Where to get angle iron ingot molds

[convert69]

Anyone have a source for buying angle iron ingot molds?

[RogerDat]

Any local welding shop, or friend with a welder. If you just weld the outside you can use a little JB Weld to address any minor gaps on the inside so ingots don't have a crack to get hung up on. They are just a row of angle iron with a piece across the ends.

[country gent]

1/4" X 2" X 2" X 6-10" length works well. Guit angles with a 10* angle on ends to aid release of ingots flat stock 1/4"x 2 1/2" works for ends or even the 2" angle iron. Sit on flat welding table open end down and tack weld 3-4 together at each end. Weld ends on complete welds a wire welder works great here. The 10* ends allows for ingots to drop thru open space quickly and easily. 3-4 of these will make 6-10 lbs of ingots depending on length. Make 3-4 as these size ingots solidify slower. 2-3" channel iron works good also. If you want to get real fancy a piece of 1/8" X 1" X 1" cut 45* and fitted 2-3 places down evenly spaced makes it into a chop style ingot.

[Mica_Hiebert]

Why not use channel iron so there's not a seam in the middle to worry about?

[hc18flyer]

I cut the length of mine to fit inside USPS sfrb, in case I wanted to sell or trade some? Seems like you an get 25# or so in? Does JB Weld really work in the tiny gaps?

[hc18flyer]

Sorry, mine are 2" angle, alternate them in the box to fill the box. Flyer

[RogerDat]

Yes JB Weld works to seal the small inside seams. about 1/16 to 1/8 inch under 8 inches works well for a length. Small Flat Rate Box and Medium both have and 8 inch dimension. Don't forget if you are putting an angle on the ends to make the longest part your just under 8 inch dimension, not the "short" part of the angle cut. Don't ask how I know.

Reason for angle iron ingots is they make a triangle shape that can be nested tightly by alternating point up and point down. >^v^< With ones on the end sideways fit tightly in a box. Channel works too but due to the curves in the bottom of the channel probably won't be as tightly packed. If you look in the background of the 2nd or 3rd picture you can see some of those angle iron molds stacked next to the casting pot.

160439
160441
160440

If I wanted to do slab type ingots I would go with cheapest aluminum bread loaf pan from Wal-Mart. For $20 you can get 10 "molds" that do 12-16 lbs. each as couple inch slabs. Can easily do 12 lbs. in each you can make 120 lbs. of ingots at a shot. Coffee can gives perspective but that picture is at least 500 lbs. of lead in a compact form. Each is 4 ladles @ 3# each

160442

[Rattlesnake Charlie]

Do not overlook the small baking trays. I have some that make ingots that are about 4" long, 2" wide", and up to 1" deep. Yeah, I bought them at WalMart. Probably a dollar or so each. They stack better than the angle iron ingots. The dollar-type stores often have similar cookware.

[lancem]

I can make some for you, just need to know what you want size wise.

[catskinner]

I use angle iron on the ends. Good place to grab with a Vise Grip.

[NavyVet1959]

Just remember to slightly angle the ends outward so that the ingots will slip out easier. If you angle the ends inward, you will find that you have to beat the ingots out.

[lightman]

There have been a few guys on here that make smelting pots and ingot molds for sale. Keep an eye on the swapping and selling section. Also, any welding shop can make you some.

[jmort]

I got mine from member Phoenix (sp?) Don't recall seeing him post recently, but you should check with him if possible. Mine were perfect for what I was looking for.

[Smoke4320]

Jmort thanks for posting that .. I was racking my brain trying to remember his handle

[Mk42gunner]

I can't believe that no one has suggested this is a perfect opportunity for you to increase the items in your garage by learning to weld and making your own.

Size wise, anything from 1¼" to 2" angle iron works, and then whatever length you want. BruceB (RIP), recommended 10.5 inches for storage in a fifty cal ammo can.

Robert

[DukeInFlorida]

I'm looking to make angle iron or U channel molds that will completely fill a small flat rate box.
The dimensions of the small flat rate box are weird, compared to standard angle iron and U channel stock.

Is 1.750" angle iron the correct size for making ingots that completely fill the small flat rate boxes? Or, does some other size better fill the small flat rate boxes?

Also, a U-channel might be better or easier to work with. Can someone suggest a U channel size that also makes ingots that completely fill the small flat rate box?

Looking for maximum amount of lead in a small flat rate box, with no air space to stuff with paper, etc.

[NavyVet1959]

Looking for maximum amount of lead in a small flat rate box, with no air space to stuff with paper, etc.

You just need to cut the angle iron the the right length in on dimension and the other dimension is going to depend upon how full you make each ingot. It's easy enough math to calculate it. Just get a SFRB and measure the dimension(s) in question.

Just remember, if you fill the mold all the way to the top, it will be more difficult to get the ingot to release by simply turning it upside down and dropping it on its 'top'.

