Leading in my Glock

[bazzer485]

I am new to boolit casting, but I am pleased with my results. Today I shot fifty rounds of a 180gr HP cast from a new NOE mold. They were all lubed sparingly with Lee ALOX in a small plastic container. Ten of them were fitted with gas checks and the rest were not. Unfortunately I managed to mix the gas checked rounds with the rounds that did not have them. Apart from the smoke they shot very well without any problem from my 10mm Glock. However, when I inspected the barrel for cleaning there was quite a lot of leading. It need Hoppes #9 to clean it all out. Has anyone any suggestions on reducing the leading? I know it is not recommended to shoot cast boolits from a Glock, but many people do.
Barry


Interests include Fly Fishing, Archery, Shooting and many more. British Military Veteran.

[spfd1903]

I have shot thousands of Lee TL 410-175-TC through a Glock 23. The stock barrel slugged at .400 and I sized the boolits in a Lee .401 push through sizer with two coats of ALOX. The original barrel has never leaded. I cast some with 20:1 alloy and some at 10:1 initially. I recently got a Glock 20 and also bought a Lone Wolf barrel. I have cast some 200 grain NOE boolits with COWW's and 2% tin. The first batch were sized to .401 and neither the stock barrel or the LW had any leading. I lubricated some with Ben's liquid lube and the rest with LBT soft blue. Do you know your groove diameter and the boolit diameter? The LW barrel shoots boolits in the 10 mm with much tighter groups. Is the Lead deposited throughout the barrel or just past the chamber?

[bazzer485]

I have shot thousands of Lee TL 410-175-TC through a Glock 23. The stock barrel slugged at .400 and I sized the boolits in a Lee .401 push through sizer with two coats of ALOX. The original barrel has never leaded. I cast some with 20:1 alloy and some at 10:1 initially. I recently got a Glock 20 and also bought a Lone Wolf barrel. I have cast some 200 grain NOE boolits with COWW's and 2% tin. The first batch were sized to .401 and neither the stock barrel or the LW had any leading. I lubricated some with Ben's liquid lube and the rest with LBT soft blue. Do you know your groove diameter and the boolit diameter? The LW barrel shoots boolits in the 10 mm with much tighter groups. Is the Lead deposited throughout the barrel or just past the chamber?

The boolits I am shooting are cast from alloy which approximates to #2. My bololits are sized to .401 though a Lee Sizer die. The lead is throughout the barrel. I have a Lyman 45 on its way and I'm thinking of trying a different lube . My powder is Power Pistol and I am using 7.1 grains.

[sigep1764]

Slug the barrel. Theres a sticky on it on the main page. You might find you need to size 402. What velocity are you getting with that load? Its my understanding that 10mm is a hot round. A different lube may be needed depending on your velocity. Also pull a loaded round after its been crimped and see if the brass is swaging down the boolit. The pulled boolit should still measure 401. If not, the brass needs to be expanded more.

[ioon44]

I shoot cast out of my Glock 22 using 6-2-92 alloy and Hi-Tek coating, no problems or leading.

[runfiverun]

put the gas checks on all of them.
lube size lube.
diameter and hardness matter in the grock barrels.
usually both need more.

[sigep1764]

Is that your bully in your sig pic?

[bazzer485]

Is that your bully in your sig pic?

No I'm afraid not. It reminds me of my hero, Winston Churchill the great British Bulldog!

[Landshark9025]

Can't speak to the 10mm, but in a 9mm HK with polygonal rifling, I found:
1. Fit
2. Alloy
3. Lube

Fit got me pretty close with about .0015 over bore. (.355 bore and .357 bullets). Sizing to .358 made things worse.

I tried to go "on the cheap" with a softer alloy, and with the right fit and a good lube (Lithi-bee or Ben's Red), it worked pretty well but there was still some leading. Upping the antimony content took care of the last of it. No where near the level of Lyman #2 though so I'd start with fit and a good quality lube if it was me.

One other thing I learned was to make sure your bore was "conditioned" prior to shooting and not bone dry. A patch with some Ed's Red seemed to work fine. I made that the last step in my cleaning process and it was always good to go for next time.

ps: In before BangerJim says "Just powder coat them and never worry about it again." :) :kidding:

[spfd1903]

Bazzer,
You did not mention this specifically, but did you tumble lube, size, and tumble lube as R5R mentioned in his post? Pure Alox applied in two coats has never caused leading in any of my fire arms, AND insuring the boolit was matched with the groove diameter.

[blikseme300]

Did you measure the CB's after sizing? All of my Lee dies were off by at least -0.001" as delivered. It is easy to open these dies out to proper size while also smoothing them out for easier sizing.

[Chris C]

Bazer485, are you shootin' those lead bullets through the original Glock barrel? The reason I ask, I had the same issue until I installed a KDM barrel. Never had a bit of lead in the barrel again. I'm pushin' a 180 gr truncated cone bullet with 4.3 gr Tite Group. As an added advantage, the original barrel didn't support the case all the way to the rim and I had to full length size the cases every time they were loaded. The KDM barrel supports the brass all the way to the rim.

[bazzer485]

Yep, it's a new original barrel, I lube with the Lee ALOX, seems to be plenty on the rounds. I don't care much for the smoke though. I haven't slugged the barrel because my pot is always full of alloy and I don't want to dump it our for just one or two lead slugs. I am new to casting, but my boolits look good. I am thinking of trying a epoxy coating rather than powder coating.


Interests include Fly Fishing, Archery, Shooting and many more. British Military Veteran.

[Landshark9025]

No need to dump the pot. Take a fired case, clean it out real well, then put a couple of fishing weights in it and hit it with a butane torch. Add another sinker or two to get it filled to the rim. Let it cool and use your kinetic puller to remove. Should be big enough to slug the barrel. If not a thump with a hammer will make it so.

Easy.

[bazzer485]

No need to dump the pot. Take a fired case, clean it out real well, then put a couple of fishing weights in it and hit it with a butane torch. Add another sinker or two to get it filled to the rim. Let it cool and use your kinetic puller to remove. Should be big enough to slug the barrel. If not a thump with a hammer will make it so.

Easy.

Thanks for the instructions!

[runfiverun]

that smoke is blow bye and is what is causing your leading problem.
when you pop the primer the boolit moves forward and the powder ignites.
[don't think so? load a boolit on just a primer and pull the trigger then knock it back out of the throat, and measure the inside diameter of the case]
as the powder ignites it is blowing around your boolit, gas cutting it and smoking you out.
diameter is your friend.

[Shiloh]

Changed the barrel on a Glock 22. After Kabooming two, I prefer the supported chamber. Others have had no issues with the GLock 22 at all.

Shiloh

[armexman]

Mr. 485,
When my LW barrel comes in for my Model 21 I will post my results with the Lee175 boolit in 10MM. I have 12 rounds loaded up with 10 grains ACC-7. I will start and continue with cast as I can't afford to purchase jacketed bullets. 100 jacketed bullets cost way more that a quality NOE mold;)

[Lloyd Smale]

yup, ditch the alox, cast them hard (at least 15bhn) and id even consider water dropping your bullets, use gas checks size to 401 and lube with a good soft lube. Alox will get you buy in a good revolver or even some semi autos like 1911s but for the most part that black guns are a bit of a challenge for it.
put the gas checks on all of them.
lube size lube.
diameter and hardness matter in the grock barrels.
usually both need more.