Difference in primer brands??

[Rp-]

I don't know where this question should go and its probably in the wrong spot but anyways, what's the difference?

I've only been loading for about a year now. Most of my loading has been 9mm. The first 1000 loads i did i picked up tula brand primers at my local sporting goods store. They were 1$ cheaper per box than the win or cci they had. After that yhey stopped carrying them for a while so i had started buying the winchester primers.

Now i always see load data citing what case and primer they used but I'm curious about the variation. Is there that much difference in pressure from one brands s.p.p. to the next?

Furthermore, researching my new press i have found info for another press that clearly states cci or remington primers only and that you need to buy an explosion shield otherwise. What makes the cci and remington primers better for that press? Tighter tolerances? More stable compound?

What am i missing?

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[robg]

Some are more sensitive eg are easier to detonate .Lee autoprimers recommend CCI or win primers for this reason but if your asking about std or mag primers go by the powder manufacturing recommended type.hope this helps.

[Rp-]

I wasnt talking about the std vs mag. I understand the diff in those.

I was just talking about the difference from One small pistol standard primer to the next. You kinda hit on it though that some are more sensitive. Thats what i wanted to know about. But, are they really making that much difference in the load data that they need to be identified and "prescribed" for that particular load?

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[Preacher Jim]

If not using match primers I go with loading manual recommended primers. Each primer has a different flame column and hardness, soft hammer fall in some match pistols do not consistently set primer off.

[Outpost75]

In progressive loading machines you want to use only primers which have a lacquer seal which helps to mitigate liberation of dust from the priming compound from vibration, which could cause a static initiated explosion. Lee cautions with their pan-fed priming tool not to use certain brands of primers, because those brands are prone to sympathetically detonate others in the tray if one is crushed and set off due to a cocked primer, etc. The newer Lee priming tools are designed with a separation pin to isolate the primer being seated from the others in the tray, in the event one goes off in trying to seat a cocked primer or one into a tight primer pocket.

[dragon813gt]

Federals are the most sensitive and have been to known to mass detonate in Lee equipment. Hence the reason the blast shield and recommendation to not use them. As far as the rest goes. Only your gun will know which primer it prefers. Sometimes the difference when changing brands is negligible. Other times there can be quite a bit of difference. Load what works for you and don't worry about the manual recommendations. I do heed the Lee warnings and I don't use Federals unless I'm hand feeding the primers.

[smkummer]

I have heard CCI are on the harder side to ignite, great for open bolt submachineguns like a Uzi or Mac, not so good with small double action revolvers and progressive loading machines like the Lee 1000. Just today, I was checking all my small frame double action Colts (police positive, detective special, diamondback and so on) with a trigger pull gauge as I had a diamondback give me mis-fires this weekend. I bent the mainspring back and using CCI primers and cases that had the primer hole enlarged, the gun then fired 100%. A few years back, CCI was all I could get for primers, now I see my local dealer carries Winchester as well and the new copper Winchester primers are advertised as more sensitive. That is what I will switch to for future 38 revolver cartridges.

[garym1a2]

I wont buy nor load federal primers. I had one go off on me loading with a RCBS hand primer tool.

[fecmech]

If I'm shooting a DA revolver competitively or defensibly then it will have Federal primers. After that it's all about price. I think I've used just about all the SP primers out there and have not had a bad experience with any of them. The last few years have been Magtecs, Tula/Wolf, and now S&B's from Cabelas. Excellent ballistics and uniformity with all.

[DerekP Houston]

Imho other than what the other people have mentioned above, if you are near low end of the load data, you can work up with a different primer brand with usually very little change. I've used the same charge for my wad cutters with 3 different brands, but your results may vary. Currently I have a bunch of s&b I got cheap so I'm using those up first.

[Rp-]

...Only your gun will know which primer it prefers...

My 9s go in my ruger p85. It doesn't discriminate....

No Brand or type of ammo has ever given me fits in this. Save for 1 round of tulammo that didnt go off when the hammer hit it. Of course that was in a match as well.... :-/ go figure

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[scottfire1957]

Federals are the most sensitive and have been to known to mass detonate in Lee equipment. Hence the reason the blast shield and recommendation to not use them. As far as the rest goes. Only your gun will know which primer it prefers. Sometimes the difference when changing brands is negligible. Other times there can be quite a bit of difference. Load what works for you and don't worry about the manulo kal recommendations. I do heed the Lee warnings and I don't use Federals unless I'm hand feeding the primers.


