WD-40 again

[44man]

Friend bought a MEC shotgun loader off Evil Bay. Mucked up bad and even rust on chrome plated. I got it clean and looks good, more work I hate so do NOT spray your tools or anything with that stuff.

[centershot]

WD40 is good for displacing moisture, but as 44man says, there are better things for long-term protection. Personally, I like RIG.

[Gtek]

My father thought it was the be all end all, many cans left. Works good removing label remains, that is about all I use it for till it is all gone. Oh, and it's fun to smoke bugs with the red tube installed and a lighter!

[Tom W.]

RemOil is so much better.....

[Hardcast416taylor]

Break Free.Robert

[tomme boy]

Its fish oil and some solvent to thin it out. I like it for certain things. Not really as a gun oil other than to clean it. I like to spray into the bore to help soften carbon a little.

[runfiverun]

it used to be fish oil and stuff.
now it's just stuff and it leaves a brown oxidized crust behind.

it should be called wd-43 or something like that to denote the cheapened version they sell now at a much inflated price.

[Larry Gibson]

I use WD-40 a lot to clean with but do not use it as a preservative even though it says it is. After normal bore cleaning where the patches come out "clean" I always make an additional pass with a patch with WD-40 on it. You'd be amazed at the additional crud the WD-40 takes out. I follow that with a dry patch and then the bore is clean. If I put a preservative in the bore it is Kroil. On the outside I use LSA or Break-Free.

Larry Gibson

[bedbugbilly]

I always keep a couple of cans of it around for certain things but not for a preservative spray - if I'm going to oil something down I use RemOil, etc. I do like it for use on the farm for such things as gate padlocks - especially in the spring and fall - shoot it in to loosen things up if necessary and then follow with an oil spray of some kind.

I have also used it as a bore cleaner and it's amazing how much stuff comes out on the patch - but like Larry above - I always dry patch afterwards and then use a lightly oiled patch (usually RemOil) to run through the bore if the gun is going to be sitting for a while before being shot.

My family had a lumberyard and every so often, our hardware supplier used to do a promotion with WD40 - 2 cans for the price of 1, etc. We used to have an older fellow come in and buy a half dozen cans at a time. I asked him once what he did with it and he said he had a bum knee and he sprayed WD40 on it everyday and it helped . . and he wasn't kidding . . . his usual sidekick was with him and he confirmed he was telling the truth. To each their own . . . when he told me that I suggested he drill and tap his knee and install a grease zerk.

[warpspeed]

I use WD-40 in my parts washer and it does a great job.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Terminology for name: Water Displacer Test #40 (WD-40).Robert

[pls1911]

WD 40 or other competitive brands are always around and handy.
However, you might consider keeping a dropper bottle oiler around with Ed's Red.
I've found it does a much better job than WD-40 and has better residual lubrication as well.
And, made by the gallon its no more expensive either.

[Hickok]

Had a guy bring me a Model 700 Remington 7 mm Magnum that would drop the firing pin every time he closed the bolt. Took the action out of the stock, and the trigger assembly/sear was gummed up. Sprayed it out with starting fluid/ether, lightly oiled, and it worked perfect.

Asked the guy what he used to clean his rifle with, "I just spray it down real good with WD-40.":groner:

I told him you are lucky the rifle even stays zeroed, and to keep the WD-40 away from the scope rings.

[44man]

When it first came out, I had a lot of wood working machines with painted bases. They would get dusty so I sprayed and wiped with WD-40. Next time to clean I found all were rusty.
I had to free up many bolt gun firing pins that stuck from using the stuff--YEAH, farmers that bought it in 55 gal drums to ruin field machines.

[bangerjim]

Worst stuff invented by man. Horrible ZERO lubricant properties. Says it eliminate squeaks.....so does water!. Or paint thinner. I do not allow the stuff in the shops.

There are many excellent penetrating/lube/cleaners available in wasteful (yet convenient for weekend handymen) spray cans or in bulk liquid form.

The stuff ranks down there in the basement with 3-in-1 oil!

bangerjim

[Mal Paso]

A can of WD40 around is a disaster waiting to happen. Too easy for someone to get helpful and spray it on something I love. and with so many really good products.

Marvel Mystery Oil has an addictive smell and is a good product.

Maybe there should be WD40 Patches and Gum for guys who can't get off the stuff. :lol:

[TXGunNut]

Used some tonight to lube/free a "door ajar" switch on my daily driver, beats replacing the latch. I keep a can around in case I get caught in a shower (or storm) with a hunting rifle. I'll wipe the gun down, warm it up a bit, and hose it down with WD-40. Then I finish the hunt. When I get home it gets detail stripped, cleaned and lubed.

[frkelly74]

WD 40 works well to clean roof tar and some kinds of really sticky caulk off your hands. I have heard of people using it to wash their fishing lures before they use them.

[varmint243]

I use it and have been using on my guns and other things for the last 41 years.
I've never had any of these problems reported here.
IMO - complete nonsense, if all the stories here were true I wouldn't have a single gun that was operable and rust free.
WD40 is a bit of a cleaner and crud cutter, and also good for helping things break loose.
I use WD40 for what it is good for, and I use other lubricants for lubricating, other protectants for storage, and penetrating stuff for penetrating.
WD40 has some good all around uses and has served me well over the years.
I especially love it as a crud blaster when cleaning my guns.
I have cans stationed all over the house, garage, and basement.
Call me a WD40 fanboy if you like.

[Grantb]

I use Ballistol rather than WD40 around the shop. It is good at removing rust, preventing rust, and does a descent job cleaning gun barrels.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I have used a product called "Clenzoil" for many years now to clean bores and to wipe down gun exteriors as it prevents rust. It looks to be green in the bottle but this is not visible when applied to metal. It cleans fouling well. It used to be sold in hardware stores which I where I once found it. There is a distributor network that can be found on the net. LLS

[Garyshome]

Keeps the car doors workin pretty well.

[mac266]

For my reloading presses I just use 3-in-1 oil.

[Petrol & Powder]

I have used a product called "Clenzoil" for many years now to clean bores and to wipe down gun exteriors as it prevents rust. It looks to be green in the bottle but this is not visible when applied to metal. It cleans fouling well. It used to be sold in hardware stores which I where I once found it. There is a distributor network that can be found on the net. LLS

Everyone has some favorite gun oil and Clenzoil became my favorite over 15 years ago. It works in any temperature, never gums up and does everything expected of a gun oil. It does seem to be something of a regional thing as far as distribution is concerned. A few select gun stores have it in stock but the internet is a better bet when trying to put your hands on it.
Clenzoil is a decent cleaner but I still reach for my can of Kroil when cleaning the bore although Clenzoil is almost as good.
RIG is still my #1 choice for long term protection of ferrous metal.
I keep a lot of oils & greases on the gun cleaning shelf but WD-40 is not one of them ! WD-40 has its place but not around guns!

[44man]

Ballistol is good stuff and can be mixed with water for a great BP cleaner. When the water dries, Ballistol is still there, working.
Back ages ago, all my friends swore by Clensoil in Ohio with a lot of moisture problems, good stuff.
I firmly believe WD-40 actually causes rust.
I also did a lot of locksmith work and nothing will gum up tumblers like WD-40. If you put anything in a lock, use the graphite lube.
Maybe Hoppe's is the best to remove WD-40.
I remember that every time I went to the farms to hunt, I had to help take apart frozen and rusted farm machines and is when I seen the drums of WD-40 in the barns.
I have used WD-40 to flush chips and to lube my cherries when cutting molds but they get washed with dish soap very soon after. You need to get it off and replace it. How it causes painted and plated surfaces to rust is a mystery. The base of the MEC is red painted and a dry rag turned red when I wiped it. I knew right off, the gum was WD-40! I cleaned the whole machine with Hoppe's and OOOO steel wool, then sprayed with barricade, looks like new. Some chrome plated spots are pitted but still cleaned up nicely. The junk ate chrome!

