New Lee 430-310-RF?

[S.B.]

Got the new mold todays post and got to casting and then sizing but, gas checks don't stay on bullets and some times stick in the sizing die? On the few that the check stays on, it will spin with fingers. Sizing for my Ruger so using .430 dies and it's bearing on the side surfaces of the bullet well. What's going on here am I doing something wrong? Have cast for years with Lyman cast iron molds but, never for a gas checked bullet before. This is my first time with an aluminum mold. HELP!!

[quasi]

What temperature are you casting at?

[S.B.]

800 or as high as my old Lyman 10lber will go? Don't use a thermometer? Had a hard time getting this mold to get warm also? Till I read their instructions about dipping the corner of the mold into the molten metal.

[MT Gianni]

What do the bases mike? This should be a tapered gas check schank IIRC. Can you measure the check base with a set of inside calipers and see the difference? Sometimes it is check size and sometimes the mold has a small schank. If it is a small shank send it back with a few checks from 2 different lots and describe the problem. Gianni

[leftiye]

Your gas check shanks are too small. You might be able to cast bigger with hotter melt, or with higher antimony allot. Otherwise you could have the shanks reamed a little, or you could send it back.

[Blammer]

I have the same problem with my lee 310 RF mould with the GC shank

hone out the GC shank just a tad and that will help.

[454PB]

I agree with the previous posts, but suspect from your remarks about having trouble getting the mould hot enough that you are casting too cold. Lee's like a lot of heat, and the best boolits are frosty from the high temperatures.

You don't say what alloy you are using, but the higher the antimony content, the larger the diameter. Are you using some of the older Lyman gas checks?

I have the same mould, and I have to really press to get the gas checks on the shank.

[S.B.]

Does anyone know what this bullets should mike at the shank for the gas check? I tried to follow their instructions closely but, maybe I didn't smoke this area enough? Sprues were cutting easily, bullet dropped from the mold with light tap on hinge bolt? I used Lyman bullet lube on the sprue plate?
Question: Do I have to clean, smoke and lube this mold every time I cast, remember, this is my first rodeo with an aluminum mold?
By the way, Thanks to the guy who made me the top punch for this bullet. I got an envelope that was torn to bits with no retun address with a Post Office type written label and had already deleted the PMs for it or I would have remitted your shipping costs?


454PB, Hornaday gas checks and straight wheel weights.

[leftiye]

There used ta be a sticky about gas check shank sizes. Probly still is.

[Possum]

SEND IT BACK!!!! I had the same problem with a 6 banger and after trying to work it out with different alloys decided I shouldn't have to work on a brand new mold. I sent it back and the one I got in replacement worked fine. They did not charge me (only cost was shipping back to Lee).

[S.B.]

Thanks Possum, Midway sent me a phone number for Lee last night and I'll call them on Monday. My thinking paralels yours.

[S.B.]

There used ta be a sticky about gas check shank sizes. Probly still is.
Where at, what forum or what's it called?
Steve

[S.B.]

I tried a few more of these last night before resorting to calling Lee but, only got 9 to fit the gas checks(so to speak) out of a pot full of lead. So, I'm calling this morning.

[Rustyleee]

Let us know how it turns out, please.

[S.B.]

Well, it's been closed to a week since I sent the mold back to Lee priority mail so they've had it for about 5 days now, and nothing yet??? My vacation ended this tuesday so I won't be able to do any load testing now.
Steve

[Shuz]

Anybody else out there "scalp" a Lee 430-310-RF? Mine works fine and the resultant boolit, weighs 270g, doesn't need a gas check and shoots very well without leading.

[IcerUSA]

My 2 cavity was ubdersize when I got it , did some Leementing and lapping and now it's a tad large on the gas check shank , live and learn , now I use plates to put on my lapping compound and wipe off the areas that don't need to be lapped , not a big deal to me and I had a mould that sized at .430 and dropped like gang busters . It only took me a few hours and I didn't have to wait for Lee or spend the money to send it back . Just the way I am I guess .

I got the chance to get a 6 banger from one of the group members and it only needed a little polishing to get it to drop nicely so the 2 holer kind of just sits there now . :)

YMMV

Keith

[S.B.]

Still no mold, so I called Lee and was told they plan on fixing my mold tomorro? I should of gotten back in touch with Midway, I'd have a mold back from them by now? Lee seems to be dragging their feet on this? I was told originally, that they would hustle it up and get the mold back to me ASAP. Isn't working that way? Maybe the end of next week?

[Junior1942]

I suspect Lee is snowed under with mold orders. Give them time, and they'll fix your mold. I have the same mold, and the checks fit fine.

