Here's my casting plan.

[sawinredneck]

Now kindly tell me where I'm going right or wrong please!
This casting is all new to me and honestly I've always just avoided it because it was so cheap to buy someone else's bullets, those days are long gone! I didn't want to have to mess with gas checks and having to know what loads would need them and what loads wouldn't, seem's PC'ing has solved most, if not all of those issues?
I watched a video on youtube, a member here, on how to do this inexpensively, and he did alright, but I think he went a bit above and beyond on a couple of things, that I'll touch on as I go.
I'm thinking a Lyman 10lb cast iron pot, a 110v hot plate, single burner, and a cheapie toaster oven, for backing PC as my base tools. In the video he melted, fluxed, then poured ingots, just to melt the ingots again in another pot and pour from there? I've been to a fishing forum "lead pour" a time or two and we just poured straight from the original pot, am I missing a crucial part here?
Then a Lyman, probably ladle to pour with. I've got more than enough angle iron and scrap steel to easily make ingot molds for anything left over, I don't see the point in buying one.
Molds I'm thinking about,
This first one I'm iffy on, hopefully I've got it right, the Lee TL356-124-TC, now, as I understand this, it will work in .38/357 as well as 9mm fairly well, and I don't plan on sizing anything out of this mold.
Second one is the Lee TL401-175-SWC, this will be for my Colt DE in 10mm. I don't plan on sizing this one either.
Third, and last for now, the Lee C309-150-F, this will be for my LR-308/AR-10, I plan on sizing these at .309" for this rifle. I really like the 150gr rounds in this rifle, and that's what it's sighted in for, as well I really don't think I'm going to run into anything in KS that's going to need much more?
Later I hope to add a .243 mold to the family, but my son is going to have to shot more than one round a session before I get to concerned, he's only 11 and takes after his mother, unfortunately.
Then a Cool-Wip container/plastic tub, some airsoft pellets, HF PC, a couple of cheap cookie sheets and waxed alum foil.
So, what are my fatal flaws, what are the minor mistakes and what am I over looking? I'm trying, so please be gentle!

[Echo]

Well - I haven't used a ladle for about 50 years, so can't comment on that aspect. Therefore my suggestion is to buy a Lee 10-pounder bottom pour and do it that way. Making angle iron ingot molds makes sense, if you have the material and talent, but make sure you leave some draft so the ingots will fall free. But it is recommended that you do NOT smelt in your boolit-casting furnace. See if you can find a turkey fryer at the Goodwill store - I bought mine new for about $35, as I remember. That and a Goodwill cast iron Dutch oven and you are set for life. I can smelt 40+ lbs in my setup.
Your suggestions for boolit molds makes sense. The only one I sorta question is the 150 for the AR. I doubt if you will be able to drive them as fast as condom bullets, so different POI will probably emerge. I would limit the PB boolits to a max of 1800 fps, but YMMV. I have no experience with PC'ing...
You mention PC'ing your boolits. I suggest that you consider TL'ing the pistol boolits - easy enough, little hassle, and has worked fine for me. I haven't TL'd any rifle boolits yet, so can't comment on that.
Other's may chime in and correct, or add to, my comments.

[jcren]

The purpose of double melting is first to blend and clean a large quantity of lead to achieve a clean consistent alloy. If using alloy from a reliable source, don't worry about that now. I would not try that tl bullet in a 9mm as a beginner. Tumble lube designs are fine in most cases, but can be a headache in a 9. Just get the standard groove version of that mold and pc or tl anyway. You will need to size with pc because it will add diameter, but Lee push thru sizers are cheap and fast to use. With a gas rifle, you won't be generating jacketed velocity without checks, even with pc, so may need a heavier bullet to operate the gas system. Ust the little search box in the upper right to search for cast in ar10 and you should find what you need. Get an oven thermometer because the dial will probably be off, and he sure to use nonstick foil or parchment paper. Now give it Heck, and ask as needed.

