let's here your chainsaw woes.

[nagantguy]

I'll add mine later, suffice it to say, out of 4 saws that were all tip top last year this year so far 2 trips to a service place and contaminated fuel additives and 4 yep 4 trips to get the right chain for the newest Husqvarna

[snowwolfe]

My biggest complaint is my inability to sharpen a chain correctly! Last week my brother could not get his Stihl started. He tried everything, new plug, fresh gas, etc. He was ready to have the saw rebuilt he was so frustrated.
I finally talked him into spraying a little starting fluid into the air cleaner and it fired up on the second pull and ran better than ever for the remaining of the week. Even the idle was smoother.

[dragonrider]

Of the many small engine devices I have my chainsaw is the most relieable, always starts after just a few pulls and runs great. My hedgeclipper however is a much different beasty. It seldom starts at all and no amount of cussin will help. I have to take it to the shop I bought it from, which is just a short walk across the street, convinient but an aggravation when I need the tool.

[scarry scarney]

I have three chainsaws (two electric, one gas). I try to keep the chains sharp. Had a neighbor always coming over to borrow my chainsaws (his were never sharp), and would always return dull chains. I told him about the Harbor Freight Chain Saw sharpener and he hasn't bothered me again! Now, if I could ever get the wife to sharpen the electric chains after she dulls them.......

[44man]

Burned my Husky up. I was cutting a tree down and it went to a million rpm's and froze up. Ruined the piston and cylinder before I could get off the trigger. Over $300 for parts, trashed it.
I think the tank clunk was not in gas and it leaned out bad.
Had my Husky leaf blower fail to start, rings were froze in with carbon. I replaced parts to fix. I switched to Opti-2 oil. My Stihl trimmer failed with Stihl oil, carboned up the exhaust. Opti-2 fixed after cleaning.
I bought an Echo chain saw and it is the best I ever had.
I still have a huge, old Solo that I cut tons of lumber for stocks and furniture.
The worst saw on earth was the mac-10 and Poulan small saws. No bushings or bearings on the crank, steel to steel. Mac 10 would never ever start again after a while. Big Macs were good.
Never, ever use 2 stroke oil. Use synthetic and Opti-2 has been the best.
I have worked on small engines all my life and seen it all.
Right now the Echo has been the best. Second is Solo but parts are a maze and hard to find. Very hard to take apart too.
I would never buy a saw from Sears.
Go to Cutter's Choice for parts and chain. get a roll of chain, easy to make your own. They have everything. Jack's Small engines is great.

[jrap]

I've had a husky 455 rancher for 4 years and it's still going strong. I put a 24 in bar and a good chain on it and it has plenty of power. Granted it's only a 55 but it's good enough for my needs. Only problem is huskies don't oil too well

[timspawn]

I have a ton of saws and lawn equipment come through here every year. The guys that use them for a living use Stihl and Echo. Husqvarna is a distant third. They get used year round here because we don't have a real winter. I would have to give the edge to Echo from seeing some of the abuse these hammerheads dish out. I think the real solution to keeping a saw in good condition is to run it at least once a month and either use non ethanol gas or Sta-Bil.

[44man]

I detest small engine shops, they will rip you off big time. Take a mower in, you can buy a new one.
My mowers brigs failed, not right from the factory and out of warranty. 17 horse. They wanted $1300 for a replacement. I went to Northern Supply and got a 21 HP for $600, dropped right in and cuts like gangbusters.
If you have a Brigs that is hard to turn over, beware, something is wrong inside if it acts like a dead battery. It will break. Take it back quick.

[labradigger1]

Good year here so far for the saws. Husqvarna 51, 365, 372xp and a still 041 have all been flawless this year. I use only premium gasoline and husky oil.
The gravely rider on the other hand has gotten a lot of my time this year.
Lab

[garym1a2]

My 310 and 390 run great. They are just a bear to start. the 310 takes 6-8 pulls and the 390 takes over 10. The 390 also leaks chain oil, both cut great once running.

[osteodoc08]

Have an Echo 450 for 5-6 years now. Keep it full of fresh gas with stabilizer. I drive outbid the way to get ethanol free gas. Been running fine. Pulled the carb caps and adjusted them to run right. There is an awesome chainsaw forum over on arborist site and you could read chainsaw threads for days.

[blackthorn]

We bought this place in 2004. A year later the Pinebeetle arrived and killed all 33 of our beautiful big Ponderosa pines. I hadbought a small (20”) arborists chainsaw (Echo) just to feed my shop stove so Istarted to cut up those big pines. Most were so big it took 3 cuts to getthrough. After doing 12 big pines, I went to the dealer and bought another Echobut with a longer bar and a bit more power. Echo is top of the line as far as Iam concerned! The dealer told me that, unlike most of the other brands, Echodoes not make a lighter version for non-commercial buyers, rather, all their sawsare commercial grade. I use premium gas with a stabilizer and even when my sawssit for several months between uses, they start right up and run withoutproblems.

[snowwolfe]

I never seen the need for stabilizer, IMO it's just money wasted. I had not used my saw for 2 years so the gas was at least 2.5 years old and it started and ran perfectly last week until I dulled both chains I had on hand.

[Hannibal]

I bought 2 new Stihl chain saws 10 years ago. I've always used Stihl 2-stroke oil and installed a new plug in each every 2 years. I cut around 12 cords of wood a year and have had no trouble so far.

My old saws were a different story. Glad to be rid of them. YMMV.

[Gofaaast]

I run nothing but Stihl. When I was 13-20yrs old I cut wood or hedge posts almost every day after school during the fall and winter. I used nothing but stihl oil and 2 saws needed a new piston and cylinder after a couple years. Switched to amsoil mixed 50 to 1 and never wore out another saw. I make sure now to get real gas not ethanol blend for all my power tools and I don't have any issues, unless the neighbor borrows my cheap poulan weedeater and fills it with his ethanol mixed gas. It has something in her carb that corrodes and plugs a screen up in the carb so I have to take it apart blow the screen out dump his gas and it's good to go until against my wishes he uses his gas and not mine that I provide for free no less errr.

[starmac]

I think saw preference is a locality thing, probably had to do with dealer service in the area at some point.

There is not a whole lot of logging left in these parts, but since I bought the log truck, I have gotten aquainted with most of them. They pretty much use huskies here 100% across the board. The ones I have talked to have used and tried others, but ultimately went back to huskies. The main concern they have is starting especially in cold weather, 90 % of the logging done here is in the winter, and if they have to put the saw in the cab of the pickup to warm it enough to start, they have no use for it.

One funny story of a saw involves a logger friend of mine and several trucker friends.
Someone left a dollmar ( this particular logger has 3 dollmars he bought and tried, but doesn't use them) Anyway the truckers noticed that someone had left a saw on a stump close to the road, but it was on a hill so they wouldn't stop to get it. They told Dick where it was so he could stop on his way out in the pickup. He did and walked through the snow to get it, checked the gas, pulled the rope 5 or 6 times and put it back on the stump. lol

[white eagle]

used to use Stihl too but had trouble with them
switched over to Husky's have a 460 (before the rancher)and a xp model don't recall the #
use premium only,no ethanol and stabil for storage.had to rebuild the carb and replace spark plug
on log splitter because of ethanol
cut and split whole lot of oak

[Houndog]

Just a little tip for those that don't know,
If you are using a Husky or a Stihl saw WITH THEIR BRAND BARS, if you look at the back of the bar where it attaches to the power head you will see a symbol stating the size chain, it's proper drive tooth and the number of links needed to fit the bar.