Citation, please, about Federal primers mass detonating in Lee gear. Thanks.

[scottfire1957]

I wont buy nor load federal primers. I had one go off on me loading with a RCBS hand primer tool.

One, in how many cases primed?

[dragon813gt]

My 9s go in my ruger p85. It doesn't discriminate....

No Brand or type of ammo has ever given me fits in this. Save for 1 round of tulammo that didnt go off when the hammer hit it. Of course that was in a match as well.... :-/ go figure

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You completely missed my point. Shoot rounds over a chronograph w/ the only difference being the primers. The SD/ED will most likely be different between them. Same goes for accuracy. Just because they shoot well in yours does not mean they will shoot well in mine. So only your gun can determine which ones work best.

[Rp-]

Citation, please, about Federal primers mass detonating in Lee gear. Thanks.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/cc09804d15192195da2a53d81cf92153.jpg

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[sigep1764]

I dont use federal simply because if their packaging. Each primer is placed on its side instead of its top or bottom. So you have to tip each primer over in the flip tray. Pain in the but. Tgat said, my sdb runs the smoothest with cci 500 primers.

[dragon813gt]

One, in how many cases primed?

Does it take more than one to stop using them? I'm not about to risk my fingers when other brands work w/out a potential issue.

I will take Lee's word. It's on page two: http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/TR2441.pdf

[scottfire1957]

Does it take more than one to stop using them? I'm not about to risk my fingers when other brands work w/out a potential issue.

I will take Lee's word. It's on page two: http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/TR2441.pdf


Thanks, but can't all similar primers "explode" with similar force? I use federal primers. Proof, please.

[dragon813gt]

Find the proof yourself. I'm tired of people not doing their own research. This isn't a new statement from Lee.

Yes, all primers can explode by nature. The priming compound that Federal uses is more sensitive and their cups are softer. Their packaging is the first clue to this fact. And none of this is new information either.

[scottfire1957]

Find the proof yourself. I'm tired of people not doing their own research. This isn't a new statement from Lee.

Yes, all primers can explode by nature. The priming compound that Federal uses is more sensitive and their cups are softer. Their packaging is the first clue to this fact. And none of this is new information either.


I will do my own research, but, YOU made a claim that Federal primers "mass detonate" in Lee equipment. One line in a Lee manual, that does not state the same, is not proof.

Show the proof. Simple enough.

[scottfire1957]

Find the proof yourself. I'm tired of people not doing their own research. This isn't a new statement from Lee.

Yes, all primers can explode by nature. The priming compound that Federal uses is more sensitive and their cups are softer. Their packaging is the first clue to this fact. And none of this is new information either.

So far, I've read several forums, and so far, all is conjecture. So far, it sounds like old wives tales.

[scottfire1957]

Does it take more than one to stop using them? I'm not about to risk my fingers when other brands work w/out a potential issue.

I will take Lee's word. It's on page two: http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/TR2441.pdf

Question: What will you use, IF one of every primer you use goes bang prematurely?

[scottfire1957]

Find the proof yourself. I'm tired of people not doing their own research. This isn't a new statement from Lee.

Yes, all primers can explode by nature. The priming compound that Federal uses is more sensitive and their cups are softer. Their packaging is the first clue to this fact. And none of this is new information either.

P.S. I get jumped by masses of posters when I say something like "do your own research."

Wonder where those guys are now?

[scottfire1957]

I'm hearing crickets, from everyone.

[Mal Paso]

Federal Primers are rumored to use a different, more sensitive priming compound. Might have been a different compound at one time and the rumor persists. Could be just softer cups. There isn't any good solid info from any of the primer manufacturers.

I also heard there was no difference in amount or type of compound in Federal Standard and Mag Primers and proved it. Then disproved it.

Winchester with the "Sensitive" label came about after a bunch of Fail to Fires. They still had quality control issues after. Cracking of the primer cup completely eroded the firing pin bushing of a S&W 610 I saw. S&W covered the repair but the gunsmith was clear. It was the Primers that failed.

I like Federals best.

[scottfire1957]

Federal Primers are rumored to use a different, more sensitive priming compound. Might have been a different compound at one time and the rumor persists. Could be just softer cups. There isn't any good solid info from any of the primer manufacturers.

