Subcompact tarctor

[Ickisrulz]

I am thinking about a subcompact tractor. I would like to be able to grade driveways, move gravel/crushed rocks, pull a box blade and mow the lawn. I would only be using it around my property for personal needs. Are these class of machines worth buying for what I need?

I have a John Deere and Kubota dealerships withing 10 miles of me. A Mahinda is about 45 minutes away.

What are you recommendations for a machine? How do I go about getting the best deal? I know how to buy a car, but is there much wiggle room when buying a new tractor?

Thanks.

[farmerjim]

How big is your place? How big (horsepower) of a tractor are you considering.
Don't pass over older (1985 and older) used tractors.

[Artful]

When I was part of garden at the community college they bought a Kubota diesel and were real happy with it but I wouldn't have called it subcompact.

[Vann]

With out knowing how big your place is and how much you expect from the tractor, that's hard to answer. Tractor weight has more to do with tractor ability than hp. My smallest tractor is a Yanmar 1500, it weighs in at around 1500 pound. I'm not sure of the exact hp rating, it's some where between 15 and 18 hp.

This is an awesome small garden tractor it will pull a small 4 blade disc well and I run a 5 foot finishing mower, and a 4 foot rough cut mower with. The downside is its weight. It doesn't have enough weight in the the rear or the front to be very effective at pulling a box blade or any thing even remotely heavy.

I have a 32 hp two wheel drive tractor that I've owned since 1986. It seems to have a good weight/power ratio and would do well for a small area of 5 or 10 acres. I run a 5 foot rough cut mower, 5 foot box blade, and a grater blade. This tractor also does very good for its size.

My 50hp tractor is my favorite. It's an older International 484, since buying this tractor I barely use the 32 hp tractor any more. If I had to start over and could only buy one tractor, for the work I do it would be a 50 hp, 4 wheel drive with a front end loader.

Just remember if you want a frontend loader 4 wheel drive tractors do much better than a 2 wheel drive tractor. Also 4 wheel drive on a tractor effectively gives about a 50% hp increase due to better traction.

[osteodoc08]

I'll second the 4wd. A friend of mines grandparents have a 1300 acre hobby farm and we used their big Case tractor for everything. It needed the 4WD at times and without it, would have been stuck or unable to get the work done.

You could do a lot worse then a JD or Kubota tractor.

[jcren]

We have a 65hp Kubota but I had the operunity to use a 18hp 4wd Kubota for heavy yard clean-up. This thing with a loader and boxblade and hydrostatic drive amazed the heck out of me. I am currently watching for a good used one myself.

[Vann]

Yes, 4 wheel drive makes a huge difference, a tractor with a 1000 hp isn't worth anything if it can't get the power to the ground. Not only is the 4 wheel drive better at pulling, it also adds weight to the front of the tractor where it's needed to hold the front end down. Climbing a steep slope with the front tires barely touching isn't fun. My biggest tractor is a JD 3155, with the front loader on it it weighs in at about 16,000 lbs. I don't farm anymore so I mainly use it for clearing ground, skidding trees, and moving dirt. If it wasn't 4 wheel drive I'd be just as well off using a 60 hp tractor with 4 wheel drive.

On a side note look close a Yanmar tractors. Yanmar makes tractors for JD and a few others. Plus they make a real good diesel engine. A friend bought a 32 hp Cub Cadet a few years back that was made by Yanmar and it looked like a good tractor.

[Ickisrulz]

How big is your place? How big (horsepower) of a tractor are you considering.
Don't pass over older (1985 and older) used tractors.

I am thinking 19-26 HP. We have 2.5 acres. We may get additional land adjacent to us at some time. Never more than 5 acres though.

[Vann]

IMHO, I believe that you are on the right track. You can do just as much work with a 20 hp tractor as a you can with with something much bigger, it may just take a little longer. If you have to you can always borrow or rent something bigger if needed. Also small tractors have good resale value.

Just make sure whatever pto implements you get are not rated to high for the tractors pto. Nothing is worse than cutting 5 acres in first gear because you bought a 8 foot cutter and put it behind a 40 horse tractor.

[Tenbender]

Let your pocketbook be your guide. None of them are US .

[TJF1]

I have a 40 hp Kubota 4 wheel drive you can`t do better.
this my 3 third Kubota in 40 years.