[Harter66]

Many yrs ago we cut wood commercially. We had Sach Dolmar saws at 1st . We had a 114 and 119 the 1st yr and we cut about 75 cord for sale the next yr we added another 119 and cut 125 for sale the 3rd yr the 1st 114 died about mid season and we finished out at 175 cords for the season with the 1st 119 getting sick . We bought a Husky 51 and a 61 but ran the 2nd Sachs till it gave up that season we cut over 210 cords . The Huskys were about 2 lbs lighter than the Sachs but I'll tell at the end of the day your hands paid for vibration transmission of the Husky . The Mckluck I ran for my home wood from 97-05 was a 10-10 I think I cut probably 50-60 cords with 2 of them, the ropes and recoil gave me the most trouble with them. The were 2nd hand and ran as near as I could tell just like the Sachs .
I didn't like the feel of the Stihl I ran for a day ,I don't know what exactly I didn't like .

Over all I think unless I were going to just stand on a saw bucking all day the Husky would win out today . If I were going to cut lengths from logs and a Sachs or 1 of those 10-10s were around I'd run those instead .

Funny we mixed gas 5 gallons at a time and it never seemed to matter as far as starting and running what we mixed with Valvoline, Pennzoil, or a couple of trips straight 30 wt .

We wore out bars and sprockets too . We used carbide chain from Northern tool and supply then .

I had a tree roll on me once ,gogo chain brake, it took just 17 stitches to c lose up the saw bite . It kind of gets my whiskers in a twist when I think about that ruined pair of pants ....... I lost more glasses ,I think I bought a new pair every week .

Recently it seems like my Dad has his saws in every time he wants to use them ,fuel issues fouled or eaten up carbs and seals seem like the biggest offenders.

[sixonetonoffun]

Burnt up my everthing saw last fall just have a couple 1 handers and an old 32" useable at the moment. Have about 1/2 the wood for this winter. A lot of cutting left. Don't mind sawing but splitting... tore up a shoulder last fall will take it a bit slower this year.

[2wheelDuke]

I have a Poulan that I bought recently. I had one years ago, I think my dad bought it. It's not for heavy duty use, just cleanup around the house.

I found out that my brother used it last, because I found it when I was mowing some high grass at my parents' house. I failed to get it running right again, all the fuel lines inside were rotted away and I gave up. But I had bought a new bar and new chain for it, so I got one that'd take the parts I'd already bought.

So far so good with it, but when it finally goes, I'm getting an Echo to replace it.

[Rick Hodges]

I have two Huskies....an old 176 compact (maybe 18 yrs old..) stopped running...seems ethanol in the gas rotted fuel lines and clogged the carb...had it repaired the mechanic said I still had about half the bearing life left...use non ethanol polluted gas or starbrite ethanol treatment and to stop using marine 2 cyc. oil. Seems the marine stuff (mercruiser) is not good for air cooled motors. My mechanic is a Michigan UP woodcutter, he loved the old Huskies but now touts the Echo. I bought a larger Husky 446 a few years ago and use both for general maintenance and cutting wood for a woodstove at the the cabin. I figure both saws will outlast me if I keep them in good fuel. I sharpen with a file after every use.

My buddy bought the small homeowner Stihl and it has been a nightmare, plastic throttle linkage always breaking, cant keep it running.

[CastingFool]

I have a small Stihl for yard clean up and such, with a 14" bar. Bought it in 2004, has always run great for me, and it's easy to forget it requires maintenance once in a while. Just recently, I had a hard time starting it. A dirty air filter was causing the problem. Blew the junk off with compressed air, and started right up. BTW, I have a friend who used to own a tool rental shop, when asked which chainsaw to get, he didn't hesitate. "Echo"

[starmac]

Echo is half price of a comparable cc husky or stihl and tough enough to boot. However power to weight ratio is not comparable, nor is the AV system, perfect for the rental industry, but you never see loggers use them.

For a homeowner cutting his own firewood, they make perfect sense, unless he or she has carpal tunnel or other problems that are sensitive to vibration.

[Anschutz]

I've had a few saws. Fixed my dad's husky 41 after he and my mom split and made the mistake of telling him. Bought a Husky 36 for $35 as is and all it needed was a new gas line. Bought a husky 268 off of eBay for 315 to cut a tree for my fiancé grandmother and flipped it for 350. Good saw just needed it one time. The 36 I left with a friend in NY because he was borrowing another friends saw so he needed one. My dad was 5th generation so I've been around saws my whole life.

[Taylor]

I have a Poulan,what can I say? But it does start every now and then.

[Rkm]

best advise I have got on chainsaws is to run the gas tank dry each time. My mechanic says @ 60% of all problems he sees is gummed up fuel systems

[tygar]

I bought a Homelite SuperXL 22" (I think) in the late 70s. I cut a bunch of firewood with it for a couple years then moved to AK & cut a crp load of firewood with it. One year I cut & used 10 cords. It has cut trees 4' thick. It's now 2015 & I still have that saw, it still works fine & I have only had to buy a couple bars, a number of chains & have done a couple of PMs & services on it.

I can't think of another gas powered item that has provided such service. They sure did something right with that saw!

[Mk42gunner]

Dad logged and cut firewood the last five or six years of his life and used a Husky 61. I have it now the oil pump needs replaced, but I really don't need that big of a saw, so it languishes in the barn.

I bought a used Husky 141 for trimming trees, it worked real good until one of the nuts that are supposed to hold the carb on came off and got sucked into the intake at full throttle. Can you say sudden stop?

I now have a Husky 435 16" bar that does well no more than I need a chain saw. It beats the Craftsman (Echo) 14" we had when I was a kid.

Just about any saw beats the old Montgomery Ward gear drive that weighed about thirty pounds that I learned with in the '70's.

Robert

[Pipefitter]

After 12 years of ethanol polluted gas my Husky 55 died last year. Bought a 455 because it uses the same bars and chains. Easier starting than the 55. Weighs less and outcuts my buddy's similar size Sthil. Ethanol free gas is non existent around here, so I pay through the nose for pre-mixed fuel.

On the other hand, after the storms a couple weeks ago a neighbor had 2 dead ash trees (3-4 foot diameter trunks), a maple and an oak removed from around his house. Tree company dropped all the wood in my driveway. I run one tank of gas through the saw each night after work, and every 3rd day it takes one tank of gas in the log splitter to catch up. My lovely wife of 32 years stacks the wood for me while I am at work.

[bayjoe]

Every year when I finish using my saw I run it out of gas, squirt a little oil in the cylinder and my little saw fires right up every spring.

[retread]

Ended my chainsaw woes twenty years ago when I bought my Stihl. Stihl going strong!:bigsmyl2:

[leeggen]

I had a Mac back in late 70"s and it ran for 12 yrs and died. Bought a sthil 025 in 2000, was given an 024AV in 2002, bought an used 029 in 2008 and a 017 in 2004. All saws are running except the 017 and it needs a fuel line and carb cleanig. All the saws were ran long and hard from the time I got them until 2012. I still cut 16 rick of wood (5 cord) each yr. only the 017 has been to the shop. Plugs an clean filter, and redress bars and chains and fuel my mix in a 1 gallon gas can that goes with the saw "IF" I loan it to a freind. Three pulls with choke on to get a hit then no choke and three pulls and we are cutting. Can't complain about my sthils.
CD

[Sweetpea]

My old McCulloch went up against my Toyota, and the Toyota won...

Was happy to be rid of that chain-throwing P. O. JUNK!

Now I have two Stihls that run great, and one Poulan...

The Poulan gets loaned out, the Stihls do not!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Every year when I finish using my saw I run it out of gas, squirt a little oil in the cylinder and my little saw fires right up every spring.
hmm, you are the only one mentioning this.
I started cutting firewood to heat my house in 1998. A friend swapped me a older stihl 024 (16" bar) that he feared was on it's last leg, it was about 10 years old. A few years later, because I liked that Stihl so much, I bought a larger Stihl, a 360Pro with a 20" bar, I believe it's 62cc. I use both saws yet, to this day. But I did have some fuel issues with both of them about two years after I bought the 360Pro...I was given a tip, since I cut when opportunity strikes, I cut year round...yes in the winter in MN is tricky if we have a couple feet of snow, but is still possible...but sometimes, when there is no opportunity to cut, the saw can sit for a month or two.
ANYWAY,
the tip is, when "any" cutting job is done, I drain the gas and run the carb dry. I've never had a fuel problem since. That's right ...same saws...same trick...over 10 years and I cut and burn about 4 or 5 cords a year...NEVER another fuel problem.