I also heard there was no difference in amount or type of compound in Federal Standard and Mag Primers and proved it. Then disproved it.

Winchester with the "Sensitive" label came about after a bunch of Fail to Fires. They still had quality control issues after. Cracking of the primer cup completely eroded the firing pin bushing of a S&W 610 I saw. S&W covered the repair but the gunsmith was clear. It was the Primers that failed.

I like Federals best.

Thank you, sir.

[Handloader109]

He gave you the main reference, heard elsewhere Lee didn't get along with federal. I have no idea as to Veracity of the statement. I've never used federal so I have no opinion on them, I don't like s&b, had several failure to fire in two of my guns. Won't be buying any more of them. Winchester work OK, I like cci best so far.

[scottfire1957]

He gave you the main reference, heard elsewhere Lee didn't get along with federal. I have no idea as to Veracity of the statement. I've never used federal so I have no opinion on them, I don't like s&b, had several failure to fire in two of my guns. Won't be buying any more of them. Winchester work OK, I like cci best so far.

He gave a rumor, nothing else.

[Rp-]

Question: What will you use, IF one of every primer you use goes bang prematurely?
If one of every primer o use goes bang prematurely? Well first I'd use alcohol to calm my nerves and then I'd use toilet paper to clean up the mess...

There's no need to jump on the guy like this. Everyone else took his statement as a statement a d chose to accept it or not. Relax and get off his back. Were all on the same team aren't we?


He provided enough proof for me to answer my questions about what to use in my lee. Move on. Don't be jerk about it.

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[scottfire1957]

If one of every primer o use goes bang prematurely? Well first I'd use alcohol to calm my nerves and then I'd use toilet paper to clean up the mess...

There's no need to jump on the guy like this. Everyone else took his statement as a statement a d chose to accept it or not. Relax and get off his back. Were all on the same team aren't we?


He provided enough proof for me to answer my questions about what to use in my lee. Move on. Don't be jerk about it.

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Thank you, I would do the same if a primer ignited during reloading. However, he made a specific charge. He needs to show proof of such.

edit: he stated federal primers mass detonate in Lee gear.

[Rp-]

Damn get over it already. Dont you have something better to do than harass him over something so trivial

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[scottfire1957]

Damn get over it already. Dont you have something better to do than harass him over something so trivial

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Damning an entire line of primers is trivial? Perpetuating an old wives tale is trivial?

[Rp-]

Just relax bud

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[scottfire1957]

Just relax bud

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I am relaxed as can be. I have nothing to prove.

[lotech]

Your request for verification for what you believe may be nothing more than a rumor is a reasonable one. You can contact Lee for confirmation. They did the testing and evaluation some years ago after customers' reports of accidents.

[Fernando]

Both CCI and Fed are the same company - wouldn't surprise me if they were the same with normal lot variations.
Vista outdoors

[RogerDat]

Lee Manuals specifically mention which primers to use and why. Specifically state the federal primers are not "bad" or "worse" but just not entirely compatible with their equipment.

The side packing of the primers in the tray is to put more space between primers and prevent chain fires from spreading as easily in the package. Chain goes sideways, not length of package. Longer run more chance to "fan out". Federal are reported (not verified by me) to be better choice for really cold weather hunting. Simply easier to set off so less likely to have a FTF when the temps are low.

[DerekP Houston]

He gave you the main reference, heard elsewhere Lee didn't get along with federal. I have no idea as to Veracity of the statement. I've never used federal so I have no opinion on them, I don't like s&b, had several failure to fire in two of my guns. Won't be buying any more of them. Winchester work OK, I like cci best so far.

While I agree cci and winchester are my preferred brands and I stock piled enough, I have used well in excess of 10k+ s&b just in small pistol primere with out a single issue beyond operator failure (didn't seat a few deep enough). They are all equally reliably I my eyes as s&b factory ammo has been outstanding to me and a very regular brand coming from europe.

I *did* see the warning on the Lee kit box about not using federal primers but have not even tried the.. to me the packaging is twice as large and the sideways box makes filling my tray a pain, so I just skipped the.. they all appear to be around 27-28 per thousand online, with tul and s&b around 20 per k with a good sale.

[tygar]

If whatever your shooting has a floating firing pin, use CCI either the military or standard seems to be hard enough.(for matches use their BR) Especially ARs, M14s, M1s etc. SLAM fires DO happen. I use Fed F210M & F215M for all bolt hunting, BR, Tactical etc shooting. Flat out the best; except for 223 bolts which seem to shoot best with Rem BR. But as usual, YMMV.

