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Multigunner
04-01-2016, 06:32 PM
I recently found two very old Coleman lanterns in the storage shed. Don't know where they came from, probably belonged to my deceased brother.

One looks to be in pretty good shape, the other appears to have had the tank patched with a gas tank repair putty. I've used this sort of repair putty on a gas tank on my old wagon, so I know it holds up well under normal conditions but I hesitate to trust it with a pressurized tank.

Anyway I figure to clean these up and use the best parts from each to rebuild a working lantern.

Fact is I've never used these myself, and remember very little about how these work.
Any advice or sources of information on repairs and replacement parts would help a lot.

Kraschenbirn
04-01-2016, 06:45 PM
Run a forum search for 'Coleman Lantern'. At one time a collector/restorer of antique Coleman lanterns/stoves was a regular contributor to the forum and, as I recall, Coleman product identification/restoration/repair was the topic of several threads.

Bill

C.F.Plinker
04-01-2016, 09:32 PM
Try the Coleman Collector Forum.

RogerDat
04-01-2016, 10:43 PM
They still make globes for the old ones with sort of rounded globes, or at least they did a few years ago when I bought one for my red single mantle. The pumps use a leather pad to seal, a few drops of oil are required to keep that leather soft enough to seal. You have to push the pump all the way in and turn the to open the valve, pump with your thumb over the hole on the knob. Then with pump shaft all the way in turn to close. There is a little bent lever opposite the knob. When spun in a circle it pushes a rod with a needle tip up and down to clear the small opening that acts as a jet to help vaporize fuel.

The old ones I have used tended to flood easily and I would only open the main knob a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and then use the needle valve cleaner to restrict the flow of fuel until the gas generator tube gets hot enough to generate gas so the mantle burns white then I would turn the needle valve to let the gas flow. You can also use that needle valve to shot the light off instantly. Turning the main knob off will cause the light to slowly fade.

I don't know all the really old ones but I don't think the parts have changed all that much over the last 20 years or so. This site may be of use https://www.oldcolemanparts.com/resources/id.php

NY_Treeguy
04-01-2016, 10:51 PM
Here you go

http://www.oldtowncoleman.com/tech/rebuild.htm

I've rebuilt a couple using these instructions.

too many things
04-01-2016, 10:55 PM
big problem is finding the fuel
also ebay is your friend

RogerDat
04-01-2016, 11:07 PM
big problem is finding the fuel
also ebay is your friend Walmart or True Value Hardware may have the fuel. It has gotten expensive over the years but a gallon does last a long time.

CastingFool
04-01-2016, 11:15 PM
I have two double mantle Coleman lanterns, one was made in 1968, while the other one is much newer. My experience has been that if you let them sit unused for a long time, the generators seem to go bad, and must be replaced. I remember buying Coleman fuel for 99 cents on sale. Bought some fuel about 6 months ago, and it was like $10 per gallon. (I have 3 camp stoves, too)

Muskyhunter1
04-02-2016, 05:31 AM
I have real fond memories camping as a young lad and the sound of the Coleman lantern. Good luck in your refurb.

jcwit
04-02-2016, 09:25 AM
Coleman fuel? Here in No. Indiana we can still buy white gas at a special pump at gas stations, $4.99 a gallon.

BUCKEYE BANDIT
04-02-2016, 09:33 AM
Do you have to turn the crank on the side of the pump to reset to Zero[smilie=l:
Coleman fuel? Here in No. Indiana we can still buy white gas at a special pump at gas stations, $4.99 a gallon.

jcwit
04-02-2016, 02:39 PM
Do you have to turn the crank on the side of the pump to reset to Zero[smilie=l:

Nope, it's a standard fuel pump. Doesn't even have the glass measure on top of the pump!

aephilli822
04-02-2016, 03:45 PM
Try the Coleman Collector Forum.