[Iowa Fox]

I have three chainsaws (two electric, one gas). I try to keep the chains sharp. Had a neighbor always coming over to borrow my chainsaws (his were never sharp), and would always return dull chains. I told him about the Harbor Freight Chain Saw sharpener and he hasn't bothered me again! Now, if I could ever get the wife to sharpen the electric chains after she dulls them.......

Always wondered how one of the sharpeners from Harbor Freight would work?

[flydoc]

Had a new Poulan and getting it started was a chore, after a hundred pulls I was worn out, took it to a local shop and asked them to see what they could do. They worked on it and pronounced it good , and even started it up for me. I took it home and anticipated a pile of firewood , but after another hundred pulls I got nothing. I sat it on a stump, went in the house and got my 50 cal hawkins, loaded it up and proceeded to create many small bits of green plastic and chunks of metal. When I was done I went to TSC and got a Husky 435 and have never had any issues in 6 yrs.

[Frank46]

Had an old Homelite with 16" bar. used it for years and it finally died an honorable death. Poulan I had once ran great for about a few months. Kept spitting the chain off the bar so got rid of it. Now have an Echo which runs great. Frank

[starmac]

Homelights are funny critters. I bought the littlest one they made and used that thing for years, just when I needed it. It would always start right up easy, even if it had been a couple of years since I had used it.
I loaned it out and got back some sorry scrap iron, so the next time I needed a saw, I bought the same exact saw, it was easier to chew the wood into than it was to start that piece of, anyway I kept it around a month or so and gave it away.

[44man]

I loved the Husky but if something happens, it is the price of parts that was crazy.
Stihl is still a great saw. Too expensive though.
Solo was the very best long ago, it is made just up the road from Stihl in Germany and was one of the first chainsaw makers. 1/2 the price of a Stihl. But you will pull teeth to find parts.
ANY larger saw from any maker is better then the home owner stuff, even a large Poulan is better then the little junk.
Saws are like mowers. MTD in Ohio makes almost all mowers from the very best to Sears junk. They make most from Troy to some John Deer mowers. It is specs they follow from each store. Cut costs and they still build what you want to sell. They will toss in bearings from China instead of US made depending on the specs. The question is what do you get when you pay out the money?
Sears will order the cheapest Poulan made. Put Craftsman on it. Mowers are low grade MTD's.
I have a Yard Machine, biggest hunk of scrap metal ever made. Cheapest MTD they can ship without it falling apart.

[jmorris]

My favorite is an old iron liner bore, magnesium case homelite with a 12" bar.

Starts, runs and idles as good as the big Stihl we have (both Stihl saws we have leak bar oil until they are empty, best to dump it out with the gas before storage).

The short bar is what makes it my goto, handy and keeps me from getting into "real work".

[pworley1]

I am a Stihl user myself. I have 021, 031, 038, 041, and 056. You will notice that these are old model numbers. These saws like me are old, but they are still running stronger than me. My only problem is finding parts when something goes wrong.

[kfarm]

My old husquvarna 55 rancher started running rough and came down to the ignition so I put a new coil and started assy. The dang thing ran about 15 minutes and has lost compression, pulled the plug and the piston not moving. Sure hate to put any more money into the 20 year old saw.

[Pipefitter]

As far as loaning my chainsaws out, you would have a better chance of "borrowing" my wife than my chainsaw........

[Hannibal]

Always wondered how one of the sharpeners from Harbor Freight would work?

Well, they're kinda like Lee reloading equipment. A little patience and finesse, and they work fine. If you're short of either, I'd look for something different. (Read more expensive).

[Blammer]

my biggest complaint is that the chains don't stay sharp after cutting rocks. :)

[marvelshooter]

Always wondered how one of the sharpeners from Harbor Freight would work?

I have one and it works well. The only feature I don't use is the finger that controls how much is removed from the teeth. I advance the chain free hand and only sharpen each tooth the minimum amount to remove the shiny spot. This can vary quite a bit especially if I briefly hit something I shouldn't.

[dragonrider]

"Always wondered how one of the sharpeners from Harbor Freight would work?"

For the last few years I have been cutting pallets for firewood and one does a lot of sharpening when cutting pallets. Usually I use a dremel tool and do not remove the chain just make it tight and clamp the saw in a vise by the bar that way I can move the chain. This year I got the HF tool and am surprised it works well and I think chain life is exteneded also. So yes I am happy with it so far.

[Lloyd Smale]

When I worked in the woods as a young lad I allways owned huskys. Have had my share of problems with them but never had anything to compare to so thought it was just normal wear and tear. Ive got an uncle that is dead now but used to run a logging operation about 200 miles from here. I was sitting having a beer with him later in life when I didn't have to cut trees to eat and we were talking saws. I told him I like Husqvarna and he just shook his head. He called them saws for yuppys that want to look like a logger. Told me if I wanted a real saw to buy a stihl. About 5 years later I was looking for a new saw and figured id give one a try. Ive had it for maybe 10 years now and the only thing that's been replaced are plugs, chains and bar. granted I don't use one like I use to but this one has cut fire wood, camp wood for me. Cleared the road in my jeep and my son in law used it to cut up there fire wood for 3 years before I finally just bought one for them just like it.

[Petrol & Powder]

I cut a lot of firewood in the past but no longer use wood to heat with. I had a John Deere saw (really nothing more than an Echo with JD name) that was a great saw until I drove a loaded 3/4 ton truck over it :oops:. It was about 10 years old and that did it in.
Got a Stihl professional model and that was an outstanding saw until ethanol fuel killed it. At that point it was cheaper to buy a new saw rather than fix the old one but I got a model that used the same bar & chains so I would have spares. I had people say the sprocket would wear excessively when using that mix of old & new chains. I haven't noticed any excessive wear and if it does fail it's still cheaper than buying new chains!

Ethanol is the bane of small engines. I always drain the fuel or use stabilizer for storage but ethanol still creates havoc with small engine fuel systems.

[Petrol & Powder]

my biggest complaint is that the chains don't stay sharp after cutting rocks. :)

I Know !!! Soapstone isn't too bad but quartz really dulls them quick ;)
Maybe I'm not using the correct bar oil........

[44man]

My Echo is broken in and is hard to pull the rope even with the compression release but it starts fast.
It goes through a log like butter and I have not had to touch the chain yet.
My old Solo is one of the great big, all metal ones, weighs a ton and is about 40 years old but still works. Hooked to an Alaskan mill, it cut tons of oak, walnut, ash and cherry planks. I use a 30" bar for lumber.
I have a little 610 Solo and the engine is still good but a new sprocket, bar and chain is needed. That little bugger cut many huge trees down and cord after cord of wood. Just a 1/4" chain.
Like a Stihl, you will never wear the engine.
The Echo engine is made in Japan so it will last. We flew 1/4 scale radio control with Jap engines long ago and they can't be beat. Kioritz engines converted from back pack blowers.

[labradigger1]

Ethanol mix is terrible for 2 cycle engines. Ethanol attracts moisture and corrodes the crank bearings. I cannot buy non ethanol gas here so I squirt a little wd-40 in the carb and crank twice when done with the saw for a while.
Most saws are geared towards the homeowner and are a "cheaper" version of professional saws.
When you move up the ladder often you get an adjustable chain oiler, better air filter and more cc's and horsepower. I use my huskys to cut about 12-15 cords of hardwood a year for myself and my 71 year old dad and sometimes fell trees on my property to have a man bring his woodmizer here to saw lumber.
Professional saws are much better than the homeowners versions but they cost $$$. You need to be able to justify the added costs.
My 372 xp I bought for $150 and installed a new meteor piston and single ring as the old ones were only producing 120 lbs of pressure. For about $210.00 I revived a great saw for a quarter price of a new one.

