Just starting

[jpen]

I'm just starting to get into casting and have a couple questions. The first is what should I do to my mold before I start? And what would be a good bullet and load to use in a Marlin 30/30?

[RobS]

There is a ton of info in the stickies on this forum. Also here is some other good links:
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm
http://www.lasc.us/castbulletnotes.htm


You mentioned what to do with the mold first: I would wash it with Dawn Original Dish Soap with a tooth brush. This helps take off any cutting oils but also the tooth brush takes off any burs that may be left over from the cutting of the cavities. The I like to preheat my molds right after to get the water out. The boolit and load for the 30/30 is a good question and one I can't answer right off hand as I've never cast or loaded for a Marlin 30/30. I'm sure someone will come along with some advise however researching here and on google will help too.

[RobS]

http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/boolit-casting/57095-best-cast-bullet-30-30-a.html

[RobS]

possibly this design which is a Ranch Dog design with traditional lube grooves:
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=30&products_id=512&osCsid=1v8vsjhsem7skqsf6pk11l9eb0

http://ranchdogoutdoors.com/bin/TLC311165RF/bullet/sketch.jpg

[DeadWoodDan]

The 30-30 is by far one of the best if not the best cast boolit shooters. As others have mentioned the RD311165 and 311041 are two of the most popular molds. One of the nice things about the 30-30 is its extremely versatile, many molds and powders with great results.

Since new to casting you may also want to purchase a Lee mold to cast with first. they are not expensive and will give almost as good results. Might even choose the Lee C309-115, its a light weight too be loaded with pistol powders for some very fun days.

Lots of options in this caliber spend days searching and you will find your answers, and come back with more questions.

DWD

[DerekP Houston]

I'm just starting to get into casting and have a couple questions. The first is what should I do to my mold before I start? And what would be a good bullet and load to use in a Marlin 30/30?

If you already have a mold and are looking to start casting just jump in. With the lee molds, I didn't bother with any break-in, just lube the pivot points and sprue plate with some 2-stroke oil if you have any. First ~50 or so will probably be rejects and get melted back down. The molds tend to perform better if you heat them on a hotplate first. Just keep at it and you'll have some shiny boolits in no time.

Some people find burrs/rough edges and polish the molds with comet/cleaning product. You can also use acetone on a fresh mold to remove any grease from packaging and manufacturing.

[WHITETAIL]

:drinks:First off!
Welcome to the Forum!!
And +1 on cleaning the mould with a tooth brush.
When it is dry I spray ( out doors) Carb cleaner.
It will remove any oil and dry with no residue.

[JeffG]

Like noted, clean it. Preheat it to about 350 or so. Take a q-tip and put a couple drops of oil on it, letting it wick into the cotton. Then use this to lube the hinge, top of mold and alignment pins, but stay away from the cavities. It is very easy to put too much which will result in it wicking into the cavity, then you'll have wrinkled bullets until the oil burns out. If using aluminum molds, you can start feeling the sprue plate get tight and galling when you need to add lube. You want the lightest film of lubricant, not wet. If you have it clean, alloy and mold hot enough, your first bullets out of the mold will be good.

[mac266]

1- Clean the mould, as others have said.

2- Smoke the mould. This is done by holding burning matches near the cavities. You don't need the flame near the cavities; you need the smoke to leave soot on them, which helps with releasing the boolits you're about to make. Some people buy a mould release agent instead of smoking them. This is a spray that deposits graphite on the mould instead of soot. I've tried it and it works, but it's expensive and makes my boolits have a frosted look. Smoking costs me about 4-5 matches per mould, per casting session.

3- I have several .30 caliber moulds, but my favorite for the .30-30 is the 311041. This is a very common / popular mould, and you can find them new just about anywhere or pick up a used one right here on this very forum!

4- Welcome to this addiction! In no time, you'll find yourself buying guns in oddball, obsolete calibers just so you can experiment with making boolits for them :) It becomes an addicting, and rewarding hobby.

5- If you haven't already, get a copy of the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. Not only does it have a lot of load data for many calibers (including for moulds made by manufacturers other than Lyman), it has many informational articles in the beginning of the book, too. These are well worth the read.

[jpen]

Thanks for the replies. I bought a Lee 170 grain mold to try and might get to try it this week end. Should I drop the bullets from the mold into cold water or just drop on a soft towel? I still have to get some gas checks and a sizer. Maybe in the next couple weeks.

[RobS]

Air Cooled or water quenched from the mold depends on what you are doing i.e. if needed for the velocities you are planning on working, the condition of your barrel etc. It also depends on the alloy you are using in such as any alloy with antimony will harden when quenched however a lead/tin binary alloy in the absence of antimony will have no affect to hardening.