Vintage Lyman #61 and Saeco#24

[Southerngunner]

Lately it seems that I have been on a vintage gear quest. It all started with a Lyman 45 that ReloaderFred was king enough to give me a great deal on. Next I decided that better meting options than my tired old Lee drip-o-matics ,so I went to ebay and was able to win a Nicely restored Lyman #61. I also bought a Saeco #24 that looked pretty rough but the seller said that it worked well so for $45.00 I took a chance. They both arrived yesterday and I got a chance to try them today , and the old raggedy looking Saeco heated up better and held the temp better than the Lyman. Perhaps I can adjust the thermostat on the #61 to improve the performance. Here is a couple pics of my new old furnaces. 159358159359159360159361

[StuBach]

I'm curious what you think of the Saeco. That's the only furnace I have ever used since I inherited it and I'm not inclined to change cause is does great by me.

Glad to hear your 45 is working well. Sorry I couldn't compete on price.

[Southerngunner]

I'm curious what you think of the Saeco. That's the only furnace I have ever used since I inherited it and I'm not inclined to change cause is does great by me.

Glad to hear your 45 is working well. Sorry I couldn't compete on price.

I have the 45 cleaned and set up but I haven't done a lot with it yet but I believe it will be fine as I will only be using it for small 38 cal. slugs. Now for the Saeco model 24 at this point I must say that once I figure out the flow settings this will be my go to pot:grin::grin:. I am still trying the fine adjustment on the thermostat in the Lyman but I believe I will be ordering a new one after I try bypassing the thermostat to see if the pot heats up faster. That should tell me if its the heating coil or otherwise. When The Saeco cools down I have a can of High temp BBQ paint waiting to doll it up:wink: Before I started with the 2 pots I pulled the handle and seating stems out to clean them up and I notice the Saeco has a flat bottom below the Tapered seat and the Lymans stem is longer and is pointed to seal off the flow. The serial # on my Seaco is E663 and the thermostat /Heating control has a set of contact points so I am assuming that is the older style.

[StuBach]

Yeah, mine is another Grandpa original bought new back in the day. Serial number K373.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160128/88a16c3c9de3d28c027993d810ad9629.jpg

A quick cleaning had mine back up and running smoothly. Only mod I had to make was adding a handle to the linkage. I've been wondering if tapering the plug rod wouldn't create a better seal. Mine drips what I would consider quite a bit but again, no other experience to bass it on.

[StuBach]

Just noticed, assuming standard numbering. Mine being a later model they added more range to the temperature scale on later ones.

[Southerngunner]

Yeah, mine is another Grandpa original bought new back in the day. Serial number K373.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160128/88a16c3c9de3d28c027993d810ad9629.jpg

A quick cleaning had mine back up and running smoothly. Only mod I had to make was adding a handle to the linkage. I've been wondering if tapering the plug rod wouldn't create a better seal. Mine drips what I would consider quite a bit but again, no other experience to bass it on.

I took my pot outside and put White vinegar in it and heated it up and it cleaned up very well . Mine seals good even with the vinegar in it but Look closely before you start tapering the flat end of plug rod because it may be too short for the sealing seat after a taper ,however a longer rod could be made that may work with a taper.

[StuBach]

Yeah, I'm not skilled in those abilities nor have the tools sadly but I'm prolly just going to let it go. My solution is to keep a personal pan pizza pan underneath and then just dump it in from time to time.

[StuBach]

I noticed the guide that was added to yours. I think I'm going to try and replicate something like that but I'll prolly adapt it to be easily removable.

[Southerngunner]

I noticed the guide that was added to yours. I think I'm going to try and replicate something like that but I'll prolly adapt it to be easily removable.

I thought about removing it until I tried casting a few bullets with my 4 cavity Arsenal mold and it worked great so now, I'm going to fab one for my lyman. All it really takes is 2 2 1/2" L brackets and a 5/16" bolt with a piece of tubing .I don't see any reason that I piece of copper pipe the proper size would not work. The only thing that I would different is I would mount the angle brackets to a piece of flat metal instead of mounting it permanently to the base that way I could easily remove it. I will get the parts and make one next week and show you what I'm talking about.

[StuBach]

I think I can picture what your going for. I was thinking along the same lines but maybe 2 bolts/tubing to add stability to mold. I was also debating using rare earth magnets (have several lying around) to give it added stability and keep it in place without permanent attachment.

I would still love to see your idea to add ideas to what I end up with. Sadly I'm traveling for business next week so not much time for casting/projects till I get back.

[StuBach]

so I got to piddling with some scraps I had around along with the SS spacers I picked up today and came up with this option. (Magnets are attached to SS tray in back to keep in place. Tray is a scrape from former employer)

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160130/8204bf054518891c71bb37808a52fc4e.jpg

Hopefully it works as well as I hope. Nice thing is I can remove it to move to another pot if I ever upgrade or for cleaning.

Thoughts or improvement ideas?

[Southerngunner]

so I got to piddling with some scraps I had around along with the SS spacers I picked up today and came up with this option. (Magnets are attached to SS tray in back to keep in place. Tray is a scrape from former employer)

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160130/8204bf054518891c71bb37808a52fc4e.jpg

Hopefully it works as well as I hope. Nice thing is I can remove it to move to another pot if I ever upgrade or for cleaning.

Thoughts or improvement ideas?

That looks like it should work just fine , I think that on my next one I will maybe double up the brackets and have 2 rollers for the molds to set on. Just curious but are the angle brackets that you used 2 inches?

[StuBach]

No their one inch I think I just used what I had floating around. Might run to the hardware store today and pick up some more in the 2" to try and raise it more and, like you mentioned, add another roller. Debating the second roller being opposite the spout or both on same side (or two on one side one on opposite for total of three).

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I bought a Saeco Model 34 back in the day. It is a 20# ladle type unit and I have used it as a smelter a well. My first bottom pour was also a Saeco model 24 and I still use it for my one and two cavity work. It has never missed a beat; never dripped, nothing ever wore out or burned out. I use a block of aluminum underneath the spout as a mold guide/rest. Have always kept both pots clean and sprayed the metal parts with Rustoleum High temp BBQ paint to ward off rust. They have both served me well. LLS

[WALLNUTT]

I remember someone writing that at least some Lyman pots have a small set screw under / behind the thermostat dial that can be turned to adjust max temp. But then again it's MY memory.

[Southerngunner]

I remember someone writing that at least some Lyman pots have a small set screw under / behind the thermostat dial that can be turned to adjust max temp. But then again it's MY memory.
You are correct Sir, I removed the thermostat and I was able to see the small screw and after adjusting it both directions I am pleased to say the pot works fine:grin:.

[WALLNUTT]

Good deal. I'm not as senile as she thinks I am.

[Calamity Jake]

Saeco produced both of these pots, 1 to there specs and the other to Lyman specs.

[M99SavNut]

Have a SAECO pot that leaks, and am looking at a Lyman on eBay. Does anyone know if the pouring spout is removable for cleaning/truing up, so as to stop the leaking? If not is there some countersink (size and angle) or counterbore (again, what size) that could be put in from the top to clean things up?

Thanks for input.

[WALLNUTT]

You can put some lapping compound on the tip of the rod and turn slowly with a drill to match the rod to the seat. Much like seating valves in an engine. I've used that technique for Lyman and LEE. I don't know about Saeco but it couldn't be much different.