[Fishman]

I have a kubota 2910 and have had it for almost 15 years. Expensive but wow can you do some stuff with it. You should go visit tractorbynet.com and do some research. The BX series is in the size range you want. 4wd and a front end loader are mandatory.

[rockrat]

I have a JD 950, probably about 23 hp and have 5 acres. I also have a MF135 with the same hp, but two wheel drive I inherited. I like the live pto on the MF and leave the backhoe attachment on the JD. My sister has a JD750, probably about 18hp and I have run a 5' bush hog with it, but don't care for the pto setup as it won't start till the tractor is moving. Both the JD's are 4wd and believe me, has it come in handy here in Colorado. Both have buckets on the front. They have Yanmar diesels. The MF a perkins.

The small Kubota tractors, I hear, are good. I would look at the small MF or the Kubotas, with the kubota first. Might be able to get a belly mower for it , instead of a bush hog.

[Duckiller]

You can't buy a small American made tractor new any more. All small tractors are made in Europe or Asia.

[kenyerian]

I have a BX2670 4 wheel drive Kubota with front end loader , a 60 inch belly mower, a 60" blade and a 60 " bush Hog. I have 90 acres to work on and it is a work horse. Wouldn't want to be without one. A friend just purchased a Mahindra and is very happy with his also.

[Nicholas]

Hydrostatic drive is easier to work with than geared drives, but you give up some horsepower. Buy a tractor for the biggest jobs you expect to do and have a good weather tight place to store it. The tool I use the most is my tiller. Got mine at Tractor Supply. Almost never take it off and use it as a counter balance to the front loader. I have a 40 horse hydrostatic drive New Holland Boomer. You might want to check out there smaller tractors while doing your research.

[jonp]

With a set of chains you may never need 4wd but the one time you do you will be glad you paid extra for it. I was looking into a small 4wd one time for some clearing work. Pull small trees out, grade a road, blow some snow etc.. I settled on 25hp as what would get the job done and after borrowing a Ford tractor from a friend it was the right size for a few acres.

Don't forget to look for a good used one. Craigslist has a ton of them and you should be able to save some money on one. Unless the original owner was a real idiot it is kinda hard to hurt one. Just check it out thoroughly first before buying.

[garym1a2]

I have a Kubota B2400HD tractor with a loader. I think this tractor is too small to do much grading. In the thick Florida Bahia grass its under powered for mowing with a 4 foot Bush-hog deck if the grass is tall. The HST tranny is nice, when mowing I take off the loader as its quick change and makes a rough ride.
If I had to get another it would be bigger,

[bdicki]

I have a Kubota L3400 with a loader and a backhoe. I use a York rake to repair the dirt road in the spring. It's been problem free and I would buy it again.

[Plate plinker]

Kubota no nothing of mahindra . Neighbor bought a john Deere compact? I guess you might call it subcompact and it sounds like it is going to throw a rod I'll just say unimpressed.

[MUSTANG]

Given the size of your property, I would recommend something like my John Deere 3005. I find it to be a good mix between smaller size, 4 wheel drive, and has sufficient power and full range of 3 point/PTO attachment options (i.e. front loader, back hoe, 5 ft mower, chipper/shredder, cement mixer, etc....)


If cost is an issue, You could also look for an older tractor such as a Ford 2N, 8N, or 9N. These are getting hard to locate since many were bought up and taken to Mexico over the last 35 years. They often go for $2K to $3.5K. Plenty rugged, and 3 point hitch items fit. You might have to search for a front end loader to fit them. Also, make sure the one you buy has a PTO; quite a few did not have PTO.

[dragonrider]

I have had Yanmar, John Deere and now have a Kubota BX-25, Kubota is by far the better machine. All have fel, bh, and the Kubota also has a 3 pth snow blower, there is no better way to move snow. However it is not what I would call an inexpensive machine but after owning the previous two machines I believe it is worth it.