[ballistim]

Jonsered saws have worked out well for me, have used them for years. Used to use Poulan when they were made better before they increased production to fill the stores and quality went down IMO.

Worst experience was the plastic on a Poulan melting during an extended chainsaw session causing me to stop for the day, my Jonsered earlier had a broken chain & back-up chain was being sharpened at the time.

Fortunately I've never been injured even though I've probably cut & split approximately 10 to 12 cords yearly since the late 90's.

[pmer]

If you live in a area that has ethanol blended gas for regular at the pumps don't use it in two stroke engines. Buy the non oxy stuff. Mix the oil a little rich for what is prescribed because a spark plug is much cheaper than a repair. Air cleaners can get plugged with fine sawdust too.

[winchester85]

i used to cut for a living, not i just cut now and then.
but i still have 4 stihls, an 036 pro, a 361, an 044, and an 066.
the 036 pro was power ported back in 2004 and will run with the 044 in wood under 14" or so, the 361 is the only stock saw that i own, the 044 was new in '93 and got a new piston and jug in 2001, the 066 has a dual port exhaust and has a ton of power but is on the heavy side.
i use only premium pump gas with stihl mix oil. never had any problems with gas sitting in the saws, let it sit for months and it will fire right up.

i have run husky saws, and a john deere saw. the older huskies are not bad, but i do not like the chain tension or the multiple screws to access the air filter. stihl still makes the best saw, as long as it is not a home owner version.

[winchester85]

i have 3 20" bars, 1-24",1-25", 2-32", 1-36", and one 42".

favorite bar length regardless of saw? 20"

less cutters to sharpen, less bar length equals less time in dirt!

[ascast]

and now it's chainsaws... with only one mention of a cast bullet so far, I can't tell you much about bullets and chainsaws, but I can tell you it don't take much terminal ballistics to put a snow sled out of action- permanently. Mufflers are a nice thing, more on motorsickles would be nice.
I bought a Stihl 041 in 1982 after the oil field crash sent me home. It was about $450. I am still using it. In Jan 2014 I finally took it in for a tune up. Would not run in the felling position. Carb had vibrated loose. So had some other stuff, like the kill switch etc. All fixed up for about $80.
I cut about 20 face cords per year ( that's 16inch), sometimes a lot more, seldom less.
I have 2- Mall 2 man saws, 1 Disston 2 man, 2 Mac 15's, 1 Lamb, and a pile of small Homelites Oh yeah 2 Stihl 041s. I got the 2nd at a yards sale last summer for $60, running with a sharp chain.
The old saws are heavy. My nephew got a new Stilh comparable to the 041, 20" bar. It is nose heavy; i.e. you can not set it on the ground to warm up as the tip will flip down into the dirt. Also, the bar keeps getting loose. I have not decided if he is not tightening enough or the system is ****. I suspect both.
I find 20" is best all around length. I can boot up a piece of limb wood for cutting and not have to bend over to the ouch point. not much wood over 40inches around any more and I have friends if the Mall wont start, 48" bar.
The Harbor Friehgt tool will not handle a stone big enough for a proper job on 3/8 inch chain. It leaves a tit in the bottom which you might need to file out by hand to finish the sharp on the tooth. Also, it is not so good on the rakers which need a touch every 2 or 3 sharps.
Also, they don't really get the edge angle (relief) correct. I still have to sharpen by hand to really cut properly. The grinder will balance left side to right side nicely if your careful, but they are not sharpened properly. It is an asset. I can sharpen by hand very well, but I consistently get one side a tad sharper than the other. It is imperceptible to the naked eye, the the log will tell the truth every time, about 6" in. the bar will bind.
I have always used Stilh or Husky fuel oil and mixed exactly as they say too, 91 oct from the nearest gas pump.
I do not mix the oil rich. I think the guys who design it are probably a little better informed than I am.
I have always left the tank full over winter. It always starts in 3 -5 pulls in the spring. The 2 stoke oil is stabil enuff it seems. Now that non ethanol is available, I use it. I am, not sure it is any better.
Currently I am using the cheap TSC oil not the Stilh or Husky stuff. I have noticed a hot spot one one bar. Not sure if it's starvation or failure. Will keep an eye on it and report back.

where is wilco?

[nagantguy]

Thanks for all the input guys, non ethonal go juice is hard to come by here so I run a rich fuel.mixture. I have two sthils, an Husqvarna 55 rancher a smaller husky and a 1970s jonserd that was my dads. He was a lumber man in MI upper peninsula for years, jonserd is the only saw he will use, pound for pound I'd agree with him. My big sthils the ranch king is in need of rebuild but I got the saw for 15 bucks knowing it needed rebuilt so for a few 100 I'll have a nice winter project and a nice saw. Fuel issues plague me like locust and some of you mentioned hitting things other than wood with the chain; 3 years ago cutting on a huge dead fall maple on a property line l suddenly felt like I got shot in the leg! Pulled up the leg of my charrhart chaps and saw a 5 inch piece of fence sticking out of my shin, it had grown into the tree, along with a big old steel horseshoe brad. When the Chain hit it it hit my shin bone and followed it up the leg just under the skin so only a out an inch was left sticking out. The chain faired much worse that old brad was hard as woodpecker lips and thrashed a new chain. I wear eye and ear pro and won't cut with someone who doesn't.

[PULSARNC]

I have a John Deere branded saw that is approx 40 years old and it never fails to start after 2 or 3 pulls .It was /is one of the larger Echo brand saws at the time it was bought .My Stihl is also better than 20 years old with no problems .After each use the gas is drained and the saw run until it quits .Never stored with gas in it and thus never any fuel related problems .

[Lloyd Smale]

ya the jonserd were a popular saw up here for a long time. Lots of guys that ran stihls went to them until husky bought out the company. Pretty much now just a husky with different covers on it. My dad was one that used them for years up till the last one. It started leaking gas at 3 years old and he brought it in for repair and they told him the gas tank was integral with the frame and couldn't be fixed and it was a common problem with them. He left it sitting there and came home with a stihl.
Thanks for all the input guys, non ethonal go juice is hard to come by here so I run a rich fuel.mixture. I have two sthils, an Husqvarna 55 rancher a smaller husky and a 1970s jonserd that was my dads. He was a lumber man in MI upper peninsula for years, jonserd is the only saw he will use, pound for pound I'd agree with him. My big sthils the ranch king is in need of rebuild but I got the saw for 15 bucks knowing it needed rebuilt so for a few 100 I'll have a nice winter project and a nice saw. Fuel issues plague me like locust and some of you mentioned hitting things other than wood with the chain; 3 years ago cutting on a huge dead fall maple on a property line l suddenly felt like I got shot in the leg! Pulled up the leg of my charrhart chaps and saw a 5 inch piece of fence sticking out of my shin, it had grown into the tree, along with a big old steel horseshoe brad. When the Chain hit it it hit my shin bone and followed it up the leg just under the skin so only a out an inch was left sticking out. The chain faired much worse that old brad was hard as woodpecker lips and thrashed a new chain. I wear eye and ear pro and won't cut with someone who doesn't.

[ascast]

another day and more coffee...

anti kick back chains are real garbage. I have got a couple somehow. I can cut faster with a sledge hammer. need to grind out the extra rakers. Anybody done that?

bar wear-sharpness issue- I found I was always cutting to the left and binding. The bar was worn more on one side. My cousin stopped by ( he is a log buyer at a local mill) he gave me a filing tool to square the top of the bar -WOW a few bars were out back in action in one easy evening.
you can check that with a simple carpenter square or better, machinist square.

[Petrol & Powder]

"...anti kick back chains are real garbage. I have got a couple somehow. I can cut faster with a sledge hammer...."

