Tapping bullets from the mold

[zubrato]

For a long time I would tap the hinge pin, as I've read everywhere but I've never seen the following method posted, so I figure this may help some guys.

The best way I've found to tap bullets from a mold is tapping between the inside of the handles almost like playing a triangle. Uses the bullets inertia to work for you.

I've never had bullets drop from the mold like that, and it works especially well for long rifle bullets, or bullets with deep grooves.

Give it a try, especially if a bullet or two usually sticks in the mold for you.
Huge eye opener for me, after years of hinge tapping, contorting, tilting, and cussing.


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[DerekP Houston]

dang, never thought of that. Will give it a try thanks for the tip! I tap against the handles, since I figure I'd rather damage those than the mold.

[popper]

My rawhide mallet won't fit.

[DerekP Houston]

My rawhide mallet won't fit.

flip it over and use the handle :D

[bangerjim]

I too use a rawhide mallet.....gently.....only when needed. Best tool for the job. Never liked wooden tapping sticks! Tap the hinge nut or the side of the handles where they connect to the mold.

But most of my boolits just fall out on their own. Rarely do they need coaxed out. If you have to bang and hit and abuse your molds, you have burrs or some other kind of damage to the edges of the cavities. Burnish them off....carefully.....and your boolits will "jump" out of the mold!

banger

[runfiverun]

I'd just fix the mold.

[Tom W.]

Most of the time mine fall out easily when the mold gets sufficiently hot. Still have to tap occasionally, but not so much anymore. It does sound like something I may try soon.......

[DerekP Houston]

I too use a rawhide mallet.....gently.....only when needed. Best tool for the job. Never liked wooden tapping sticks! Tap the hinge nut or the side of the handles where they connect to the mold.

But most of my boolits just fall out on their own. Rarely do they need coaxed out. If you have to bang and hit and abuse your molds, you have burrs or some other kind of damage to the edges of the cavities. Burnish them off....carefully.....and your boolits will "jump" out of the mold!

banger

I'm hesitant to try and burnish my MP/NOE molds ;). It is the squared off design/SWC/WC that typically stick a bit if the mold isn't up to temp quite right. Once it is nice and hot just a gentle tap to get them to drop out. I satisfied myself beating the heck out of my RCBS molds early ;). That of course, is just for me.

[country gent]

While I dont tp the blocks I do lightly tap the handles where the blocks screw is. I use a small 8 ounce cap hammer and very lightly tap not to jar but to set up a vibration pattern. On some molds with cup popint bases or adjustable bases the full dia base and grooves or ogive can make them tight to remove. Normally only half the base is in each block and with the adjustables the insert is full dia.

[GhostHawk]

#1 Liquid Wrench dry lube works, and works well with everything I have tried it on thus far.

IMO it is far superior to smoking alum molds.

#2 I use a 3/4 pvc pipe some foot long. Heated the far end with my HF heat gun, squished it in vice. Cool, then poured hot lead down the inside till it had the right heft. Being pvc it is softer than metals, so it takes the damage. If I remember to use #1 once a year it takes just a very light tap with #2.

#3 with my Lee 6 cavity molds just open, close and reopen kinda like a scissors a couple of times and the boolits all fall. Watching those cavities closely for long term damage but as yet have seen none.

[zubrato]

I'm hesitant to try and burnish my MP/NOE molds ;). It is the squared off design/SWC/WC that typically stick a bit if the mold isn't up to temp quite right. Once it is nice and hot just a gentle tap to get them to drop out. I satisfied myself beating the heck out of my RCBS molds early ;). That of course, is just for me.

Yup! That's exactly it, majority of molds I own are MP, H&G, NOE and Lyman.
No mold fixing needed, just that some designs don't like to drop unless the temp if perfect, or because they're squared off.


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[JonB_in_Glencoe]

As a few said, I like to fix a mold so they drop out effortlessly.
But with that said, sometimes they need a tap...once in a rare while they need a smack (if for some reason temp gets too far off),
SO NEXT time it'll be "tapping between the inside of the handles almost like playing a triangle", thanks zubrato.

[Walter Laich]

have to try that though most just fall out. as said above temperature has a great deal to do with it

[fatelvis]

If you have to bang and hit and abuse your molds, you have burrs or some other kind of damage to the edges of the cavities. Burnish them off....carefully.....and your boolits will "jump" out of the mold!
How do you go about gently burnishing your mould? I have a couple that could use that.

[DerekP Houston]

I do believe he is referring to lementing the mold. Take a bullet cast from each cavity and use toothpaste or comet for a mild abrasive and spin it slow in each cavity to remove any burrs or rough spots. I've done it on some really sticky lee molds, but not with any of the custom ones.

[CASTER OF LEAD]

I'd just fix the mold.
Kinda what I was thinking,but that's just me.- CASTER

[randyrat]

With a new mold I always scrub inside the cavities with a toothbrush and Bar keepers friend, then I scrub it with Dawn dish soap. Most molds will drop bullets with a slight nudge after this is done, at the right temp.

[DerekP Houston]

With a new mold I always scrub inside the cavities with a toothbrush and Bar keepers friend, then I scrub it with Dawn dish soap. Most molds will drop bullets with a slight nudge after this is done, at the right temp.

ok that seems mild enough for me to give it a try. I generally degrease them with hot soapy water 2-3 times before use anyways. Thanks for the tip, I've got some bar keepers friend laying around for polishing stainless and copper bowls anyways.

[bangerjim]

Lementing is one thing. And works for in several situations.

Washing out with soap and water will not fix distorted metal.

But after use (even with even the best care & intentions), the edge of a cavity can get a teeny weeny ding or burr on it. Using a 20X microscope, I examine the cavity in question and after feeling with my finger tip (best sensitive analysis tool in your toolbox!) I take a HARDWOOD dowel an gently rub the offending spot. Does not take much. Easy does it. You are not removing metal, just moving it back in place on that edge....and the edge should be sharp and crisp when done. Do NOT round it over!

If the ding is severe, use some 1000 grit abrasive paste on the dowel....again gently....to take down the ding

This works on Aluminum molds very well. Over the years, any Al mold can get a slight ding here and there. that is why I now only buy brass molds!

banger

[reddog81]

I try to avoid banging on my molds unless necessary. I usually open the sprue plate with a gloved hand and tap the hinge pin or handles with the glove if needed.

Banging away needlessly on a precision instrument seemed like a bad idea even from my first time casting.

[DerekP Houston]

Thanks jim, I use bamboo skewers on my vent lines occasionally. Appreciate the explanation and clarification. I love my brass molds too ;). Had the lead too hot once though and it clogged the lines. Cleaned up just fine with rubbing an ingot on it while hot though will try your trick.

[zubrato]

Not sure if people understand there's no banging on the mold here..
Even the very best molds require a tap to free the blocks from each other, and another tap to free all the bullets from the mold.

I'm suggesting a tap to the inside of the wooden handles, rather than the hinge pin.
No beating blocks to death here.

Side note: rubbing a lead bullet or ingot on a hot mold is the best way I've found to clean vent lines.


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