[NavyVet1959]

I can't believe that no one has suggested this is a perfect opportunity for you to increase the items in your garage by learning to weld and making your own.

I guess it's difficult for some of us to grasp the concept that a man wouldn't already own welding machine. :)

[dikman]

I guess it's difficult for some of us to grasp the concept that a man wouldn't already own welding machine. :)
Or two....

As for filling the gaps between the welds, I didn't bother, I just used heavy tack welds on the outside of the angles and never had a problem with sticking ingots.

[NavyVet1959]

As for filling the gaps between the welds, I didn't bother, I just used heavy tack welds on the outside of the angles and never had a problem with sticking ingots.

I made mine from channel iron and welded the inside seams. I had picked up some scrap pieces of channel iron from a steel shop and they were all cut to about 8" or so in length. Unfortunately, the cuts weren't angled like they should be and some of the ingots ended up being a bit sticky. Or maybe the lead is getting hung up on my welds and is sticky because of that instead. My last batch of smelting wheelweights ended up with a lot of steel and zinc and not that much lead, so I'm not too worried about fixing my ingot molds right now. :(

[Mk42gunner]

I'm looking to make angle iron or U channel molds that will completely fill a small flat rate box.
The dimensions of the small flat rate box are weird, compared to standard angle iron and U channel stock.

Is 1.750" angle iron the correct size for making ingots that completely fill the small flat rate boxes? Or, does some other size better fill the small flat rate boxes?

Also, a U-channel might be better or easier to work with. Can someone suggest a U channel size that also makes ingots that completely fill the small flat rate box?

Looking for maximum amount of lead in a small flat rate box, with no air space to stuff with paper, etc.

Duke, if I were trying to completely fill a small flat rate box, I would weld up a mold specifically sized to fill the SFRB. You could make it to form either a solid ingot, or so it took several of them to fill the box.


I guess it's difficult for some of us to grasp the concept that a man wouldn't already own welding machine. :)

Yeah, Harbor Freight 110 volt wire welders are usually on sale for less than a Lincoln buzzbox costs used. Easier to learn on too. They won't handle very big jobs, but they would be fine for making ingot molds.

Craigslist usually has decent deals available too.

Robert

[NavyVet1959]

Yeah, Harbor Freight 110 volt wire welders are usually on sale for less than a Lincoln buzzbox costs used. Easier to learn on too. They won't handle very big jobs, but they would be fine for making ingot molds.

Craigslist usually has decent deals available too.


I was not satisfied with the quality of my welds with the wire feed welders. Too much splatter, which resulted in me spending too much time clean up the welds afterwards. I came across one of the old Lincoln AC-225 on Craigslist for around $100 and snatched it up. It's more than paid for itself in the various projects around the house. Anything thinner than 16-gauge, I tend to burn through, so my solution to that is to just not weld on anything that thin. :)

[Mk42gunner]

I've been looking for a good used DC welder for a couple of years now. I had my cousin's Lincoln SA-200 pipeline welder here for several years, amazing how easy it is to weld with good quality equipment.

Robert

[country gent]

Ive wanted one of the miller power supplies with mig tig and arc attachments and gas flux for mig and tig. I had a flux core wire welder and it was terrible for splatter and inclusions. Argon mix is much better and makes a better weld. Its one thing until your with out it you dont realize how much you use it

[Geezer in NH]

Look in swapping and selling I have seen them there for sale.

[RogerDat]

I borrowed a neighbors wire feed, I have a stick welder but don't have 220 line run to garage yet. Is part of a larger sub panel job for garage that has been on back burner for awhile. Contemplation of design specifications one might say, or procrastination over spending the time and money. I have done a lot more stick than wire feed, did wire feed years (decades) ago in a plant but there was no way I was welding the inside seam, just not smooth enough in results or technique.

Someplace out in the garage I have an old 110 volt "buzz box" stick and carbon arc welder. Can only use a rod about as thick as coat hanger wire but it does work on a 15 amp 110 volt circuit. Just won't work very hard. Carbon arc brazing requires squeezing a clamp handle and holding it just right so that the two carbon arc rods have an arc you can use to braze/weld with. Another "if you are desperate" tool that just barely works well enough to use.

Mine are fairly deep angle iron, I control depth and weight of finished ingot by picking what ladle I will use and how full I will fill it. I like the small bars for melting in a pot or mixing a batch of alloy to try. I sometimes clear out a casting pot by dumping almost full ingots, but as someone pointed out totally full mold the ingot won't fall loose when turned over and dropped. Ingot hits before mold. For general storage I have become more of a fan of the 12 & 16 lb. slabs from the bread loaf pans. Won't ship USPS especially well as far as fit goes but stack and store with less labeling on my part.

[Rio]

Anyone have a good pic of some of these? I have a welder and angle iron!

[marvelshooter]

160802Here are the ones I made.

