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View Full Version : Ol' bangerjim was right!



Mike W1
09-17-2015, 05:12 PM
Been fooling around with PID's, TC's, and closures to limit heat loss for last couple of weeks and have concluded just like he said it ain't all necessary. All you need is the hot plate! But keep in mind I was having fun and these weren't scientifically precise tests. At best gonna be approximations. Now what I learned.

l. Stem dial thermometers react slowly immersed in lead. They're even slower just exposed to air.
2. Even 1/8" TC probes react pretty slowly in air.
3. Realistically with a PID controlling either the contact screw-in TC and the 1/8" probe in the air could control the hot plate temperature within ± 2-3° F.
4. With the air sensor you had a constant off/on surges of power to the hot plate.
5. The mounted TC didn't ever do that for me.
6. Using the mounted TC and the Mypin just as a thermometer, and the thermostat in the hot plate.
a. With a heat enclosure plate temperature was about ± 10° F at the setting on hot plate.
b. Without the heat enclosure plate temperature was about ± 8° F at same setting on hot plate.
7. We're heating the mould with the plate temperature, NOT the air temperature, and the little difference in swing temperatures just isn't worth the bother of enclosures or PID control.

I learned a bit, had fun doing it, and again proved someone else knew a lot more than I did. I'll just write down some reference points and keep an eye on if things are in the ballpark with a hot plate and a flat aluminum cover on it.

Yodogsandman
09-17-2015, 06:48 PM
Thanks for taking the time to check on all that!

Cooler weather's creeping up fast though, I'm gonna keep my tin can oven to cover my mold. The oven has the bi-metal stem thermometer, just for reference.

bangerjim
09-17-2015, 07:03 PM
As long as you have a GOOD intimate contact with your hotplate, your mold will heat evenly and rapidly without any surround. Really cold ambients this winter like back east and up north may benefit from the shielding. I normally put a 1# alloy ingot on top of the mold(s) to insure good contact. As a benefit the ingots heat also!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the kiddos Mike! I just pass along info I have learned over the decades to help others.

mozeppa
09-17-2015, 07:35 PM
yup!

if i gets frosty boolits = hot plate too hot
wrinkly= too cold

hit the sweet spot around 375 to 400 = sweet shiney boolits!

Mike W1
09-17-2015, 08:48 PM
Well it was an entertaining venture. Getting on towards doing some casting and now have another toy. Little shop is wood heated so it's never a cold job and in fact on occasion I've opened the door and kicked the big exhaust fan on. Project tomorrow is build a little removeable shelf for the hot plate and add an electric outlet for convenient hookup. Might even have to post one of my little pictures when it's done. Not pretty but it's all right there handy.

Mike W1
09-19-2015, 01:02 PM
Built the removable shelf for the hot plate and it'll be in easy reach right next to the cooling fan cabinet. Both lead pots and the hot plate now have their own electrical circuits. 2 of the PID's will stay with the pots now and the 3rd will shuffle from reading the hot plate temp and doing duty on the lube heater. The little rig obstructing view of the hot plate is adjustable for keeping the mould flat on the plate. Think I'm done building toys for awhile! Time to go out back and "make some holes in the air". Casting can wait till it gets a bit colder and I don't want to be outside.

149300

bangerjim
09-19-2015, 03:33 PM
Looks more like my electronics testing bench!

HA......ha!

good stuff

banger

jsizemore
09-20-2015, 09:07 AM
Where's the speakers?

3jimbo3
09-27-2015, 11:05 PM
yup!

if i gets frosty boolits = hot plate too hot
wrinkly= too cold

hit the sweet spot around 375 to 400 = sweet shiney boolits!


That's the best summary I have found yet. This is what I've been looking for....thank you.