[dondiego]

It proved an excellent wasp killer at my cabin last summer. Spray it on a nest and they jut fall off!

[Hickok]

+1 on Ballistol.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I still use 3-in-1 oil for some minor lubing jobs, have used it for close to 70 years with no complaints as long as it is used as it should be. I also keep a small bottle of oil that is lighter in viscosity than 3-in-1 oil on my work/repair bench, Singer or White sewing machine lube oil. I get it at a sewing machine sales shop. Started using that as a young man and still use it in certain lube applications yet today. For keeping the outsides of my guns rust free I use Break Free. Got a quart size can of Marvel Mystery oil on the bench for light lube uses. Every lube agent that I have and use is for a certain use/purpose.Robert

[mdi]

I use WD 40 on my fishing reels and things that get cleaned regularly. Yep WD 40, after a time, will leave a gooey gunk behind, but I never got that long between cleanings. I have found WD 40 is good for at least 6 months and in some items a year isn't too long....

[SOFMatchstaff]

I use the "WD" for cutting oil on aluminum, works well and smells better than diesel, turning and milling, tapping too. It will free up stuff that's tight or stuck, but only to pave the way for a proper lubricant. NO guns of mine ever see the stuff up close with one exception, the belts on the 34 and 1919......

[blackthorn]

I use Simonize paste wax on the exterior of my rifles and Ed's Red without the acetone for the interior.

[SharpsShooter]

I use it and have been using on my guns and other things for the last 41 years.
I've never had any of these problems reported here.
IMO - complete nonsense, if all the stories here were true I wouldn't have a single gun that was operable and rust free.
WD40 is a bit of a cleaner and crud cutter, and also good for helping things break loose.
I use WD40 for what it is good for, and I use other lubricants for lubricating, other protectants for storage, and penetrating stuff for penetrating.
WD40 has some good all around uses and has served me well over the years.
I especially love it as a crud blaster when cleaning my guns.
I have cans stationed all over the house, garage, and basement.
Call me a WD40 fanboy if you like.

My sentiments exactly. The ideology of just spraying it down and call it clean is the culprit not the product. Used properly, over many many years, I've had not one problem.


SS

[JMax]

WD is great at removing sticky labels, on snow shovels to minimize snow sticking and of course Windex for killing wasps, their nests and stopping ant trails:evil:

[Blackwater]

I redid several M-12 Win's that had been in salt water in New Orleans after the hurricane. They were real challenges, but the guy who owned them (local Superior Court judge) was a busy man, and had typically sprayed WD-40 inside the actions to preserve them. In a way, that was fortuitous, because inside, that hard, waxy/concrete stuff that's left when the solvents evaporate away, did a pretty good job of keeping the raceways inside from rusting and pitting. They were literally like trying to get well adhered epoxy out, though. When I was finally done, they worked better than when new, and the judge said they did. He left with a huge smile on his face as he took each one home, but he never really knew how difficult it was to get them that way. It would have been easier to have dealt with some pitting and a bit more rust.

And yes, there ARE much better things out there, and I have WD-40 at home ONLY for its solvent content. There are MUCH better lubricants out there, and mostly, I prefer the synthetics that don't gum up nearly as bad as petro chemicals do. I like waxes for rust resistance. Just what I've found and used, and there's so much stuff out there now that there's no way to try it all.

[dragon813gt]

+1 on Ballistol.

Agree, just wish it wasn't so expensive. And while I've gotten used to the smell. It's still god awful. Any Ballistol rags get placed in an outside trash can immediately.

[Nueces]

After many years of keeping my eyes open, I finally landed a nice S&W New Century in 44 Special. It was new inside, but covered in rust freckles and patches, like psoriasis. That lack of visual appeal greatly lowered the price.

I put it on my desk along with a pump bottle of WD-40 and a tuft of 0000 steel wool. Using small forceps for the details, I gently rubbed it down several times a day, just carefully scratching away at each rust patch, very little pressure, using the steel wool wet with WD-40. By golly, the blue began to show up behind the rust.

I'm sure I tripled the value of the old iron by loving on it in this way. After this cleaning, I went over it with Ed's Red. It's now a beauty. Pics to follow if anyone cares to see them.

[Omega]

I always keep a can or three around. Never used it as a protectant though, mostly to loosen up lightly rusted screws and nuts. Though I have not personally tested it, the WD-40 Specialist is said to be a great protectant. It rated up in the top five in a field test if I remember right.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Release-Penetrant-Spray/dp/B0083V8JP6

[jonp]

Agree, just wish it wasn't so expensive. And while I've gotten used to the smell. It's still god awful. Any Ballistol rags get placed in an outside trash can immediately.

Hush your mouth

[jonp]

After many years of keeping my eyes open, I finally landed a nice S&W New Century in 44 Special. It was new inside, but covered in rust freckles and patches, like psoriasis. That lack of visual appeal greatly lowered the price.

I put it on my desk along with a pump bottle of WD-40 and a tuft of 0000 steel wool. Using small forceps for the details, I gently rubbed it down several times a day, just carefully scratching away at each rust patch, very little pressure, using the steel wool wet with WD-40. By golly, the blue began to show up behind the rust.

I'm sure I tripled the value of the old iron by loving on it in this way. After this cleaning, I went over it with Ed's Red. It's now a beauty. Pics to follow if anyone cares to see them.
I sure do

[jonp]

Like most here ive tried everything under the sun at one time or another.

"Hey, you tried frog lube? They use it on the space station!"

I like ballistol and use it but ive yet to beat plain old Hoppes 9 and Rem Oil for guns. Kroil works great for sticky stuff and swabing a barrel before chore boy

[opos]

For a number of years I've restored antique farm hit and miss engines..many are "frozen" solid with rust and crud from many years of sitting under a tree or in a barn....The main thing I use is Kano Kroil for all things stuck, rusty, cruddy and just in need of help...I don't use WD40 for anything at all....I used to fish in salt water a lot and guys would ruin perfectly good reels using WD 40 on them....it displaced the water but left the metal "exposed" with no protection and simply soaked the drag washers making them unusable...

I have cleaned up a boat load of old Mosins and Makarov pistols over the years....I use a product called Smith and Wesson gel...they have it in aerosol cans (too much waste) and small squeeze bottles (think they are 4 oz)....I bought a case of the small bottles long ago and really like it for anything that is the least bit stubborn...it can stay in a bore over night with no harm...I've been known to use a stainless steel tornado brush on bad bores...have brought back many sewer pipes with it...then some Kroil with elbow grease and then CLP as a final clean/lube.....anything but WD 40 on my stuff....and I live in San Diego where it was invented for the Aerospace industry.

[44man]

I always keep a can or three around. Never used it as a protectant though, mostly to loosen up lightly rusted screws and nuts. Though I have not personally tested it, the WD-40 Specialist is said to be a great protectant. It rated up in the top five in a field test if I remember right.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Release-Penetrant-Spray/dp/B0083V8JP6
Not the normal everyday WD-40. They actually have a super product that works but I have not found any.

[dragon813gt]

Like most here ive tried everything under the sun at one time or another.

