New caster advice

[Mauser48]

I'm looking into finally casting my own bullets. I'm going to focus on the Lee 38 cal 158 grain swc mold in a 6 cavity. I'm just looking to plink with it. I would like to tumble lube since it's easiest. Any other lube recomendations? What lead is best for this and what temp should I run it at? A friend said he has 400 pounds of lead in his garage in Lyman ingots and he doesn't cast. I could probably get it for free or really cheap. No idea on the lead content. How do you know when your bullets are coming out good? Should they be water dropped? Does the mold ever get too hot while casting? If so how will you know? What do you guys like to Flux with? That's all I can think of for now. I know that's a lot of questions but you guys are the best. Let me know if you need anymore info. Thanks in advance!

[Mauser48]

Bump. Not a lot of views because of the crash.

[country gent]

The mould is a good choice as to style but a 6 cavity may be a little much starting out at first to get it all right. Bullets should drop with clean crisp lines and edges. Especially the bases. Should have a smooth shiley apperance on surfaces, no wrinkles or voids. If thy look frosty then the mould, alloy or both are 2 hot. At 38 spl velocites water dropping may not be neccesary. Adding a little tin depending on alloy being used .5%-2% will help fillout and ease casting. In the casting pot with clean lead beeswax or prffin works good, In the smelting pot with dirty lead pine sawdust wood shavings works well. When fluxing stirring is important as whats used, You want to work the lead thru the flux stirring it and the flux thru the lead agiiotating it well. Really scarp the sides and bottom of pot to dislodge sticking materials also. Cast at a comfortable brisk pace. Pre heat mould on a hot plate or on top of the lead pot before casting. I set them on top of pot or hot plate sprue plate down to get it hot and let heat work thru. Start with the mould warmed for 8-10 mins on top of the pot. Lead alloy around 700*-750* ( check with a lead thermometer) and start with 2 cavites for 6=10 pours or good bullets then 4 cavites same way then all 6. When casting cast keep the pace up at a comfortable level, When sorting sort dont try to do both together. Pour large sprues and they should take a few seconds to frost or set up. Cut sprue and give a few seconds for bullet to cool and drop out on towel. An old hammer handle, wood dowel, small dead blow soft faced hammer or plastic cap hammer in the 8oz range are handy when bullet stick in cavites to tap hinge pin to dislodge them. Some moulds also need a light tap on hinge pin to aid opening. Keep a good notebook on temps preheats alloy and any other info.

[Mauser48]

Thanks that's very helpful. How about safety? I would wear gloves but how about a respirator? If I'm casting outside is that a problem?

[runfiverun]

you don't need a respirator.

to get started warm the mold up on the edge of the pot while the lead melts.
then fill one cavity for a couple of pours until the sprue breaks easily then do 2 then do 3.

even though your gonna tumble lube I would still buy a push through sizer from LEE.
and get some 45/45/10 lube from white label lube.
then lube-size-lube which means use about 1/4 the amount of lube you think you need,,, both times.

[wv109323]

The 6 cavity mold is a good choice, but you need a 20 lb. pot to take advantage of it. If you have a small pot you loose a lot of time refilling the pot with sprues and cold lead and waiting for the lead to get back to casting temp. I would recommend a hot plate to get the mold up to temp. before you start casting.
At plinking velocities,the lead does not have to be real hard to get good boolits. Tumble lubing is fine but an alternative is powder coating. My friend uses that bullet but he has found that he needs to size his bullets to his bore to get best accuracy.
Casting temperature needs to be around 700 degrees.
Good bullets have complete fill out at the corners and sharp edges. One of best areas to inspect is the corner at the base. This is the most critical area of a cast boolit. The base corner has to be crisp and consistent.
The mold can get too hot. The bullets will have a rough frosted appearance,bullets with wrinkles or not filling the mold means the lead or mold is not hot enough.
Fluxing can be wax or saw dust. Some use a paint stiring stick to flux with. I would wear eye protection and gloves. I wear a welding glove on my hand that is nearest to the lead. I hold the mold with my left hand left glove and use my right hand to add lead or flux,right glove. I would also wear heavy clothing.
If casting outside no respirator is needed.

