Priming sanity check

[michael.birdsley]

Just got done priming 50 9mm brass with my Lee ergo prime and cci small pistol primers. Brass is a mixed bag mostly federal though. This is my first time priming and I don't really have anybody to ask but, these look like they are supposed to right? I think they look right but, just making sure http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/18/ea93e6ade4cc9cc82de51a620f94406b.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/18/cb973f60160f8ee1b80251d793a0fdca.jpg Thanks

[montanamike]

As long as they are flush or deeper in the case they are fine. If you stand the brass on a flat surface and it rocks back and fourth the primer needs to be seated deeper.

[Yodogsandman]

I try for .003" to .005" below flush using a ram prime unit. Set it to the correct depth and they all come out within .001".

[charlie3tuna]

I just run my finger across the primer, to 'see' if it is below flush with the case. Never any problems. Always goes bang....charlie

[MBTcustom]

Those look great. Good job!
Once you've done it a few go-zillion times, you won't sweat it unless you're building match rifle ammo. For pistols, I would never clean the primer pockets, and I'd just keep shooting till they split. I was interested in the gun, and casting/reloading was just a way to get to the range and keep shooting, so I invested as little time in my loads as possible (of course, I was a teenager too, so go figure). Today I am much much more careful and the reloading is as much a part of the sport as the shooting is. I take care and I seat each primer by hand with a Lee hand priming tool. I expect my primer pockets to be clean and clear, and the primer always sits below flush.

Now, the reason I just gave you a boring history of my personal methods, is that in all my 20 years of reloading, I have had exactly two primers that failed to pop, and I am absolutely sure those were no fault of my own. I've stuffed a primer in brass any way you can think of, and never had an issue.

Don't sweat it. Use the correct primer for the job, and let the rough edge drag.

[Blackwater]

You've received good comments and advice above. All I can add is that when priming, be VERY sure your hands are clean and do NOT have any sizing lube, or other oils on them. This can possibly kill the priming mix in a primer and cause a misfire or hangfire. Reloading is pretty easy IF you follow the directions in every reloading manual out there. Read the front of them at least 5 times, thoroughly, until you know the proceedures, and more importantly, WHY you do things the way you do them. Understanding the whys really helps keep you out of any potential trouble areas. There's an awful lot of good info, advice and insight in the front of those manuals, but many never even read them. Even now, after 50+ years of reloading, I read sections in the front of the manuals. They're as good now as ever, and it never hurts to be reminded of some of the "little things" that can improve our reliability and accuracy and consistency. Never will.

[bedbugbilly]

I prime all of my brass with a Lee ergo hand primer. After you've done a few, you'll develop a "feel" for the seating anti will become second nature. Already good advice given that I can't add to. Your cases look good!

All I use for 9mm is "range brass" with a wide variety of head stamps. I try to buy it a cheaply as I can as I always end up loosing some and that way, it doesn't hurt so much! LOL

As you will find out, the primes seem to seat easier in some than in others (head stamps). I bought a case of 5K 9mm casings and in checking the primer pocket prior to putting in the hand primer, I found some that showed what I would call "excess pressure" signs - by that I mean that the head stamp on the casing was flattened out to where it was hard to read. At the price I paid for them, I just cull them out I have also run into some where it looks like the primer pocket was not perfect . . . i.e. it's almost like there is a step down around the circumference of the pocket and on these, the primer seems to get hung up and won't seat well . . . and this was not limited to just one head stamp and it wasn't military brass. I cull those out as well. I mention what I've run in to just so you know that it's important to inspect the casing overtime you load it for either a split mouth or a possible obstruction in the priming hole or an issue with the priming pocket. Just some of the things that should be done regardless of what caliber you are loading.

Looks like you are well on your way! Enjoy and have fun!

[runfiverun]

I feel the primer going in the case and hit the bottom of the pocket.
the primer being seated fully is more important than depth or evenness or anything else.
I actually seat the primer then turn the case 1/4 turn and touch it again.
I don't try to crush it in there just firm even pressure.

[michael.birdsley]

Thank you guys I feel better about them. I have the Lee, hornaday, and Lyman books. I have read them many times over in the last year I'm just making sure what is in the books is translating into practice. I do really appreciate the comments thank you

[michael.birdsley]

I have about 200 prepped un primed brass left. If i primed the rest could I store them in a zip lock baggy? Or just prime as I need them?

[Victor N TN]

Thank you guys I feel better about them. I have the Lee, hornaday, and Lyman books. I have read them many times over in the last year I'm just making sure what is in the books is translating into practice. I do really appreciate the comments thank you

Go back and read ALL the chapters about safety and set up again. If everyone would read the safety practices once a year, there wouldn't be as many accidents.

