Just got my stuff

[gl1800]

My new Lee Pro 20 pot just showed up along with a new lee 6 cavity mould. Can't wait to get started casting. The mould directions state to use "Alox Beeswax Mix Bullet Lube" on the pins. I haven't had a chance to order the BullPlate yet and was wondering if there is something else I could use until the BullPlate arrives? If not, I'll just wait so I don't screw up the mould.

Many thanks..

Richard

[bigborefan]

Candle wax will work, but the trick is to barely touch the pins and sprue plate screw. Excessive wax can go into the mould cavity and raise hell trying to get good bullets until it burns off.

[Sprue]

+ 1 what Bigborefan said...

I can't remember the last time I lubed the pins or any part for that matter. If the mold feels like its getting stiff, barely give it a touch of wax or make adjustments. As for fluxing, I only do that when melting down WW's, I dont see the need during casting. And btw, when I use the Lee molds, they seem to run best for me when they get to the frosting temps. Other things you may consider, you might want to keep a phillips screw driver or the appropriate wrench close by while casting. This is what works for me. Your mileage may vary.

Have fun

[mechdriver]

Glad to hear that Lee has some product shipping again. I've had 5 6 cavity and 1 2 cavity mold on order since the middle of February.
I have used never-seize on the sprue plate screw on my 2 cavity molds. Took the screw out when I first got it and put a little in the hole and haven't had a problem since. YMMV

[randyrat]

Permatex Anti seize on the pins and alignment groves and a #2 pencil on the face of the mold works untill your Bull plate lube shows up. Unscrew your sprue plate screw and put a little on it and the washers also.

[kooz]

gl1800
I am also new to casting and would offer this advice, get yourself a good thermometer and save yourself a LOT of agrivation. I took this advice from the folks here and was making great bullets right from the get-go. Without the thermometer I would have been running blind, I don't know how anyone does it without one. I use it for smelting WW's and casting. My Lee molds seem to work very good @ 830 degrees, just enough for a light frost on the entire surface of the bullet, I also keep a wet washcloth nearby to set the mold on to regulate the temperature when it gets to hot. . Good luck with your new equipment.

[JIMinPHX]

High temp grease from the auto parts store will get you by for a little while. You do need to clean off the residue once in a while though.

[flinchnjerk]

I was never able to get any sort of control of the amount of lube applied by touching the lube points with a candle, bit of bullet lube, whatever.... wrinkled bullets for the next dozen or so throws after lubing. What works for me - get a metal jar lid, metal cap from a spray can, etc.. Place some wax, paraffin...whatever your chosen lube is (Mr. Cheap Pri....uh, Mr. Frugal here uses used birthday candles) in the lid and set it on your pot rim as your alloy's melting. When the wax is molten, dip Q-tips into the wax until the "cotton" won't take any more, then set the Q-tips aside and let the wax solidify. When the mold needs lubing (or you think that it's about time to lube it - the only time that I've ever had alignment pins "pull" was due to lack of lube) touch the Q-tip to the alignment pins, the top of the sprue plate at the outside edge of the pivot bolt, the top of the block between the corner of the block and the sprue plate, and wipe the sprue plate cutout for the hold down bolt. Just touch these points until you see the wax start to melt out of the Q-tip. A helpful hint - don't try to get your money's worth from your free wax by pushing the Q-tip to the lube points hard enough to squeeze the last bit of wax out. Melted Q-tip does not make a good mold lube.

[gl1800]

Thanks everyone for all the great advice. I've already rendered the WW's using information from the kind folks on this site. Following the directions, all went smooth as silk. When I ordered the pot and mould I also ordered the lyman thermometer. I like keeping it simple and I've never been good at guestimating. I appreciate everyone being patient as I learn this new hobby.

Kindest Regards,
Richard

[Newtire]

Don't give up on that bottom dripping pot either. Mine dripped a good bit from the start but after adjusting the needle screw and turning it around and pushing as I turn with a screwdriver, it began to slow down until now, it doesn't leak anymore unless an actual chunk gets stuck in there.

Check out the Leementing advice on this board and get a setscrew put in there to lock the sprue pivot screw in place. Make sure to lightly stake the handle-to-mould block pins in so they don't fall out.

Have fun most of all.

[dakotashooter2]

As for fluxing, I only do that when melting down WW's, I dont see the need during casting.

I have begun to "stir" my casting pot every few minutes with a wood dowel and find that I am getting better results than dropping in some type of flux.


:castmine:

[mtgrs737]

+1 on the bullplate mould lube, I won't cast without it. Wooden dowel is a good method also. Good luck and have fun at this addicting hobby! :drinks:

[Frank V]

BigBoreFan is correct. I've been using parifin on Lee Moulds for years, it works well & as said before don't let it creep into the mould cavity or you will have to cast about 15 boolits to get it burned out. Frank