[Mk42gunner]

You don't need a respirator, good ventilation is enough. Its not like you are going to boil the lead. Eye protection is a must however. Safety glasses at the minimum, and a full face shield isn't out of the question.

I wear cheap leather gloves when I cast. I found I lost way too much dexterity when I tried welding gloves. Maybe the newer TIG gloves would work, but the cheap ones do fine for me.

A hat, long sleeves, pants and boots, all non melt-able fabric or leather round out the casting ensemble.

Robert

[44man]

Casting is not dangerous if done right. I cast in a "T" shirt, no gloves but do wear glasses anyway. Been at it for about 72 years starting with sinkers. The worst is flux smoke or the dross skimmed off. Just ventilation and no worry about lead fumes.
A 6 cavity for a beginner is a little much but listen to guys here and you might be OK.
TL works for some and might be OK with slow loads, I don't like it and use Felix on all boolits, even TL designs but I shoot hunting loads only.
Any alloy must be shot to see what you get but plain old WW metal is my favorite. You can only learn by shooting.
The most important thing is to relax and don't get bent out of shape. It really is a lot easier then you think. I am surprised you have so many posts without pouring yet! You are in the best company here so you will be helped every step.

[Lead Fred]

Been casting for decades, outside no respirator, inside always. The weather keeps us indoors a lot.

Lube depends on what type of mould & grooves you get.

I use my rifle lube. Being the 357 shoots slower than the rifles. But then I use a single hole Elmer Keith hollow point mould
with fat deep lube grooves.
My plinkers are $30 a 500 @ a local gun show. Those 150gr SWC are cheaper than I can make them.

[tazman]

I would recommend the Lee 358-158-RF. It is an easy boolit to cast and shoots well in most revolvers. I tumble lube these with White Label X-Lox or 45-45-10(both work fine).
When you start with a Lee 6 cavity mold, make sure you get it warmed up before starting or you will have trouble opening the mold. I often only fill 2-3 cavities nearest the hinge when I begin, in order to make sure the mold is up to heat. You can progressively fill more cavities as the mold reaches heat.
When the boolits drop without cavities or wrinkles you are getting good boolits. Slightly frosty looking boolits are good.
Water dropping is usually not needed for 38 Special. If your lead doesn't have much tin or antimony in it, water dropping wouldn't help anyway.
I water drop for convenience more than for hardness. Getting the boolits fitted to your gun is way more important that hardness.
Read this link http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?21598-A-beginner-s-guide-to-revolver-accuracy
It will give you lots of information you need as a new caster for your gun.

[paraord]

400lbs of free lead??!?! Heck of a start thats for sure. Ive never tumbled lubed but lubrisizing is pretty easy for me. Anyways good luck with your impending addiction.
I cast and smelt outside. Never done inside.
For lube I use white label BAC for my 44 mag and I will be for my 357 mag when I get that mould in this week.

[Texantothecore]

Don't pick up a bullet with your bare hand. It'll burn you.
On the other hand, you may want to pick one up early and get it over with as everyone has done it once.

[country gent]

I wear glasses ( perscription saftey), leather gloves, you want a good fit and supple leather, heavy shoes or boots Leather is perfered, If Smelting or a big run a denium or leather apron to provide additional protection, and a long sleeved cotton or flanel shirt. You will be surprised at how uncomfoprtable even a small splash of lead is on bare skin. The problem with molten metals is they can rarley be "wiped" off, they stick and adhere to skin or clothing transfering heat to the burn. Some simple protective clothing and eye protection can be friend if something happens.