"Hey, you tried frog lube? They use it on the space station!"

I like ballistol and use it but ive yet to beat plain old Hoppes 9 and Rem Oil for guns. Kroil works great for sticky stuff and swabing a barrel before chore boy

No frog lube here. I maintain my firearms and don't need a new wonder product. I will use Hoppes if there is a good bit of fouling. But it's a solvent and you have to watch what it touches. The great thing about Ballistol is that it's safe on every surface. It's not the best cleaner, lube or preservative. But if you routinely maintain your firearms it's hard to beat. Except when it comes to the odor department ;)

[whisler]

Have to agree on Ballistol; works great, smells terrible!

[wmitty]

I worked with millwrights in chemical plants who used it to clean the faces of mechanical seals in centrifugal pumps. We also found it useful in cleaning our hands. Fairly good to start a fire with, but not much else.

[jonp]

Not the normal everyday WD-40. They actually have a super product that works but I have not found any.

There is or was a special on all of the WD40 Specialist products. I saw a display at Lowes of them and bought the Lithium Grease to keep in my semi for stubborn sliders. The cans had a coupon on them for a full refund of the product. Free stuff! Never tried them before or even seen them but free is free.

[smokeywolf]

I use G96, LPS, Ballistol and Kroil on rifle, pistol, fishing gear and other sporting goods and mineral or camellia oil routinely on my straight razors which are high carbon steel and go into the shower with me.

As I understood it, WD-40 was mostly #1 diesel fuel with an aromatic added and a few other little chemicals. Just like when diesel fuel dries, it leaves a yellowish brown crust behind which does little to protect the surface on which it was deposited.

Haven't owned a can of the stuff in decades.

[44man]

Did you know jet fuel grows bugs in it and airplane tanks need cleaned now and then?

[labradigger1]

I liked the older version of wd-40. You could run a 2 stroke engine on the old formula. I myself am a fan of wd-40 and I use it for what it is made for, a penetrating lubricant, water displacement and bug spray. If I get my gun soaked when hunting it gets sprayed with a coat of wd-40 then stood in a corner to dry a bit. Wd-40 is not a lubricant and should not be used as one. Some people claim it removes the blueing from guns, my guns may be some super metal because they are still like new in regards to the blu.
Lubricating gun parts I fall suit with garand procedures. Light grease for things that slide, oil for things that rotate.

[Nueces]

Hokay, here are photos of my Smith New Century Triplelock 44 Special. You can see remnants of the skin ailments, but there are still large areas of pristine century old blue. It boasts a 3 digit serial number. I like it!

156190156191

[xd45forever]

A friend of mine is a shop foreman at a factory where they recondition the machines they build. His guys swear by a 50/50 mixture of heptane ( brake cleaner ) which they buy bulk and ATF they swear it's better than any penetrating oil you can buy! May have to give it a try.

[dragon813gt]

50/50 Acetone and ATF came out on top as the best penetrating oil in a scientific test.

[singleshot]

I use wd40 in the winter to start my tractor and to clean my hands. It's good starting fluid for diesels and a cleaner, but not a lube or rust inhibitor.

[daniel lawecki]

LPS solvents and wipes our sales rep knows I shoot. The other day he brought in gun wipes and asked if I would try they. Well there still on my reloading bench. I have never use WD-40 in the 31 years building machinery for very large companies in North America and South America. I'll stick to Shooter Choice, Rem oil and such.

[mongoose33]

I have a particularly good use for WD-40. We put out our garbage at the curb in plastic garbage bags. On garbage day animals/birds will sometimes tear holes in the bag to get at what's inside.

Now what I do is add one squirt of WD-40 to the insides just before I close up the bag. Whatever is poking at the bag to get what's inside doesn't like WD-40, and the odor inside drives them away.

[randyrat]

But wait there is hope for WD40 (Specialty) it works real good. But, it is tough to have a black sheep in the family called WD40 which is more of a solvent/ cleaner/ water displace but worthless as a lube .

[Bayou52]

For my reloading presses I just use 3-in-1 oil.

For my reloading presses, I find that Marvel Mystery Oil is a superb lubricant with very high detergent qualities. The stuff is extremely high detergent - the reason it works so well in gasoline engines. The high detergent in the MMO really cleans out powder residue in the press joints and on the ram. Works very well. I just put a little in a drop bottle and apply a few drops to the area. Let it set for a while, and you'll see the powder/carbon residue flowing out of the affected area.

Bayou52

[lightload]

I don't like my neighbor's cat, and spray him with WD-40 at every opportunity. The dear animal recently had his 19th birthday so the stuff must be good for him. He gives me ring worm.

[wmitty]

lightload

that cat's a combat veteran! spray him with the water hose and see if the water is dispersed by the WD...

[leadman]

Been awhile since I looked at the MSDS sheet for WD40 but it is/was about 90% Stoddard Solvent (mineral spirits). The flash point of the original solvent was 100 degrees but government got involved and and they had to change to 140 degree flash point to reduce vocs.
At one time they used propane as a propellant, until a guy got his can stuck on the battery post of his starter and it blew up. Last I knew they were using a form of Freon, possiblity 134a as a propellant. This could be the residue that is being left on objects now.

[Mal Paso]

50/50 Acetone and ATF came out on top as the best penetrating oil in a scientific test.

And around here it comes in a spray can.

[MtGun44]

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It is NOT a preservative. It is ONLY good for
displacing water and temporarily protecting and drying whatever was wet.

[rsrocket1]

I use WD-40 to lubricate the sawzall as it cuts through lead. Works great. Then again, maybe anything helps reduce the friction of the blade face against the lead. I probably could have used maple syrup, but cleanup would have been a little sticky.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj96/rsrocket1/Shoot/ca9ee4f0-81b7-4083-98ba-6bfb50b51b4e_zps98ffcaf5.jpg

[murf205]

Try Singer sewing machine oil at Wally World. Good thin lubricant with not much or no odor at all.

[Walkingwolf]

I use it and have been using on my guns and other things for the last 41 years.
I've never had any of these problems reported here.
IMO - complete nonsense, if all the stories here were true I wouldn't have a single gun that was operable and rust free.
WD40 is a bit of a cleaner and crud cutter, and also good for helping things break loose.
I use WD40 for what it is good for, and I use other lubricants for lubricating, other protectants for storage, and penetrating stuff for penetrating.
WD40 has some good all around uses and has served me well over the years.
I especially love it as a crud blaster when cleaning my guns.
I have cans stationed all over the house, garage, and basement.
Call me a WD40 fanboy if you like.


I agree, while it is not my only tool for guns, it has worked well without problems. I have been using it for over 30 years. Somehow I get the feeling that there is lube snobs, just like gun snobs. Don't like it, don't use it, but don't feed me BS when I know better. I find some of the cheapest stuff makes the best gun protection, like Johnson's past wax.

I had more problems with Balistol than WD40, only stuff to cause my guns to rust. My guns get lubed once a year, with the old stuff that our grandfathers used. I have had no problems with rusting guns. Maybe instead of expensive latest fad oil, the guns should be stored in a dry place.

Salt, and humidity are the primary causes of excessive rust. Cars sit here in the south in junk yards for decades without rusting out, yet up north it happens in a matter of a few years.

[waksupi]

I've "fixed" more guns for people who had dowsed them with WD40 for years, than any other lube. Always the same, brownish colored varnish build up.

[richhodg66]

I go through a lot of it cleaning motorcycle chains. Works well for that, but I put a drop of heavy motor oil on each link after the WD-40 has disolved the gunk off.