[Frank46]

I had (past tense) a John Deere 2305 with the belly mower. In 4 years went through 3 batteries and when I sold it the solenoid for the belly mower crapped out. That tractor was a green lump that you threw money at. So having said that went and got a Kubota L3800 with front end loader and bushog and never looked back. Think it's about 37 horse power with 4 wheel drive when you need it. I've moved dirt, tree limbs, graded part of the front lawn and the list goes on. Had it two years and still on the first battery, plus the dealer has helped me out when I had a couple problems. The JD dealer was all about bring it in and throw money at it. Go for a kubota with a finish cut rear mower and front end loader. You won't be sorry. Best thing about it is that with the front end loader you don't really stop picking up tree limbs ( I have a lot of trees)just push them out of the way and pick them up when you want. With the JD I didn't have that option. Check out orangetractor.com for the kubota tractors. Frank

[Mytmousemalibu]

We have a John Deere 770, 4x4 w/ model 70 bucket that we bought new in the mid 90's. Little Yanmar 3cyl diesel, the thing runs and works like a champ! It has been mowing a 4 acre lot since new along with bucket work and plowing, etc. It has pulled a 6ft brush hog since new too, which is a little big for it but it works. Its been a great machine, not one problem in all these years!

I'm partial to Green, my grandfather co-owned a JD dealership when I was a tyke. Still an International fan too!

[jonp]

146327

Go Big Or Go Home

[Cmm_3940]

Kubota 18 hp Diesel BX series. This thing is a real workhorse, doesn't cost much more than a comparable size 'lawn tractor', and has ten times the build quality.

[Screwbolts]

I have a JD 950, probably about 23 hp and have 5 acres. I also have a MF135 with the same hp, but two wheel drive I inherited. I like the live pto on the MF and leave the backhoe attachment on the JD. My sister has a JD750, probably about 18hp and I have run a 5' bush hog with it, but don't care for the pto setup as it won't start till the tractor is moving. Both the JD's are 4wd and believe me, has it come in handy here in Colorado. Both have buckets on the front. They have Yanmar diesels. The MF a perkins.



Both of the listed above John Deere tractors are of the 80s no later that early 90s vintage, yes they have Yanmar engines and it would have seemed odd for them to have anything else, being they were built by Yanmar for John Deere. All of the model 650 threw 1650 and tractors of that vintage are Yanmar built. I sold many of them.

Most of the compact tractors with manual transmissions of that vintage under 35 HP, will not have "Live" PTO. Small utility tractors of that vintage will have Live PTO.

[Houndog]

I have a 25 acre mini farm and own a New Holland TC30 tractor as well as a larger Massey Ferguson. That little New Holland does everything you listed as wanting to do and more! It's a 4 wheel drive with a manual transmission. I use a 6 foot finish mower, a 5 foot bushog.a 5 foot rotary tiller, 12 inch double plows, 10 foot boom sprayer, front end loader, and a 5 foot box blade with it and it does well with all of them. If I had to choose keeping just one of my tractors, it would be the New Holland!

[Lloyd Smale]

my neighbor was looking for a 4x4 mid sized tractor about 10 years ago to put a back hoe on in the summer and a blower on in the winter. I told him to take a ride with me and talk to the owner of the big farm I do crop damage shooting at and see what he recommended. He told my neighbor to but about anything but a John Deer. He said they were overpriced and what you bought was a name and with the troubles he had with them in the past he wouldn't have one in his driveway. He recommended a new Holland. Neighbor bought one couldn't be happier. Only problems hes ever had were a couple blown hoses and he uses the thing about daily.

[Rick Hodges]

My brother uses a John Deere 4 wd small yanmar diesel tractor for all that and more...brush hogging, mowing, grading, log splitting, and repairing a 1/4 mile long driveway and many other chores. His is an old 750 (?) series and it is more than capable.

[Ickisrulz]

I appreciate the input. I am going to check out the couple local places today and see what they can do.

[doc1876]

I worked for the USF&W, and all they had were expensive JD. I have useMasseys, and really enjoyed them, but the first time I ran a Kubota, I was blown away by how well it works.

[Bo1]

I just purchased a Kubota Grand L4060 this spring. This is a 42HP 4x4 tractor with a front end loader with shuttle shift. It is a workhorse. I have a 6ft finish mower, tiller, box blade, hiller, 6 ft disk, and 5 foot brushhog for it, and it handles everything well. I live on 5 acres, and mow about 4 of it. I also make a fairly large garden every year. I love my tractor for use at my deer lease as well. This is my second Kubota (first one was a little undersized for what I wanted it for) and I have no complaints about the tractors.

