Question's on my Lube-A-Matic

[rda72927]

Ok, got my first lube sizer. I'm sure like most folks, get a new toy, have to play with it NOW! It was listed that Lyman and RCBS sizing dies are interchangeable for both machines. But when installing the Lyman sizing die in the LAM2, the Die Locking cap does not screw down flush with either of the Lyman's, about 1/8 inch high. But I forge ahead anyway. (yes I was reading the instructions) Load the lube and test some Lyman 401654's. I am getting lube just above the top band. I've adjusted the sizing depth to as short as I can. I have come up with a work around (setting a washer on top of the Die locking cap). But I don't think I should have to pug up the top hole in the sizing die or any other work around. I can't see what I have got set up wrong. Will the LAM2 only really work with RCBS sizing die's?

Thanks for anyone's time on this...

[cheese1566]

My two RCBS LAM have die retaining nuts that have a gap as well. Both my Lyman and RCBS dies do this. The bottom of the die needs to butt up to the bottoms hole in the casting to keep lube from squirting out the bottom too much. Just snug them up, no brute force needed. They are fine thread in cast iron so be gentle and don't cross thread.

Are you lubing a short boolit and it's going in the sizer too far?
if so, try moving the locknut for the threaded adjustment (threaded tube on the lower cast arm) from the bottom to the top side of the casting. This will give you another 3/16" or so to let you raise the adjusting tube up higher.

[VHoward]

I don't know. I went the other way. I bought a Lyman 4500 and used a mix of rcbs and lyman dies without issues. I have since sold that set up and purchased a Star sizer. Won't be looking back.

[leadman]

The only issue I have with using a Lyman die in my RCBS machine is sometimes the holes are in the wrong spot or too many of them. If you look at an RCBS die and a boolit from the proper size RCBS mold you may find the holes in the die line up with the lube grooves of the boolit. Same goes for Lyman. Took me a few years to notice this.
So remove the die from the machine and compare it to the boolit you are trying to lube and take note of where the holes are in relation to the lube grooves. Then adjust the stop for the center pin so the holes and lube grooves line up as best you can.
Also use the least amount of lube pressure that will do the job so lube won't be forced where you don't want it. A boolit that is barely touched by the sizer can be a problem as it will not seal well in the die. If you get lube under the boolit and the die is adjust correctly and have the pressure set properly a small piece of egg carton foam on the center pin of the die goes a long way to preventing this.

[rda72927]

Are you lubing a short boolit and it's going in the sizer too far?
if so, try moving the locknut for the threaded adjustment (threaded tube on the lower cast arm) from the bottom to the top side of the casting. This will give you another 3/16" or so to let you raise the adjusting tube up higher.

Thanks for your response, That did the trick. Moving the Bullet Ejector Screw to top side gave me the adjustment needed to set the bullet depth correctly. Working like a charm. Side note, I also learned that Lyman and RCBS DO NOT use the same numbers for the Top Punches. The Lyman 637 top punch for 9mm is not the same as the RCBS 637. Now I have a top punch for a 45 ACP. Guess I need to get a 45.

[Mike W1]

Here's a trick I believe came from this forum.
Lyman 45 and short bullet quick fix.
If you've ever tried to lube a short bullet (H&G 68, BD45, 358345,
etc) in a lyman 45 you know you run out of adjustment well short of
the depth needed.
People have advised plugging all but the top hole in the H&I die
with lead shot and I've had varying degrees of success with that,
but still wanted a way to get the machine to insert the bullet to
the same depth every time.

I was wandering through Lowes looking for some screws for another
project when I saw a drawer in the hardware cabinet labeled Steel
spacers and there it was, a 1/4 x 3/8 x 3/4 steel tube for $1.15.

I bought one - went home removed the H&I Die, pulled the stem out
the hole where the die had been, put the sleeve around the stem and
reinserted it, then reinserted the H&I die and viola!!! Now I can
adjust the sizer until it only allows 1mm travel for gas check
seating or any depth greater than that for bullet sizing without
having to plug the holes. If I need the extra depth, it takes about
30 seconds to remove the sleeve and I'm back in business.

[MT Chambers]

I have 2 Lymans, 2 RCBS, and 2 Stars, and the Lyman/RCBS take both makes of dies interchangeably, I have never had to worry about holes lining up or changing anything except the depth adj.....the STAR is a totally dif. machine where you do have to worry about holes lining up, but the Star is still the best by far. The inside "I" post precludes the need to plug or even count holes on the Lyman/RCBS machines.

[Mk42gunner]

Thanks for your response, That did the trick. Moving the Bullet Ejector Screw to top side gave me the adjustment needed to set the bullet depth correctly. Working like a charm. Side note, I also learned that Lyman and RCBS DO NOT use the same numbers for the Top Punches. The Lyman 637 top punch for 9mm is not the same as the RCBS 637. Now I have a top punch for a 45 ACP. Guess I need to get a 45.
You over achiever you:kidding:. This is the first time I have heard of using a top punch as an excuse to buy a new gun, mostly it is done with either die sets or molds.

Good luck sneaking that reasoning by the wife.

Robert

[SyberShooter]

Here's a trick I believe came from this forum.
Lyman 45 and short bullet quick fix.
If you've ever tried to lube a short bullet (H&G 68, BD45, 358345,
etc) in a lyman 45 you know you run out of adjustment well short of
the depth needed.
People have advised plugging all but the top hole in the H&I die
with lead shot and I've had varying degrees of success with that,
but still wanted a way to get the machine to insert the bullet to
the same depth every time.

I was wandering through Lowes looking for some screws for another
project when I saw a drawer in the hardware cabinet labeled Steel
spacers and there it was, a 1/4 x 3/8 x 3/4 steel tube for $1.15.

I bought one - went home removed the H&I Die, pulled the stem out
the hole where the die had been, put the sleeve around the stem and
reinserted it, then reinserted the H&I die and viola!!! Now I can
adjust the sizer until it only allows 1mm travel for gas check
seating or any depth greater than that for bullet sizing without
having to plug the holes. If I need the extra depth, it takes about
30 seconds to remove the sleeve and I'm back in business.

That is a GREAT tip Mike - Thanks