Best crimp for the 35 Remington??

[drw]

How do you crimp the 35 Remington using the RCBS 35 200 FN bullet. It has a crimp groove. Should I roll crimp into the groove? I have RCBS dies and Lee dies with the Factory Crimp die to use???

Thanks

[Mk42gunner]

I use the RCBS roll crimp for the .30-30, .35 Remington and .45-70. Never had a problem using them so I haven't seen the need to spend the money for extra crimping dies.

Robert

[RU shooter]

Try a few shots without any crimp. If your not getting any bullet set back in the mag tube or while loading into the chamber I wouldn't bother with the crimp at all .

Tim

[sandman228]

I use the lee factory crimp die for 35 rem . but that's just me

[mdi]

Use a plain old roll crimp and crimp into the crimp groove. K.I.S.S....

But the Lee FCD for rifle cartridges is an excellent tool.

[runfiverun]

just barely roll crimp into the groove.
if your nose is engraving the rifling then the crimp needs to be strong enough to remove the boolit when you unchamber a round.

it sucks to be 100 miles from home with a boolit stuck in the barrel.

[35remington]

I have always been of the opinion a roll crimp is kinder to a cast bullet than Lee's collet Factory Crimp die.

[EDG]

the Lee collet factory crimp die can be set to crimp as light as you want or as heavy as you want.
One of its advantages is it does not need the cases to be perfectly uniform in length.
A roll crimp die will not give consistent crimps unless the cases are both square and of uniform length. The Lee die is tolerant of less than perfect brass.

[shredder]

I use that bullet in my Marlin .35 Rem as well. I have shot them uncrimped, and crimped with a roll from the seating die and also with the Lee factory crimp die. I saw the most consistent results from the LEE factory crimp die. It may have been from the slightly uneven length of the cases giving the factory crimp a consistency advantage. At the time I made my notes I was of the opinion that the crimp was allowing a larger pressure buildup before bullet release and that was contributing positively to accuracy and consistent velocity. Now that I have been hanging out here for a couple of years I have learned much more, and am very much less sure of the WHY part.

[Andy]

Using the rcbs 35-200 and bullets sized .358 in M die expanded necks I was unable to get bullets to set-back over repeated top-end loads in my marlin 336 (with a full tube magazine measuring the last round) even when using no-crimp, so I would recommend trying that first.

That being said, I still put a tiny roll crimp on them (can barely see or feel it) just for insurance in case I do something else wrong so that I don't one day cause a set back bullet and miss it or leave a bullet in the chamber on extraction.

[HangFireW8]

The best crimp is the least amount of crimp that is still consistent with good feeding, chambering, and safety in the magazine (no boolit setback).

With a gas checked 30/30 it is often possible to prevent setback just by not sizing the entire neck, the constriction at the back of the neck is enough. This is a lot harder to do with 35Rem, though.

[Biggs300]

I reload for several different calibers that perform better with some degree of a crimp. For most, I have switched to Lee factory crimp dies. These calibers include 30-30, 358 Win and 45-70. I have RCBS, Redding and Lee dies (depending on caliber) but, EDG is correct, you can easily apply as light or heavy of crimp as needed with a Lee Factory Crimp Die. I've been so pleased with them that I have replaced a couple of full die sets with Lee dies.

[jlchucker]

I've used both methods, not only for 35 Remington but also all of my other Levergun calibers, including 44 magnum. For 44 magnum, though, I use a collet-style Lee factory crimp die because I don't want to resize everything in the crimping process. I don't really see any difference for 35 Rem, or my other calibers. I agree with Biggs300 comments, except that I haven't replaced all of my die sets. A bit off topic, but I'll share this experience I had just yesterday. I had loaded a box of 44 Specials about a year ago, and had crimped them (I thought) with my 44 magnum collet-style Lee crimping die, extended down as far as the adjustment would go. Yesterday I tried shooting a few of these through my Ruger Blackhawk. I ended up experiencing some jamming that I'd never experienced before. It turns out that I didn't have enough crimp, according to my gunsmith. The collet-type Lee crimp die in 44 magnum (at least mine) is too short for use in 44 special, and Lee doesn't make a 44 special collet crimp die. For that caliber I'll resort to the roll crimp method with my Lyman 44 special seating die.

[44man]

Crimp is no sub for tension and can't even hold primer pressure but the aid it gives to hold boolits from movement under recoil is needed. You can ruin case mouths without making the burn better.
I spent a lot of time testing crimps and never found a nit of difference from none to full profile.
I just fold brass to the bottom of the groove with a roll crimp and no more.
I never got my .35 Rem in a Marlin to shoot cast long ago but it would do well under 1" at 100 with jacketed Hornady bullets. many to 1/2". I did not know enough about boolit size to groove and the Lyman 200 gr was too small. I wish I still had that gun.