For pistol LP or SP, don't see much difference in the top brands, but have had (& recently) failure to fire in a S&W .500 with CCI LR that I was trying. (went back to Fed LR there are no 2nd chances on FTFs) One problem is that the newer revolvers don't have the firing pin as part of the hammer but the pin thru receiver & the old style seemed to be a harder strike with, to me, more sure detonation.

I use Fed, Rem, CCI, Win (pistol only). I havn't ever used any of the foreign or off brands so can't comment, but would not use them, even to save a buck. Only if I had no other choice. Buy in bulk, keep lots of what you use on hand. Primers have not been hard to get for quite awhile now. FWIW

[lightman]

While they all work ok, most of us have our favorites. Over the years I have had fewer issues of fit with CCI and thats what I buy the most of. I use Federal 210M in my match ammo and I like the Remington small rifle BR in my 223 bolt gun. If I primed with a Lee tool I would do some research.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Back in the time frame of from the `70`s thru the mid `90`s when I did a LOT of PPC shooting with .38`s I used Federal primers exclusively. On average I was loading and shooting about 25K a year in just my .38`s. Yes, I know all about the warnings about them. All I do know is that I never had one go off on me under and circumstances. The single factor I could say helped in not having a bad happening is the fact I didn`t rush the priming process and was aware of what I was doing all the time. Been reloading for going on 50 odd years and still have all my fingers as well as all my other good looking features, just wish I still had my head of hair though!Robert

[Digital Dan]

Haven't seen so much hoohaw on a topic here in quite a spell. If a company suggests use of particular components with their equipment I'd suggest following their advise or getting different equipment. The advise may originate from their lawyers. -hint-

Primer brands, dimensions and brisance are all variables. The difference may be inconsequential in middle of the road cast bullet shooting, but can become quite pertinent in the realm of max loads. It is the reason that load manuals are specific about most if not all aspects of their loads.

You want to be a test pilot, go for it. Just remember there are very few old bold pilots.

[Lon246]

I know several Lyman reloading manuals have listed a published load with pressure & velocity.
Then, in a following table, they changed the brass, bullet and primer one at a time showing the pressure & velocity change.
The increases shown for maximum loads would have been well over maximum, something a prudent man would not do.
I think you can usually succeed in substituting components but only well below maximum loads.
But then, of course, you really don't know what you have, do you?

[Blackwater]

Basically, the primary difference in primers depends on how they're stored. A moderately cool, dark place is best, along with being dry. Here in the south, amid high humidity outside, the temp in a controlled environment is plenty good, and I've never had to throw any primers away. But I'm very scrupulous (some would call it "cheap") in where and how I store my primers.

Other than that, each primer mfgr. has it's own proprietary formula for the impact sensitive igniter they use in their primers, and it's not unknown for certain loads to favor certain primers. For instance, a buddy worked up a load once for his Ruger in .45 LC, that used 6.7 gr. of Red Dot under a cast bullet. It was nicely accurate, but one day, he ran out of his usually preferred WW primers and substituted CCI LP st. primers for the WLP's. He was amazed when he put the first 5 touching at 21 yds! Literally one ragged hole! And the only difference was the primers.

Does that happen often? No, and most shooters today can't tell the difference if it did. So it's a matter whose answer lies in the degrees of difference it's most likely to make, and that's really incalculable. Only way to know what any given gun and load combo works best is to lay in a supply of all the appropriate primers you can get your hands on, and try them on paper. If you're going to shoot anyway, why not experiement and learn something? Just makes sense, really. Sometimes, the real answer to a bad day or an exceptionally good one, is NOT "Well I just had a bad (or good) day." This is what makes our wonderful pursuit casting and reloading so consistently and eternally interesting. None of us will ever "know it all." WAY too many variables operating and active.

But it's not usually a critical issue. Use any std. primer that fits, and there's no real danger to you or bystanders, but change to a magnum from std., or visa versa, and there could be problems. Going to a weaker primer in a magnum with slow burning ball powders can make the muzzle blast kind'a wrap around the gun and have it seem like the blast is hitting you in the face. I only ran into this once in my life, though, but if you're going to reload, you really need to learn everything you can about it. There ARE things that can be combined to make up potentially deadly or destructive loads, and you really need to simply be aware of them, just like if you were at sea, you'd need to know where the shoals and reefs are. Simple, but some these days don't want to deal with that, but nobody has yet devised a way to avoid reality, no matter how hard we try to. It's just a part and parcel of reloading that we need to know what we're doing, and if not sure, stick with posted known data from good sources with real pressure guns, who can certify the actual safety of the loads in their test equipment.