I feel your pain. The old saws came with good chains but then the product liability people got nervous. Most, if not all, of the consumer grade saws now come with the anti-kickback chains. You have to go to the shops that cater to the professional loggers and tree services to get chisel and semi-chisel designs. When you find professional grade chains you sometimes still have to explain that you really do want a chain that actually CUTS wood. You can also order them on-line if you know what you want.
Anti-kickback chains are great for the average suburban dweller that knows he wants a chain saw but isn't sure why he wants a chain saw. Back when I was cutting firewood as my only source of heat I didn't have a lot of time to spend on that task. I needed to maximize my production in the time I did have and aggressive chains were a big part of that productivity.

[ascast]

My local farm store ,Case IH always has a sale in the fall, buy 2 get 1 free, Stihl $1 per inch. I have a lot of chains around that need to be sharpened lol

[jonp]

"...anti kick back chains are real garbage. I have got a couple somehow. I can cut faster with a sledge hammer...."

I feel your pain. The old saws came with good chains but then the product liability people got nervous. Most, if not all, of the consumer grade saws now come with the anti-kickback chains. You have to go to the shops that cater to the professional loggers and tree services to get chisel and semi-chisel designs. When you find professional grade chains you sometimes still have to explain that you really do want a chain that actually CUTS wood. You can also order them on-line if you know what you want.
Anti-kickback chains are great for the average suburban dweller that knows he wants a chain saw but isn't sure why he wants a chain saw. Back when I was cutting firewood as my only source of heat I didn't have a lot of time to spend on that task. I needed to maximize my production in the time I did have and aggressive chains were a big part of that productivity.
Exactly. Any shop that sells saws to loggers will be able to sell you a chain that cuts. They can take the chain off of a roll and make you one. Heck, you can buy a roll of chain and make your own if you think you are going to go through that much.

Proper sharpening of a chain means much more than about anything including size of the saw within reason. I cut all of my firewood for years with a 41cc Husky. Still have it at my camp although it is over 20yrs old and I ran over it with my truck. Leaks bar and chain oil but runs like a top.

I used this one http://www.jonsered.com/us/chainsaws/cs-2253/ for several years and can't say there were many trees in northern New England I couldn't go after if I wanted. At least, any I was likely to cut down.

Jonsered and Husky are all the saw the average user really needs. Stihl's are nice but expensive, Sachs Dolmar are good if you can find them and I can't remember the last time I saw an Echo in the woods. I ran an old yellow McCulloch on a clearing job once and it was heavy but a beast. They are now owned by Husky.

Anyone know anything about Shindawa? I started seeing power equipment like chainsaws, weed wackers etc a few years ago from them. They are under the same company that bought Echo so I wonder if it's the same saw with a different name? If so it might be a bargain

http://www.chainsawland.com/2010/05/chainsaw-manufacturers.html

[JesterGrin_1]

I did not go through all of this but my one and single chain saw that I have had since 1978 is a McCulloch with a 16" bar. Sorry off hand I do not know the name or number on it. But it does have a compression release and it needs it lol. Not to mention it is a HOSS of a saw. And it is what I call a ground saw as it is very heavy and the engine is steel and iron. Every year or so I will remove the head to remove the carbon and make sure the rings are free and throw it back together throw fresh fuel in it and let it rip. But like someone else has mentioned I have had problems with the pull rope mechanism now and then returning correctly. But it is no big deal to disassemble it and clean it out and add a little grease and away we go.

I did take it into a shop a couple of years ago of which was about the time they changed the darn gas at the pumps and it would not idle for anything. I found that due to the alcohol in the fuel now I had to richen the fuel mixture just a bit and then all was well with the world. But while I was in the shop I asked the owner of which I trusted about a new saw. And he informed me that there is not a new saw made that holds a candle next to your old McCulloch lol. So yep you guessed it no new saw and still my Old Yellow McCulloch. :) . I will have to look but all I run now is Synthetic Oil Mix. I used to run Bel-Ray racing oil. Ring a Ding Ding :)

I also still now and then use my Grand Fathers 1940's 16" White 2 stroke lawnmower. But it is near the end as I can not find carburetor parts for it as the fuel adjustment threads are worn out in the carburetor. But it is still neat to me after all these years to wrap a rope around the flywheel and give it a yank and it springs to life. And it is also fun now and then with an unsuspecting person. As to turn it off you have to ground the spark plug with a piece of spring steel attached to the head. But when you do so you better not have a hold of anything metal with your other hand like the handle bars lol. It will wake you up lol.

[nagantguy]

I did not go through all of this but my one and single chain saw that I have had since 1978 is a McCulloch with a 16" bar. Sorry off hand I do not know the name or number on it. But it does have a compression release and it needs it lol. Not to mention it is a HOSS of a saw. And it is what I call a ground saw as it is very heavy and the engine is steel and iron. Every year or so I will remove the head to remove the carbon and make sure the rings are free and throw it back together throw fresh fuel in it and let it rip. But like someone else has mentioned I have had problems with the pull rope mechanism now and then returning correctly. But it is no big deal to disassemble it and clean it out and add a little grease and away we go.

I did take it into a shop a couple of years ago of which was about the time they changed the darn gas at the pumps and it would not idle for anything. I found that due to the alcohol in the fuel now I had to richen the fuel mixture just a bit and then all was well with the world. But while I was in the shop I asked the owner of which I trusted about a new saw. And he informed me that there is not a new saw made that holds a candle next to your old McCulloch lol. So yep you guessed it no new saw and still my Old Yellow McCulloch. :) . I will have to look but all I run now is Synthetic Oil Mix. I used to run Bel-Ray racing oil. Ring a Ding Ding :)

I also still now and then use my Grand Fathers 1940's 16" White 2 stroke lawnmower. But it is near the end as I can not find carburetor parts for it as the fuel adjustment threads are worn out in the carburetor. But it is still neat to me after all these years to wrap a rope around the flywheel and give it a yank and it springs to life. And it is also fun now and then with an unsuspecting person. As to turn it off you have to ground the spark plug with a piece of spring steel attached to the head. But when you do so you better not have a hold of anything metal with your other hand like the handle bars lol. It will wake you up lol.

Thank you for.bringing back childhood memories of "rattling electric death" my grandpa's old mower and one we used for years when I was a kid, yep grounding out the plug to stop the thing would zap ya for sure, sometimes even on wet or damp grass! It was a White, I couldn't recall the name! Thank you for real, when my dad was hurt and my mom had to mow cause I was to young, she rode the lighting that was about 3t years ago and she hasn't touched a mower of any type since that day.

[Petrol & Powder]

I can't speak about Shindawa saws but I've got one of their weed wackers and it's the best one I've ever owned. It's at least 12 years old and has worked perfectly every time. Never had a moment of trouble out of it. If I ever have to buy a new one it will be another Shindawa.

[Plate plinker]

I run a echo 450? and man does that thing cut wood. Also have dads old mcculloch which still runs great but probably weighs twice as much. Nice to have two saws in case one gets in the pinch. Dad told me he always kept a spare bar for that reason. His little mcculloch was ruined by his brother in law.

[Clay M]

I always work with two chainsaws. One to cut with and the other to get the first one removed when I get it stuck. I have had good luck with Husqvarna saws. I probably like Stihl saws better but it is hard to get the parts.
I run a chainsaw, fix a tractor, and play NY Jazz .My old jazz guitar teacher was always amused with this fact.

[Lloyd Smale]

When I bought my stihl it was priced about the same as a husky of comparable size so there not more expensive (at least around here) and as to finding parts, there made in America and ive never heard of one instance where someone had problem getting parts or getting a saw repaired. I doubt theyd be the most popular saw for people who used one for a living if parts were hard to find.

[Clay M]

When I bought my stihl it was priced about the same as a husky of comparable size so there not more expensive (at least around here) and as to finding parts, there made in America and ive never heard of one instance where someone had problem getting parts or getting a saw repaired. I doubt theyd be the most popular saw for people who used one for a living if parts were hard to find.

Around here I am always told by repair shops that they can't get parts. I took my Stihl hedge trims in to a Stihl dealer yesterday because I know they will get it fixed right. Stihl dealers can get all the parts, but I am not sure anyone else can.
All the loggers around here use Huskys .