[tazman]

I wear glasses ( perscription saftey), leather gloves, you want a good fit and supple leather, heavy shoes or boots Leather is perfered, If Smelting or a big run a denium or leather apron to provide additional protection, and a long sleeved cotton or flanel shirt. You will be surprised at how uncomfoprtable even a small splash of lead is on bare skin. The problem with molten metals is they can rarley be "wiped" off, they stick and adhere to skin or clothing transfering heat to the burn. Some simple protective clothing and eye protection can be friend if something happens.


Excellent suggestions.

[Mauser48]

Good stuff here guys I appreciate it. Im still working on getting the lead. Im also getting 8 pounds of 700 x free so now I really need a lot of boolits! I know what I need to do, now I just need to do it. I will buy a lee 20 pound pot.

[Walter Laich]

welcome to the forum and keep the questions coming.
There are a lot of good stickies at the top that will give you a great deal of info. take the time to read them

[44man]

I never make a mess when I cast. I ladle cast so a 6 cav would be tough. I rarely even have a drop of lead on my bench.
Now a friend will have so much lead on his bench and floor, it looks like he drained the pot! I watched him pour and he never gets any ball or boolit filled out-wrinkle city. He has not cast here yet and does not listen anyway.
Another friend gets going OK but gets out of sync unless I stand over him and he can ruin a mold.
Some can't use both hands and when one moves, the other follows. Strange to see half the boolit pour back out when tipping a sprue.
I understand it can take time to get in the swing but once it happens, you will never buy another boolit.
I cast in the garage but smelt at the barn, outside, on concrete. I have a propane plumbers stove and a big cast iron pot and huge ladle.

[mdi]

Casting is not dangerous if done right. I cast in a "T" shirt, no gloves but do wear glasses anyway. Been at it for about 72 years starting with sinkers. The worst is flux smoke or the dross skimmed off. Just ventilation and no worry about lead fumes.
A 6 cavity for a beginner is a little much but listen to guys here and you might be OK.
TL works for some and might be OK with slow loads, I don't like it and use Felix on all boolits, even TL designs but I shoot hunting loads only.
Any alloy must be shot to see what you get but plain old WW metal is my favorite. You can only learn by shooting.
The most important thing is to relax and don't get bent out of shape. It really is a lot easier then you think. I am surprised you have so many posts without pouring yet! You are in the best company here so you will be helped every step.
After reading 44man's post, I have no need to say nuttin' ! Excellent advice. One small addition; read a Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook...

[Mauser48]

How much does tin really help with mold fill out? It looks to be pretty expensive on rotometals.

[toallmy]

Try casting without adding tin at first , good chance if your lead is form coww you may be fine without it . I can say from experience it is a lot easier to get a 6 cavity lee casting good by pre heating it , It can be frustrating getting the lee 6 cavity up to casting temp .

[swmass]

Best advice for the 6 cavity mold would be to get it nice and hot. Dip a corner in your lead pot for a little, then cast a good 5-6 pours and just dump those bullets back in. 2 cavity molds are easier to get nice bullets with if you're new IMO, but the 6 cavities crank out some serious volume and are built better than the 2 cavities. Just know if your bullets are coming out like **** then the mold is probably too cold.

Once your mold is nice and hot you can start dropping them into a water quench. I keep my lead pot on the right, a small cast iron skillet in the middle, and my big coffee can with water in it on the left. Sprue goes in the middle and then put back in the pot once I start getting low. The mold can get too hot but I have never had it happen with a 38 caliber 6 cavity. No matter how fast I cast with it. So I'd cast on the warmer side. Ask your buddy what the ingots are made of. I shoot that bullet with a full charge of w296 with no gas check and using straight water quenched wheel weights so I doubt you'll need to add anything to the lead.

Youll figure out what works for you over time. I'm still tinkering and Ive been casting for about 2 years.

As for lube, look up 45/45/10. fortunecookie45lc has a good video or 2 on youtube explaining it. That and a lee push through sizer is a nice cheap way to crank out a lot of bullets.

