Sprue plate bolt

[Modad2010]

Hi, folks. This is my first post and have a question. Has anyone ever sheared off a sprue plate bolt on a set of rcbs molds. I just got a brand new set of rcbs 44-250-k molds, got them cleaned and prepped and started casting. About 20 minutes in things were going great and then I released a pair of boolits from the mold and went to close the sprue plate. The plate didn't close with the first tap of my mallet and when I tapped it again the sprue plate, top of the bolt, and the washer fell to the ground. I've never had this happen with any of my Lyman or my Lee molds. The plate had not been binding nor was it too loose. I would appreciate any input. Thanks.

[William Yanda]

You are fortunate thay are RCBS-contact them. My experience is limited, but I never heard of closing the sprue plate with a mallet before!

[MT Chambers]

I've not had that problem with good molds in my 50+ years of using them, when using Lee molds it tends to happen. I'd contact RCBS, they'll fix you up, it might have something to do with the set screw being too tight for too long.

[ReloaderFred]

Yep, a call to RCBS will get you a new bolt in no time at all.

Hope this helps.

Fred

PS: Welcome to the forum!

[blikseme300]

Modad2010, welcome to the forum.

Rant warning ON.

Please stop beating on your molds with a mallet. IMHO the most common reason for mold damage is the beating they receive. Properly preheated molds and good casting cadence prevent the need for pounding on the molds. I never use a mallet only a gloved had to cut the sprues and close the mold and sprue plate again.

Rant warning OFF

RCBS will take care of you, contact them.

[Modad2010]

Thanks for the replies, but just to clarify, I wasn't beating on them. I give the sprue cutter a light tap to cut the sprue. I then, usually swing the plate back around with the mallet ( hickory hammer handle - no hammer attached). This is how I was taught years ago by my dad and uncle and have never had an issue until now. RCBS does sell a mould mallet that is not unlike hickory handle that I use. I'm sorry if I sound like I'm taking offense, but I guess I am a little. I reload and cast bullets because I don't have a bunch of expendable income and if I want to shoot it's required. I'm not one that abuses my tools, because I can't afford to replace them. Thanks.

[country gent]

As stated contact RCBS they will send you a new bolt and washer. It may be as simple as the bolf was brittle or overly hard. Most of these are shoulder bolts and are hardened, Or it could have had a crack from manufacturering it. Im curious as to where it actually broke at? Where the thread ended or under the bolt head. On hardened parts at work we tried to leave radiouses instead of sharp corners or an u shaped undercut as this made the hardened parts mush stronger and less suseptable to cracking than the sharp corner. Im betting it was more a bad screw than something you did.

[Modad2010]

It broke just below the surface of the mold block. I have nothing to get ahold of to get the bolt out. I am leery of using an easy out for fear of voiding the warranty. I will probably end up sending it back to RCBS and waiting to get it repaired or a new one. That sucks because it means ordering bullets from somewhere else to use for deer season in 12 days.

[Mike W1]

Modad2010, welcome to the forum.

Rant warning ON.

Please stop beating on your molds with a mallet. IMHO the most common reason for mold damage is the beating they receive. Properly preheated molds and good casting cadence prevent the need for pounding on the molds. I never use a mallet only a gloved had to cut the sprues and close the mold and sprue plate again.

Rant warning OFF

RCBS will take care of you, contact them.

Just because you do it with gloved hand doesn't make it the only way to do it you know. Dennis Marshall recommended a plastic mallet years ago to me and there's no sign it's damaged anything yet including aluminum sprue plates. I "tap" the handle lightly enough to cut the sprue and use it as a extra finger so to speak to close the plate. Never have to set it down while casting.

[country gent]

Remove the set screw that locks it in place and any copper or lead insert that may be under it. A drop of oil in the set screw hole to help lubricate it may help. On a small drill bit grind a fine point. with this get a solid mark alongt the edge then angle counter clockwise and lightly tap it should spin out. A drill that just fits in the hole can sometimes be ground to a fine chisel end and tapped forming a shallow slot that may allow the stub to be turned out also. Other wise drill a small hole in it and easy out or glueing the drill shank into it should allow it to be removed. We used alot of left hand twist drill bits to remove broken bolts but you need a drill motor or drill press with reverse also. Where are you Located at Moa2010?