[Ickisrulz]

I really didn't want to drive all over the state so I visited JD and Kubota. I went with the Kubota BX25D. I got a front end loader, backhoe, 60" finish mower and rototiller. I hope this is a good purchase. I'll let you know in 20 years.

[Lever-man]

The tractor that I have is a used Massy 471 diesel 65 hp. It does just about any thing I ask of it. My only regret is not waiting until a deal came along on a 45 or 50 hp with 4 wheel drive, and don't get one with out a front end loader, that's the thing you will use the most!

[snowwolfe]

Kubota 18 hp Diesel BX series. This thing is a real workhorse, doesn't cost much more than a comparable size 'lawn tractor', and has ten times the build quality.


What do they cost new?

[bdicki]

I really didn't want to drive all over the state so I visited JD and Kubota. I went with the Kubota BX25D. I got a front end loader, backhoe, 60" finish mower and rototiller. I hope this is a good purchase. I'll let you know in 20 years.
I think you'll be happy.

[John Allen]

I have a 17horse power Deere as long as you do not overwork them they are fine. I had my tires foam filled and this made a big difference in the tractors usefulness.

[crappie-hunter]

If you buy a Kubota get the B series. My 2013 BX 2660 is OK but the loader is sad. RPM's have to be at least 2500 to get any satisfactory speed out of the loader. Dealer told me that the B series has a larger capacity hydraulic pump and has a much faster loader. I found this out after the fact,and complained ,I was offered what I paid for the BX2660 in trade for a B series,but at $3000 more I passed on the offer and just complain every time I try and use the loader.

[Gator 45/70]

I have a Kubota L3901, with a 5' quick detachable bucket and a med. duty bush-hog, Bought this baby in April after playing 4 dealers against each other.
Shop around, Get quotes, Call the dealer back and tell him so-in-so beat your price by___
They will come down!!!

[Elkins45]

I have a Kubota L3800 and have been pleased with it, but when you say subcompact that makes me think B or BX series, not L.

My Kubota was made in Japan but I think some of the new ones are being put together in Georgia. The John Deere are all made by subcontractors in India or Korea, so don't be swayed by brand loyalty to older US iron. Just skip the middleman and get a LS, Kioti or Mahindra if you want Korean or Indian.

[snowwolfe]

Soooo...... What kind of money are we talking for one of the smaller models?

[Frank46]

And was out today to get the eyeballs checked and noticed that regular gas was 2.25 a gallon and diesel was only 20 cents more. Time to stock up on some cheap(relatively speaking) diesel. Frank

[Ickisrulz]

Soooo...... What kind of money are we talking for one of the smaller models?

Go to the Kubota website and select the build option. Add what you want and that will give you an MRSP. Subtract about 15% and you will be close. JD will be more for comparable models and Mahindra will be less.

[Ickisrulz]

I have been enjoying my tractor. I have a few hours on it moving dirt around and leveling out my pole barn that I have been working on since Oct 2013. This tractor was my wife's idea, not mine. I told her than we'd be OK without one and that they are expensive for the amount we'd be using it. But, she listed the projects she had in mind and I accepted her counsel.

[Lever-man]

Wise man!

[Fishman]

Tractoring is just as much fun as reloading and shooting, sometimes more. Nothing like imposing your will on a big pile o' mess and making it look good. The amount of work you can get done vs. Just you and a hand tool is amazing. For many people, a tractor is their hobby.

[MUSTANG]

Tractoring is just as much fun as reloading and shooting, sometimes more. Nothing like imposing your will on a big pile o' mess and making it look good. The amount of work you can get done vs. Just you and a hand tool is amazing. For many people, a tractor is their hobby.


Not sure that it is a hobby; but it allows cleaning/modifying property that I would not be willing to pay for as hired out work. As an example the 1st picture below is the Rock we have collected so far from around the property in Montana as we clean up natures debris from the last Ice Age that is strewn across and under the surface of the property. That pile is currently about 20 feet x 15 feet x 8 feet tall. We had 8 Dump truck loads hauled away in late spring, seems like we are growing boulders and rocks at times.

146596

In this next pic is my "Tractor Park". It has the John Deere 3005 we are currently using, and under the blue tarp is our late 1980's vintage John Deere 750 that was totally burned in a fire created by Southern Nevada Water Authority at our house in Moapa. We are slowly dismantling and rebuilding the John Deere 750, hope to have a second small tractor in the next 3 years once the restoration is completed.