[44man]

I only add tin to WW metal when I add antimony for a special alloy. I have never needed it with straight WW's.
I cast a lot of ML stuff from pure and never have fill out problems. Seems only certain boolit designs will benefit from tin.
I used to get pure tin for $4 a pound but lost my supplier so the last I got was $14.
I have a big pile of 50-50 pure/tin I got free, old body solder. I seldom need it.
Try what you have first.
Temperature control is what you want.

[OS OK]

Don't pick up a bullet with your bare hand. It'll burn you.
On the other hand, you may want to pick one up early and get it over with as everyone has done it once.

My neighbor ambled over last summer wanting to borrow a tool, I was casting, had a big pile of .45's. He reached in and took one to look at…"Damn...that's HOT!" as the boolit flung over somewhere in the shop…'Clank'!…I was laughing so hard I could barely say…"Didn't take you long to look at it!"…his eyes were bugging a bit but he was grinning too.

OS OK

[44man]

I love it!

[reddog81]

Most of your questions have been answered but I'll give my $.02

How do you know when your bullets are coming out good? - When the bullets have sharp edges and a sharp base
Should they be water dropped? - Water dropping isn't necessary but can be used to harden bullets. I'd start with 38 special velocities and see how the bullets perform and go from there.
Does the mold ever get too hot while casting? - Yes the mold should be around 400 degrees. You will burn yourself if you touch the metal with your bare hands.
If so how will you know? - if the mold is cold your bullets will not fill out correctly. The only way to get good bullets is to have a hot mold
What do you guys like to Flux with?
How much does tin really help with mold fill out? - Some tin is helpful to get get complete fill out. If your lead is wheel weights you probably won't need additional tin
It looks to be pretty expensive on rotometals. -Take a look at the Swappin & Selling part of this forum. You can find cheaper tin and antimony.

I used Lee Liquid Alox at first but switched to powder coating shortly. Review the Coating and Alternatives part of this forum. There is a ton of advice over there.

[mdi]

I've heard it said, a few times, the only way to learn to cast bullets, is to cast bullets...

I too, have done the "ouch, that's hot dance". During an early casting session I dropped a "perfect" bullet out of my mold. I was so impressed/excited I picked it up, I think I still have scars on my thumb...

[Blackwater]

Mauser, every one of us were at one time exactly where you are now, but we didn't even have this great resource to help us learn. Mostly, I think most of us just went at it and observed what worked and what didn't over time. And really, that's the best advice I know to give you. Casting isn't always a thing that can be governed by a body of set rules, and often tends to be something we have to learn how to swing with. For example, the temp your lead is at is important, as is the temp of the mold when you start casting. What you're looking for is good, pretty sharp bases and corners and good fillout, with no wrinkles in your bullets. The wrinkles indicate either your metal or mold is too cool, usually. Could also be some zinc in your metal mix, which will make that whole pot almost never pour a good bullet. So be careful of the zinc stick on WW's when you're smelting, and keep them out of your bullet metal. You can save them, but I'd melt them in a separate and probably smaller pot for other uses, like fishing sinkers, etc.

Mostly, it's a process governed by your will and ability to observe the results you're getting. A little extra tin helps improve the fluidity of the metal and thus, helps fill the mold out a little better, but tin's expensive, and you many not always need it. Tin also helps an antimony bearing alloy such as WW's hold together better. My own experiments showed 4-6% tin really helped HP cast mushroom without breaking off the nose portions.

Mostly, I think it's just a matter of focusing on what you're doing and examining the results you're getting as you pour, and managing pot and mold temps more than anything else. The rest is the fine points, I think, and once you get those basics down well, then you can refine your techniques and find your preferences for your own particular needs. Some look as that as a burden, but in reality, it's a benefit because it puts control of your casting right in your own hands, where it really ought to be, IMO.