[Modad2010]

Mike, my process is the same as yours, only this time the plate hung up a bit and I gave it a light tap and off it came.

Country Gent, thanks for the suggestions. I'm in central Missouri and don't have a lot of access to machining tools or tooling.

Thanks guys!

[country gent]

If you were close Id do it for you. Ive fixed several moulds for others here. For most of what I suggested a simple bench grinder or even dremil tool to make the point or chiesel is all thats needed then a light hammer and steady hands to make it work LOL. USPS to an from will take longer than you have though.

[Modad2010]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I called Midway USA, where I got the mold, and explained to the guy at customer service what had happened. He told me that they would be glad to replace the mold for me. I got a return authorization # and made the one hour trip to their customer pick up office and had a new mold in hand. I don't have a problem with RCBS equipment, I have a rock chucker press, partner press, two scales and other small accessories, but I was a little too impatient to wait 2-3 weeks to get my mold back. I think Midway went above and beyond and will definitely have a repeat customer for a long time. Another thing, in the RCBS instructions for the mold it pictures and instructs to use a mold mallet to open the molds.

[country gent]

Steve Brooks recomends a small dead blow mallet with his custom moulds. Lyman manual recomends and shows a mallet or hammer handle as do alot of casting books. Im currently using a 5 oz dead blow mallet thats doing a real nice job for me. I was using a 10 oz plastic cap hammer as I couldnt find the small dead blows around here. Graingrs has them, hed is 1" in dia X3" long, handle is 8 1/2" long, I wrapped the handle / grip with wetted 72" leather boot thong to increase and cushion the grip a little. It does a nice job and is comfortable and a size that appropriate. I dont actually hit the sprue plate its more of a push thru type of swing, and I simply hook the sprue plate with the head to swing it closed. Its a bright oarnge so wherever I lay it down ( or the grandsons drop it) I can find it LOL. A friend that casts with me also had me order one with mine and He likes it alot also.

[blikseme300]

I apologize for my previous post as I realize I came on very strong.

I have seen some well-known CB reloaders & shooters on YouTube beating on their molds to get the CB's to drop free as if this is the proper way to do it, IMHO. I'm convinced that even the stoutest iron molds have a shortened life span due to this usage. I have and use a wide range of molds from different manufacturers and if I ever need to pound on them to release a casting I know that either my technique is wrong or there is a flaw with the mold that needs attention.

One of my gripes is that folks complain that aluminum molds are sub-standard as these can be easily damaged. To me it simply means that the user is rough with his/her equipment and complains when their rough handling causes damage. Sure, aluminum molds are cheaper but it does not mean they are inferior to iron molds.

Some folks can use a sledge hammer and gently move things while others will whack away and wonder, why the damage, as the other person had none when using a sledge doing the same thing.

[Modad2010]

Blikseme, back when I started helping my dad and uncle cast, if I'da beat on their molds ruthlessly they prob'ly woulda beat on me with the same mallet. I've seen some of the videos you're talking about and do agree with you that many of them get a bit excessive. I've got a Lyman 358429 that my dad and uncle started using in 1958 after Dad got his .357 Blackhawk (which is now mine) and I would never do anything to risk harming it - too much family history there. I do appreciate all of the replies, as all of them have given me useful information and possibilities. Thanks to all.

[Echo]

Just because you do it with gloved hand doesn't make it the only way to do it you know. Dennis Marshall recommended a plastic mallet years ago to me and there's no sign it's damaged anything yet including aluminum sprue plates. I "tap" the handle lightly enough to cut the sprue and use it as a extra finger so to speak to close the plate. Never have to set it down while casting.
Plus ONE! Plastic mallet used here, opening & closing.

[mold maker]

Although there is a broken hammer handle on my bench, it is very seldom needed or used. A heavy gloved hand is all I use.
As stated above the need for a mallet is an indication of a problem that needs to be addressed otherwise.
The use of a mallet or hammer is a throw-back to times and techniques of the past. Then there were no aluminum molds and the tapping on handle bolts of the iron molds caused no problems.
Many of us older casters have lifelong habits or were taught by habits that die hard, and if caution is used, causes no harm.

