New to me Lyman #45 Lube Sizer issue

[44Vaquero]

Having just picked up a #45 looking to be in good to better condition. I have a question? Is the lube pressure nut supposed to have a skirt or busing of some sort? Mine does not? Although the 2 small bosses/pins on the sides lead me to believe it should have?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Yes, see the 8th and 9th photo on the 2nd post.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?166565-Lyman-45-buying-guide-and-cleanup-instructions&p=1862779&viewfull=1#post1862779

Many folks upgrade to the 450/4500 style pressure nut with the orings. It has the same threads. But I actually prefer the original with brass sleeve...no oring to get pinched and need replacing. But,it will leak a ribbon of lube...only a little bit, if you can keep the pressure down, or quite a lot if you heat the lube and crank up the pressure.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Also, maybe the brass sleeve got stuck down, inside the reservoir ?

[44Vaquero]

Thanks! I will be checking out the bottom of the reservoir later.

[Rebel Dave]

When I got my latest 45, i took it apart, and cleaned it it all up, and painted it. The pressure piston was stuck on the bottom. I got it out, and cleaned it real well, and I silver soldered the brass ring, to the round piston, and filed it so it was nice and round, and it works real good, just leaks a little all around the cylinder.
I tried ordering a pressure nut form Lyman, and they told me that they would not take my order as they had none in stock. That was two weeks ago. So unless they got some in, you're out of luck on a 450/4500 pressure nut. I use my 45s more than my RCBS Lam IIs.

Rebel Dave

[44Vaquero]

JonB,

And the answer is: Brass bushing jammed and stuck all the way at the bottom of the reservoir!!! Boiling did not remove all the lube, but did ruin the paint so refinishing is now in play.

Heat-gun is next maybe, it will break the bushing free?

[Rebel Dave]

You will probably have better luck using a butane torch. The torch cleaned mine up real easy, as the lube was hard as a rock. I held it over a lined trash can, and after a few minutes it ran out like water. It also helped a lot getting the brass ring out, along with the tube it goes in. hope this helps. You will like the Lyman 45, easy to adjust, and change dies.

Rebel Dave

[trapper9260]

When I got my latest 45, i took it apart, and cleaned it it all up, and painted it. The pressure piston was stuck on the bottom. I got it out, and cleaned it real well, and I silver soldered the brass ring, to the round piston, and filed it so it was nice and round, and it works real good, just leaks a little all around the cylinder.
I tried ordering a pressure nut form Lyman, and they told me that they would not take my order as they had none in stock. That was two weeks ago. So unless they got some in, you're out of luck on a 450/4500 pressure nut. I use my 45s more than my RCBS Lam IIs.

Rebel DaveYou might need to have someone that have a shop to make one for you.I know that is what i will have to do if one of my parts get broken.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

JonB,
And the answer is: Brass bushing jammed and stuck all the way at the bottom of the reservoir!!! Boiling did not remove all the lube, but did ruin the paint so refinishing is now in play.
Heat-gun is next maybe, it will break the bushing free?
I would have never thought boiling would ruin the finish...BUT years ago,I boiled one once and I wasn't patient enough to wait for the water to cool and the lube to harden, so when I removed the lubesizer from the pot of water, the still molten lube wound up clinging to the lubesizer...what a mess, I told myself I've never boil one again, even though I realized afterward, it may have been fine if I was patient enough to wait. Anyway, I attempted to remove the lube that was clinging to the outside and most of the finish came with it...I suspected it was my technique (mineral spirits and rags)...but maybe is was the boiling water loosening and lifting some of the finish??? who knows?

Anyway, I am a big fan of the heatgun, if you keep it far enough way from the paint, it hasn't removed any finish with the "many" lubesizers I've done that too. I'd worry about using a torch, getting the wrong spot too hot. In my Link, you'll see how I prop the sizer up over a cardboard box, to catch the molten lube, while using the heatgun.

NOW the brass sleeve, before I'd start heating anything, I'd rig up a wire hook, so once everything is hot, if the sleeve doesn't just flow out with the molten lube, then you'll have a handy long hook to pull it out...it shouldn't be stuck or rusted in there...I'd think it is just being held in place by old lube.

edited: on second thought, if it is stuck or rusted in place, you may want two hooks or something? to pull on it equally. worst case would be to remove the reservoir tube.

[44Vaquero]

Oh! JonB,

you have no idea how much fun my Sunday afternoon was!

The bushing had been pushed past the bottom of the tube which explains why it did not come out with the pressure nut. Being a split bushing it expanded slightly after passing the bottom of the tube and disengaged from the nut !!!! UGH!

30 min with a heat gun eventually allowed me to rotate the bushing and compress it by pushing a allen wrench through the die body set screw opening!! Such fun!

The brass is in rough shape, I may end up making new pressure nut from some UHMMW plastic I have on hand. I will make it a double O-ring like the newer ones.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Glad you go it out...sounds like a nightmare. The plastic should do fine, if you use a soft lube...and/or heat.

[WALLNUTT]

If the brass skirt is stuck at the bottom and has come loose from the nut can you just use a new type pressure nut and leave the brass skirt in the tube?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

If the brass skirt is stuck at the bottom and has come loose from the nut can you just use a new type pressure nut and leave the brass skirt in the tube?
If one were to leave the brass sleeve in the bottom of the reservoir, it would partially block or fully block lube flow out of the reservoir into the Die area.

[WALLNUTT]

I asked because I picked one up that had no brass skirt on the nut and couldn't tell if it was stuck in the bottom. I replaced the nut with a new O ring type. Lube flow seems fine so I guess the skirt isn't stuck in the bottom. I like the 45s as the alignment seems much better than my 450.

[44Vaquero]

Refinishing has been started!
174969

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I just love seeing those old tools getting fixed up
...But, I also like using old tools that look like they been all the way around the world and also been fixed a couple times by some clever redneck with a brazing torch.

Like this old Ideal #1

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/bubbadfullview.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/bubbadfullview.jpg.html)

[44Vaquero]

JonB,

That is a well used tool! Mine is painted, mounted and awaiting a new pressure plate. It was determined that the brass-wiper was not salvageable.

I may build a case for it similar to the ones lee used to supply with their turret presses.

175804

[montana_charlie]

I just love seeing those old tools getting fixed up
...But, I also like using old tools that look like they been all the way around the world and also been fixed a couple times by some clever redneck with a brazing torch.

Like this old Ideal #1

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/bubbadfullview.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/bubbadfullview.jpg.html)
Did the same redneck disable his garage door in order to come up with that return spring?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

A long, long, time ago(many decades no doubt), an unknown Bubba did the brazing and the Pipe extension on the broken handle.
Recently, a known Bubba (and moderator) did the Wooden knob, return spring, large gauge copper wire to attach the return spring to the bottom steel plate...as well as making the bottom steel plate. (the neighbors garage door spring still intact in their garage [smilie=1: :mrgreen: now the Spring Bubba used came off a drive engage linkage, from a self-propelled Snapper Push mower).