This

or pm me for info

blackthorn
04-02-2016, 03:56 PM
Coleman lanternsColeman produced a number of products that burnedeither Paraffin, Naphtha (White gas), or Coal oil (Kerosene). Most, (with care) if not all Colemanappliances can also be run on Aviation or even unleaded Automobile gas. When we get into lamps and/or lanterns, thegenerators that control the fuel are sometimes interchangeable. Now, this can be either good or bad,depending. If you run Kerosene through aNaphtha lamp/lantern, the generator will have a very short life as Kerosene istoo thick to work properly and it burns dirtier. If, on the other hand you run Naphtha througha Kerosene generator, you will get a 6+ foot flame above your lamp/lantern andlikely burning fuel all around and on the appliance----NOT COOL! Even less cool if you attempt to light thelantern in a tent or near easily flammable material! Kerosene generators can be safely operated onNaphtha or non-leaded gas IF you are careful when lighting them. The trick is to hold a lit match alongsidethe generator and just crack the valve until you get a small amount of fuel cominginto the mantles and then quickly shut the flow off. The fuel will catch and burn off, preheatingthe generator. If you repeat this untilthe mantle begins to burn, (flare-up throwing light), you can then safely openthe valve fully. Those lamps/lanternsusing Kerosene generators originally came with a small metal cup that fits overthe generator stem. You fill the cupwith alcohol (or gas [not recommended]) and set it on fire. As it is almost burned out, the generatorstem becomes hot and you can open the valve and the Kerosene works very well. The little needle “rod” inside the generatoris intended for cleaning the tiny orifice where the fuel comes out. It is not meant to be used as a fuel controldevice but I guess it will work as one. My concern there would be that it would shorten the useful life of thegenerator. The proper generator for yourlamp/lantern is identified on the metal collar below the glass (newer models)or by a stamp (ink) on the bottom of older models. Also, at least on old lamps/lanterns, thereis a trade-mark with the words; “Sunshine of the night” and to the right of thattrade-mark will be a two digit number which indicates the year the lamp/lanternwas manufactured.

higgins
04-02-2016, 06:47 PM
I know gasoline is cheaper and more readily available, but genuine Coleman fuel is the only thing I've ever used in Coleman appliances because it has what must be almost unlimited shelf life, will not go bad, etc. I say this because last year I finished a can I bought after 9/11 (about the extent of my preps). Even if the appliance is called a multifuel and OK for unleaded gasoline, I'm still using Coleman fuel. A friend has a can even older than that came from his late father's gear that still smells OK.

Back in the 60s when I was in Boy Scouts, the scoutmaster would stop at the local Amoco station and fill up a gas can with Amoco premium gasoline for use in the troop appliances. We used it up quickly enough that shelf life was not a factor.

marlin39a
04-02-2016, 07:32 PM
I have several from the 50's. Usually a generator replacement and a new gasket on the fuel cap will get it running. Nothing like the sound of of pressure lantern on a warm night.

jcwit
04-02-2016, 08:18 PM
I live in Amish country and have been around Coleman lanterns & stoves most of my 72 years.

I've yet to see a lantern or stove that will burn both Coleman Fuel/White Gas and Kerosene. They either burn one or the other. Most of the kerosene lanterns use either alcohol or white gas to generate the generator. This is not needed with lanterns that use Coleman Fuel/White Gas.

Now there what is called "Dual Fuel" lanterns/stoves, they burn either Coleman Fuel/White Gas or Unleaded Gas. Never ever use leaded gas, not only will it release lead fumes into the area you are in but it will shortly destroy the generator.

jonp
04-02-2016, 08:24 PM
I have several from the 50's. Usually a generator replacement and a new gasket on the fuel cap will get it running. Nothing like the sound of of pressure lantern on a warm night.

No lie. I cruised timber in Southern Utah one summer and lived in a tent. Nothing like the hiss of the lantern reading in a sleeping bag out in the middle of no-where at 7,000 ft after a full day.

Multigunner
04-02-2016, 09:36 PM
Well heres what I figured out so far. These seem to be either 220 orb 228 models from the 70's or late 60's.
They have cylindrical glass.
The bails aren't the same. One may have come from another model that has the much wider shade.

The one that looks the best has very degraded pump leather with a lot of small splits. It was as hard as a boot heel and didn't want to suck up any oil.
The inside of the tank looks very crusty and the gasket on the cap is shot from the looks of it. The rim of the filler opening looks badly nicked.
The cap has a brass screw in the center.
I haven't opened the other one up yet. The cap on that one doesn't have the screw.

I found a tutorial on converting these to burn kerosene. I may try that later on if I can get one to pump up and hold pressure.
The tank with the putty patch might work out better if I silver solder a patch instead. Maybe solder a penny over the hole. I have some Hi force 44 solder that has amazing holding strength. I'm pretty sure it can handle the pressure safely enough.

Main reason I'd want these is for use in storms and power outages, which we've had more than our share of up here in the mountains. I've used kerosene lanterns and candles many times in one case for several days after a monster windstorm wiped out the power lines across much of the state. Even underground cables were broken by that one. A huge split opened up in a road. Charter cable was knocked out here for two weeks.

MtGun44
04-02-2016, 10:59 PM
Parts are hard to find, but if you get them working, use only "latern and stove fuel" or genuine Coleman
fuel in them to keep it in good shape. Using unleaded gas gunks up everything unless you change the fuel
regularly, and nobody ever remembers, plus hard to get the last bit out an it turns to tar in a year or two.
Lantern fuel is made from naturally stable fractions distilled off of petroleum, where car gas is cracked
from longer chain molecules. The natural stuff has not changed in millions of years, but the cracked
stuff has chemically reactive ends where it was broken down, and wants to join back up, and will in a
year or two, into tarry guck. Stay away from car fuel except in an emergency and then get it out of
there ASAP. Also, car fuel has additives which will deposit inside the generator as the fuel vaporizes,
gumming it up until it quits working.

