Annealing -- HOW TO ????

[old benn]

Maybe there are some photos somewhere in our forum on how annealing is done. I have never done it, but I do remember seeing a photo of standing the cases upright
in a pan of water, applying heat from a torch to reach a certain color, then pushing the case over into the water to quench it. Looking for help here. Old Benn

[dragon813gt]

Google search is your friend. There is no point in typing it all out here yet again. 6mmbr has a long article about it: http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

There are many methods to anneal brass. Pick one that works best for you.

[old benn]

Thank you so much dragon813gt. I came to Ga from Latrobe PA. Curious about your SEPA old benn

[dragon813gt]

I live outside if Philly so we were on opposite sides of the state. I feel bad about what Anheuser did to Latrobe.

[nvreloader]

Old Benn

You might want to check out this site and info for annealing,
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/434088_DIY_Annealing_Machine.html

I am waiting for parts to finish building mine, as the $$$ I saved from buying those high $$$ machines can better set.

Tia,
Don

[bstewrat3]

I have been annealing 360 Dan Wesson and shortened 223 brass for making 300 Whisper by starting a propane torch and turning it down until the center blue point is @ 1/2" long. I turn the 223 brass using a 3/8" socket on a cordless screwdriver holding the top 3/8" of the case right at the tip of the blue point until it starts to turn blue which takes me 7-8 seconds and then dump it into a container. I don't rapidly cool it like I have heard others do.

[georgerkahn]

All pretty great posts/suggestions, but let me add one: Annealing can in fact be your friend or foe. Looking at it from "extremes", if you do not ever anneal your brass, the most you'd be out is a few pieces of brass generally split while reloading. At the other extreme, if you over-zealously "anneal" your brass by getting the case head area annealed, the most you'd be out might be your firearm, hand &/or a few fingers... or your life! I am so happy to read you are asking information -- I too recommend reading the http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html article!
BEST!
geo

[leadman]

Don't buy into the "cherry Red" color of the neck before you cool. This can lead to necks too soft and they collapse when trying to seat a projectile.
I use 400 degree heat paint on the shoulder as an indicator of temperature. I use my 18v Ryobi drill (stands up well by itself) with the Lee case length gauge shell holder and spin the case in the flame until the paint changes color. Hold the knurled nut and reverse the drill and drop the case in water. Has been working very well for me when I anneal, which is not very often.

[Wayne Smith]

All pretty great posts/suggestions, but let me add one: Annealing can in fact be your friend or foe. Looking at it from "extremes", if you do not ever anneal your brass, the most you'd be out is a few pieces of brass generally split while reloading. At the other extreme, if you over-zealously "anneal" your brass by getting the case head area annealed, the most you'd be out might be your firearm, hand &/or a few fingers... or your life! I am so happy to read you are asking information -- I too recommend reading the http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html article!
BEST!
geo

That's why I use my lead pot and bare fingers to time the process. Impossible for even me to overheat the brass.

[bullet maker 57]

Water quenching is not nessecary. It does not effect the brass one way or another. As stated above, overannealing can be a very dangerous thing to do.

[dragon813gt]

You are correct in that quenching isn't necessary. But it does allow for immediate handling. No matter which method you decide on. Use a product like Tempilaq on the case. It's the only way you really know how hot the case is.

[Retumbo]

Build one, I did(out of scrap)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGHv4cPR078

[big bore 99]

I've been using the tip over in a pan of water for years and it works great for me. Low to medium pressure loads for my 45-70 every 4th reload.

[brassrat]

I spin them in a small cordless with a deep socket, I may have removed the rubber thing inside.

[jimofaz]

re: "Build one, I did(out of scrap)"

Retumbo ... Nice! I'd like to access to a scrap pile like yours .....

Jim

[Retumbo]

Benefits of being an industrial electrician and doing retrofits

[country gent]

One benifit to the water quench or sitting in is it stops reduces the heat shrink back into the case head. I quench for this reason, to help preserve the case heads. I have done the tourch tried using a lead pot with lead ( ended up with cases and lead stuck to the necks. I use a dipper lead pot with a rack in it and very fine silica sand in it. I can control heat and time easily with this and no oxidation of the cases.

[zubrato]

I spin them in a small cordless with a deep socket, I may have removed the rubber thing inside.