And BTW, welcome to the board. You'll find this to be the absolute BEST of all sites on the net. Lots of VERY knowledgeable and very experienced folks here who can really be of great help. And if you need to learn as much as you can, reading the archives is one of the best ways possible for you to do that. Tremendous knowledge here, and it's all based on real-world experience, too. Some things that appear counter-intuitive, or counter to what one has normally heard around the gun shops, can be easily understood and corrected by the great mass of knowledge here. Many work in related technical fields, and can explain things that others without that particular training could never explain very well or assuredly. Good to have another new guy here. Won't be long, I expect, before you'll be contributing your own experiences, like the old vets here.

[Rp-]

Thanks blackwater.

I just happened across this today on facebook

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/afcd15d1f1d8b8c8fb57ec76b839cfd1.jpg


http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/d484318ebaf8ea2aea37ddab892b52d0.jpg

I guess if you think CCI is any less dangerous than any other primer you aren't entirely correct.

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[bullseye67]

Hmmmmm. This has seemed to move from the original question to....something else? I load a lot, 12K+ 32 S&W long wadcutters small powder charges and low velocity. I tested CCI, WW, Remington, Federal, Russian(Tula) and Lapula marketed from late 80's. All loaded one at a time, powder weighted for each one, hand primed with a Lee Ram prime as close to the same as I am capabile, wadcutters weighed and sorted within .2gr. Fired over sandbags, 50/primer type. As a control I fired 50 rounds with mixed primers, powder measured by a Lee Auto drum, all loaded on a Lee Load Master. All said and done a whole bunch of time and...drum roll....not enough difference or as much difference as within the brands. The groups were the same the velocity was close. All removed the 10 ring on a NRA slow fire target at 20 yards. Now I wait for the Russian primers to go on sale and stock up. You might have different results.....

[garym1a2]

Only one in 1000. But I have never had one blow in over 20K of Win/CCI. My eyes are too important to risk another.



One, in how many cases primed?

[Smk SHoe]

Had a federal SPP blow in a Dillion 650 couple months ago and chain reaction had the entire sleeve go. Primer pieces stuck in the ceiling. steel sleeve around the primer tube did its job. tore up a lot of parts on the machine that Dillion replaced right away. Doing research after the incident, a lot of people say stay away from federal like the plague in a progressive. I have loaded ALOT of ammo on this 650 with federal and never a issue. Not saying it wasn't a sideways primer that did it. Customer service rep at Dillion said federal are a little softer cups but did say that he uses federal primers in his. Only reason I changed to winchester SPP is supply at local gun shop. Will still use federal large pistol primers in the 650 ( vary large supply)

[Hick]

So, the original post asked about differences in primer brands. What follows came from an article about differences. I copied the pertinent info to my computer but cannot remember where I got it (Maybe from a post here??). All I can add is that I use WLR exclusively in my M1 Garand because it looks to me like the dents in the primers BEFORE they are fired (chambered but not fired) seem a little smaller than with CCI or Rem (haven't tried Federal). What I'm saying here is that that floating firing pin makes a mark when the bolt slams closed, and the marks seem smaller with WLR, so I use them to avoid a slam fire (which has not yet happened with 2400 rounds down the range).

Here's the article I found somewhere and copied:

"Magnum are on the "HOT" side, means that they will produce a hotter flame and a higher start pressure. They usually are used to ignite a large amount of slow burning powder.

A high starting pressure can engage the bullet deep into the grooves before the load is completely ignited, causing pressure peaks, but I don't think this might occur with fast to medium-fast burning powders in a relatively small capacity case.
Also, the cooler the ambiant temperature will be, bigger will be the difference between Magnum and Large Rifle.

Even in each classes, there are differences in heat and starting pressure.
For accuracy, we usually tend to use "cool, but I experienced some cases were a higher temperature primer makes no difference and/or have better performances. One must try that to know what is best.
And more, there is also the relative velocity (speed of combustion of the primer compound) which also makes a big difference.