But ALWAYS be careful and NEVER put even a POTENTIALLY damp piece of lead in an already molten pot. That's how potfuls of extremely hot molten metal "explode," leaving behind what we call the remnants of a visit by the "tinsel fairy." And keep the temp of the pot below 1,000 degrees so it doesn't fume and release lead vapors into the air, and you'll be casting like a pro in no time. And the "secret" is all in simply paying attention to what you're doing, and learning what to do when something comes out less than ideal. Mostly, the answer will usually be fluxing and adjusting the temp of the metal and mold.

It'll take a little experience to really come to feel truly comfortable with it, but that time will pass quicker than you think, in all liklihood. Just be ever mindful of what you're doing, and keep safety in mind, and you'll be an "old pro" before you know it. And there's really no shortcut to it but some experience and attention to detail. Some are continually searching for shortcuts, but this is something that is unfriendly to shortcuts. And when you come to produce many perfectly formed and shiny projectiles, the pride you'll feel and the accuracy and satisfaction they'll give you will be something for which there really is no substitute. The better you get, the more "interesting" it will become, and the more nit-picky you'll likely get. Like most things, the more you do it, the more respect you'll have for the process, and the more you'll respect your own potential abilities. Good luck to you.

[Nick Quick]

As a novice in casting I have no advice for anyone except ONE. I don't care who you are and for how many years you've been casting when it comes to lead poisoning. The thing is real. There are quite few lead poisoning ways but casting wise the main danger is breathing lead fumes. (when tumbling fired brass, the danger is lead dust)
As a novice(both of us) I'd suggest you get a respirator or at least a mask. Until you will get enough experience and learn when to full around the smelting pot and when not, protect yourself with "something". Anything.
I offer this honest advice not because I read about it on internet but because I studied in school. I have a university degree in a medical field (details are unimportant) and I studied this issue at a time I never even fathomed I will get into casting my own. I've seen patients with lead poisoning and none of them were happy campers.
Now don't think that you will lose your teeth and hair from smelting few hundred pounds of WW. I'm not trying to scare you. But use common sense around a chemical known for it's toxicity. Experienced casters know the game and the experience over the years taught them to follow a certain routine and procedural habits when smelting. But you and me are new to this and we are still learning as the WW are melting one by one in the pot. We DO NOT have the experience others have in this matter.
So protect yourself and get a respirator or a face mask and try not to stay near the smelter and look into it watching how the WW melt just because it looks cool. At least do it until you won't be a rookie anymore and you will be an experienced smelter like the ones me and you are learning from on this place. And read. Read everything is posted on this forum. The amount of knowledge and skills I found here is unmatched by any book or treaty I ever read. And I'm an avid reader and I do my home works really well.
I wish you everything I wish for myself in our new hobby.
God bless

[reddog81]

I was under the assumption that lead doesn't emit fumes, vapor or any other breathable particles until the temperatures reach well over 1000 degrees Farenheit. I usually avoid the smelting pot because the smell is a atrocious. I'm pretty sure that's the smell isn't lead but rather all the other contaminants that are probably just as bad to breath as lead.

I always cast in the garage with a fan blowing out and smelt outdoors. I'm more concerned with the lead exposure on my fingers and hands. I make sure to scrub real well after casting or reloading with lead bullets.

[Seeker]

All great information here. I read every post. I like it here a CB. This fella ought to make out pretty good.

[mdi]

The "Lead Poisoning" scare has been discussed (and cussed) here many times. Plain old horse sense and educating yourself is the best way to avoid the "Metallic Killer", and as a fairly new caster, mebbe 25 years, I can point to zero instances of lead poisoning for casting bullets, either on line or personal experience/knowledge...

[44man]

You have to boil lead to get fumes. You do NOT need a respirator. If you are sloppy, gloves, etc might be needed. Fluxing can stink and if you use wax, it will light and burn clean but some make a lot of smoke. Wood smoke is not worse then smoking meat since it does not carry lead.
Whatever, you don't want to breath smoke. Don't breath the skim dust so a fan is a help. But nice clean lead in the pot only has heat to fear.