[sawinredneck]

OK, learned some new things! I "assumed" that with PC'ing I could still get some decent velocity, seems I was wrong, I'll look at some heavier grain loads now, perhaps a 180grn?
I'll do the search, thanks for the tip on that!
jcren: I chose that particular mold as, from my research at least, it's pretty happy in 9mm and .38/.357 loads. I don't really care about the 9mm, but my buddy, that supplied all the lead (hint, hint) would like some 9mm rounds as well! Trying to do the "bang for buck" thing here as I'm poor!
I'm good with TL on the 9mm and 38's, and actually now that I think about it, I'm not going to be but around 1,100fps or so on the 10mm loads, so I might not need to PC them either?
I initially planned to use gas checks, until I priced them! I made a punch to get them out of alum cans, but my forming die is falling short so far, that's why I was looking at the PC process.

[sawinredneck]

Just to add, all the lead came from vials discarded by a nuclear pharmacy, I've got a bunch! So the quality of lead isn't a question, the hardness will be.

[jcren]

38 is very forgiving and should work with most any bullet that is sized correctly for the gun, at least .357 but .358 is often better which is much more standard in 38's than 9's which can run from .353-.358. The problem with 9's and tl style bullets is the case wall thickens quickly and tends to squeeze the thin grooves of a tl bullet resulting in a undersized bullet and bad accuracy and leading. Just be sure you expand the cases and that the bullet stages big enough after loading and you shouldn't have any problems. The biggest advantage of pc is it is clean. Cleaner to load, cleaner to store, cleaner to shoot. It will allow somewhat higher velocity, but not full bore loads.

The radiation pigs will be fairly pure lead and you will probably want some tin to improve castability and may want to harden it up some for the rifle.

[sawinredneck]

jcern, do you have another suggestion for a mold that would work? Or do you think going with two molds is a better plan?
I'm a total newbie at this, so please don't take my questions as being snarky, I ask a lot of questions so I can do things right.

[warf73]

I'm thinking a Lyman 10lb cast iron pot Depending on your molds, are you set on ladle pour? IF not get a lee 20lb bottom pour to keep up with the 6 cavity molds.(Assuming you buy 6 cavity), a 110v hot plate, single burner, and a cheapie toaster oven, for backing PC as my base tools. In the video he melted, fluxed, then poured ingots, just to melt the ingots again in another pot and pour from there? When I'm melting down lead I flux atleast 2x unless it's really dirty lead then I'll go 2x more. I've been to a fishing forum "lead pour" a time or two and we just poured straight from the original pot, am I missing a crucial part here?
Then a Lyman, probably ladle to pour with. I've got more than enough angle iron and scrap steel to easily make ingot molds for anything left over, I don't see the point in buying one. If you can make your own ingots that's always nice.
Molds I'm thinking about,
This first one I'm iffy on, hopefully I've got it right, the Lee TL356-124-TC, now, as I understand this, it will work in .38/357 as well as 9mm fairly well, and I don't plan on sizing anything out of this mold. I can help you on a mold for 38/357 see below.
Second one is the Lee TL401-175-SWC, this will be for my Colt DE in 10mm. I don't plan on sizing this one either. I can help you on this mold also see below.
Third, and last for now, the Lee C309-150-F, this will be for my LR-308/AR-10, I plan on sizing these at .309" for this rifle. I really like the 150gr rounds in this rifle, and that's what it's sighted in for, as well I really don't think I'm going to run into anything in KS that's going to need much more? Never know LOL I have shot deer in western Kansas with a 460WBY and a small 350gr RN.
Later I hope to add a .243 mold to the family, but my son is going to have to shot more than one round a session before I get to concerned, he's only 11 and takes after his mother, unfortunately.
Then a Cool-Wip container/plastic tub, some airsoft pellets, HF PC, a couple of cheap cookie sheets and waxed alum foil.
So, what are my fatal flaws, what are the minor mistakes and what am I over looking? I'm trying, so please be gentle!