Relative heat is usually widely admitted as follow (at ambiant temperature - NOT from a scientific experimentation);
Hotter
Fed 215
WLRM
CCI250
Fed 210
Rem 9 1/2 M
WLR
Fed 210
CCI BR2
CCI 200
Rem 9 1/2
Cooler


Relative pressure (20 Deg. C);
Fed 215 (9.1 Mpa)
WLR (8.8 Mpa)
Fed 210 (7.5 Mpa)
CCI 200 (7.0 Mpa)
CCI 250 (6.9 Mpa)
Pressure data from Norma"

[farmersamm]

Just from my observations.

Federal: Seat uniformly every time, fire every time (even with a handgun that has a weak hammer strike), and deprime very uniformly

Winchester: Seat well most of the time (sometimes seat high due to cup diameter being a skosh off), fire every time (also with the odd gun that has a weak strike), deprime uniformly

CCI: Seat well all of the time, will not fire if the strike is less than optimal, do not deprime well (very often requiring a second stroke of the press to dislodge the primer from the die pin)

S&B: Seat well all of the time, will not fire unless the strike is optimal, deprime very well ((These are a very good choice for .38 plinker rounds, very cheap to load)

If in stock, I will buy multi bricks of Federal Large, and Small, pistol primers. IMHO, they're the best. My second choice is Winchester. I will not buy CCI.

These observations are from loading 9mm, 38spl, 357mag, 44mag, and 45acp. I do not reload/shoot any rifle rounds.

Standard pistol primers vs. magnum pistol primers: Mag primers give 30fps more than std primers in my 357 with HP-38. I strictly use mag primers when running H-110. If data calls for mag primers, I use mag primers.......why buy the books if you're not gonna use the data in the books. That's like the kids that mess up perfectly good trucks/cars by adding all the aftermarket **** to them. I see a truck that's been messed with, and I walk away immediately.

[Shiloh]

I have nothing precision enough to tell the difference in primers as far as firearms go. Yeah, slight (Very) different velocities but that's it.

I've seated primers with hand tools, press accessories, and progressive tools. Not a problem with any primer in 35 years. I use Win and CCI almost exclusively, but have used Remington, and Federal.

Shiloh

[fredj338]

I dont use federal simply because if their packaging. Each primer is placed on its side instead of its top or bottom. So you have to tip each primer over in the flip tray. Pain in the but. Tgat said, my sdb runs the smoothest with cci 500 primers.

Get a bigger flip tray??? The all make larger trays now.
I use pretty much what I can get. For pistol, doesn't change things much, especially if you are not loading max. If you work a load up to max with one primer, best to back off 5% & rework the load, it can matter.
For rifle, diff primers can raise pressures. Again, only an issue with max loads. In rifles, primers can also have quite a diff in accuracy. I have one rifle that loves CCIBR primers. It shoots ok with others, but the same load & just switching primers rounds out my groups & gets me about 25% more accurate loads.
FWIW, I won't buy Russian primers, nor would I buy Chinese made if offered at any price. The cost diff isn't that much, $5-$6/1000, I can afford that to not put $$ in Putin's pocket.
Federal primers, no issues. I have loaded 10s of 1000s on my Dillon, never a primer detonation. I have always suspected those that have as there is more to the story.

[Victor N TN]

I know there is a difference in the flash... But as far as the strength of the cup and anvil...? I have no idea.

[GONRA]

GONRA sez (pretty sure ya'll already onto this stuff) be SURE to use
Remington 7 1/2 or CCI MILITARY 0.175 size primers for 5.56x45mm (.223) in semiautos
and CCI MILITARY primers for 0.210 size rifle cartridges to avoid slamfires.

Am years waaay behind on this stuff, but historically -
Federal bragged about using "basic lead styphnate" rather than
"normal lead styphnate hydrate" in their primers.
("Normal lead styphnate hydrate" is used by all other primer manufacturers.)

If Federal is corporately connected with CCI, will be interesting to see how all this shakes out.
Pretty sure Federal HAS to use FA 956 "normal lead styphnate hydrate" type primer mix
in its Lake City Military Ammo Production to meet U.S.&.A. GI Military specs.

Bet CCI will win, unless there is some Big Corporate Stake in preserving the differences.

Other than that, have had to select among small pistol primers
to find those that will NOT PUNCTURE with small diameter Luger type striker firing pins.

Yeah its BORING - have phun guys.....