146597


P.S. The wife made me buy both the 750 and the replacement 3005, hate it when she does that. :kidding: :bigsmyl2:

[Ickisrulz]

146608

146609

Here is my son doing some back hoe work today. He is actually not too bad.

[AK Caster]

Would a Kubato B series 2601 have the power to use a front end loaded for digging around our lake? I want to remove the gradual slope along the edge then take the material and fill in the damn and make it higher.
Also would use the tractor to create some small food plots on our property.
Good choice?

[paul h]

Soooo...... What kind of money are we talking for one of the smaller models?

Used depending on size, condition and attachments you're looking at starting prices around $10k and it's not hard to spend $20k. New can easily be double that, and then some.

I've been very fortunate to have a friend with a little Kubota tractor that I can borrow

http://forums.accuratereloading.com/evefiles/photo_albums/3/4/4/344100033/9991099002_A00BAD141C0B1035A8002A669F94737B.jpg

It's 18 horse, 4wd with back ho, and box brake. For my 1/2 acre lot it's been great for minor excavation, leveling and small landscaping projects. But if I was looking at working 2-5 acres, IMHO a 30 hp tractor would be much more useful and the minimum size I'd want.

[thxmrgarand]

I have a 2 cylinder, 16 horse, 4 WD Yanmar Japanese tractor. It is arguably too small or light but it was a steal, and after 10 trouble-free years it owes me nothing. As a front-end loader it is too small to amount to much moving dirt but it moves snow real well. I have moved dirt with a much larger Kubota and the shuttle-shift and power steering make it an entirely more useful machine. The frame-mounted backhoe is very handy, and the cautions about 3-pt hitch backhoes make sense to me although I have never seen one. In addition to digging holes I have pulled engines from trucks and moved a hot-tub, which is amazing for such a tiny machine. I wish I could buy a pick-up truck designed and built with the same quality and intelligence. It is the only thing I have ever owned which if I leave it in front of the house fellows stop and knock on the door to ask if it might be for sale. If your property isn't flat you need to be careful about staying upright.

[MarkP]

I have a Yanmar 155D 2 cyl diesel, 16 hp, 4WD, Like thxmrgarnd's tractor. Due to the compact size it is great for digging holes with my 9" auger. Not enough power to efficiently run a 48" rotary mower. Travel speed no more the a slow walk is about it. Will pull a 6' disc reasonably well due to the 4WD but must be in low range and 3rd gear; high range and 1st will lug it down too much. Based off of owning mine for 15 yrs I would recommend a minimum PTO HP of 25-27.

[Elkins45]

^^^^ I agree completely with your horsepower recommendation. I went too low with my first one and wasn't happy until I traded up a couple of years ago.

[AK Caster]

How would the Kubota B3350 (33.0HP - Gross/ 27.0HP - PTO) stack up for the small land owner for doing food plot chores as well as keeping a long gravel road in good shape and the occasional stump removing job and light back hoe use?

[GRUMPA]

I own a Kama 354TS that I use on my place, and it's a 40 acre place. I use the bush hog, 12" post hole digger, box blade, 12" sub soiler, 10' landscape rake with it. I wouldn't know about the back-hoe part but I know folks that have them and can't use them here. The soil here is like rock but it's clay, and the clay from you know where. I've run the big back-hoes with 18" buckets, and at times, I had to but the 12" bucket on just to get through some of it.

Mine is a 4cyl 4x4 diesel with a rated 35HP at the PTO. I can mow with my bush hog in 2nd gear all day long, not 3rd gear. But keep in mind I don't like running higher RPM's so when I run the tractor 5hrs the hobbs meter shows only 2 if that gives you an idea. Using the box blade.....when full....and I mean full.....I can use 3rd gear at just above an idle with no problem when the roads are dry. When they're wet I need to put it in 4WD and run in 2nd gear.....again at just above an idle.

Mine has a front end loader with a 6 cu ft capacity, scooping, scraping, whatever....has no effect on the engine at all. I bought a bolt on tooth bar for it to rip up the dirt, that's where I take it easy and don't push it, not because of the engine but because I don't want to break the front end loader.