[Lloyd Smale]

not calling you wrong but just haven't had the same experience as you. To be honest the two stihls I have have never needed more then a spark plug so ive never looked for parts. I do have a buddy who is the local dealer so Im sure I could get something if I needed it. What the loggers around here preach is the huskys run at higher rpm and don't last as long. don't know how much truth is in that either, its just what ive been told. Most of the consider the Jonsered that are made now just bottom line huskys. All this said if you keep your eye on tv when theres real loggers or people making there living with there saws its either a stihl or a husky in there hands. Probably a bit higher percentage of stihls.
Around here I am always told by repair shops that they can't get parts. I took my Stihl hedge trims in to a Stihl dealer yesterday because I know they will get it fixed right. Stihl dealers can get all the parts, but I am not sure anyone else can.
All the loggers around here use Huskys .

[Clay M]

In my area everyone sell Husqvarna. I live about fifty miles from the closest Sthil dealer.
I do like Sthil better, but for me I have to go to more trouble getting them serviced.

The biggest logger in my county lives three miles up the road from me. His son lives next door. They run Husqvarna.

[starmac]

Only the cheaper stihl homeowner grade saws are made in the U.S. You can get stihl parts, but you have to go through a local dealer, is what I understand. Some of the older stihl icon saws have had parts discontinued, and no or very few aftermarket parts available.
Since I bought my log truck and sawmill, I have met quite a few of the local loggers, actually most of them, all of which use huskies. Primarily the 372 xp series.

[snowwolfe]

Been following this thread with great interest as our property in TN is 90% oak and they are pretty big. Most of trees are bigger than 20 inches so I been leaning on getting a bigger saw with a 24 inch bar and at least a 60 cc motor (already own a smaller Husky with a 16 inch bar). Doubt I will ever have to cut down a live tree as there are plenty dead ones to choose from and we all know dried wood is more difficult to cut. I know we have plenty of Stihl and Husky dealers in the area but might try an Echo if there is a dealer close by who has a good reputation.
My biggest fault is I cant seen to sharpen a chain correctly so just ordered one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N4L2LO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

[docone31]

That will remove your chain in short work.
Take the reccomended file for your chain, and go up a size. Then to sharpen, count strokes. If you go five strokes, and then next one will not clean up at five, move to the next chisel.
This is the technique I have used for many years, and I have never used a file on a guage on a chain. Never had to.
What is most important in sharpening chains is to keep the chisel even so they run straight.
On the job we would bring a squrench, chain file, and 20weight oil. Single grade motor oil does the trick.
Seasoned on the roots Oak is hard on chains. Lots of chain oil, and patience.
Good luck.
Count your strokes.
If you need five strokes, go five. No less, no more. They will clean up eventually. One short chisel will pull the chain.
Count your strokes.

[Handloader109]

My biggest chainsaw woe? Having my dad's Antique Homelite chainsaw stolen from my shop in MS last year.......
Was about a 1975 model that I used occasionally. Always fired up, never a problem. Now that I have a house that burns wood, I need to now buy a new saw.... A real woe.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Been following this thread with great interest as our property in TN is 90% oak and they are pretty big. Most of trees are bigger than 20 inches so I been leaning on getting a bigger saw with a 24 inch bar and at least a 60 cc motor (already own a smaller Husky with a 16 inch bar). Doubt I will ever have to cut down a live tree as there are plenty dead ones to choose from and we all know dried wood is more difficult to cut. I know we have plenty of Stihl and Husky dealers in the area but might try an Echo if there is a dealer close by who has a good reputation.
My biggest fault is I cant seen to sharpen a chain correctly so just ordered one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N4L2LO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I sharpen all my chains by hand, just like docone31 describes. Follow his technique and patience...with some practice, you'll be an expert.

Photo's show my MS360 Pro (62cc engine) with 20" bar. I don't know what you have for log handling equipment? but all I know, I can cut larger logs than I can load by hand, onto my trailer. and yes, standing Dead/dry Oak. like the white Oak in this photo is slow cutting. when I cut somthing like that, I will touch up(sharpen) the chain "everytime" I have to fill the fuel tank and bar oil reservoir. With Big dry Oak logs like these, I usually get about 7 cuts per tankfull...except the crotch cuts...they take more time and gas.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/bigstumpwithStihlcloseupreduced400x300.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/bigstumpwithStihlcloseupreduced400x300.jpg.html)

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/bigstumpwithStihlIIreduced400x300.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/bigstumpwithStihlIIreduced400x300.jpg.html)

[ol skool]

Sharpening. I can get a chain to throw ribbons or potato chips all day - sharp - ! But I'll be kicked and beat up if I can make it buck square. Jig or no, just cannot do it. Been at it off and on since I was 12...

Here cutters use Stihl or Husky. Old timers like Stihl, younger cutters use Husky. Before I moved into my second career, I noticed some of the younger Husky fellows move to Stihl as they started crowding 40. I have one of each, both fine machines. Both fire up on 2 choke + a couple pulls.

You can here the difference in the woods between the saws. Stihl sounds like a tractor, Husky like a sports car. Torque vs chain speed. Different ways to get to the same place. In the end both put the same amount of wood on the ground in a days work.

[starmac]

Huskies are generally thinner and have quite a bit better av system than stihl, which is especially important with folks with carpal tunnel or other vibration sensative issues. Stihl feels more like holding a brick because it is wider due to the outboard clutch. Many like the outboard cluth enough to pass on huskies, especially those prone to getting their saw stuck.

[Cmm_3940]

My first 'real' saw was a Husky 372XP. It did an absolutely awesome job of cutting in the three years it lasted before the lower needle bearing in the connecting rod disintegrated and destroyed the engine. I replaced it with a Stihl MS441. It is about the same as the Husky was in terms of power and cutting speed, and has given me zero problems. The Stihl is a little pickier about the startup procedure: choke-depressurize-pull-pull-pop-depressurize-unchoke/FastIdle-pull-pull-whirrrrrgrowllll :)

Starmac -

I'm curious, what is this outboard clutch you mention? My Stihl has the same clutch setup my Husky did, to the point of even using the same drive sprocket.

-Chris

[sthwestvictoria]

My woe is that we moved to the city and I don't get to use my husquvarna! It gave service for five years however.

Snowolfe - if you have a husky I suggest their sharpening kit, just a jig and two files but works for me.

[jonp]

Only the cheaper stihl homeowner grade saws are made in the U.S. You can get stihl parts, but you have to go through a local dealer, is what I understand. Some of the older stihl icon saws have had parts discontinued, and no or very few aftermarket parts available.
Since I bought my log truck and sawmill, I have met quite a few of the local loggers, actually most of them, all of which use huskies. Primarily the 372 xp series.

Stihl is made in america but use foreign parts like chinese carbs. I used to deliver to one of their warehouses in Va Beach around the corner from the plant and there were crates of Chinese Carbs there. That doesn't mean there is anything wrong with the saws but charging a premium for a Stihl as "made in usa" is a gimmick imho.

[jonp]

I sharpen all my chains by hand, just like docone31 describes. Follow his technique and patience...with some practice, you'll be an expert.

Photo's show my MS360 Pro (62cc engine) with 20" bar. I don't know what you have for log handling equipment? but all I know, I can cut larger logs than I can load by hand, onto my trailer. and yes, standing Dead/dry Oak. like the white Oak in this photo is slow cutting. when I cut somthing like that, I will touch up(sharpen) the chain "everytime" I have to fill the fuel tank and bar oil reservoir. With Big dry Oak logs like these, I usually get about 7 cuts per tankfull...except the crotch cuts...they take more time and gas.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/bigstumpwithStihlcloseupreduced400x300.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/bigstumpwithStihlcloseupreduced400x300.jpg.html)

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/bigstumpwithStihlIIreduced400x300.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/bigstumpwithStihlIIreduced400x300.jpg.html)
You can cut a tree about twice the length of your bar. Sharpening is the key. Buy a stump fork. Makes life easier and the tip about being anal in sharpening each tooth the same number of strokes is very good advice and don't neglect the rakes.