[dubber123]

I've "fixed" more guns for people who had dowsed them with WD40 for years, than any other lube. Always the same, brownish colored varnish build up.

I "fixed" a model 70 Winchester that fired when the bolt was closed. The owner stated it needed a new trigger. I pulled it down, and found a thick layer of super hard brown varnish. I couln't even get brake cleaner to touch it. I had to physically scrape it off with a razor blade, at which point it worked just fine. Guess what it got hosed down with every deer season? :)

[BrentD]

I always find it strange, all the folks that hate WD-40. It works for me, always has. None of these maladies has ever been a problem with any of my 30+ firearms. Strange.

[bangerjim]

I use WD-40 to lubricate the sawzall as it cuts through lead. Works great. Then again, maybe anything helps reduce the friction of the blade face against the lead. I probably could have used maple syrup, but cleanup would have been a little sticky.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj96/rsrocket1/Shoot/ca9ee4f0-81b7-4083-98ba-6bfb50b51b4e_zps98ffcaf5.jpg

ANY liquid will do the same thing. Even wax or soap is better than WD-40.

[Walkingwolf]

WD 40 contains no chemical compounds to cause rust, if a gun is rusting it is from exposure to those compounds that do cause corrosion. In other words poor gun care.

[dondiego]

WD-40 is a solvent and can remove/dissolve metal rust protectants (oil, grease) which can allow rust to form, which gave WD-40 the bad name for "causing" rust.

[prs]

I go through a lot of it cleaning motorcycle chains. Works well for that, but I put a drop of heavy motor oil on each link after the WD-40 has disolved the gunk off.

I use WD for cycle chain cleaning too. Soft rag to wipe as I roll the chain around and douse with the WD. When chain is clean (and it cleans FAST) and WD still wet, I use Husqvarna or Stihl saw chain lube to work into the side plates by hand. The WD solvent evaps and the oil has been carried into the tightest of places where it clings as it is supposed too.

I have also used WD-40 to clean away the dried brown varnish left by previously applied WD. But, then I apply a real lube/protectant.

prs

[tygar]

My father thought it was the be all end all, many cans left. Works good removing label remains, that is about all I use it for till it is all gone. Oh, and it's fun to smoke bugs with the red tube installed and a lighter!

WD40 is used extensively as a spray for trout/salmon lures, fish eggs etc. in AK

[quasi]

WD 40 is a pretty good cleaner on some things. It also penetrates your skin and gets in your blood stream instantly. Cannabis users who do not smoke simply soak their cannabis in WD40, and rub it on their armpits (or other areas where your skin is thin and soft) and the effect is immediate.

[N4AUD]

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It is NOT a preservative. It is ONLY good for
displacing water and temporarily protecting and drying whatever was wet.
It is a great degreaser. I worked at a factory as a 200 ton press operator right after I got out of the Air Force in the late 80's. When we changed tooling, there would be a lot of grease that would get all over you, but a setup man showed me how WD40 would dissolve all that grease. One moral to that story is don't ever use it on anything that REQUIRES grease, 'cause it will run off like melting ice cream.
I just got my first can of Balistoll, and I love it so far, mainly because it isn't toxic. I've got CLR, Rem-Oil, Ed's Red, Balistoll, Kroil, Hoppes, Lubriplate, 3-in-1, and WD40 in my cleaning kit (among others) and they all have their uses.

[azrednek]

WD40 is good for displacing moisture, but as 44man says, there are better things for long-term protection. Personally, I like RIG.

Hope I'm not being redundant as I didn't read every post. WD-40 as the ol'saying goes, it ain't what it used to be. WD-40's formula changed after the feds made them remove Freon. In the 70's before the change. WD-40 was apx 90% kerosene with a small amount of fish oil and a strong perfume to cover the fish stench. The Freon based WD-40 was indeed great for displacing moisture and was a favorite of auto mechanics to dry the interior of damp distributer caps. If you tried it with today's formula you'd wind up with an oily mess. I'm told but can't say for certain. WD-40 now uses an alcohol based evaporant similar to brake-clean that is no where near as effective as Freon.

[bangerjim]

Many useful things have been forced to be change "to protect the children". Sad. All the good stuff is now milk-toast.

I still have a couple gallons of TCE. Best degreaser ever made by man. Now everything is that orange-based garbage that is "green".

Sad............just plain sad. Thanks liberals.

banger

[DanM]

I use WD-40 for cleaning the plastic bodywork on the 4-wheelers. Works great and leaves a nice shine. Don't have any in the gunroom although it is OK for light cleaning if you don't leave it on the metal for storage. Old formula WD-40 used butane as a propellant and worked well as a starting fluid in small engines. Don't know what the propellant is now but it won't work as a starting fluid anymore.

[azrednek]

WD-40's "contains petroleum distillates" on every can is misleading but I guess its better than saying contains perfumed kerosene. Seems to be much negative experience are about using WD-40 on guns. When I worked as an outside salesman for an automotive warehouse distributor. Sporting good and gun shops bought as much, if not more WD-40 as any other retail channel. I had an Arizona sporting good chain that used to order numerous cases bi-annually. They occasionally used it as a lost leader, selling at or below cost in their print advertising. As a commissioned salesman I for one wouldn't argue about what is best. WD-40 has brand name recognition.

Although there are better, WD-40 still does a good job as an overnight penetrating oil but so does Coca Cola. I keep a can on my loading bench as it is great for melting the build-up of waxy bullet lubes out of seating and crimping dies. It also works great for starting a charcoal fire in a barbeque. Seems to penetrate into the briquettes better than ordinary charcoal lighter. Although there are probably many different and probably better. I haven't found anything better for removing old duct tape than WD-40.

[Ken77539]

Back when I was just a young buck fresh out of high school I worked in a paint and body shop. WD-40 was great at removing road tar from car finishes. Of course, once the tar was off you had to apply a good coat of wax, but it never damaged the finish. A few years later, I had a 1978 Chevy LUV truck that was notorious for collecting moisture in the distributor cap. Got a little impatient one day and didn't let the cap fully dry out. I went to start the engine and promptly blew the side of the distributor cap off! I still keep a can of it around the garage, but for rust prevention on my guns and tools I reach for my can of B-C Barricade.

For long-term storage of loading dies I give them a good coating of LPS-3. They can be a pain to clean when needed, but they won't be rusty.

[44man]

LPS-3 is the very best to use in BP guns. It forms a waxy surface that does no harm to loads. Not the gum of WD-40. I just wipe with a patch, snap a few caps and load.
If you want to drive out moisture, CRC 2-26 is best. Cleans electric contacts and also lubes them.

[DrDucati]

So, are you all suggesting that WD-40 is not the best rust prevention/lubricant?

:bigsmyl2:

[BrentD]

Did you guys actually read that article and look at the results? I'll take every day WD 40 over most of the snake oil being promoted here.

[Walkingwolf]

Did you guys actually read that article and look at the results? I'll take every day WD 40 over most of the snake oil being promoted here.

Me too, I find it amazing that some folks are having so much problems with a product, and others have not. That would indicate there is some difference in other factors of the gun storage.

I clean with hot soapy water, dry, and lube with either 3 in 1, WD-40, or Johnson's paste wax. Some of my guns have been in the cabinet for years without reapplication, and without corrosion. Things that make you go hmmmmmmm?

Also rumors get repeated long enough, and loud enough are mistaken for fact, but they are still rumors.