Using the post hole digger.....doesn't even phase the engine, not a bit. Takes time to drill a hole in this area but it does do it in time. To give folks an idea, I did 6 holes to plant trees, I wore the teeth out.

Using the landscape rake is nothing for that tractor, real simple and the results are something to take pride in.

Every now and then....I pull 4x4's that get stuck. Yeah they think those 40" tires somehow prevent them from getting stuck, but I guess they just read about it in a brochure somewhere, in real life results seem to fall short.

The mud out here, when it gets wet.....just sticks to the tires and creates racing slicks in like 15'.

A couple of times I had to pull them out going backwards, they were stuck so good....I had to use the tooth bar to help push me backwards while I was in reverse.

All in all a nice 35HP machine....

[Elkins45]

How would the Kubota B3350 (33.0HP - Gross/ 27.0HP - PTO) stack up for the small land owner for doing food plot chores as well as keeping a long gravel road in good shape and the occasional stump removing job and light back hoe use?

I can't answer the question about the backhoe but the rest should be no problem.

[jmort]

It has probably been answered in this thread, but any backhoe needs to be frame mounted, not just a 3-pt attachment. I maintained a couple miles of roads/driveway with 5 different tractors from 25 to 60 hp. If I were in that situation again I would get at least 35 hp. PTO hp was not as important as I did not use the PTO.

[singleshot]

+1 on if you need a front end loader, 4wd is a must. Also consider, with the same hp rating a heavier tractor can do more. With the same hp rating a 4wd tractor can do more. (Previous two statements don't apply to mowing where hp is king.) I now have a Kubota TLB35 which weighs 7000 lbs with 35 hp, and the only time it was lacking rather than overkill for me was when I tried to run a 6' rough-cut mower thru a field. If I never ran a mower, 5000 lbs and 18 hp would be plenty for my 5 acres in a mountain forest. I like my front end loader, but without it two-wheel drive with chains would be fine.

[singleshot]

How would the Kubota B3350 (33.0HP - Gross/ 27.0HP - PTO) stack up for the small land owner for doing food plot chores as well as keeping a long gravel road in good shape and the occasional stump removing job and light back hoe use?

Stumps are deceptive! My TLB35 had a HARD TIME with a stump in my yard. I had to dig 6' all the way around it to pull it out. You're better off waiting for a good soaking rain and chaining up to it 6-10' up the trunk and pulling the whole thing over before cutting it up. Dynamite (or black powder) is more effective for stump removal than a backhoe IMO.

[singleshot]

+1 on frame mounted backhoe if that is a requirement!

[jmort]

Stump removal is best accomplished by the largest track-hoe you can get to the stump. You don't have to dig around it, you rip it out. Takes a large machine to do that. Don't ever chain a stump to the top of a three point hitch. You will put yourself in grave danger.

[Elkins45]

Stump removal is best accomplished by the largest track-hoe you can get to the stump. You don't have to dig around it, you rip it out. Takes a large machine to do that. Don't ever chain a stump to the top of a three point hitch. You will put yourself in grave danger.

Yeah, that would be a really fast way to learn why all those warning stickers say "always pull from the drawbar," assuming you survived the experience. Every tractor has enough HP to rotate itself around its own rear axle.

[singleshot]

Stump removal is best accomplished by the largest track-hoe you can get to the stump. You don't have to dig around it, you rip it out. Takes a large machine to do that. Don't ever chain a stump to the top of a three point hitch. You will put yourself in grave danger.

Sorry I wasn't clear enough...I don't know what "top of a three point hitch" means. You use the leverage of the tree against the stump. I either use the hook on my front end loader, or a tow bar on the 3-pt hitch. You leave 6-10 feet of trunk on the tree and use that leverage to pull the stump out of the ground. I've done it hundreds of times quite successfully (except for the one I had to dig around, which I didn't leave enough trunk on to have enough leverage.) And you don't need an outsized machine with this method. You just need a chain or strap long enough to stay out of the way of the trunk when it comes down. Were you more concerned about the chain breaking?

I don't really understand the warning. What's the danger in your mind jmort?

[singleshot]

Yeah, that would be a really fast way to learn why all those warning stickers say "always pull from the drawbar," assuming you survived the experience. Every tractor has enough HP to rotate itself around its own rear axle.

If you chain high on the trunk you will lose traction before rotating around the axle would ever be a concern.