As for Husky's running at a higher rpm Husky's line as most other lines have saws specifically for different jobs. The engine displacement is the same but they are designed to run at different rpm's.

[Lloyd Smale]

I know one thing for sure back when I cut for job (in school) I used a homelite and a sachs dolamar saw. I would have given my eye teeth for one of the new sthils or huskys. I can remember going in my uncles (actually my grandpas brother) who was a logger all his lifes barn and seeing two man 4 stroke saws that looked like death machines!! He said when he went from saws and axes to those big saws his output doubled. I wish I had one today. I don't know what ever happened to them. My cousin doesn't even know what his dad did with them. He had quite a collection of old outboard motors too. His hobby was boat racing. He built his own canvas skinned race boats.

[Clay M]

My dad use to run old Poulans We spent more time working on them than running them. I finally told him lets tape a twenty dollar bill to one and throw it in the Skip so when someone finds it they will have something.
He finally bought a Stihl.
I do still have my dads old Homelite bow saw.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Sharpening. I can get a chain to throw ribbons or potato chips all day - sharp - ! But I'll be kicked and beat up if I can make it buck square. Jig or no, just cannot do it. Been at it off and on since I was 12...
...snip
This is kind of obvious, but I'll mention it anyway.
When sharpening by hand, half the teeth get sharpened with your right hand, and the other half get sharpened with your left hand.

When you are sharpening with your weak hand (Left, if you are right handed), you need to concentrate extra hard making full strokes with the file at the same pressure you did with the Right, as well as concentrating extra hard on keeping your file square.

For me anyway, filing teeth with my strong hand (Right) almost comes second nature, but I need to concentrate extra hard when using my left hand. Also, if I am fatigued from a day of cutting wood, I know my weak hand is extra weak...then I'll wait to sharpen the chain til another day.

Lastly, once a chain has been severely dulled on one side or mis-sharpened on one side more than the other, So it cuts a curve and binds, it is extremely difficult to bring them back without a machine. I have done it once successfully and it took a lot of time...lots more time than is worth... the local small engine shop, does a special once a year, called the wood cutters ball, the chain resharpening fee that day is $6, but he gets so many chains, it usually takes a month to get mine back.
Good Luck,
Jon

[starmac]

I'm curious, what is this outboard clutch you mention? My Stihl has the same clutch setup my Husky did, to the point of even using the same drive sprocket.

-Chris

Most stihls have the sprocket/rim onthe outside of the clutch, it makes it easier to change the chain and sprocket. it also makes it possible to remove the power head from the bar and chain when the bar is stuck in wood, so that you can either put on a new bar and cut your old one out or push the tree over without damageing your saw.
Huskies (there pro saws anyway, have the rim behind the clutch, so removing them while stuck in the cut is usually not an option.
They have their pros and cons, but the total package on a husky is a little thinner because of it.

Jonp
Some stihls are made in America, as far as I know NONE of the pro saws are made or assembled in America, unless it has changed recently, only the homeowner saws.

[white eagle]

I have property filled with oaks such as JonB
always run with a 20"bar on my saws
there have been times when cutting BIG oaks that
a 20" saw didn't do the job,like someone pointed out that is 40"+
had one tree that made a punk out of a 20" saw tree didn't fall
don't recall what I did but it was scary looking at a tree that hadn't fallen with a 40"cut in it

[dkf]

I don't really have much issues with saws but I don't use them every day either. They get fed 87 octane pure gas, Amsoil Sabre and a splash of fuel stabilizer. Every now and then the carb gets rebuilt but that is about it. I would like to pick up a larger saw (around 65cc+) with at least a 26" bar sometimes, probably will be a Dolmar.

I have seen chains that the local rental place sharpens in house. Boy do they burn them. I do it old school with the round file myself.

[starmac]

I personally like longer bars, or all the bar the particular saw will pull up to 24 or even 28 inches, mainly because I don't like bending over. lol
I have an old 266 se husky built in the 80's that still purrs and will pull 24 easily, and has had 28's on it for a lot of it's life.
That said, I am in the market for a new 70 cc saw. I will probably go with jonsered this time a 2171, same saw as the 372 husky, but for some reason last year, husky decided that all of us folks in Alaska and Hawaii needs to pay a 12 % premium to have one of the huskies, The jonsereds are the same saw, owned and built by the same people, but don't require the 12% premium to be shipped to a dealer, go figure.

[dkf]

I don't like bending over either and usually put the biggest bar on that is recommended. The extra reach you get with the longer bar helps too. But I also have a limbing saw (Tanaka) at my disposal so I can use that little guy if I need a smaller saw/bar.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I had a large poulan with a 22" bar for about a year (I hated it, then sold it on the swap-shop). I found myself finding the dirt too often with it, that's the main reason I went with the 20" bar when I bought the Stihl to replace that Poulan, that was some ten years ago. You wouldn't think 2" would be much difference...but for me, it was all the difference in the world.

[starmac]

I have a couple of 346 huskies for small jobs and love them, but I even run 20 in bars for them. They get used more than the 266 by far, mainly because they are just handy, and they stay in the pickup for the most part.
I have been watching, or rather wanting a small, very small saw to carry on the four wheeler, canoe and just to keep on the log truck in the winter.
Years ago I had a stihl with iirc a 9 in bar, do they even make a bar that short anymore? I don't see them, even on the cheap home owner grade saws, which would be fine for my use for it.

[white eagle]

starmac
that reminds me of when I only had 1 saw and would cut firewood with my wife
she would always be asking me to cut something up for her,slash to burn
well the next trip through town I stopped at the saw shop to get a chain and came out with a small
limbing saw for her

[starmac]

If any of you guys are considering a new saw, from a saw shop, they have an extra bonus warranty of a year, or maybe even 2 extra years if you buy 3 quarts of the premix canned gas at the time of saw purchase. I know husky offers this (not to commercial users) and I think stihl and maybe some others offer a version of it.
The canned gas is expensive, BUT if a guy only occaisionally uses a saw you might want to look into it, they claim even if you use your own mix, but tend to put your saw up for a few months or a year at a time run the canned stuff for the last tank and you don't need to drain the carb.
I haven't used it, but that is how the mechanic at the saw shop I deal with explained it to me.

[Mal Paso]

The canned gas is expensive, BUT if a guy only occaisionally uses a saw you might want to look into it, they claim even if you use your own mix, but tend to put your saw up for a few months or a year at a time run the canned stuff for the last tank and you don't need to drain the carb.


Drain the Carb? My Stihl is 21 years old and I've never drained anything. Always in the truck and ready to cut.

50 years ago this Summer was my first time with a chainsaw, my uncle's Sears/McCullough. It wasn't very good and neither was the chain back then. The steel used for chain is so much better now. I stopped ruining files and switched to a grinder 15 years ago. I buy 6 to 10 chains at a time when Bailey's has a Sale and sharpen once a year. Bailey's Woodland Pro Chain is excellent.

I added a 14" Echo one hand saw 5 years ago. It's more tiring to run 2 handed though. A little 16" 2 handed Echo would be nice too.

It's just like the casting thing though. It starts with a couple saws then you get a hydraulic splitter and a tractor to move the wood and a trailer to move the tractor...........

****! Dry Lightning. Time to shut down the computer and watch for fires.

[Hannibal]

I've found Carlton chains to hold an edge a long time as well, but you really can't use a file on them, and definitely not a cheap file. I'm not sure what process is used on the teeth, but they're harder than woodpecker lips. They offer semi and full chisel teeth too, if you know what you need.

[crowbuster]

buddy and I split the cost of a good grinder 12yr or so ago. Best money we spent, still goin strong. When it's time to cut, it's time to cut. Put on another chain and keep cutting. Never looked back, nor will I hand file again. Its the way that works for me.

