn it, I kinda suspected that was the case. So yup, I'll be needing to buy another mold right off the bat. I haven't even received my .356 six cavity mold from Midway yet. Ah well, I'll probably just hang on to that one anyway.

I probably should've just come here and asked for some advice prior to purchasing that mold. Better late than never... Think I'll start a new thread asking for mold suggestions.

[45workhorse]

Great suggestions, thank you. And yet another new guy question... If I'm casting at .356, will a Lee .357 or .358 sizer swage the bullet hard enough to increase the diameter of the bullet, or will I need to get a new mold that will cast at say .358?



Dad left it completely empty, so I'm going to clean the inside of it, then I'll leave alloy in it from then on. Thanks for the tip.

As for casting in gold in the next life, where I'm going, I'll just be happy if they have #2 alloy...
Amen to that

[skeettx]

BUT each gun is different, cast some bullets, size them with what you have, load a few, see if they will chamber well, shoot a few
and see if they are accurate or go sideways.
THEN you will know
Mike

[Phlier]

Will do, Mike, thanks.

[Bent Ramrod]

You can always "Beagle" your mould to increase the diameter of your castings a little. There's a Sticky on the process somewhere around here.

[Phlier]

You can always "Beagle" your mould to increase the diameter of your castings a little. There's a Sticky on the process somewhere around here.

I'll look around for that, thanks!

[Eddie Southgate]

I would take that pot over any other that was ever on the market . I inherited from my grandfather the Saeco 24 that I learned to cast with and had it stole by a dope head along with most of my 310 stuff and Tru Line Jr press . It has taken me 25 or so years to replace most of what was stole from the shop but I just about have it all now. I just got the Saeco pot replaced two weeks ago and it felt like a lost child had come home. I got a Lee production pot , biggest Lyman and RCBS pots and I still prefer the Saeco.

[robertsm53]

I would like to get the info on repair parts /heating element as well. I have 2 of these and one is out of service due to the heating element burned up and the thermostat control burned out. Any info on parts and repairing would be greatly appreciated.