I put some answers and question in BOLD up above. I also live in Wichita and would be more than happy to help you out in your venture into casting IF you want.
I do charge a fee for helping/teaching, my fee is normally a glass of Iced Tea or Water an hour. Hope that isn't too expensive of a fee but a guy does need his liquids :)

As for the molds most all my pistol molds are 6 cavity Lee and several 4 cavity Lyman so IF you want help I would be more than happy to loan you a few molds. I have 38/357 Lyman 158gr SWC mold, and a 38/357 Lee 150gr RN (I use this exclusively now in my 357mag) that you could barrow. For the 10mm I also have that mold in a 6 cavity that is use for a pair of 40S&W's that could also be loaned out (the mold not the guns). I would have to check my molds for 9mm mold, I do cast for my girlfriends 380acp but it's a 100gr boolit. The rifle mold not sure I have anything that light but will check.
You might have to size the boolits for your gun as all guns aren’t created equal. Also you are talking PC’ing which will make the boolits larger. I’ve got push threw dies for everything you posted above.
The loaner molds will let you know if your gun likes the mold
As for powder coating goes it's great in pistol but never done anything for rifle YET, for your handguns mentioned above it will work out great.
Here is an example of 150gr RN for the 357.

164522164523

This is in my wheel gun after 150 rounds using the boolits above and mild charge of CFE Pistol.
164524


I'm not putting you on the spot for my help, it's just an offer nothing binding. You can see from my other posts I like to help when I can. I work the graveyard shift at a local aircraft company and sleep most day’s right after work but up and going around 2pm till I head off to work again at 11:30pm.

Shoot me a PM if you want help or need anything.

Warf

[runfiverun]

okay.
take this one step at a time.
there ain't no way your gonna get everything all at once and even if you do some of it will be wrong.
the first thing your gonna need to do is learn how to cast.
simple really: pour lead in a mold and repeat.
put some type of coat or grease stuff on them
now cram them in a case and shoot away.


yep, simple nuff alright.
till sumthin don't work.

[jcren]

No problem. Guys answered my questions and got me going so I just try to pay it forward. The .356 molds may drop too small if you don't pc. My Lee .356 mold drops .356-.357 with wheel weight/pure lead. My 38 will lead like crazy with a .356 bullet. But I powder coat them and size to .358 and hey run in my 38, 380 and a friend's compact 9. I like the lee 356-120 tc single lube groove for pc, but a lot of guys use the .358-125 rf in 9 and it is excellent in 38/357. In fact that may be my next mold. One mold will work for both as long as you can get the size you need, another plus of pc. Mind you this is just my opinion, and you know how that goes!

[OS OK]

New Casters…Lets Blend Pb & make INGOTS (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?301055-New-Casters%85Lets-Blend-Pb-amp-make-INGOTS) … First learn how to blend the lead correctly…you don't do that in your pot.

Start with the Lee 20 pound/bottom pour…it's cheap and will last…use a reliable thermometer.

Stop woyring about 'speed' primarily…learn to cast/size for the particular weapon…speed is secondary to fit, fit, fit!

Use the 'search function' on this site.

[mdi]

So that you get fewer "personalized opinions" read this; http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

I use a smelting pot and a casting pot because in my smelting pot, I mix alloys to get a hardness I wanna try for my bullets, and to make sure only clean alloy is melted in my casting pot; tiny specks of dirt can cause drips in the valve and I want no "extras" in my bullets. I would question if a hot plate is hot enough to melt lead, check the wattage...

I'd say figger out what you want from your cast bullets; hunting? Paper only, competition, rocks/cans, self defense? Also a two cavity is easier to learn mold temperature control, an important factor when casting. A long 6 cavity may have hot spots or cool areas and result in one or two cavities producing good bullets and some cavities dropping duds. You won't make as many bullets as with a 6 cavity, but enough that you won't get frustrated (like casting with a single cavity mold. BTDT!).

I have a favorite mold for my 9mms, .38 Specials, and .357 Magnums; Lee's 124 gr. RNFP. Depending on which gun I'm going to use it in I size .357" to .359" and use 45-45-10 or Speed Green as a lube.

I've often heard "The only way to learn to cast bullets is to cast bullets". Read up on casting/loading/shooting lead bullets (Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook is excellent), and just melt some lead and pout it into the mold. If you only get 2 good bullets outta 10, cool. Just put them back into the pot and tell us you cast 9 outta ten keepers...:mrgreen: :mrgreen:

[sawinredneck]

Warf: Thank you! that is a most generous offer and I will most likely take you up on it! I'm in Rose Hill FYI and typically sleep 6am-10am, so your times work fine for me. Depending on what you do in aircraft, I might be able to help you out more than a glass of water or tea even!

