Boolits Key-holing

[Javelin Dan]

Hi everyone. If you happened to catch any of my previous posts, you'll know I'm a newbie (been handloading for about a year), and I struggled mightily at first, particularly with my .32 ACP loads. Since my last adjustment to those, I've probably fired 400-500 rounds with no failures to feed, fire, or eject. So for the first time since I started all this, I can relax and concentrate on becoming a better shooter, which I've been doing. Life is GOOD...except...


I'm noticing that some, maybe as much as 10% of my boolits are key-holing. For the record, I'm loading a 71 gr. RN FMJ over 2 gr. Of Bullseye for the .32 ACP, and a 100 gr. RN-FP coated lead bullet over 2 gr. of Bullseye for the .32 long. I'm wondering if it has to do with the barrel length of the guns I've been shooting recently. The .32 long Kimel “Guardian” has a barrel that measures 2” from the end of the chamber or 1 1/4” from the end of the frame (not sure how you measure such things), and the Kel Tec P-32 (ACP) I believe is advertised as a 2” barrel – in any case one of the smallest mouse guns on the market. Could this be part of the problem, or am I missing something? Could there be anything I'm doing in my handloading that could affect this? Would a different powder affect it? For the record, I had loaded the last seven rounds (the Kimel is a 7-shot revolver) of the last box of .32 long with the 71 gr. FMJ's to help clean the barrel. I noticed an obvious drop-off in recoil (of course), but I also noticed they seemed to cut cleaner holes in the paper – even cleaner than the same bullets do out of the Kel Tec. Is there a lesson I've yet to learn in there somewhere? I'm really not worried about it as my only ambitions are self defense and punching holes in paper. And I'm thinking that even though a key-holed boolit wouldn't penetrate very well, it would still ruin someone's day. Your opinions and feedback will be greatly appreciated as always.

[Sheldon]

Sometimes if the paper target is shot at freehanging without some sort of a firm backer, the paper will tear in a way that looks like a keyhole, when it actually is not. Was the target hanging free or taped/stapled to some sort of backing?

[JWFilips]

I have a JA-32 w/ 2" barrel FMJs keyholed like a bugger until I slugged the bore & found out I needed a .314" boolit That known I started shooting the 32 acp Ranch Dog FP sized .314"
Used to get them from Carolina Cast Bullets
All problems solved plus they are far superior for a CC weapon

[jimb16]

Normally key-holing is one of two problems. Either the bullet is a bit too small for the bore or the bullet isn't moving fast enough to stabilize. With short bullets, it is usually too big a bore. Longer bullets are usually the speed issue.

[Javelin Dan]

Thanks folks. In answer to Sheldon's question, the target was taped to a piece of cardboard...that was strangely enough, full of holes. The FMJ is a real nice Berry's Bullet with a flat point that I like very much that measures about .422" in length and .312" in diameter. In the .32 long I'm using a tech coated lead SWC "cowboy bullet" from Missouri Bullets that I also like that measures about .573" in length and .313" in diameter. I'll look into the Ranch Dog boolits and whatever else I can find to see what's available. If I don't have a bullet of a given size to "plunk", how can I otherwise check the bore size. The only precision instrument I have is a set of digital calipers.

The .32 ACP is already loaded fairly hot as the little Kel Tec kicks pretty hard and sends my brass off into the Twilight Zone. Lyman's 49th. says max load for this bullet is 2.2 gr. of Bullseye so I'm close, and all things I just mentioned considered, I hesitate to go any hotter. The max load for the long with that bullet is 2.3 gr. so again, I'm close. But I may bump that up to no more than 2.2 gr. just to see if that makes a difference. Kinda hate to hammer the Kimel too hard though, on it's best day it could never be confused with a S&W or a Colt.

[kentuckyshooter]

What experience i have had with key holeing was with my 45acp llama. During load development the lighter charges key holed on me. Turns out this pistol likes a near max load for best performance. Since you are near max there aint much room to play with the charge to see if it fixes the issue so i would sugest sluging your guns. Find some lead sinker thats close to the size of your barels. If needed u can bump then up with a hammer on a hard surface. The idea is you want them to be slightly to big to fit.

Lube the barrel and slug realy well and tap it threw the barrel. When ur done you should have and exact inpression of the rifeling. Mikes are recomended but depending on the calipers you might can make do. U need accracy to .0001 if you can. I know most caliper are advirtised as +-.0005. Also on the revolver check your cylender throughts and forceing cone.

Finaly check the stickies. Theres several good wright ups that will help you along much better than my quick and dirty explinations. Theres one in the pistol subfourum for setting up both a revolver(accracy with a revolver i belive its called) and one that details setting up for cast in a 9mm. I know its a difrent cartrage but the same principals apply. Also im sure in the stickys section you can find a how to on barrel sluging that will answer most of your questions.

Glad your finaly able to enjoy the fruits of you labor. Dont give up. Working out the little quirks can be enough to drive you mad at times but when it all comes togather theres theres no better felling.

[Javelin Dan]

Thanks kentuckyshooter! Great advice and I'll look into all you suggested. I love this forum! I can't imagine anywhere else I could go to find such a wealth of knowledge and experience without the attitude. Thanks again to all!

[opos]

I have pretty much avoided keyholing for all these years until an range trip a year of so ago....and it was a cardboard backer with the whole center shot out of it...also my targets ("man size" sillouette) had been folded and when taped on there was a couple of 'fold lines" that allowed the target to lay a bit off kilter to me...I shot about 25 rounds on a small target with no issues at all but the bigger folded target on a backer that was really blown out was the cause...I could almost see the 'pattern" of the blown out section with the key holed tears in a specific part of the target (right in front of the big hole in the cardboard)...Also there was about a 6" piece that extended below the cardboard backer and while I hate to admit to flyers..there were a few and they had also keyholed.

[Boolseye]

The keyholing I've seen has been from either poor bullet design or a bad bore. I suggest slugging the barrels and pulling a bullet from a loaded round to make sure you're in spec for that gun. Also check the bore to makes sure the rifling is good and the barrel isn't fouled up with lead or copper. Any of those things can cause keyholing. Regarding the powder, I thing BE is pretty well established for those two cartridges, though slower powders can help too. Perhaps try some unique or HP38 (I think I read a post once by a guy who was successfully loading 2400 into 32 ACP cases. I can't recommend that :-) Another benefit of slugging a barrel is that it can clean it out really well.

[Javelin Dan]

Opos and boolseye - all very interesting and good to know. l'll consider all this as I pursue the issue further. Thanks!

[Boolseye]

Those little peashooters can be surprisingly accurate! Good luck dialing it in.

[RIHP]

With small calibers try using less crimp. A heavy crimp can reduce bullet diameter causing bullet tumbling/key holing

[wv109323]

Also seat a bullet and pull it. See if your neck sizer is opening up the brass large enough that seating the cast bullet is not being sized down when seated. Your bullet may be .313", the neck expander may be .309. When you seat the .313 bullet in the .309" brass mouth,it may be sized down to .311 which could be to small for your bore.

[randyrat]

Bingo, I think wv109323 has just won the lotto. This happens more often than people realize, especially using softer lead.

Your expander button size is important, it only needs to be 2 -3 thousands smaller than your bullet size for lead, Jacketed needs 5-6 K for good bullet grip. Then there is the discussion of harder brass and softer brass, work hardened and annealed.

Alla.... we get HARD CAST which can help if sized correctly..

There is a good article on this in "Cast bullet notes From lasu.us" I believe....Just scroll to the bottom of any page on cast boolits and click and start looking, good stuff, lots of info in there