[blackthorn]

Off topic a bit but my son and I removed 25 pine trees, measuring from 8 to 18 inches across, from my lot at the lake. We used a very long, stiff, half-inch rope, (fish net lead line) 2 snatch-blocks and my son's Chevy Blazer. We used a tail hold on a tree base, ran the rope through a block, which we then hung about 15 feet up the tree to be removed. We ran the rope back to the base of the tail hold tree, through the second block and up the hill to the trailer hitch on the Blazer. Then he began to rock the tree. About 4 or 5 "rocks" and over goes the tree. This leaves you with only a hole in the ground to fill! No muss, fuss or stump to dig out. Oh---to keep it on topic---you could use a tractor instead of a truck!

[singleshot]

Yep, snatch blocks are probably the "A" answer, but my tractor is a lot heavier than a Blazer. :-) The tree I couldn't pull out that way had a trunk that was about 5 feet in diameter! :-o I probably would have needed to be 20-25' up on that tree to get enough leverage. Unfortunately I don't have a long enough chain.

[jmort]

"I don't really understand the warning. What's the danger in your mind jmort?"

Sounds like you know your way around a 3 point hitch/tractor. when I got my first tractor many years ago I could have easily been one of the "typical cases" cited below:

​NIOSH Update:
Contact: Fred Blosser (202) 260-8519
January 14, 1997
According to the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH), farmers and others who use tractors are at risk for severe injury or death if proper hitching methods are not used when towing or pulling objects with tractors.
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/images/tractor1.gif
In a recent article (http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/00040898.htm) in the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report, NIOSH warned that improperly attaching a tow chain to a point above the tractor's drawbar can cause tractors to suddenly flip backward. These rear rollovers often result in injury or death.
On October 29, 1994, a 13-year old male sustained severe fatal head trauma when the 1953-model tractor he was using overturned to the rear while pulling a felled 18 inch diameter tree that was still partially attached at the stump. The tow chain had been hooked directly around the rear axle. The tractor did not have a roll over protective structure (ROPS).
Between April 1991 and June 1996, 28 incidents of sudden rear rollover of tractors were documented in New York by NIOSH's Occupational Health Nurses in Agricultural Communities program. Sixteen of these incidents resulted in death. Improperly hitching equipment or material for towing caused the rollovers in 60% of these incidents. Environmental circumstances such as muddy conditions, wet ground, snow-covered, hilly or uneven terrain may have contributed to some of the incidents.
These figures are particularly tragic because we know that proper hitching and ROPS on tractors would have prevented most, if not all of these injuries and deaths," said NIOSH Director, Dr. Linda Rosenstock. "We must work together to decrease the toll of tractor related incidents on America's farms.
As the number of people using tractors for towing and hauling increases during the winter months, it is important that they are informed of the hazards associated with hitching and the proper prevention measures. NIOSH requests the assistance of the farming community, media, Cooperative Extension Service, equipment manufacturers, and dealers to help deliver this important safety message.
Typical CasesOn September 3, 1991, a 71-year old male part-time farmer was fatally injured when his 1950-model tractor overturned to the rear while pulling a downed tree. He suffered multiple trauma with a fractured neck and jaw. The tow chain used to pull the tree had been hitched above the drawbar of the tractor. The tractor was not equipped with ROPS.
On December 3, 1991, a 33-year old male farm worker died as a result of multiple head and trunk injuries when the 1958-model tractor he was using to pull a pickup truck filled with wood overturned to the rear. The tow chain had been hitched high on the back of the tractor. The tractor did not have ROPS.
On January 3, 1994, a 42-year old female farmer died from chest injuries when a 1970-model tractor she was using to pull a loaded pickup truck out of snow overturned to the rear. The tow chain had been attached at the top link connection of the tractor's three point hitch. The tractor did not have a ROPS.
On June 22, 1996, a 29-year old male died from multiple crushing injuries when his 1950-model tractor flipped over, pinning him underneath. The operator of the tractor was clearing trees and brush in the yard of his newly built home. The tow chain was found to be attached to a six inch tree stump, and fastened at the top of the three point hitch attachment.
Steps for Prevention

Use farm tractors equipped with ROPS, and wear a safety belt.
Carefully select the hitching point to a tractor.
Don't alter the drawbar by raising or shortening it.
Never attach the load directly to the axle.
Never use a two or three-point hitch as a single-point hitch instead of the drawbar.
If the load attaches by a single point, attach it only to the drawbar.
Ensure that the tractor operator is familiar with safe use of the equipment.
Select a strong tow chain with a length sufficient to allow adequate stopping distance between the towed object and the towing vehicle to avoid collision and rear rollover.
Ensure a cleared work area for greater maneuvering.
Use slow, steady pull.
When using a tractor to free an embedded vehicle, hitch the vehicles front-to-front and drive the towing tractor in reverse to minimize the risk of rollover.

