Mold filling technique?

[LouNC]

I'm a newbie just getting started on borrowed Lee equipment. My question is how should I go about filling the mold from the bottom-drop spout of the Lee Pro melter?

I've tried holding the Lee mold right up against the spout, which eliminates puddling on top of the sprue plate, but makes it harder to cut the sprues, as they cool quickly. I have to give them a pretty good knock. The good part is that the sprues (if you can call them that) are so tiny as to be insignificant. So I have less scraps to gather up and re-melt at the end of a session.

I've also tried keeping an air gap between the spout and the mold, which inevitably results in a small puddle of lead on top of the sprue plate. However, since this lead puddle slows the cooling of the sprue, it cuts much easier since it holds the heat longer and stays softer. A much lighter knock on the sprue plate swings it open.

So, which is the "preferred" fill method amongst the experienced casters out there?

Thanks,
Lou

[James C. Snodgrass]

I like a nice big sprue to allow the boolit to drink from as it cools. With force feed I have not had a lot of luck it doesn't seem to be as consistent on wght. Just my opinion . Glad to see new folks getting started at this obsession. James

[runfiverun]

which on was making better boolits for you?
fill-out on edges? consistent weights? fewer holes in the base? etc...

[AZ-Stew]

I prefer a space between the spout and the mould. A big sprue puddle is a good thing. It gives the boolit cooling in the mould a place to draw alloy from as the boolit cools and shrinks. This prevents boolit base voids.

If you're not getting good fillout with this method, try increasing flow rate or casting a bit faster to get the mould up to a higher temperature.

If you try the pressure casting method, with the pot spout in the sprue plate countersink, you may have to run the pot hotter to avoid having the spout freeze up. When you put the mould against the spout, it is colder than the pot. Since the spout doesn't have much mass, the mould will quickly suck the heat out of it and the alloy in the spout will freeze. If you become successful at this method, be sure to hold the casting valve open on the pot for a few seconds after the mould fills to give the cooling boolit a supply of alloy to suck down into the boolit base during the cooling/shrinking process. Also, you'll find that you'll get "whiskers" of alloy along the mould seams on the boolits as the alloy is forced into the mould vent lines. These will brush right off after the boolits cool, but they're an annoyance.

Regards,

Stew

[SpaceGlocker]

a big sprue puddle is your friend!
hold both the pour ladle and the mold on its side and move them vertical together....

[STP22]

LouNC,

Flow rate with the Lee 10lb pot is a technique you will have to acquire with practice. If you notice the flow rate seems a bit slow, even before your down at the last few pounds of alloy, use a bent piece of wire to free up the nozzle so it flows well. Many times the nozzle will start to clog up with alloy contaminants that fluxing and skimming may have missed. Trial and error...most of us have had the same experience with the Lee 10lb pot. Plus, a good sprue puddle is a good thing.

[DLCTEX]

I have tried all manner of techniques for filling a mold and have settled on bottom pour with a gap between mold and spout of 1/4 to 1/2 inch and as fast as I can fill it. I leave a good puddle for shrinkage and the sprue drops off the plate easier if it has some weight to it. I usually cast hot and fast until the frosting gets to be excessive, then lower pot temp or slow the casting rate. DALE

[billyb]

one more vote for a little space between the spout and the mold . tried the pressure method never was successful with it. Bill

[Goatlips]

Agree with Dale, go fast and leave a big puddle. Here's a photo:

http://goatlipstips.cas-town.com/casting2.html

Goatlips

[prs]

I get the most harmonious results using the gap technique and big ole puddles. I cast hot and fast and prefer frosted boolits. Most of my molds are multi cavities and are NOT designed to be rapped open -- just as the pard above said, big spru puddles are our friends and also HEAT is our friend.

prs

[Cherokee]

Space and big spru...works for me for 30+ years