[DanOH]

"Anybody else out there "scalp" a Lee 430-310-RF? Mine works fine and the resultant boolit, weighs 270g, doesn't need a gas check and shoots very well without leading."

Now this sounds very interesting...details..pictures ...please !
Sounds like about a perfect bullet.

[Rick N Bama]

"Anybody else out there "scalp" a Lee 430-310-RF? Mine works fine and the resultant boolit, weighs 270g, doesn't need a gas check and shoots very well without leading."

Now this sounds very interesting...details..pictures ...please !
Sounds like about a perfect bullet.

I have one that's been "scalped" but I've not shot any yet. IIRC, the scalped version comes in at something like 265grs. I guess I need to load some up & give them a try. The full version with a healthy dose of H110 or WC820 sure is a handfull!

Rick

[S.B.]

Junior1942, I understand your mold is fine but, mine isn't and they have already been paid for this mold, you'ld think this would get priority? If I would of contacted Midway again, I'm sure they would of replaced it by new?

[NSP64]

I agree with IcerUSA, If my LEE won't drop the right size , I leement it. Case in point, just bought a new (from Midway) C.312-155-1r mold for SKS on 5/12/08, it dropped 2 different size boolits. Leemented them 1 at a time now both drop same size (.313) and within .3 gr of each other. Cast up a bunch on 5/14 and will load tonight and shoot tomorrow. no waiting on anyone.:Fire:

P.S. Learned how to do all the above from the fine folks here.

[S.B.]

newsmokepole64, so your saying you think it better and do the leementing and then have the gas check shank over sized?

[NSP64]

S.B. What I am saying is if there is a problem with the mold that is fixable, I will do it myself. If you want it done right..........:drinks:

[S.B.]

Personally, I do not know the diimention of what the gas check shank is suppose to be, so I wouldn't feel confident in attempting this? I worked in machine work for about 6 years and feel good about most machining operations.

[IcerUSA]

Not to hard to figure out , do a light lap , cast a few , check the fit of the gas check , when it fits the job is done , it dosen't take much , tooth paste or some bakeing soda made into a paste and lap the cavity a few times with the instructions in the Leementing sticky . First time is the scariest but we all got to learn sonner or later , main thing is if you do decide to try it GO SLOW , recast , check fit or size (depending on what your attempting to do with the mould) , if not to your liking , repeat . If you have a set of calipers just check a dozen or so checks to see what the inside diamiters are then you will know what or how much you would have to change the shank so the checks will fit . Don't go at it whole hog , GO SLOW , take your time and I think that in less than 3 hours your mould will do what you think it should .

just the way I have done it .

Good luck with which ever way you pursue the venture .

Keith

[S.B.]

Lets see, there are six cavities and I'm no longer on vacation? The mold is up in Wisconsin at Lee. I'd have the time for it coming home and more shipping and then the lapping process, my time is limited to say the least. I'll wait on Lee, thanks.

[S.B.]

OK, Lee finally got this mold back to me with their comments. No sign of lubrication or smoking? I lubed with bullet sizer lube and smoked it best I could.
How often should I smoke this mold and why, what does ithe match smut do for the bullets?
Nice to find out that Lee molds require another product to make them work correctly. What lube and where do I get this stuff? Is this because it's an aluminum mold and why doesn't Lyman cast iron molds require smoking and the lube process?
This project won't take much more monitary output, and it'll be right up there with other molds cost, I already owned.

[GabbyM]

Have you tried heating this mould up on a hot plate before hand?
I like to heat them for twenty minutes or so on low setting. Aluminum moulds like Lee are going to expand at least half a thousandth (.0005") after they get hot. IMHO dipping the corner of a long six cavity mould could give you uneven heat at best.

Secondly what is your alloy? Some change their could possibly give you larger bullets.
For example. Wheel weight alloy will give a bullet .3% smaller than Taracorp’s Lawrence Magnum
bullet alloy (2% tin, 6% antimony, 1/4% arsenic, 91.75% lead). Given that .3% of a .420” diameter is
.00126” that could do the trick right their. Would be some higher priced bullets though. Especially since you're barely getting 22 bullets per pound of metal with those big boys.

[S.B.]

Do I really need to buy a hot plate? That would put the cost of using this mold over my budget. Alloy is as I've stated earlier in this thread, WW?

I guess that put Lees no longer cheap to buy or use?
Steve

[GabbyM]

use the kitchen stove.
I bought a hot plate for ten dollars a while back.
You can also get a lee six cavity heated up by laying it across the top of your melt pot while it's comming up to temp. sort of a trick to get it to prop up their just right.

[S.B.]

I actually had to dip the corner of this mold in the pot? IE: According to Lee instructions.

[IcerUSA]

Have you tried the mould out after you got it back to see if the checks stay on ?

Keith

[S.B.]

I bought this mold while on vacation, and I haven't had time to think since it took so long to get it back from Lee. Construction season is in full swing, around here. No I haven't yet.

[S.B.]

Have you tried heating this mould up on a hot plate before hand?
I like to heat them for twenty minutes or so on low setting. Aluminum moulds like Lee are going to expand at least half a thousandth (.0005") after they get hot. IMHO dipping the corner of a long six cavity mould could give you uneven heat at best.

Secondly what is your alloy? Some change their could possibly give you larger bullets.
For example. Wheel weight alloy will give a bullet .3% smaller than Taracorp’s Lawrence Magnum
bullet alloy (2% tin, 6% antimony, 1/4% arsenic, 91.75% lead). Given that .3% of a .420” diameter is
.00126” that could do the trick right their. Would be some higher priced bullets though. Especially since you're barely getting 22 bullets per pound of metal with those big boys.

Just how are you getting your Lee molds to sit flat on a hot plate? Do you deepen the counter sink for the screws and then shorten the screws? The screws heads in my mold sit below the level of the bottom of the mold body.
Steve

[Blammer]

set the mould on the edge of your pot of lead while it is heating let i set there for 30 min. tadaaa pre heated.

[S.B.]

Blammer, been there done that, always do when casting. Even dipped the end of this mold into the molten alloy and still couldn't get the gascheck shanks to fill in? Got to be something wrong on my end, the 12 bullets Lee sent back with mold/ 6 with gaschecks and 6 still in mold, are perfect?
Probably going to go back to my Lymans and see if things straighten out? If so, don't think I could ever put trust in Lee again?

[leadman]

Awhile back I had trouble with a Lee mold and sent it back. After a couple weeks I called Lee and talked with Pat. He told me they use a 1 to 10 tin to lead alloy for casting. I asked why since this is an alloy few people use or sell. He said they have always used this. I told him most casters use WW or something close and it does not fill out quite as well as their alloy. He had no real comment.

This could explain why we have so many problems with Lee molds.

I have been using Midway mold drop-out(spray graphite) or a candle to smoke my molds.

The spray graphite seems to work really well, but you have to make sure you use a very light coating.

[S.B.]

When I spoke to Lee, they told and the invoice they sent back with this mold, said they use alloy very close to WW in casting the bullets that came back with the mold, also?
Theirs were perfect, mine are trash?

[GabbyM]

Just how are you getting your Lee molds to sit flat on a hot plate? Do you deepen the counter sink for the screws and then shorten the screws? The screws heads in my mold sit below the level of the bottom of the mold body.
Steve

Both my lee moulds came from factory with handle mount screws countersunk below the bottom surface of the mould.

At any rate a few minutes of casting fast should bring your moulds up to temp. one of mine is a little 125 gr 357 cal. And it will get hot in a few minutes. I do remember one of those moulds not casting good bullets for an hour or two. I'd give up and let it cool ten clean with alcohol or carb cleaner. Nothing worked except running thirty pounds of lead through it. I broke in a new Saeco .357 180gr gas check bullet Saturday. I'd soaked it in a bean can submerged in alcohol and it still took half hour to an hour to start dropping good bullets.

How close to Arthur are you? perhaps we could give it a try with some of my alloy.

[S.B.]

GabbyM, I've been through 30# with this mold, so, been there? Like I said, got to be something on my end but, what? Maybe I'll try your trick of soaking for an hour in Isopropil?

[Rick N Bama]

S.B., it's just a thought but why don't you ask one of the more experienced members of this fine board to cast with your mold? I'm sure you'll get an expert to volunteer for no more than you paying the shipping both ways. I would volunteer myself, but I've never been called an expert:)

I find that most of my Lee molds started doing better around the 4th or 5th casting session I've had with a new one.

Rick

[S.B.]

What is the purpose of the soot? The smoking of the Lee molds? What does it do for the casting? Why does Lee or anyone for that matter, suggest this?
Steve

[S.B.]

By the way, there are no vent lines on this mold, just some tool marks left by the end mill cutter used to face both sides of the mold? But, if Lee used this mold to cast the bullets send back with this mold, how did they do it?

[S.B.]

In all fairness to Lee, I went down to the basement and started casting some .44(240 grain Keiths) and decided to switch to the Lee mold and low and behold, theings started working the way they should. All cavities were filled and good bullets appeared. The only thing I did different was no smoking, no hot plate, or lubing of the mold, just cleaned(before I put this mold away with Isopropil alcohol? Is is possible that the Lee have extended break in periods?