[pete501]

You can't beat your children so go ahead and beat your mold. I myself have a well used piece of hammer handle I use to tap the spur plate open and swing it closed. I have tried the welding glove but find it too cumbersome and fatigues my hands on long casting sessions.

[Grmps]

Larry at RCBS recommended a rawhide mallet, I got a 4 ounce and 8 ounce one at Amazon. The 4 ounce (Garland 11001 Rawhide Mallet, Size-1) is all I ever use. A mallet makes it easier for me to tap the bolt on the handle (when needed).

[paul h]

From the op's description, I'd wager with 99% certainty the bolt was defective. Don't have an RCBS mold with me but looking at pictures online I think they use a 1/4" bolt for the sprue plate pivot. Depending on the alloy of steel used in the bolt, a nominal 1/4" bolt is going to require over 2000#'s of force to shear it, even a #10 screw requires over 1000# of shear to snap it. So unless you've been sculpting marble with a hand chisel for decades or have the strength of 10 men, I don't think a heavy handed tap did your sprue plate pivot bolt in.

Not to pile on, but I've never needed a mallot to operate a mold. I do have a 1" dia softwood dowel that I do occasionally tap a mold to release a bullet.

The only damage I've seen to sprue hardware has been the lee six cavity pivoting sprue cutter that will break when you try and cut a hardened sprue, and it's not the bolt the fails.

[Soundguy]

Just because you do it with gloved hand doesn't make it the only way to do it you know. Dennis Marshall recommended a plastic mallet years ago to me and there's no sign it's damaged anything yet including aluminum sprue plates. I "tap" the handle lightly enough to cut the sprue and use it as a extra finger so to speak to close the plate. Never have to set it down while casting.

Agreed, I use an old actual rcbs mold mallet. Its just an extension of my hand. I dint wat to touch 700' boolits or molds.

I wear thin 'mechanix' gloves so I can retain some manual dexterity. They are great for incidental contact, feel good, and dont hinder movement like big thick leathers.

If there was never a need for a mold mallet, rcbs wouldn't have made them.

Just using it as a pushing tool to cut the sprue, and if needed a tap on the handle to get lead to drop is all that's needed.

[Soundguy]

For anyone that hasn't seen an rcbs mold mallet its just a mostly cylindrical hardwood dowel turned a bit to hold on to. Its not a 'hammer'

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/images/product_images/044-80007/044-80007.jpg

[Alstep]

Larry at RCBS recommended a rawhide mallet, I got a 4 ounce and 8 ounce one at Amazon. The 4 ounce (Garland 11001 Rawhide Mallet, Size-1) is all I ever use. A mallet makes it easier for me to tap the bolt on the handle (when needed).









Seconds on the rawhide mallet. Have several around the shop for anything that needs gentle persuasion.

[georgerkahn]

Just fyi, Hensley & Gibbs both sold LEAD HAMMERS to open sprue plates on their moulds; and, a mould to make these. A fellow on eBay apparently has this mould, and on occasion lists/offers them. From an earlier source, I have an H&G hammer, and that's pretty much what I use.
geo

[country gent]

Several have recomended the mallets, dead blows, lead hammers and such to open sprue plates. I perfer the light dead blow plastic mallets second is a small plastic cap mallet. I am considering making a lead hammer mould for such uses, something in the 6-8 ounce range. Cast from 20-1 lead tin it should hold up well and not damage moulds with proper use. But I have the plastic cap hammer here ( the heads are replaceable), and 2 5 ounce dead blows so when they all wear out I may get around to it. Steve Brooks site on casting is the only one to recomend tapping the mould hamdle to insure the blocks are seated when closed also. Theres alot of "techniques" out there and some work well some are questionable. One thing is the "Tap" is a variable as most people have a diffrent thought as to what a tap is. One persons tap is a solid blow to another. Thats why I descibe the swing I use as a "push" on the sprue plate. I dont really hit it but give it a straight on running push thru the sprue to open it. Light taps on the handle bolt to open the mould are more to create a vibration to loosen the casting from the blocks.