View Full Version : Year of manuf for 30-30 Western Auto by Marlin

09-09-2016, 04:16 PM
Hello all - I've had an old Western Auto Supply Revelation 30-30 for many years. Yep, it's the 336 made by Marlin. I can not find a serial number anywhere, barrel or tang. Does anyone have any idea what year? I've found sources that show year of manuf based on serial number, but this rifle does not seem to have a serial number anywhere. I've looked on barrel back next to action on both sides, under forearm, on tang, etc


Here is another view showing what looks like a pin in barrel right at action, on right side.


Next question, would a standard Marlin 336 barrel that's marked "Glenfield" stand a good chance of replacing this barrel? I loaned gun to a cousin a few yr back, later when I checked there is a bulge in barrel about 6" from muzzle. Still shoots "ok", but not near so good as before.

Thanks to all for any guidance and suggestions.

Ken H>

09-09-2016, 05:06 PM
Look under the lever for a SN.

09-09-2016, 07:21 PM
Thanks - I almost typed "not there, I looked", because I just "knew" I'd looked on both top and bottom tangs. Good thing I checked, there is the serial number AA46XXX - Looks like the "AA" indicates 1965 as year of manuf. Hey, that rifle was almost new when I traded some motorcycle parts for it!

Now, anybody care to comment on my second question about barrel?


Ken H>

09-09-2016, 08:49 PM
Any Marlin barrel will match up just fine. If you really want to see what you can do to it, check out Ranger Point Precision. They work on Marlins and do one heck of a job.

09-09-2016, 09:41 PM
Should be 1965

Here is a link -


Go down on the page and you enter the prefix letters in the correct spot - it will do a search and show the year

09-09-2016, 10:00 PM
That's bedbugbilly - that is one of the links I found that gave me the 1965 manuf date.

Thanks for the info on barrel fit - any Marlin barrel fitting is what I was hoping for. I'll be on the lookout for a used barrel and plan to replace the bulged barrel before too long.

Anyone care to guess what that pin is for? From looking at barrel, it looks like a pin mounted flush in barrel, but no idea what it could be for.

Ken H>

09-09-2016, 10:56 PM
If it still shoots fine, I'd leave it alone. That rifle has a lot of character, should still be a decent boolit slinger.

09-10-2016, 09:16 AM
#izzyjoe: You mean even with the bulge in the barrel 6" from muzzle? It does shoot "ok", but not like it used to shoot. Perhaps only 3 MOA these days at best. I can remember years ago it would do 1 MOA or less with cast bullets. Of course, I did do a LOTS of shooting back then. I expected that bulge to be a complete killer for accuracy.

Ken H>

09-10-2016, 09:40 AM
Depending on how bad the bulge is, you might be able to have it rebored to something 35 or 375 caliber. JES would be the man I'd talk to.

09-10-2016, 10:35 AM
Making it to the .35 Remington sure would be nice, but I'd expect that to be a pretty expensive option. I've found a good looking barrel for less than $100 which should put rifle back in decent condition. "IF" there is a way to rebore to a different caliber for not much more, I'd sure like that option.

Ken H>

09-10-2016, 11:43 AM

There isn't - rebore jobs go for around $250, +/-.

www.35caliber.com (http://www.35caliber.com)


09-10-2016, 02:57 PM
Hmmmm, rebore for $250 or so....... maybe 38-55? Would anything on the 336 need changing to handle that round other than screw in a 38-55 barrel? Hmmmm - I sure like those old cartridges.... it'd look good along side my Rolling Block 45-70 :)

OTOH, maybe just fine a new barrel in 38-55 to thread and fit to the 336 action? I'll have to do some looking around for this - my old barrel is in really cruddy condition and would take a good bit of work to work all the pits out.

Ken H>

09-11-2016, 08:47 AM
You could always call JES up and see if he has an extra barrel there already done in 38-55. 35 Rem would not be an option unless you got a different bolt. Your option would be 38-55, 35/30-30, 356 win, 307 win, and 30-30 with the bolt face that you have. With a barrel blank you could also do something like 7-30 Waters

09-11-2016, 10:47 AM
Thank you for the info - I was sorta digging thru difference brass dimensions to see what would work, but you've saved me lots of looking. I don't wish to do any mod's to the rifle, other than switch barrels. While the .356 Win would perhaps be the "best" round ballistically wise, I do like the idea of 38-55 best. Perhaps the smartest thing would be just to replace with a 30-30 barrel...... but I sure do like the idea of 38-55 {g}.

09-11-2016, 02:10 PM
Well, I just purchased a 30-30 barrel from ebay. Right after your #4 post above saying any 336 barrel will work, I placed a $70.75 bid (shipped) on a Genfield barrel on ebay. Here's what I got: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262609567579?

I just hope it's as good as it looks - I sure was intrigued with the idea of a 38-55 barrel. Might have to keep my eyes open for one.

Thank you again for all your help.

Ken H>

09-11-2016, 09:52 PM
You'll probably never find a 38-55 barrel. JES is the best option. And I hear he does awesome work especially with that 38-55 chamber.

09-11-2016, 10:40 PM
Marlins differ from other rifles, cause the barrel has a ramp at the end of the chamber to guide the shells. And it also has an extractor relief cut, all this has to be timed right, and the headspace is set of the rim, so chances are just changing the barrel won't work, it may be close, but then the headspace may be off. If you want it to shoot right, just send it off for a rebore.

09-12-2016, 08:50 AM
Thanks for the headspacing tidbit of info - I'll be sure to double check headspace as I screw in replacement barrel. I see what you're saying, the Marlin is like a Rolling Block - the barrel has to be fitted to action with correct headspace BEFORE the extractor groove is cut. I "should" be able to get correct headspace either by trimming a bit, or using a shim. We'll see how it works.

I expect that it will be impossible to find a "ready to go" 38-55 barrel. I expect I'll have to find a barrel blank to fit to action requiring chambering, extractor relief, etc to be cut.

Ken H>