[BrentD]

Walkingwolf - I think the saying might be - "it ain't the arrow, it's the indian"

These stories about WD40 have been the polar opposites of what I have experienced in some near 50 yrs of gun owning and cleaning. While the stuff I have used has worked well, I'll be looking for Frog Lube and WD40 Specialist from now on. Hard to argue with those results. Eezox and Ballistol are never going to get anywhere near my firearms.

[flint45]

works ok for me light cleaning taking off price tags etc. i never buy it people give it to me gifts etc.I do think the old stuff was better then agin so was alot of stuff.

[superc]

IME WD-40 and guns have no place in the same room. I used to work at an agency where we had a firing range and we fired .38 revolvers by the hundreds there on the days the range was open. Users were then told to give their gun a cleaning with WD-40 and some patches before reloading and leaving. Some bean counter decided money could be saved by just buying WD-40 instead of continuing to buy Hoppes and oil. Over the next year our agency soon had over a half dozen reports coming off the streets about misfires of both types (i.e., primers that didn't detonate, or powder that didn't fully ignite even though the primer had gone off). Likewise on our range we experienced a marked increase in misfires. Eventually someone realized or learned the WD 40 was seeping into the primer mix and rendering it inert. We tossed the WD 40 and went back to Hoppes 9 and later to Outers. The misfires stopped as did the reports of them. In my home the only thing I use WD 40 for is spraying down my mill table when I am not using it, or loosening rusted bolts on the underside of my 30 year old truck.

[Walkingwolf]

Put a tub of dry rice in the bottom of your gun cabinet, change it every year. Sorry no fancy name for rice, just the cheap stuff for a buck or two in Wally World. If you do not want your tactikewl buddies to know you are using rice poke holes in a lid for the tub, and print a fancy label for the tub. Maybe call it tactical dryer.

Any penetrating oil might penetrate primers in excess. The problem of the misfires is not WD-40, it is IQ-40.

I do admit they need to change the name to Tactikewl-40, then it will be the rave of tactical gun owners who watch youtube videos, and believe everything on the internet.

[DrDucati]

On my first glance of the above I read "dry ice" and started to think, "oh, so the carbon dioxide keeps the oxygen away thereby preventing.." before doing a double take. LoL

[Walkingwolf]

On my first glance of the above I read "dry ice" and started to think, "oh, so the carbon dioxide keeps the oxygen away thereby preventing.." before doing a double take. LoL

I had to put the "dry" in the post, because some tactikewl gun owner might cook the rice first. IOW KISS, instead of making it complicated, or expensive.

In a very humid climate one might have to seal the doors of the safe with jam tape/seal from the hardware store. Unless they can find some tactical seal recommended by Massad Ayoob at a tactikewl gun shop, or online. My cabinet is not sealed, but the room is air conditioned during the humid summer months. I would like a tactical air conditioner, but opted for just a standard Hair windows instead.

Remember the more money we pay for a product means it works better, and is more tactikewl. LMAO!

[44man]

Live up north, buy a car and pay for rust proofing, Yeah the German Alox spray where they drilled holes all over and sprayed the junk. Can't remember the name but cars rusted FASTER because it hardened and water got under it with all the road salt. Oh yeah Z-Bart.
My gunsmith experience has run into WD-40 too many times. It is like Alox, hate or love. some actually shoot Z- Bart.

[BrentD]

On my first glance of the above I read "dry ice" and started to think, "oh, so the carbon dioxide keeps the oxygen away thereby preventing.." before doing a double take. LoL

That is funny. I had exactly the same thought at first glance.

[dragon813gt]

One of the big issues w/ WD-40 is triggers. It is not a rumor that it will gum up the works. It dries to a hard brown varnish. Repeated application to a trigger leads to it not working. Is this user error, absolutely. But it's also a poor product to use on a firearm.

I have to laugh at the last Ballistol comment. Do some research to see when and why it was created. It is for firearms. We are all free to use what we want. I will stick w/ a proven product that's a century old.

One last note. If you live in the rust belt you need to choose the right product. If you don't than any old product will most likely work.

[BrentD]

It is a rumor in my books; actually it's a total falsehood. I have no gum, no varnish, nothing but nicely lubed steel in any of my triggers, and I am more than just a little bit particular about my triggers too.

Oh yeah, I live in the rust belt...

[Walkingwolf]

It is a rumor in my books; actually it's a total falsehood. I have no gum, no varnish, nothing but nicely lubed steel in any of my triggers, and I am more than just a little bit particular about my triggers too.

Oh yeah, I live in the rust belt...

Ditto, most of WD runs off, the rest dries to a very thin layer, never had any varnish what so ever. In fact one must be careful not to remove oils from wood stocks with WD. That is the only thing where I see a potential problem. The truth is WD cleans deposits from metal like tar from gasoline on carburetors without damaging the hoses. I use to use it to clean road grime off my Harley, and protect the bike from salt air in the Florida Keys.

Also used WD on outboard motors after rinsing salt off, not one ounce of powder corrosion on the alum blocks. My motors when I sold them looked brand new under the hood.

[rsrocket1]

ANY liquid will do the same thing. Even wax or soap is better than WD-40.

Yeah, but does wax or soap come premixed in it's own can with a tube applicator?

I recall how I told an old coot "WD-40 stands for 'water displacement 40th attempt'". He replied "you know how this displaces water?" and he stuck the applicator tube into a water filled hole and blasted out the water with the spray and said "that's how"

[Down South]

I haven't bought a can of WD 40 in many years. I discovered long ago that it was worthless for firearms use and pretty much anything else as far as I'm concerned. Cleaning something with it would be OK I guess.
There are a number of good products out there that actually work. Break Free was mentioned and I have several cans of that along with a few other products.
The product that replaced WD 40 for me was Aerokroil. I use it for cleaning sometimes and spraying on sieged bolts/parts. I do not use it for a rust preventive even though it states on the can it is good for cleaning and preventing rust for firearms.
If I remember correctly, a number of years ago, I sprayed a small piece of metal plate in my shop with WD 40. I checked the piece of plate sometime later and it was completely dry, no oily residue. To me it is completely useless for moving parts other than a short fix until a better lubricant can be found.

[Walkingwolf]

I haven't bought a can of WD 40 in many years. I discovered long ago that it was worthless for firearms use and pretty much anything else as far as I'm concerned. Cleaning something with it would be OK I guess.
There are a number of good products out there that actually work. Break Free was mentioned and I have several cans of that along with a few other products.
The product that replaced WD 40 for me was Aerokroil. I use it for cleaning sometimes and spraying on sieged bolts/parts. I do not use it for a rust preventive even though it states on the can it is good for cleaning and preventing rust for firearms.
If I remember correctly, a number of years ago, I sprayed a small piece of metal plate in my shop with WD 40. I checked the piece of plate sometime later and it was completely dry, no oily residue. To me it is completely useless for moving parts other than a short fix until a better lubricant can be found.

Yea I have that happen with Johnson's paste wax, completely dry, no oily residue. I have used it for years with no corrosion what so ever.

[44man]

My wood saws are in the garage and the cast iron can see some rust. I clean it and spray with furniture wax. Any good paste wax works but the day I put WD-40 on them will be the day I sell them. Some other sucker can deal with it!

[BrentD]

Such amazing hate for WD40.... Still workin' good for me.

[Walkingwolf]

Such amazing hate for WD40.... Still workin' good for me.
Just don't bring up Hi Points...