Your primed cases look fine.

[fivefang]

hand priming is a great way to cull lose primer pockets, I like reasonably hot 9mm loads, & do not like finding un primed brass after firing

[michael.birdsley]

hand priming is a great way to cull lose primer pockets, I like reasonably hot 9mm loads, & do not like finding un primed brass after firing

Does that happen when you prime them on a press? I'm just using a Lee single stage c press I ordered through the local gun shop for 30 bucks.

[Gtek]

It is good that you ask, many of us were blessed with mentors that taught and shown us the things we needed through their experiences. There is a wonderful group here to help you down the road, there is ALWAYS the possibility for firearm, personal or bystander damage with mistakes made. I am a fan of the RCBS hand primer that I have had so long I cannot remember how long. At your consumption level slow and steady will be your friend and whatever you are using with enough use will unknowingly create a feel and a bad "feel" will automatically make brain go stop, look. Confidence and experience has not been listed in the catalog yet, it arrives free after you buy all the other stuff!

[bedbugbilly]

michael - I think what fivefang is saying is that he likes to load his 9mm cartridges "hot" . . . i.e. near or at the maximum charge shown in the loading data he is using. As you prime your 9mm brass . . . especially if it is range brass/mixed head stamps . . . some of it may have been loaded multiple times and / or, just because of the batch of brass, you might have "loose" primer pockets. These would be at the larger end of the specs. for a small pistol primer - you'll know it as when you hand prime, you'll feel how easy it slides in. Just remember that pockets can vary and on some, the primers will go i easier than on others.

If the cartridge is on the "hot" side, the pressure will be greater and as a result, if a primer pocket is really loose or sloppy for the primer, the process of firing, backward pressure of ejection, etc. could cause the spent primer to fall out - thus you might find a spent casing without the primer.

Every pistol is different . . even it was the same make/model laid side by side. Things such as different strengths of recoil springs, slide travel of the pistol, etc. all contribute to just what load will work best in your pistol.

As an example . . . I have a Ruger SR9 and a S & W 9mm Shield. These are my only semi-autos as I am more of a "revolver guy". If I use, for example, a CCI small pistol primer, a 9mm casing and a 120 ish grain round nose lead boolit . . my SR9 will cycle easily with all of those components using 3.5 grains of Bulls Eye . . and that is/was my normal practice load for my SR9. Then I got my 9mm Shield. The recoil spring is quite stiff and racing the slide does take some effort - a little bit more than my SR9. When I started to break the Shield in, my normal load of 3.5 gr. of Bulls Eye with the 120 ish grain boolit would work but I did experience some failure to eject as well as failure to feed. I upped the powder load to 3.7 grains of Bulls Eye and the Shield runs without a flaw and cycles and shoots great. Both of those charges, the 3.5 and 3.7 grains of Bulls Eye are well within the minimum and maximum charge weights according to my manual.

To experiment and play a little, I upped the powder grain weight up to 4.0 grains of Bulls Eye. They fired great in my SR9 but my Shield didn't like it at all. I had some failure to feed and eject rounds . . . I immediately switched back to a magazine full of my usual 3.7 grain loads and it ran perfect. The next guy's Shield or SR9 might not like what mine do. In my SR9, I have shot commercially loaded with J words and it worked fine. My Shield has not seen a store bought round as all I'm feeding it is my cast loads. So now, at this time anyway, I'm loading with 3.7 grains as it will work in both pistols. I only have about 400 - 500 round though my Shield and as more go through it and it loosens up more . . . I may have to adapt my load to that.

That is just what my own experiences have been and for others, it may be different. As you loading manauls state and preach . . on your powder loads . . . start at the low end of the data and work up until you find the "sweet spot" your particular pistol likes. You'll get it figured out and have a lot of fun in the process!

[williamwaco]

As long as they are flush or deeper in the case they are fine. If you stand the brass on a flat surface and it rocks back and fourth the primer needs to be seated deeper.


This is the ultimate test.

Deliberately seat a primer not quite flush and set it down on a hard flat surface and watch it wobble.
You will see what mike is talking about.

[michael.birdsley]

michael - I think what fivefang is saying is that he likes to load his 9mm cartridges "hot" . . . i.e. near or at the maximum charge shown in the loading data he is using. As you prime your 9mm brass . . . especially if it is range brass/mixed head stamps . . . some of it may have been loaded multiple times and / or, just because of the batch of brass, you might have "loose" primer pockets. These would be at the larger end of the specs. for a small pistol primer - you'll know it as when you hand prime, you'll feel how easy it slides in. Just remember that pockets can vary and on some, the primers will go i easier than on others.