Indeed, this is probably the best way short of using a machine, except I would add the socket should always be below the max point where you should stop annealing. This way you can be sure you dont zone out and see how far down it goes. It should also be loose enough to easily tilt the drill and dump out the case.
I use a blue propane torch, and have a quench bucket for the brass. You will get a feel for where the right color is, and what lighting the room should have. It's a very subtle metallic blue, with a great shine to the brass. Id reccomend using clean brass for this reason.
Brass cases have different alloy compositions between mfg's, and this is not an ultra precise method, but I've actually noticed very little variance in cases. My guess is not every ammo plant can afford to make their cases in house, and they probably contract it out to one of a few mfg's of brass cases with certain specs.


WRT annealing in a lead pot, I've never had luck with that, and I have actually noticed the brass cases begin to tin and deposit specks of lead on the inside and outside of the case neck and shoulder.
It works for some, but I would not recommend it on the off chance of reducing case capacity or burning the hell out of your fingers.

If you think you over annealed, and it turned red but didnt anneal the case heads, just lube it and size it once or twice in your die, it will be fine and you haven't ruined anything.

[5Shot]

I use the socket/drill method, but I had my dad make my socket out of Aluminum to suck more heat from the case head.

I sacrificed one case in order to get the time in the torch correct, using the Templaq. Once I figure the correct time for the neck to get over 600 without the area below the shoulder above 475, I write it down and have at it. I just pop the neck into the tip of the hot blue flame and start counting...pull it out and dump at the correct time. Gauging the color is hit or miss for me, but since machines do it by time, I figure I am good.

[brass2bullets]

This may sound redneck of me but, I just put my brass on a cookie sheet in the oven on a cleaning cycle and it anneals the brass. I then tumble in SS media and put in oven at lowest temp for 5-10 minutes to dry. Works great and does a lot of brass.


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[blackthorn]

[QUOTE=brass2bullets;3608462]This may sound redneck of mebut, I just put my brass on a cookie sheet in the oven on a cleaning cycle andit anneals the brass. I then tumble in SS media and put in oven at lowest tempfor 5-10 minutes to dry. Works great and does a lot of brass.


Not only red-necked but incredibly dangerous! If indeed you are achievinganneal in the manner described, you are annealing the whole case. All you wantto anneal is the neck and a very small amount of the case shoulder. Annealingthe whole case will soften the base of the case, dangerously weakening it! Youreally do NOT want to deal with the aftermath of a catastrophic case failure!There is a HUGE amount of information/discussion on getting a proper anneal onthis site and on many others. You really need to do a proper search andread/understand the annealing process and the dangers inherent thereto!

[brass2bullets]

Thanks, I just do it for pistol. Not for rifle. I should have clarified it. I can see your point. That would be bad with a case that blows up. I use a torch for the rifle.


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[nvreloader]

Here is another DIY build for an annealer,
see info here:
http://68forums.com/forums/showthread.php?54267-75-DIY-Automatic-Case-Annealer-Project-Complete!-Plans-and-parts-list-included!&highlight=Annealing+machine

A long read, but most all the questions are answered.

Tia,
Don

[dragon813gt]

It's just as bad w/ pistol brass. Annealing in the manner you do it is destroying the case.

[Irascible]

They stopped making them, but on a whim I Emailed the company and yes they still had a few Part SKU 041221 the price is now up to $78. I bought one which is now my 2nd. It comes with three case holders and a bottle of temperature sensitive paint. I timed the first few cartridges with paint and saw how long it took to change colors then did the rest without the paint. I now just work in a dark room and dump the cases when they get a dark maroon. The first three holders I chucked in a lathe and modified them to fit my 30 Herrett, 45-70 and 40-65. I needed the second set to fit some other cases such as my 44 Mag. That holder did not need modifying. To order, call Hornady at (800) 338-3220. I also found they had many discontinued bullets such as the 200 gr for the 33 Winchester which fits my SSK 338 Woods Walker

[bedbugbilly]

brass2bullets . . . . . No disrespect intended . . . but why would anyone anneal pistol casings? Even bottleneck pistol casings like 32-20, 38-40 or 44-40 seems like it would be better to just load and shoot until you get a split neck and then discard. Am I missing something here?

Maybe you could expand on your post? What pistol casings do you bake on a cookie sheet and why?

[trebor44]

After many hours of propane torch, socket in a cordless drill, sitting in a darkened garage I went for one of these: http://annealeez.ddns.net/. And I have to say I have no regrets. I do get to do 'other' tasks while annealing, and I get more done in a sitting.