[David2011]

I love WD-40. I charge good money to clean firearms that have been treated with it. The old WD-40 did not claim on the label to be a lubricant. The new one does. The old one WOULD dry out a wet distributor. Every boat on the Gulf Coast that had a gasoline engine carried WD-40 and it worked. The new one is best used as a solvent and cleaner. As was said, it's great for removing adhesive residue and remnants of itself. Storage conditions may account for WD-40 gumming in some applications and not others. I don't know but those saying it doesn't happen can only speak for themselves. I no longer use it and haven't for probably 20 years. Kroil and Aerokroil are the best penetrants I've personally used. They're what Liquid Wrench and Knock 'er Loose would like to be. I do not consider the Kroil products to be lubricants after trying to use Kroil as a high pressure lubricant ONCE. The tight fitting parts (pin in a tight bore, interference fit) locked together almost instantly and took a great deal of pressure to separate.

A friend stored some CRC in an aerosol can in the top of his closet. It laid in one position unmoved for years. He was unable to get into that closet late in life because of physical ailments. The can corroded (ironic) and the propellant corroded everything within about 16" of it including loaded ammo and firearms. The evidence was the corroded can with a pinhole and some liquid but no propellant present. The muzzle of a black powder revolver was turned to fuzzy rust for about 1-1/2" back from the end but fortunately it polished off with fine steel wool and oil. The gun had not been fired so pretty sure it wasn't black powder corrosion and EVERYTHING in that radius was damaged.

For those that don't need a newer better product: are you still driving on bias ply tires? Frog Lube is an amazing product. It has great lubricity without being high viscosity. It doesn't get thick in freezing temperatures. It will remain a useful product in my shop.

I've used a fair amount of Rem-Oil but am not a fan. Its hang time is poor but that may be by design. The oil evaporates pretty quickly leaving only the Teflon behind. I prefer a lubricant that stays on the surfaces where I put it.

Just my opinions. . .

David

[quasi]

Frog lube has thickened for me in the cold. Frog Lube is re badged Soy lube 100.

[David2011]

How cold was it? I've only had one really (to me) cold morning- 19 degrees above F and the bolt still ran ok.

David

[quasi]

about -25 C

[Walkingwolf]

There is a simple solution to the lube problem. Buy, and use what YOU like, then let others do the same. I have as much use, and patience for lube snobs as I do gun snobs.

It really doesn't matter what you think, or claim, only I. You can whine about WD-40 until your teeth fall out, it is not going to change that others use it successfully.

[Down South]

No problem here, use WD 40 until they run out of it. I'll use something different myself.

[DrDucati]

WD-40: "web discussion", the "40" representing the usual number of pages people argue over whether it be for good or evil.

[45-70 Chevroner]

I use it and have been using on my guns and other things for the last 41 years.
I've never had any of these problems reported here.
IMO - complete nonsense, if all the stories here were true I wouldn't have a single gun that was operable and rust free.
WD40 is a bit of a cleaner and crud cutter, and also good for helping things break loose.
I use WD40 for what it is good for, and I use other lubricants for lubricating, other protectants for storage, and penetrating stuff for penetrating.
WD40 has some good all around uses and has served me well over the years.
I especially love it as a crud blaster when cleaning my guns.
I have cans stationed all over the house, garage, and basement.
Call me a WD40 fanboy if you like.

"Dito"

[quilbilly]

It is a great cleaner of tree resin and has done a great job for me preserving the chains on my chainsaws after cutting wet logs then sharpening. I also use it on my Arkansas stones for sharpening oil. Earlier formulations made great attractors for fish bait and anglers used to soak their herring bait in it before fishing for spring chinook in the Columbia River. I knew fishing guides who bought it by the bucket. I don't think newer formulations are as good for that purpose.

[dudel]

Just don't bring up Hi Points...

Or Lee FCDs!

[tomf52]

I am truly amazed that after all the years I have been around guns and gun people and on different forums I have never once heard reference to Carwell CP 90. It is a corrosion preventative oil sold in everything from 12 pump spray bottles to 55 gal drums. If used as directed, which is a simple process, you will never ,ever have rust on anything it is applied to. Works great to prevent that green corrosion that occurs on automotive electrical connections, battery terminals, in door panels, and under chassis applications. Once it is applied and allowed to sit for 24 hours the residual amount left can be wiped or hosed off and protection remains. I spray the underside of my cars and get ZERO rust. About $55 a gallon from their website but a gallon goes a long way. I can't attest to it's qualities as a bore solvent as I have never for some reason tried it for that. Google it and try it, you will be happy with it.

[FLHTC]

I am truly amazed that after all the years I have been around guns and gun people and on different forums I have never once heard reference to Carwell CP 90. It is a corrosion preventative oil sold in everything from 12 pump spray bottles to 55 gal drums. If used as directed, which is a simple process, you will never ,ever have rust on anything it is applied to. Works great to prevent that green corrosion that occurs on automotive electrical connections, battery terminals, in door panels, and under chassis applications. Once it is applied and allowed to sit for 24 hours the residual amount left can be wiped or hosed off and protection remains. I spray the underside of my cars and get ZERO rust. About $55 a gallon from their website but a gallon goes a long way. I can't attest to it's qualities as a bore solvent as I have never for some reason tried it for that. Google it and try it, you will be happy with it.
maybe the real issue is where to get it. I just bought a can of WD40 the other day. That and Kroil are all I use

[Jpholla]

I tried WD-40 as a cutting fluid on the lathe and was shocked at how well it worked--especially using the parting tool on tough alloys that tend to work-harden as they're cut. The aerosol can with straw makes a handy applicator. I've tried some generic versions but they do not work anywhere near as well. I also agree it makes a pretty good solvent, and agree that there are much better lubricants out there. I have also seen steel rust after prolonged storage with a heavy coating of WD-40 on it.

I had an uncle who was a die-hard fisherman. He said the first time he encountered it was in Vietnam being used as a solvent on missile parts. He said he saw more fishing reels ruined by it than anything else, and he always explained to his fishing buddies that if they would lubricate their reels after cleaning them with WD-40 they wouldn't wear so quickly.

I believe people who clean their guns more than they shoot them or are simply meticulous about it are the ones who don't have problems. The people who shoot their gun once in a Blue Moon and think that hosing it down with WD-40 and putting it in the closet is proper cleaning are the ones who keep gunsmiths in business. Most problems are caused by ignorance, stupidity, and laziness. In the gun world or elsewhere.

[44man]

I tried WD-40 as a cutting fluid on the lathe and was shocked at how well it worked--especially using the parting tool on tough alloys that tend to work-harden as they're cut. The aerosol can with straw makes a handy applicator. I've tried some generic versions but they do not work anywhere near as well. I also agree it makes a pretty good solvent, and agree that there are much better lubricants out there. I have also seen steel rust after prolonged storage with a heavy coating of WD-40 on it.

I had an uncle who was a die-hard fisherman. He said the first time he encountered it was in Vietnam being used as a solvent on missile parts. He said he saw more fishing reels ruined by it than anything else, and he always explained to his fishing buddies that if they would lubricate their reels after cleaning them with WD-40 they wouldn't wear so quickly.

I believe people who clean their guns more than they shoot them or are simply meticulous about it are the ones who don't have problems. The people who shoot their gun once in a Blue Moon and think that hosing it down with WD-40 and putting it in the closet is proper cleaning are the ones who keep gunsmiths in business. Most problems are caused by ignorance, stupidity, and laziness. In the gun world or elsewhere.
True, use it, then go to proper rust preventatives and lubes after you wipe it off. But don't spray in holes where it can harden. Nothing worse then a firing pin frozen in.
Want to have fun, spray in in your car door locks. Might as well weld tumblers.
Original better, not on my watch, it rusted stuff FAST.
I have used it as a flush and cutting oil but water soluble oil is better and will not cause rust with WATER in it.