If the cartridge is on the "hot" side, the pressure will be greater and as a result, if a primer pocket is really loose or sloppy for the primer, the process of firing, backward pressure of ejection, etc. could cause the spent primer to fall out - thus you might find a spent casing without the primer.

Every pistol is different . . even it was the same make/model laid side by side. Things such as different strengths of recoil springs, slide travel of the pistol, etc. all contribute to just what load will work best in your pistol.

As an example . . . I have a Ruger SR9 and a S & W 9mm Shield. These are my only semi-autos as I am more of a "revolver guy". If I use, for example, a CCI small pistol primer, a 9mm casing and a 120 ish grain round nose lead boolit . . my SR9 will cycle easily with all of those components using 3.5 grains of Bulls Eye . . and that is/was my normal practice load for my SR9. Then I got my 9mm Shield. The recoil spring is quite stiff and racing the slide does take some effort - a little bit more than my SR9. When I started to break the Shield in, my normal load of 3.5 gr. of Bulls Eye with the 120 ish grain boolit would work but I did experience some failure to eject as well as failure to feed. I upped the powder load to 3.7 grains of Bulls Eye and the Shield runs without a flaw and cycles and shoots great. Both of those charges, the 3.5 and 3.7 grains of Bulls Eye are well within the minimum and maximum charge weights according to my manual.

To experiment and play a little, I upped the powder grain weight up to 4.0 grains of Bulls Eye. They fired great in my SR9 but my Shield didn't like it at all. I had some failure to feed and eject rounds . . . I immediately switched back to a magazine full of my usual 3.7 grain loads and it ran perfect. The next guy's Shield or SR9 might not like what mine do. In my SR9, I have shot commercially loaded with J words and it worked fine. My Shield has not seen a store bought round as all I'm feeding it is my cast loads. So now, at this time anyway, I'm loading with 3.7 grains as it will work in both pistols. I only have about 400 - 500 round though my Shield and as more go through it and it loosens up more . . . I may have to adapt my load to that.

That is just what my own experiences have been and for others, it may be different. As you loading manauls state and preach . . on your powder loads . . . start at the low end of the data and work up until you find the "sweet spot" your particular pistol likes. You'll get it figured out and have a lot of fun in the process!

Ok that is good to know about what would cause a primer to push out. I did notice that the federals primed with less force than than Winchester stamped brass. I am loading for a sr9c and just bought some bullseye powder to day. Only reason I picked that one was because the place had it and it was the first powder listed for the hornaday 115 grn fmj's load. I'm just at the moment trying to develop a plinking load that maybe gets better groups than factory ammo.

[Abenaki]

I have about 200 prepped un primed brass left. If i primed the rest could I store them in a zip lock baggy? Or just prime as I need them?

Yes, you can store primed brass in zip lock bag. You will find that most guys store brass in several stages. Fired, cleaned and sized, primed, and then loaded.

Take care
Abenaki

[Pumpkinheaver]

I just run my finger across the primer, to 'see' if it is below flush with the case. Never any problems. Always goes bang....charlie

I do the same after priming my brass.

[michael.birdsley]

Yes, you can store primed brass in zip lock bag. You will find that most guys store brass in several stages. Fired, cleaned and sized, primed, and then loaded.

Take care
Abenaki

Ziplock baggys is how I store my brass that's been through the different operations. I just didn't know if there was a safety reason why I couldn't prime them all for down the road. Thanks.

[Mk42gunner]

One extra step is to include a note of what type primer you used in the baggie. The sleeve that came with the primers is one good way to do this.

This really helps when you find a baggie or ammo can full of primed brass ten years down the road and can't remember what brand of primer you were using then.

Robert

[John Boy]

I don't really have anybody to ask but, these look like they are supposed to right?Michael, Lee Precision designed the hand primer in such a manner that if you cannot remove the primed case so it slides across the shell holder, the primer is not seated deep enough. If the primed case slides easily across the shell holder it is seated properly and at the depth that it should be. I've been using the Lee Auto Hand Primer for years. It is an excellent tool for hand loading when not using a progressive press to do your reloading
Ya Did Good - Load em up and Enjoy your reloads !
PS: You'll know when there is a high primer because it is a SOB removing the case from the shell holder with the case stuck in it ... voice of experience talking :groner:

[michael.birdsley]

One extra step is to include a note of what type primer you used in the baggie. The sleeve that came with the primers is one good way to do this.

This really helps when you find a baggie or ammo can full of primed brass ten years down the road and can't remember what brand of primer you were using then.

Robert

That's s good idea