HELP please

[ka30270]

I'm almost ready to pull my hair out. I have been casting for a few years now for my handguns with no issues. I have cast the Lee 309-230-5R for my 300 blk without issue. However I have recently picked up a 2 cavity NOE 311-247 RG which is a hollow point for my blackout. I can not get good boolets. They come out wrinkled no matter what I try. I have cleaned the mould with break cleaner and acetone on a few occasions. I have tried smoking the mould and I have tried Kroil but nothing seems to help. I am running a softer aloy but I have tried adding tin until I feel like I have to much. I have run my mold hot and I have varied my melt temp 150 degrees. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
They all come out like this....
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/63a0c55b8511490b047f3f44d851ee16.jpg

[Traffer]

With those long bullets I would think that the mold temp would be critical. Do you use a hotplate or something to keep the mold up to temp? Otherwise it stumps me.

[4719dave]

start over ...wash that mold in hot soapy water. pre heat the mold and maybe run your lead hotter ..

[Pee Wee]

looks like the mold and or temp is still to cool, try dipping the bottom of the mold in the lead for about ten seconds, even if they are frosted for the first few it will cool and should be ok. temp should be at or around 750. Hope this helps.

[ka30270]

I let my mould rest on the lead until melted and I cast several until the boolets quit sticking on the pins. Then I start keeping the boolets. I have tried running it hot having to wait on the sprue to cool and I have tried running it a little slower.

[rondog]

I made a thread awhile back about my hotplate mold oven, might look that up. Works quite well.

[Smoke4320]

Need to get the mold hotter.
Mine will not throw good bullets till I see frosty bullets
Slightly Frosty bullets will shoot fine

[Digital Dan]

Not enough temp. A rough guideline:

Pure Lead: 800* F
30:1 alloy: 775*

[Harter66]

Did you ;
Wash with Dawn regular dish soap ,
Rinse with very hot water ,
Heat cycle to casting temperature 3 times ,
Heat the mould AND pins to approximately 300 degrees and let cool to room temperature 3 times ?

Is the mould up to about 300 degrees when you start to pour ?
I get some just like that when I get slow running a 5C NOE . I've read that the pins have to be kept hot as they tend to draw heat , causing cooling .

[ka30270]

Thanks all, I'm gonna start over and give it a good cleaning. So I should get my melt around 750 then run my mould HOT. I really want this mould to work because the Lee 230 leaves a lot to be desired and the J word bullets that will expand at subsonic velocities are rediculously expensive.

[jcren]

Hotter mold. Wrinkles are due to lead freezing as it hits a too cool mold. Remember that noe is much more massive of a heat-sink than the Lee (i have that one too) plus, the hp pins will not absorb heat as well as the aluminum.

[scottfire1957]

Load 'em, shoot 'em. Do the other stuff next batch.

[Beagle333]

Hot plate needed. Get the mold hot, then cast fast. Don't cull or sort, just cast. When you see filled out boolits or frosty boolits.... you can slow down and find your pace, but start out hot and fast until you learn how hot that particular mold needs to run. It'll happen, don't despair.
If you get that mold good and warmed up on a hot plate (not the coil kind, unless you put a piece of tin or an old circular saw blade on it to even out the heat), and start out with the melt at least 725, she'll start working. You can bring the temp of everything back down once you get her running.

[runfiverun]

noe's need the heat cycles they recommend in the directions.
get 4 or so cycles on the mold and I bet things settle down.
one more trick, aim the hot alloy straight in the sprue hole and hit it quick leaving a generous sprue.

[OS OK]

Hot plate the mold...put a skill saw blade over the element...my 1,500 watt hot plate's dial is set at 1/2 heat, the blade is at 425*...big mold needs heat.
Run 750-800* pot...
Pressure pour...open the valve screw for a good volume pour....hold the sprue hole square to the spigot and let her rip...

Those wrinkles are from the lead cooling before the cavity is full of molten lead.

Give the sprue time to cool sufficiently or you will smear the boolit bases when cutting the sprue. If you have some smears you at least know you are running hot enough but you'll have full round and square bases.

Once you start getting all the boolits coming out smooth you will have the feel for that particular mold...worries over!

[ka30270]

Thanks for all the informative help!