[Rifle 57]

Did you know jet fuel grows bugs in it and airplane tanks need cleaned now and then?
Yes and diesel fuel storage can get algae in them and if you get it in your diesel engine you got problems.

[mac60]

Or Lee FCDs!

Oh no! I buy WD40 by the gallon, own a HI POINT and have a Lee FCD for every cartridge I load for!

[Screwbolts]

WD40 and it's Walmart clones are great for keeping the pitch off of Bandmill blades.

Ken

[BrentD]

Yes and diesel fuel storage can get algae in them and if you get it in your diesel engine you got problems.
Not algae. Bacteria perhaps. But not algae, unless you have clear gas tanks. You gotta have light to have an alga.

someone should write a book about WD-40 stories.

[dudel]

someone should write a book about WD-40 stories.

Done! http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Tony-Dierckins/dp/1887317155

[Rifle 57]

Not algae. Bacteria perhaps. But not algae, unless you have clear gas tanks. You gotta have light to have an alga.


someone should write a book about WD-40 stories.
Yes bacteria I could not think of the word.
Thanks Brent

[JNG3]

What in the world..................???????? I use wd40 often. I have never seen rust, pitting, varnish, gumming, frozen tumblers, corrosion, etc, etc, etc. My goodness after reading this thread one would think that wd40 is the devils spawn. I'll continue to use it where I deem it appropriate.

[waksupi]

I think a lot of the cause of various peoples results from WD 40 may be environmental. Just as some lube works well for one and not others, it could be influenced by prevailing conditions. In this area, it is very dry, and it does indeed varnish with time. I suspect in wetter climates, there may be enough ambient humidity to make it function differently.

[Walkingwolf]

What in the world..................???????? I use wd40 often. I have never seen rust, pitting, varnish, gumming, frozen tumblers, corrosion, etc, etc, etc. My goodness after reading this thread one would think that wd40 is the devils spawn. I'll continue to use it where I deem it appropriate.

IMO this is nothing more than the same reaction to caliber wars, bullet type wars, gun make wars. It is control issues, where one, or a group of people want to decide for others. It is amazing the stretch of stories they use to rationalize the control issues.

I was unaware there were Lee FCD haters, I also use them successfully. But then I owned Ramblers(American Motors), wife owns a Hi Point, and we own Glocks as well. One of those people that own a Rossi, and sometimes even carry it. I probably own, or do all that voodoo things that bug the internet purists. I admit, and it is a vice, that I take some pleasure in seeing some so impotent at pushing their values on others. One of the reasons I like to poke fun at bible thumpers.

Forgot to add I have actually bought, and drove Fords for those Chevy fanbois. At one time I owned several of both.

I take no responsibility for sudden loss of respiration, or panic attacks.:kidding:

[Blackwater]

I think the popularity of WD-40 basically comes from the efforts of the Madison Ave. advertisers and most folks' lack of real interest in knowing anything beyond the very minimum necessary for "right now." Add in the Wal Mart/Burger King "have it your way" mentality of wanting things to be cheap AND universally applicable, and presto! You have a decent product that has become the icon that WD-40 has become. The old jokes about rednecks using duct tape to stop things from moving that want to move, and WD-40 to make things move that don't want to, kind'a reflects this mentality that pervades our culture today.

And the best thing is, that for most folks' purposes, it works well enough to let them "get by" with it. When it comes to guns and gun work, though, we really NEED to learn a little more about lubricants. It's a rather boring subject to me, and I've been dragged into it to the limited degree I have by others, a lot of them here, who have the specialized knowledge to separate the wheat from the chaff. Thanks to all of you who've contributed to what I've come to know about lubes and oils and greases. It really IS a lot more interesting once you get your feet wet with a little info about the options and applications.

Add in the fact that manufacturers don't usually WANT to reveal WHY they make the claims they do about what their products will do, and you have a situation where it's hard to actually find out what the differences are. But the info IS out there, and is valuable.

And it's great to have a source like this board where we CAN learn this stuff from those who have the specialized knowledge and experience to teach the rest of us the differences and proper uses of lubes and geases, etc. Thanks to all of you, and please, keep up the great work!

[BrentD]

What is a Lee FCD anyway? I must be missing out, and I don't know what a Hi Point is either.

[Walkingwolf]

I think the popularity of WD-40 basically comes from the efforts of the Madison Ave. advertisers and most folks' lack of real interest in knowing anything beyond the very minimum necessary for "right now." Add in the Wal Mart/Burger King "have it your way" mentality of wanting things to be cheap AND universally applicable, and presto! You have a decent product that has become the icon that WD-40 has become. The old jokes about rednecks using duct tape to stop things from moving that want to move, and WD-40 to make things move that don't want to, kind'a reflects this mentality that pervades our culture today.

And the best thing is, that for most folks' purposes, it works well enough to let them "get by" with it. When it comes to guns and gun work, though, we really NEED to learn a little more about lubricants. It's a rather boring subject to me, and I've been dragged into it to the limited degree I have by others, a lot of them here, who have the specialized knowledge to separate the wheat from the chaff. Thanks to all of you who've contributed to what I've come to know about lubes and oils and greases. It really IS a lot more interesting once you get your feet wet with a little info about the options and applications.

Add in the fact that manufacturers don't usually WANT to reveal WHY they make the claims they do about what their products will do, and you have a situation where it's hard to actually find out what the differences are. But the info IS out there, and is valuable.

And it's great to have a source like this board where we CAN learn this stuff from those who have the specialized knowledge and experience to teach the rest of us the differences and proper uses of lubes and geases, etc. Thanks to all of you, and please, keep up the great work!

And like religeon it is none of your business, or choice. Damn that must hurt...

[lightload]

I sprayed my neighbor's cat with WD-40 again today and have been doing so for 19 years. He gives me ringworm if I don't because otherwise he jumps in my lap.

[Blackwater]

Did I pee in your Cheerios, Wolf? Surely didn't mean to, but .... oh well.

[44man]

The stuff CAN clean things. Works as a solvent but to pretend it protects after is a fools errand too.
It took a few years for me to learn, I fell into the adds myself.
The press has a red painted base like all Mecs so I wiped with a clean rag first. Rag turned red. Stuff was eating the paint. When chrome plated rusts with a layer of WD-40 on it, maybe you need to get a few more years under your belt.
Maybe it will cure mange on a dog or ruin a cat's life! Reminds me of the time I had a flea infestation in the garage, the floor was moving. I had only insect repellent so I sprayed them. Killed them all so I took the dog out on a table and sprayed her. Fleas were jumping all over the place but I burnt her skin red. Had to bathe her. Yeah, just OFF.
The day I spray my little dog with WD-40 is NEVER!

[Blackwater]

:smile: And I know some who use it on their knees and joints for arthritis! And claim it's the best thing since sliced bread! I guess some folks are TOUGH!?! Some say it's great on fishing lures and baits, too! I've never tried it because I'd be afraid somebody would be watching me!

[David2011]

about -25 C

Too cold for this Southern boy! If for some unforeseen reason I ever hunted at that temperature the gun would be dry other than the locking lugs. Thanks for the info.