I'm half crippled up, broken back, so large sums of money are scarce around here, I sold some tools and have a bit of a windfall right now, that's the reasoning for trying to get set up as best I can in one effort, as well as cut down on shipping costs.

Speed, that isn't as much of a concern as making the rifle function, the reason I was asking about going with a heavier 30cal mold, like 180grs. As long as the gun functions, I'm good.

The purpose of all of this, well, it's been a while since I bought bullets, I bought a large volume of the 10mm back in the 90's and hadn't priced them in a while. I realized I can buy the molds for less than I can buy a single box of bullets and with money being tight, it makes sense to make my own now. They will mainly be used for plinking, but I'd like to be able to use the .357, 10mm and 30cal for game if the time came.

All of the molds I'm looking at have been two cavity, I've poured enough fishing sinkers to know my limitations and see the ease of the smaller molds. I've got nothing but time, so it has little value. I can sit in the drive, watch the idiot box in my garage and make bullets.

I hope that helps clear some things up.

[warf73]

sawinredneck,

Rose Hill is just 10 mins away maybe 15 on a bad day, I'm near 47th & Seneca. I'm a Boeing sell off aircraft worker that should narrow it down for ya. I'm a composite machinist been cutting carbon fiber for the past 20 years 19 of them have been on 3rd shift. So something stronger than tea would be great after we get done playing with the hot metal.

I understand the situation about the money; we can ease that with the loaners for sure till you can get what you need/want. I just finished up casting 35lbs of the 150gr RN for the 357 so that mold will be open for 3 months maybe 4 at the most. If you want to use one of the SWC molds you can use it till you’re ready to buy your own, no rush on them.

The 10mm with the 175gr Lee mold will be easy and straight forward, its matter of slugging the barrel and sizing to what is needed. That mold will be open about mid-April and once you get it should be no issue to keep hold of it for 5 or 6 months if you need it that long.

I've got a few 30 cal molds that we can use, never tried any of them in the FAL but have in a few bolt guns. One might work out good in your AR platform; the mag and feeding will be the issues if we have any.


The 6 cavity Lee molds really don't weight all that much, it's just a matter of getting you set up so you are comfortable while casting. Granted they do weight more than the Lee 2 cavity molds for sure.

When you’re ready to smelt down your alloy let me know I can bring over my smelting setup. Not sure how much lead you have to melt down but we can make it all clean and in ingot form in a short order. My smelting pot can do 50lbs runs with little issue.

Warf

[sawinredneck]

Thanks warf! I will be in touch for sure! I think I've got about 150lbs of the vials, to give an idea. I don't need the 10mm anytime soon at all, I've still got 200-300 left and don't shoot it much.
As I said, I've got nothing but time, so I figure I can crank out a few hundred in a day or two of each, once I see what works. I'll have to shoot the 308 so I've got some empty brass, but that's no biggie.
I'm very familiar with the lack of spirit for sure! I interviewed for CMF, back when it was still Boeing, they wanted me to run a 7 axis mill that they planned to get three more and crew up on. It didn't take long to figure out I didn't like them, they didn't like me and we both walked away pretty happy with our choices that day! I spent 13yrs in the smaller shops, Perfekta, Southwest mfg, Wichita tool etc. until I got bored cutting Ti on five ax day after day, after day! I walked away to go do concrete work! Yeah, I'm not real bright sometimes!
Anyway, thanks again for all the help!

[warf73]

sawinredneck

Small world indeed because I'm in the CMF been here since 96. Not sure when you were here but the mill shop now has 5 machines. When I hired on there was 3, added the 4th in the later 90's and the 5th machine 08.

Seen several good people go over the years, most everyone from the 90's are gone now only two left Roy and myself. Several went to IPB 4 and there is only Mike and Tom left down there, if any of those name sound familiar.

Just yell when you’re ready.

Warf