[Rio]

That would be easy, what size angle is that 1 1/2?

[marvelshooter]

That would be easy, what size angle is that 1 1/2?

I will have to measure one tomorrow. They are out in the shed. At the same time I will weigh an ingot.

[country gent]

RogerDat, A little practice with the wire welder and good joints and youll be laying good welds in short order. A nice touch if you weld on the inside is a little work with a die grinder and radious the welds cleaning them up with a heavy die grinder and wheel. With proper heat and feed welds will be fine. weld outsides for practice till welds get to looking good. If you have acess to a torch ( oxy accetylene) you can weld them with it and clothes hanger. with a proper welding tip get the puddle started and add wire as needed to form bead working around the seam. Set up and lightly clamp. tack on outside at the points angles then flip over and weld insides forming the bead. These welds can be very strong and solid when done correctly also.

[marvelshooter]

That would be easy, what size angle is that 1 1/2?
The angle iron is 1/4 x 2 cut 4 7/8 long with an angle to provide draft. The ends are 1/4 x 2 about 3" long. As someone suggested it would help knocking the ingots out if the the end plates protruded above the angle iron. The ingots weigh about 2 1/2 pounds.

[Elkins45]

I wish I had the problem of having so much alloy that I need to pour it into molds that big. I'm still using muffin tins, condiment cups and mini loaf pans, and I don't use them as often as I would like.

[catskinner]

I never welded on the inside of the ingot molds I made,just on the outside. Never had a problem with ingots releasing.

[tallpaul]

One of the best tools I ever bought was my first miller 110 volt mig with the gas bottle. Easy to use and learn- it helped me fix many things and fabricate many others. Like what has already been said - you will wonder how you got along without one after ya get one. I still use mine after 20 plus years. I did just but a 250 amp hobart unit I am getting used to and started playng with a miller buzz box I have had forever but did not use until recently. The flux core is dirtier than the gas mig for sure but works better outside and in windy areas :)

[Whitesmoke]

With a welder and a bandsaw its real easy to fab up the molds and have a very neat joint fit up..

When the 3 or 4 vee segments are tacked together ,tack weld a temporary brace across the bottom same side as the tacks- make it less than the width of the unit as it will foul the bandsaw vice jaws
Its then possible to place the tacked unit into the bandsaw at say ten degrees. Mark off the angle with texta mark on the vice jaws.

Cut off waste and flip the unit end for end and align with the texta mark on the bandsaw vice jaws and cut.

Knock off the burrs and tack the side plates on.The fit up for the side plates will be darn close

Keep all the welding and tacks to the base side. I also took my die grinder and reverse marked pure in the inside of the moulds.Hopefully its deep enough to read in the cast ingots.

I have tried upload a pic for you but am not sure if it will load up.


Cheers

Grahame

[country gent]

I set mine at 10* and measured from table to bottom of angle. A piece of round stock just shorter under the far end and each and every one is the same angle. No marking eyeing or other games. just set on the round stock under far end and cut.

[Mal Paso]

These are 2x2x1/8x7 inch pieces of angle iron with 1 1/2x1/8 strap sides welded from the backside with a 120 volt Hobart 125 flux core welder. Ends of the angle were cut about 10* for easy release. Small gaps don't matter if the mold isn't super hot. It does not need to be watertight just strong enough for 25 pounds of lead. 5/16 rod for handles.

[Rio]

I like those, I can make them. Just need to set the bandsaw up for some production runs.

[Whitesmoke]

Guys,
Hoping some one may be able to answer this one. My little mould sees way to small in the ingot weight it casts.

What size angle would I need to make another mould to throw ingots of around 1lb weight?

Thanks
Whitesmoke

[NavyVet1959]

Guys,
Hoping some one may be able to answer this one. My little mould sees way to small in the ingot weight it casts.

What size angle would I need to make another mould to throw ingots of around 1lb weight?


That is going to depend on what length you want your ingots. It is a simple math volume calculation.

[LenH]

First of all I don't own a welder, but I work for a steel fabricator. It is good to befriend one of the fitter/welders I swapped a guy some
.45 colt rounds for a couple of ingot molds made from 4" X 1 5/8" channel with 2 X 2 angle ends, I think the channel is 5" long. there are 2 channels
per mold and he made me 2 molds. If the molds are filled to nearly over flow the ingots weigh a bit over 4 pounds.

The trouble with these ingot molds is he didn't cut a large enough angle in the end and when they were welded the end cut all but disappeared. It takes
a little bit of banging to get the ingots to fall out. But that is the nature of the beast.

I also made a ladle out of a 4" domed pipe cap with a piece of bent square bar. It hold enough alloy to fill one of the channels.

[duckey]

Made a 3 cavity angle iron mold but did not angle the ends. Also welded inside the cavities then die ground o give a radius which was way more work and not really needed. Ingots fall out just fine.