David

[Sekatoa]

This thread is ridiculous. I've been trying to stay out of it, but can't hold back anymore. Reminds me of a lock smithing convention I was at once. I drilling jig sales rep was going about his presentation, and mentions using WD-40 or any, common, household lubricant. Some guy interrupts him and says "WD-40's not a lubricant! Says so right on the can". The rep looks at the can in his hand and reads, "lubricates", then says "well it will will work fine for this purpose" or something along those lines and continues.

WD-40 has its uses. Somethings it's good for, such as what it was designed for, as well as others as you find for yourself. If it isn't good in your opinion for what you use for, well, what can I say, don't use it for that. If your buddy is content using for the same thing, good for him. It's relatively cheep, when purchased from warehouse stores, so anything it works well enough for instead of an expensive or more harmful chemical, that's all good.

Someone mentioned using it for their stones. I agree, works good,, or good enough to float away debri, as well as give your some minimal protection until use something more permanent. If you prefer water, well that's a lot cheaper, but you'll still have to put something on your work to displace the water and /or prevent rust. If you want to use a more expensive honing oil, have at it. I got no problem with that either.

Being inexpensive, I use it frequently just a shop "wash" to preliminarily was work or parts off, wash of something sticky, or ink, or whatever. If it doesn't work I'll try something better if I feel the need.

I would agree that although, yes, it CAN lubricate, it isn't a great one, and not a long term one. Saliva can lubricate, but I wouldn't use it in hinges. But both are better than nothing if that's all you have.

When I was younger and worked at Sears, they uses it on the appliances an some large power tool displays to shine them up. One guy was fired for screwing around and spraying it at a co worker. That's a use I wouldn't recommend.

To each their own. No one should lose any sleep over the evil WD-40 does or does not do....well, unless you are paying for a professional clean and lube or something on your car or gun and they use it as the long term lube...but I mean as far as what one does with it oh their own stuff.

[DougGuy]

It cleans and quiets scratchy guitar and amp knobs! Not too bad a guitar cleaner either!

The other thing it does REALLY WELL is smooth up cuts made in the lathe or milling machine.

[Blackwater]

Doug, that's what a friend of mine uses it for, or at least one of its uses. I've used it on amps, too, and for that, it worked good, but usually also used some type of loose grease, too. Grease, though, attracts dust badly, so .... I began leaving that off, too. A buddy uses it on the finish and fingerboards of his rather spendy guitars, and swears by it. Says it also tends to make his strings last longer, too. I just can't bring myself to use it on mine, though, and much prefer waxes (usually JPW).

It's far from useless, of course, but as I've learned more about lubes, oils and greases, I've tended toward better stuff for whatever application I need lubes for.

What kind'a music ya' playin'? I'm a blues, southern rock and R&B fan myself, along with bluegrass and some gospel. Love the electrics but have Dad's old '32 Gretch archtop with oversized body. That one's got a real story behind it.

[montana_charlie]

WD-40 is a solvent

It also penetrates your skin and gets in your blood stream instantly.

It is a great degreaser.

Those characteristics could lead a person to get the idea that WD-40 is DMSO, with additives.

[BrentD]

A person could get the idea that WD-40 is DMSO, with additives.

If those claims were all true. But they aren't. There is a pile of HS on this thread.

[Sekatoa]

Here's a good alternate use:
http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Wd-40-Diversion-Container/dp/B00WRWQ4QS/ref=lp_2445482011_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452264999&sr=1-12

[BrentD]

FWIW, I just bought a can of WD-40 Specialist and used it on the press that I'm using to reform 1250 .45-70s into .40-65s. I have to say, it works just fabulously.

[MSD MIke]

Never really used it on firearms but it works great for cleaning motorcycle chains. When I lived on the coast we would hose down metal parts on tackle that had been exposed to saltwater. It has its uses.


Mike

[44man]

I was involved in fixing TV and radios for years and had to clean pots all the time. Same with radio control airplanes. I had a special grease made just for the lube of pots. I would take them apart, clean and lube instead or replacing them. NEVER WD-40 inside one.
The best pot wipers were carbon and I replaced the brass ones with carbon. No lube needed. Lube of the proper kind did no harm though. Once done, never a scratch again.
To have WD-40 gum up the carbon film the wiper ran on was not in the cards. Most pots can not be lubed from the outside anyway. You need to remove them and bend the tabs and take them apart.
Funny to compare WD-40 to DMSO that I have and use. Not much of anything will penetrate skin like DMSO and I laugh at all those pain relieving products that says DEEP PENETRATION, get off my back. TV ads are crazy. Same as all the junk that smooths wrinkles. Water is better. Water might go deeper but DMSO is the only thing that reaches bone.
You don't taste fish oil on your hand or diesel fuel or motor oil or grease. I would be awful slippery inside from being a mechanic!
All my guns were paid for by fixing TV and radio years ago, I was good and also cheap but made a ton of money. I charged $20 for parts and labor to fix a lightning strike while the TV guy charged $79. Every TV that left my garage looked better then when new. Pride in work, like my gun smith work. I would come home from work at United Airlines to find 15 TV's in my garage, some from half the state of Ohio away.
Tell me to use WD-40 on a fine guitar!
I won't stop you that love it, the way it is but it is like making pure lead shoot 2500 fps from a rifle.
I do have some around but it is only used here and there like a coolant or flush when cutting. Then parts are washed after.

[Elkins45]

I think the popularity of WD-40 basically comes from the efforts of the Madison Ave. advertisers and most folks' lack of real interest in knowing anything beyond the very minimum necessary for "right now." Add in the Wal Mart/Burger King "have it your way" mentality of wanting things to be cheap AND universally applicable, and presto! You have a decent product that has become the icon that WD-40 has become. The old jokes about rednecks using duct tape to stop things from moving that want to move, and WD-40 to make things move that don't want to, kind'a reflects this mentality that pervades our culture today.


Only you could turn this into a discussion of moral decay :)


:smile: And I know some who use it on their knees and joints for arthritis! And claim it's the best thing since sliced bread! I guess some folks are TOUGH!?! Some say it's great on fishing lures and baits, too! I've never tried it because I'd be afraid somebody would be watching me!

One of my uncles swears by it as an arthritis palliative. He's a mechanic and says that's the only thing it's good for.


It cleans and quiets scratchy guitar and amp knobs! Not too bad a guitar cleaner either!

The other thing it does REALLY WELL is smooth up cuts made in the lathe or milling machine.


Good to know the thing about lathe cuts. Back when I was learning to play guitar in the 70's I couldn't afford new strings as often as I would have liked. The local guitar shop was actually a side business of one of the mechanics in the Chevy dealer and he sold little beige cans of an aerosol spray that was supposed to make your strings last longer. I can't recall the name but it might have been called String Saver or something like that. I bought some and it really worked, and IIRC it smelled a lot like if WD-40 and TCE had a love child. I don't know if it still exists---it probably causes cancer in California.

My dad had a High Standard Citation 22 target pistol he kept under his bed. Ever so often he would give it a good hosing down with WD-40. After he died I retrieved it and brought it home with me. Even though I doubt he ever fired it 100 times it has a brown patina like it had been carried in the war. I will pass on WD-40 as anything other than what it explicitly is supposed to do: displace water.

[BrentD]

I will pass on WD-40 as anything other than what it explicitly is supposed to do: displace water.

you must not have read the test article that actually evaluated water displacement.

[Mal Paso]

WD-40 was designed To Sell. It does that too well. :wink:

Time will tell if it's as long lasting as Threadkiller.

[RugerFanOH]

I found this through Google:

http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp