What to look for when buying a Rem RB?

[Harleysboss]

I'm very interested in buying my first Rem Rolling Block. Would love to pick up a 50-70. Have seen a number of them for sale on various auction sites. My problem lies in what to look for as far as is it safe to shoot. What kind of questions should I be asking the seller etc. What are the more common problem areas should I be looking at. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

[marlinman93]

Not sure there are questions to ask the seller. I'd be more concerned that you are a well informed buyer! Unfortunately not all sellers are honest, so depending on the seller, you may not get info you'd appreciate, and more likely get info that helps sell the gun. I would suggest you find a copy of George Layman's book on the military Rolling Block rifles, if a military is what you desire? If you are looking at Sporting models, his book wont be much help.
Most of the common variations of military Rolling Block are still affordable, and the imports from other countries can often be the best pricing. Odd calibers can create challenges to your wallet to get brass and dies to shoot. The .50-70 you desire should be readily available brass, and not as spendy either.
The things you need to look at are in some cases the same things you'd look for in any 100+ year old gun. Bore of course, but look the chamber over also! Sometimes a bulged chamber is hard to see, but can create extraction problems. If you want to shoot it, you want the bore to be good!
Look for clean, well fitting wood. A lot were swapped at arsenals, or by later owners. Not that this is totally bad, but price should reflect originality.
The breech block and hammer should fit the receiver well, and also each other! If you put the hammer at half cock, the breech block shouldn't open, and should also only move slightly before being stopped by the breechblock. If it moves much, the gun will have head space issues, and you should pass. The angle of the breech block to the rear of the barrel should be parallel. If you put the hammer halfway back, and pull back on the breech block, you can see if there's much daylight between the block and barrel. Too much, and it will need either new pins made, or the block squared, and barrel set back. Not worth it, and I'd pass on those guns.
Hope this helps.

[MT Chambers]

Check for lockup of block when closed and hammer cocked, check if the 2 pins are not moving at all (on side of the action).

[JSnover]

Check for lockup of block when closed and hammer cocked, check if the 2 pins are not moving at all (on side of the action).
Also look for indications that the hammer block is dragging on the underside of the breech block; When you cock it you'll be able to see scrapes or scratches.
With the breech block closed, pull the hammer to half-cock (if it has that feature, hold it back just a bit with your thumb if it doesn't). Try to pull the breech block open. It should just barely move, like maybe 2 thousandths on mine if I had to guess.

[pietro]

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Without a hands-on inspection by a knowledgeable buyer prior to the purchase, it would be virtually impossible to pick out any issues that could result in a prohibitively expensive repair.

The only other recourse would be to buy from one of the nation-wide auctions houses that have both an excellent reputation (track record) and a written pre-sale warranty/refund policy.

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[Harleysboss]

Thanks for all the info. I have yet to come across one that I can inspect first hand. I will have to make sure there is a good return policy if I decide to buy one from an auction house.

[marlinman93]

Any gun purchased without a hands on inspection is a **** shoot. I personally have only made a few internet purchases of firearms, and always feel a bit uneasy when I do. So far mine have worked out, but I hear enough horror stories to know that there are many old guns sold that wouldn't pass a hands on inspection. Most auction houses will only guarantee it's as described, and have a caveat that all purchases should be checked by a competent gunsmith before firing. I doubt you'd get them to take a gun back if it's out of spec.

[Harleysboss]

That's what I've been afraid of and that's what has been keeping me from buying one. The old money tree in the backyard is a little lacking so its hard to just take a chance that the gun will be what I want or need.

[marlinman93]

That's what I've been afraid of and that's what has been keeping me from buying one. The old money tree in the backyard is a little lacking so its hard to just take a chance that the gun will be what I want or need.

Since you're in Washington, I'd try to get to the Washington Arms Collectors show in Puyallup at the fairgrounds! I get up there occasionally, and every time I've been there I'd see a few, or a lot at that show. At least as it pertains to military Rolling Blocks. I rarely see Rolling Block Sporting Rifles at any shows, and I'm always looking for them. I did see a large number of Sporters at Denver last month, but all the prices was pretty crazy high!

[Harleysboss]

I have not been to that gun show in many years. I only live 5 mins from the fairgrounds so I will need to attend and at least start getting my hands on experience. Thanks

[varsity07840]

There are way too many Rollers for sale on the internet that are incorrectly advertised, some I dare say, intentionally. Correctly identifying a Roller can be much more involved than for, say, a Trapdoor or Sharps. Here's an example. I certainly don't know if it's intentionally misleading or just a result of lack of knowledge on the seller's part. I'd guess the latter.

http://www.gunbroker.com/item/562137531. Note the bottleneck cartridges. Certainly not a .45-70. Could be a .43 Spanish. There are a lot of Rollers out there that are Danish or Swedish that are chambered for metric cartridges that are similar
but not the same as the .45-70 or .50-70 and may be advertised as such. If you're looking for a NY State or 1871 Springfield, make sure that the "return to half cock" functions properly when closing the breech block. These are the only models BTW that have that feature.

[texasnative46]

To All,

In my experience in buying/selling rifles/handguns/shotguns from individuals/estates/auctions over the last over 50 years, I've found that about HALF the people who are selling firearms have NO CLUE as to what they are trying to sell.
(I recently responded to a local newspaper "for sale" advertisement for a "Civil War gun", which turned out to be an ordinary WWII-era British Enfield in .303 caliber.)

yours, tex

[country gent]

another issue is alot have been modified or added to for scopes, sights ect ect. Wood may have been refinished and the work done questionable at best, Metal may be refinished and edges rounded or uneven. These are great rifles and a great new way to play but alot arnt as they seem. I have a roller here that has 2 screws holes to mount a redfield reciever sight on the reciever ring. Why I dont know, I would have drilled tang for a tang sight personally.

[marlinman93]

I think that many sellers aren't being totally dishonest, but as mentioned previously, they too are ignorant of what they have for sale. When they do try to find out more info, they often see certain features, or calibers that bring good premiums, and jump quickly to think that must be their gun! It's not just Rolling Blocks, but every old gun. People almost always think their gun is the rare variation that gets much higher values.
I bought one of my Ballard Pacific rifles at a local auction years ago. The auction house had a tag on it reading, "Marlin muzzleloader rifle". I chuckled when I saw the description, as I knew old muzzleloaders rarely bring much money. This wasn't an exception, and it went way too low. (to me!)