Get a new pump seal, use a big screwdriver to take out the brass foot valve at the bottom of the pump and
clean up the ball check valve and then put it back in. The generator is the center brass tube up between the
two mantles, a brass nut hold it in. Pull it out, clean up and see if the tiny wire jet cleaner is still intact. The
little wire handle on the side pushes this jet cleaner up and down to clear the jet in the tip. Other than that,
there isn't a lot to them if the tank cap seals and the pump will seal when screwed down. Try soaking the
pump leather in motor oil, don't flex until it has been soaking for a day or two, might come back.

As to operating it, you do know that
you unscrew the pump knob to turn the square internal shaft and unscrew the bottom valve on the pump. This
puts the bottom check valve into play, so you pump up pressure, with thumb sealing the end hole. Then screw
down the pump handle to seal - the foot valve won't hold except just for pumping. Flip the wire handle through
360 to clean the jet, and put on new mantles, then light them and let burn to ash. Then just barely crack the
main valve and light the thing. The mantles will bulge out nicely and after the popping and stuff is done, as the
generator gets hot enough to let ONLY gaseous fuel get through it, you can open the valve all the way and
there will be SERIOUS light.

I would not change to kero, dirty, needs alcohol or gas to get enough heat to generate since kero is harder to
vaporize.

Bill

aephilli822
04-03-2016, 04:16 PM
Parts are hard to find, ...
Bill

https://www.oldcolemanparts.com/

not really

https://www.oldcolemanparts.com/resources/tech.php

and this site has all the instructions you need

get a couple pump leathers and cap gaskets, they are cheap. spare generators are available there too. The Coleman Collectors Forum has instructions on how to rebuild the generators if needed

I use Coleman fuel in my Coleman 237 Kerosene Lantern, just have to know the starting procedure ( many early lamps that used white gas had to have the generators preheated)

http://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/what-fuels-can-be-used-in-a-237-7607816?highlight=fuel+237&pid=1288725696

Peerless mantles are brighter than modern Coleman ones

David2011
04-03-2016, 04:47 PM
The tank with the putty patch might work out better if I silver solder a patch instead. Maybe solder a penny over the hole. I have some Hi force 44 solder that has amazing holding strength. I'm pretty sure it can handle the pressure safely enough.



Agreed, remove the repair and solder new metal on. BUT NOT A PENNY! For starters, unless you get a very old one they're made of zinc and just have a copper finish. Also aesthetically unappealing. You can go to a hobby shop that caters to radio control or trains or a place like Hobby Lobby or Michael's and get K&S brass sheet in small quantities. If you know someone in the auto body repair business where you cold get a piece of discarded body panel, even a little steel from a car hood or fender cold be shaped and soldered on.

David

aephilli822
04-03-2016, 06:12 PM
you could probably get a good fount for less than the cost/effort of repairing that one

Petrol & Powder
04-03-2016, 08:43 PM
I've always preferred kerosene fueled lanterns and stoves. I have an old Optimus lantern that runs on kerosene but the operating principal is the same. Fuel is pushed out of the tank by air pressure, the liquid fuel is forced into the gas generator where it is vaporized and then the vapor is passed through a jet and mixed with air. That air/fuel mixture is passed through a nozzle where it is burned. The nozzle is surrounded by a mantle and the heat from flame is used to heat the generator in a self-sustaining loop (once you get it going ;) !).

Most of the Coleman stuff runs on white gas but some of the Coleman stuff can be converted to run on kerosene (requires a different generator and jet) The great thing about the Coleman stuff is it is so ubiquitous in North America. Parts are still available for a lot of the Coleman products.

I love those old pressurized fuel gadgets. Brings back good memories.

aephilli822
04-03-2016, 09:48 PM
Did we ever find what model they are? I inherited an Aladdin pressure kerosene or gas (adjustable air valve) lantern and it works great.

Nose Dive
04-04-2016, 02:20 AM
Believe JCWIT is dead on about fuel.... Note:

if you have a kerosene unit,,burn Kero...no gas or Coleman fuel of any type.

If you have a 'gas' unit...burn Coleman fuel, (or 'camp fuel), 'white gas' (if you can find it) and last resort...reqular unleaded fuel from the gas station.

True 'white gas' was simple straight run gas with little or no additives. *(we 'added' lead to the gas in the old days) I don't think you can 'buy' any leaded fuel anywhere any more as it is 'illegal' to make and sell. Yep... your tax dollars at work. And, as mentioned above, you are adding LEAD to the atmosphere in your tent that you and your family are breathing.... not good. I haven't seen any 'white gas' at any station in years. I know BP, Valero, Shell and Chevron don't market it to the public in the USA at gas stations for your car. You might get some overseas as that is the last time I saw it.