DHHS (NIOSH) Publication No. 97-108


This was just in New York alone. Many have died in this fashion:

Between April 1991 and June 1996, 28 incidents of sudden rear rollover of tractors were documented in New York by NIOSH's Occupational Health Nurses in Agricultural Communities program. Sixteen of these incidents resulted in death. Improperly hitching equipment or material for towing caused the rollovers in 60% of these incidents.

[MarkP]

My cousin was killed the same way.

[myg30]

I have a ford 8N, 1948. Box blade and bush hog. It's a work horse. Not 4wd and has its limits but for 10 acre lot it does good.
I have stumbled into a 1984 2wd, John Deere with front end loader, low hours and overall very good condition. The bucket sure saves back braking shoveling chores and the pto is much safer than the old 8N live pto.
This time of year good deals can be found but you have to be in the right place at the right time.

Mike

[ranger1962]

I had an older J.D. 650 diesel I loved it. We sold our place so I didn't need it anymore. The thing I liked about it was as small as it was I was able to get through garden gates and into places a bigger tractor would never be able too access.

[snowwolfe]

I really didn't want to drive all over the state so I visited JD and Kubota. I went with the Kubota BX25D. I got a front end loader, backhoe, 60" finish mower and rototiller. I hope this is a good purchase. I'll let you know in 20 years.

Thought I would resurface this interesting thread to see if you are still content with your tractor.

[Ickisrulz]

Thought I would resurface this interesting thread to see if you are still content with your tractor.

Yes, it has worked well for me and my uses. I have not mowed with it yet, but have done lots of dirt moving with the FEL and a back blade. I also dug a 120 feet long, 3-4 foot deep trench. It's not as fast as the big guys, but can do a lot of work in a reasonable amount of time. I used our Land Pride reverse tiller to get the garden ready...much easier than the walk behind and did a fantastic job. I have about 55 hours on the clock.

[snowwolfe]

Thanks for the update. I visited the dealership today and spent some time looking at the same rig and talking to the salesperson.
Think this rig would have enough power to handle all the duties for maintaining and planting a small food plot?

[Ickisrulz]

Thanks for the update. I visited the dealership today and spent some time looking at the same rig and talking to the salesperson.
Think this rig would have enough power to handle all the duties for maintaining and planting a small food plot?

I am not sure what all that would entail so I cannot give an intelligent answer. The BX25 can do an awful lot if you don't want to do it as fast as someone with a larger tractor.

[PaulG67]

I have had my BX-25 for 4 1/2 years now, FEL, BH, 51" TPI snowblower, best machine I have ever had. Had two others as mentioned in post 22. The BX will do all I need it to, not this past winter but the one before I was routinely moving two feet of snow from my 100 foot driveway with the blower. I could have got the blower that mount on the front but that means no FEL and that's real handy in snow. My next project is to rebuild a bridge across a stream in order to get onto the parkland that is many thousands of acres adjoining my property. So many fallen trees out there just begging to be removed.

Snowwolfe I believe the BX will be all you need for a food plot. You may need an attachment or two, I would look for those in used condition,

[snowwolfe]

Thanks, I will keep my eyes open for a great deal on a new or used one. No hurry on my end.

[SweetMk]

My toys!!

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h332/sweetmk22/John%20Deere%20650/27e7ecfa-b1b3-4b39-bdc5-ff803d8e225f_zps8cb2abkt.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h332/sweetmk22/John%20Deere%20650/855/855-2_zpsieeaffsi.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h332/sweetmk22/Accessories%202012/2012-09-09141258800x519.jpg

All 4WD,,, this is more addictive than Smith and Wesson,,, :-o

Did I mention L E A D makes great wheel weights!!?? :bigsmyl2: