RCBS Pro-Melt, and PID ?

[MnSpring]

Looking for a bottom pour, which will go down to 475 F (+/-)

On the Lyman Mag-25. Sent them a e-mail, asked questions, NO Response !
However, the day after, I received about 30 MORE, Spam e-mails, of a type I never received before.
I am sure, it is Just, a Coincidence !

RCBS, several days later, sent the same questions.
2 days later received this:
“ … no there is no way to modify the thermostat in our unit to go lower than 650 because the unit is for lead, or Linotype. However we purchase the thermostat from a company in Fulda Germany and they may have a thermostat you could purchase to give the unit a wider range of temp. Their name is Jumo, and their web address is www.jumo.net (http://www.jumo.net) and local US phone number is (315) 437-5866. Hope this helps and thanks for contacting RCBS!”

Then sent back, asking about use of a PID unit, for a lower temp.
and in, ONE, day got back this:
“ … it may work for you and be just what you need, but we can’t recommend doing it, as it technically voids your warranty if something does go wrong. Sorry we don’t have a better solution or recommendation for you. …”

Still waiting for, Lyman’s response. (and NOT, holding my breath)
Apparently, one company, understands,
’They do NOT, pay me, I Pay Them’. And another one does not.
(Something YOU, have to Constantly, Remind, elected officials of.)

So, does anybody have experience, on using a PID, with the RCBS, ‘Pro-Melt’ ?
(Or the Lyman, Mag-25)

As I understand it, will turn on/off, the device it is plugged into,
as to the temp you set, by information coming from the probe/Thermocouple, inserted in the, (in this case the melt).

Not worried about any LED display, on the base unit, turning, off/on,
A PID, will be displaying that info.
As verified with thermometers, and as ALL, thermometers, are a little different.
It is not so much the temp, as the variation of the temp.
(Next time you go to a mart-mart, store, look at the ‘metal expanding’, types, and tell me how many read the same?)

My wondering is the, off/on, of the heating elements.
If it is, ‘rapid’, (or more, rapid, than originally designed for), will that shorten the life of the heating element?
And the contact points, cycling the, 'on/off' ?

Have a ‘plug & play’, one coming from a vendor on this site.
Will be testing it on a, ‘Christmas Tree Maker’.

I Have lots of, ’Should Work’, and, ‘ Great Idea’s’)
(From things I have done, then found out, it, doesn’t work)
Looking for, answers, that are from people with, experience in that particular matter.

Thanks for your time.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The PID I built for the Lee 4-20 lead furnace can be set for any temperature.

"is, ‘rapid’, (or more, rapid, than originally designed for), will that shorten the life of the heating element?"
While I don't think so, I did have that same thought and I bought a spare element to have on hand just in case, it was real cheap from Lee. As to the contacts, I set the Lee dial to MAX, it never turns on/off the PID tells the SSR to turn on/off.

Regarding RCBS's response, anytime you modify a electrical product, you can expect the factory to tell you, that you are voiding the warranty, they can't be held liable for modifications by others that may or maynot be qualified.

But this armchair internet cowboy will tell you, that Adding a PID to any lead pot is the cat's meow, it'll solve all your problems, as well as allowing the temperature to be set as low as you want.

I'd think the Lyman 25 could be set that low....but who knows ?

[Beagle333]

I suggest doing some reading on how PIDs work to better understand them. They don't have contacts and don't click "on and off" like a relay, so your element doesn't get red hot and then cool back down in between cycling. It is a pulsing of the power and it keeps the element just a little hotter than the setting for the pot, so the element actually works less hard than if it were operated by the original thermostat on the pot itself. You'll like a PID. There are many of us using them with Pro Melts.

[MnSpring]

... They don't have contacts and don't click "on and off" like a relay, so your element doesn't get red hot and then cool back down in between cycling. It is a pulsing of the power and it keeps the element just a little hotter than the setting for the pot, so the element actually works less hard than if it were operated by the original thermostat on the pot itself. You'll like a PID. There are many of us using them with Pro Melts.

Thank you !!!

I am used to a, 'controller', of a temperature, to be a, 'on/off'.

This is valuable information !

[25ring]

Although I've not run my ProMelt that low with my PID it has made a huge improvement in holding a stable temp.If you watch the lighted switch on the ProMelt it will flicker on and off occasionally as the PID controlls the temps,usually within a couple of degrees.--Mike

[Walter Laich]

I run a PID on my Pro-Melt; works like a charm

Only thing you have to remember is to turn pot's temp control all the way up (or at least above the temp you what)

PID handles the rest. If I don't 'mess' with mine during the casting session--adding more lead as I cast--it will hold within 3º of temp set.

Liked PIDs so much I put one on my PC (powder coating) oven and also have a modified set-up on my Lyman 450 lube/sizer

bottom line: it allows me to cast more uniform bullets and adds to the enjoyment factor

YMMV

[Smoke4320]

Walter you are oh so correct .. a PID really takes all the guess work out of "what is my lead temp" you will make more consistent bullets
which will translate to more accurate bullets

It also makes the beginners casting learning curve MUCH easier

[Beagle333]

What Walter said! If you don't have the pot thermostat set at least as high as your desired temp, the PID will be limited by the thermostat on the pot and frustration will be very high. I know this. :oops:
I just set the dial on my pot at 800 now and let the PID keep it at my much lower casting temp.

[casac47]

Have had zero problems with my RCBS unit behind a PID

[dikman]

Been running a PID on my Pro-Melt for a couple of years now, with no problems. I don't see how using one can void the warranty as you are not modifying the Pro-Melt in any way.

[cheese1566]

Mine is set up on a Jumo PID that member here sold as a fundraiser years ago.
I first built the PID for my Lee 20, but switched it over to my RCBS when it came along. Never gave used the factory thermostat except turned all the way up.

[hermans]

Been running a PID on my Pro-Melt for a couple of years now, with no problems. I don't see how using one can void the warranty as you are not modifying the Pro-Melt in any way.
Same here, the PID makes the Pro-Melt so much more accurate, and I have been using mine for a couple of years also, a lot of casting later and the unit is still functioning flawlessly.

[sundog]

What's a good brand/model?

[Mike W1]

What's a good brand/model?

I've had/have 3 of them. My favorite is the Auber SYL-2352. HAD a Mypin and didn't personally think it did as good a job as my Rex C100. Sent the Mypin back and bought another Rex.

That said, they'll all do fine. Rex is least expensive but only reads in Celsius. Mypin manuals are next to useless which is another of their downfalls IMHO. You have to be careful when buying a Rex as some of them are Relay Outputs and you need a SSR output for this application. There's a few others on the market but these 3 brands seem to be the most used and easier to get a little help on if you need it.

[DerekP Houston]

i run a PID on my RCBS and my toaster oven. No issues with cycling low heats on the oven. It maintains a constant 400f with just a bit of fluctation due to the cheap oven I bought. I didn't buy it for use on the promelt, but since i have it and the thermocouple I use it anyways. Nothing like digital control on the temp gauge. I found some of my molds like the lead up to 750f while most sit right at 700. A *lot* more accurate than the dial a temp my old lee 4-20 had.

[Walter Laich]

That said, they'll all do fine. Rex is least expensive but only reads in Celsius.

I have one that reads in Celsius. All I did was find the temp I want in F and convert to C so when I see the C reading I know I'm on the money. The one in my powder coating needs to be at 400F which is 207C. It keeps the temp at 207C and everything is fine