I'm going to start Cast .308. .308 caster roll call

[MGnoob]

Greetings, I havent been posting much because i haven't been trolling for info like i used to.As some of you know, i cast and copper plate .223 for blasting use.. in my beltfed and other m16 stuff.

Im now moving onto .308 for an inbound hk .308 beltfed.Its actually a transferable sear in a HK91(.308)at the moment.ill be getting an MP5 host for it but i already have acceptable cast plated 9mm. The new beltfed will run current .223 cast plated.But i am completely new to .308.I have over a year to gets some acceptable ammo produced.

Like last time ill buy and try several hand molds then after load development and testing buy a 4 mold autocast set.I am really looking forward to .308. I think they will be easier to cast, plate,handle and achieve more consistant accuracy by batch.

Im sure ill be revisiting this thread mutiple times throughout the year.

One of my first questions would be is anyone using one weight/ profile for both .308 and 7.62X39? The beltfed actually runs .223,.308, and 7.62X39. So it would be a bonus if i could use one for both. But i am sure just like in most applications using one tool for two different jobs is like the old saying about talking while you eat.(ya you can but you won't do either very well)

My second questions is what molds,alloys,powder,volocity,oal, and what are you sizing too and the results you are achieving?Edit..what firearm and barrel length would help aswell.

And finally any advice/tips related to .308 or things you've discovered that may come as a suprise to me considering i am only a novice reloader with only rifle experience in .223.

I have started pouring through the vast amount of knowledge here so links to other good reads are also appreciated, i will continue to scour myself but its easy to miss really good info.. i stuggle with the search feature but i've been searching reading for about a week as time permits.

Thanks in advance for the help.
Edit.. you dont have to dig out your records or anything like that. This is an informal discussion, in the end ill be doing my own thing. I didnt have any of this information the first time around doing .223 or atleast not information that releated to what my load ended up being.I just feel like this will be so much easier after the 223 and .308 would have been alot easier for my first caliber.

[Kraschenbirn]

Suggest you start with BruceB's sticky on the 7.62x51 in the 'Military Rifles' section. After that, there have been (literally!) dozens of discussions on loads/casting for the .308/7.62x51 on this forum so you might try the 'search' function found on the toolbar at the top of the page.

Bill

[popper]

.308, and 7.62X39 chambers/throat are different. Some OP was running PC through a belt-fed, worked fine but would get jams on some 'link' in the feeder, due to PC scaping. Seems like 150 to 170 is prevalent in 308, much lighter in x39. 308W was easy to get to work in my AR10.

[runfiverun]

the ED Harris design was designed around the x39 type throat.
then LEE screwed it up.
there have been some others that have cut it correctly since then walt melander and HM-2 were both cut from the correct drawings.
but that boolit will shoot quite well in the 308 also.
good luck finding someone to let go of one of those molds.
the 300xcb mold from NOE would work well in a belt fed rifle if you cast it hard enough, it might could work in the x39.
if the weight is a bit much it could be shortened by a custom mold maker and have the drive bands and lube grooves re-cut to a single groove [upgrade X-500 in my book]

[KYCaster]

I've had good results with the Lee C312-155-2R in both 7.62X39 and 308 Win.

I think this is the screwed up Harris design that R5R mentioned, but it shoots sub MOA in both cartridges for me at 2100 fps. Both are bolt guns and both have 1:12 twist.

My 6 cav. mold casts small at .308....had to Beagle it to get .311 dia.

Good luck with your project.
Jerry

[daschnoz]

I've had good results with the Lee C312-155-2R in both 7.62X39 and 308 Win.

I think this is the screwed up Harris design that R5R mentioned, but it shoots sub MOA in both cartridges for me at 2100 fps. Both are bolt guns and both have 1:12 twist.

My 6 cav. mold casts small at .308....had to Beagle it to get .311 dia.

Good luck with your project.
Jerry

+1 for this mold. I've had good results with this boolit in my 308 bolt gun. Can't offer any input using it in a gas gun. 14gr (IIRC) of 2400 in an AK pattern runs well and keeps the brass in my current time zone.

[MGnoob]

Well thanks for the info guys, im still reading and researching but just figured you guys would point out some things i didnt know and steer me in the right direction.

One thing i stumbled on is .308 in 7.62 chamber vs almost the opposite .223 in 5.56 chamber.
Im also curious about brass life when firing from an HK with fluted chamber... research can be tricky with the Internet, alot of opinions stated as fact then repeated and screwed up...there is just nothing like hands on experience and first hand knowledge.


Ill be checking in every few days, good luck guys

[MGnoob]

C312-155-2R looks to a a good basic design similar in profile to my 60g .223 mold. Probibly not a bad place to start.

[runfiverun]

and a fluted chamber...
jeezus you ain't making this easy on yourself.
expect short brass life.

[MGnoob]

I know.....if i told you how many reloads i get with my .223 brass out of my shrike belt fed you'd never believeme.

Everyones told me ill get 3 reloads max with the fluted barrel..im hoping for more than 5 reloads...anneal anneal anneal i guess.

[Tackleberry41]

Only 308 I have is a G3, I use the 200gr Lyman mold, standard data out of the Lyman manual, 4198 load. Runs thru em like it was made to. Actually better as I can recover the brass now.

Any loading I did was with a lubed bullet, but now can PC and run them harder, so might look into a lighter mold to get more velocity.

[wonderwolf]

The problem with the HK is not going to be the flutes believe it or not, its gonna be the dents in the shoulder and upper body area of the brass you may be putting in it, not sure if you are going with the HK 21 23 type upper or not and if those are like the HK91 /g3 on the ejection side. I'm not super familiar with the design or how those ejection system work.

My HK 91 clone brass is reloadable so long as I can find it. I used to use one of the port buffers in the past but I've found the gun does not cycle reliably with it in place, I've actually had brass bounce right back into the gun and the it really REALLY gets chewed up by the action.


As far as bullets go.... being an HK I know it'll eat dang near anything you throw in it and ask for more. They are better than the AK's in a lot of ways I think. 150gr semi spire point is as much advice as I think I can give on the subject.

What kind of links do you use with that belt fed?

[TXGunNut]

Only brass catcher I've had success with when firing an H&K is a 30 gallon trash can on it's side on the bench beside me. A towel at the open end keeps the brass inside. Fluted chambers make the brass look terrible but they may last longer than you think. Mine was a 94 and I didn't lose any brass to the chamber, just the ejector, lol. I know the 7.62 is quite a bit different but hopefully it's not as bad as it looks.