New process=good results

[Lead melter]

As some of you know, i have been having a lot of trouble with a new Lyman 314299 mold. The problems and trial/error solutions have been multitudinous [50 cent word there] and I would guess I cast, melted, and re-cast nearly 500 boolits before deciding to send the mold back.

I also recently started to flux/stir with a pine dowel rod. I read it here and figured it was worth a try. The rod charred and small pieces break off when stirring.

Now to tie the two together! While casting all those boolits from the bad mold, I would simply dump the faulty ones back in the pot with lube and gas checks attached, stir and cast again. I never once removed any slag, dross, or whatever you wish to call it. It just built up more and more.

What I noticed was that the boolits kept getting progressively better in appearance with no 'trash' visible in the sides or noses.

After deciding to send the mold back, I cast 100 of the Lee C312-185-1R in my mold which has been beagled to cast .313"-.315". These are the best looking and most consistant I have yet cast. A sample averaged less than one grain variance with final weight at 178 grains.

Could the repetitive fluxing and melting with the pine dowel have cleaned up the alloy this much? Maybe the dross layer on top kept impurities at a minimum?

This is a 5-year old Lee 10lb bottom pour pot, not cleaned beforehand.

I'd like to hear of other results akin to these, or opinions on the matter.

[wiljen]

I do think fluxing and what you flux with makes a difference. I swear by Lenox Tinning flux in my pot.

[RP]

well like you I have started using a wood stir stick I got that from here to and I have had better results I also started using sawdust for flux. See if fluxing with sawdust helps you any may clean that old pot out nicely helped mine and its 20 years plus old

[dakotashooter2]

I am seeing more weight consistency since I started to stir with a pine dowel. I was previously getting up to 3 grn variation on 200 grn bullets. That variation has now dropped to around 1/2 a grn or less.


:castmine:

[GabbyM]

Now you've gone and done it.
I'll have to go out back and pull my oak limbs out of the brush burn pile to make myself some stir sticks.

[Junior1942]

Looks to me like the dross insulated the melt and raised the casting temperature.

[leftiye]

Leadmelter,
My guess is that the stuff you let float on the top is keeping oxygen from getting to the alloy to produce oxides. The stirring with the stick is the only way to go, much better than anything else to stir with. When you get fancy, stop melting your sprues, etc in your main pot. An RCBS pot on a hotplate might work. On a Coleman stove works for me. I keep crushed charcoal on top of my melt. I let the ashes build up, and just add more charcoal from time to time (take off some of the ashes when too much has built up). Melt your ingots in the secondary pot too. flux before replenishing your main pot. This and going to light frosting has solved an inclusion problem for me that went on for twenty years.

Junior's idea is probly riht also.

[1Shirt]

Think Jr. hit it on the head. I don't skim the stuff on top after I sture with a wood dowl until I am done casting. Then I save the dross as well to add to a big pot when I am melting a lot down, and usually pick up a few pounds of clean from that after I skim.
1Shirt!

[44man]

I would think the stick makes better contact with the metal all through the pot. Stuff like wax has to be stirred in but just doesn't go everywhere.
Plus the stick is scraping too.