I do not recommend 'ethyl' unleaded fuel in a Coleman unit of any type. Yes,,,it has a higher rating at the pump, but alot of this is due to the 'additive package' of chemicals added to the gasoline at the blending station...and I believe you are just adding that to the generator's work to burn off and gunk up the unit. And, regular is cheaper.

Here in Texas,,,at ACADEMY stores you can find "CAMP FUEL" and Coleman fuel.... this is what I recommend. REGULAR gas at the pump DOES HAVE ADDITIVES in the mix....ALL gasoline in the USA does.

If you have a pocket full of money and can buy it, JET A fuel is good as it is good and dry. BUT....this is for KERO units....not gas units...

Again, no Kero in gas units, no gas in Kero units. I like to have fun while camping. ER visits are not considered fun in my book.

In Korea, buddies swore by mixing Jet A and diesel for the fuel heaters in their tents. THESE ARE NOT COLEMAN UNITS...go to Sportsmansguide and look up 'heaters' and you will see them. They work, work on diesel and guys told me they mixed 50-50 diesel and Jet A to make the burn cleaner and made the tent a lot less smelly versus straight diesel. I own two of these 'wood & hydrocarbon' heaters and they do work and are a bit smelly on straight diesel. They hook up to old 'jerry cans' and PUT OUT HEAT. Next time i fire one up, i am going to try the 50-50 trick and see if it works as the old Korea guys tell me.

Nose Dive.

Cheap, Fast, Good. Kindly pick two.

Duckiller
04-06-2016, 04:53 PM
Really old Coleman lanterns that have been restored reportedly have sold for over $100.00 on E-Bay. They are not that difficult to fix. First replace the generator. Should fix most problems.

Mytmousemalibu
04-06-2016, 06:12 PM
I collect & restore Coleman lanterns, lamps, stoves and other gas pressure appliances and other brands. I probably have at least 50 Coleman lanterns & lamps alone!

Never use a fount that has putty repairs and or known rust! It is a pressure vessel with very volatile fuel and air which could be a serious disaster.

Contrary to what has been said, an original kerosene burning model will run just fine on coleman fuel but it will require that you preheat the generator. It will not be quite as bright as the jetting is a little bit smaller to account for the higher BTU content of kero and is slightly underfueled on gas. You can also fairly easily convert most gas models to kero but it requires some parts and perhaps a little modding to make perfect. A great many of us on the Coleman Collectors Forum have a fondness for the kero models and the single mantle models. Most us us are the tinkering type and enjoy the process of firing up a kero. The older pre air/fuel pick-up models and milspecs require a kero like starting procedure. Unless you have no other option, I would avoid using regular pump unleaded in any gas pressure appliance. The additives will shorten generator life and the gas of today goes bad in short order and as most of it has ethanol, many coleman products had a coating in the fount that the ethanol will dissolve which causes a whole host of other problems. If anyone has any GPA or wick burning appliance questions, I will be glad to help!

Old Coleman Parts is an excellent place to get parts, Fred will take good care of you! Highly recommend the CCF forum too!

historicfirearms
04-06-2016, 09:13 PM
Aviation gasoline is still leaded, the only commonly available grade is 100LL (low lead). I would not use it in a Coleman appliance. Also Jet fuel, most common is Jet-A, will come in two flavors. With, or without a fuel system icing inhibitor, which is commonly called Prist. Most smaller airports only have pre mixed Jet A with Prist. Most large airports probably will not sell you Jet fuel if you walk onto the ramp with a five gallon can.

Duckiller
04-06-2016, 11:40 PM
Union 76 sells racing gas at their refinery. It is leaded and you have to sign papers that you won't use in a street car. Also it is NOT cheap.

TXGunNut
04-07-2016, 12:46 AM
Around here Academy sells Coleman parts for models made in the last 20-30 yrs. Slowly transitioning to propane; more time for doing what I went off the grid to do.

Mytmousemalibu
04-07-2016, 01:34 AM
For gas burning GPA's, stick to actual Coleman fuel or the slightly cheaper Camp Fuel like Academy has if at all possible. As mentioned, Avgas is still leaded here for the time being. So is most racing gas, but there are some unleadeds but what else is in them? I would seriously stick with white gas for anything used with food, like stoves. I know white gas is getting expensive but it really is the best thing for the gas models. Absolutely true about the anti-ice/anti-microbial additives in jet fuels. Not something you want to be breathing in lots of or again, near food. You might check with smaller local petroleum dealers for fuels. I get my high quality, water clear 1K Kero from one such place. I haven't asked but pretty sure they can get me white gas too. For a few gallons here & there, the Academy/Crown brand camp fuel is hard to beat.