[starmac]

If I am not mistaken, baileys woodland pro and carltons are one and the same, but folks do hand file them as well as carlton all the time. Unless you screw up and hit something, or let them go too long between filing (what most casual users do) it just takes a minute or two.

[Hannibal]

Ok. Here it is. Run a Stihl .044 or MS 440 or larger saw. Throw away the chain and put a Carlton A1LM-72E. That's a full chisel for a 20" bar. A .044 or .441 will strip the chain or break it if you are inept enough to pinch it. If you can not completely bury 3 people who are dragging brush and loading wood cut to 24" lengths then you need to find someone to show you how to run a chainsaw. This is cutting Osage Orange (Hedge) or Oak. Softwoods need not apply. Been there. Done that. Tee-shirts are in the rag bin.

An 044 is nearly a 71 CC saw. 13,500 RPM. 13 Lbs. Nearly 5.5 HP. If this saw is not enough for you, then you are WELL beyond the 'firewood' cutting threshold and are well into the 'Professional Logger' realm.

A saw this size scares most casual woodcutters. It will put a 40" tree on the ground in under 1 minute. Again, been there, done that, Tee-shirts are worn-out and long gone. Buy a chain sharpener that costs more than a Ben Franklin and 2 chains that are made by Stihl or Carlton and the firewood will absolutely clog your stove.

Don't believe me? Come to NWMO. It's the Show-Me state. Bring 2 friends. Firewood is mine. Education is free. Beer is on your dime.

[Hannibal]

If I am not mistaken, baileys woodland pro and carltons are one and the same, but folks do hand file them as well as carlton all the time. Unless you screw up and hit something, or let them go too long between filing (what most casual users do) it just takes a minute or two.

I would have to disagree. I have put the stock number of the Carlton chain I use in the post I just made. If you can hand file this chain without ruining the file, then I would certainly like to watch you at work. I'm not saying it can't be done, just saying I haven't been successful. A Stihl file is minimum, German manufacture more likely. Poulan or some other discount store brand will NOT work.

[jonp]

Ok. Here it is. Run a Stihl .044 or MS 440 or larger saw. Throw away the chain and put a Carlton A1LM-72E. That's a full chisel for a 20" bar. A .044 or .441 will strip the chain or break it if you are inept enough to pinch it. If you can not completely bury 3 people who are dragging brush and loading wood cut to 24" lengths then you need to find someone to show you how to run a chainsaw. This is cutting Osage Orange (Hedge) or Oak. Softwoods need not apply. Been there. Done that. Tee-shirts are in the rag bin.

An 044 is nearly a 71 CC saw. 13,500 RPM. 13 Lbs. Nearly 5.5 HP. If this saw is not enough for you, then you are WELL beyond the 'firewood' cutting threshold and are well into the 'Professional Logger' realm.

A saw this size scares most casual woodcutters. It will put a 40" tree on the ground in under 1 minute. Again, been there, done that, Tee-shirts are worn-out and long gone. Buy a chain sharpener that costs more than a Ben Franklin and 2 chains that are made by Stihl or Carlton and the firewood will absolutely clog your stove.

Don't believe me? Come to NWMO. It's the Show-Me state. Bring 2 friends. Firewood is mine. Education is free. Beer is on your dime.

I cut 2 of my fingers off with an old Jonsered 90cc saw that had no chain brake. I'm not sure what the average person would try and cut anything with a 3ft+ bar. If you need a saw that big and you are not a professional it's time to call one.

I'm of the opinion that a 50-55cc saw is all the average person needs and probably more than 90% can use safely.

[Hannibal]

I'm still shy of 50. I never said I thought my approach was the safest. BUT. If you want wood in the wagon RIGHT NOW this formula will do it. And how.

My time is limited. I cut nearly 12 cords of wood per season. I don't have time to be fooling around. Lead. Follow. Or get out of the way. It HAS to be like this. I simply don't have the time.

[jonp]

No critism of you, Hannibal. If you are comfortable doing what you are doing then more power to you!

[southpaw]

I'm still shy of 50. I never said I thought my approach was the safest. BUT. If you want wood in the wagon RIGHT NOW this formula will do it. And how.

My time is limited. I cut nearly 12 cords of wood per season. I don't have time to be fooling around. Lead. Follow. Or get out of the way. It HAS to be like this. I simply don't have the time.

Where do you get the Carlton A1LM-72E chain? I bought a 24" and 20" oregon skip tooth chains the other day it was ~$28 for both of them.

I have to agree. When I go out I either have so much time to cut or I have a certain amount to cut. Either way I want to get as much done in the time I have or I want to spend as little time doing it. Between my brother and I we have a Stihl 064 (~84cc if I remember correctly) and a Husky 576 xp (~72cc). These are our main cutting saws. The 064 has a 24" bar and the 576 a 20" bar. We have a few smaller saws in the 50-60 cc range for small stuff.

Through some mistake of my own I am sure but I ended up being the feller. I got the 576 and the 064. I do the dropping and cutting of the bigger stuff. The 064 is almost always used for dropping the trees.

The other day I dropped maple that was 39" at the smallest part of the stump. There wasn't a limb on it for 30'. At that point it was 32". I might have crossed the casual cutter line there tho (not even close to the first time). But we take what we can get. That log is going to the mill with the other logs we have. It is nice to have a friend with a saw mill.

The only time that I use one of the smaller saws is when I am cutting about 10" or less. The bigger saws just cut way faster.

If you take the time to learn and are careful the bigger saws are as safe as the smaller ones. Just mind your nose (the bar).

Jerry Jr.

[southpaw]

Oops, forgot my woe. Mine would be keeping the teeth the same length. I take the same number of strokes but I am a little heavy handed on one side I guess.

Jerry Jr.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I would have to disagree. I have put the stock number of the Carlton chain I use in the post I just made. If you can hand file this chain without ruining the file, then I would certainly like to watch you at work. I'm not saying it can't be done, just saying I haven't been successful. A Stihl file is minimum, German manufacture more likely. Poulan or some other discount store brand will NOT work.
I also read somewhere that the "Woodland Pro" that Bailey's sell, are Made in the USA with Carlton bulk chain. I assumed that info would be on Bailey's website, but I can't find it now???
I use the Woodland Pro chain's on my Stihl (MS360Pro), I have hand sharpened them with Stihl brand files as well as "Pferd" files (made in Germany). Yeah, it's not the easiest chain to sharpen...but not impossible.

Also, who's to say, all Carlton chain is the same. I'd bet they have different grades/hardness ???
BUT, I got no complaints, the Woodland Pro chains are every bit as good as Stihl brand chain, I use to use, IMHO.

[snowwolfe]

As I said before, I admire you guys who are good at sharpening the chains but after decades of trying and failing I bought the electric grinding model. I'll find out how it works in a month or two

[Cmm_3940]

I've been using 'laser chain' that I get from Cutter's Choice. I'ts not bad For the price, but I've been sharpening and tightening a lot. From the comments here, I think I'll be buying the Carlton / Bailey's chain next time. 70cc Stihl MS441 w/ 20" bar.

[starmac]

Hannibal, the chain you use wouldn't happen to be the carbide tipped chain is it??

Most of the wood we cut here is in the winter, so clean for the most park. It is pretty forgiving as far as chainsaws go.
I cut firewood for a lliving for a while in new mexico, and that heavy bark alligator juniper whas a whole different matter, had to touch up the chain every tank.

[MtGun44]

No woes. I have a Stihl Farm Boss 029 that has been a real jewel.
Keep the blade sharp and clean it periodically and it is great. Have to
tune the jets a bit when I take it to high altitude in CO to cut wood there
and bring it back.

[dagger dog]

Here's a good one. Needed a small saw for spring clean up, went to Sears and bought a saw, got it home and filled with fuel and bar oil and started yanking, yanked on it for 20 minutes and finally gave up, didn't want to drive back into town so decided to see what was up, removed the plastic housing and found the fuel inlet hose to the carb' was pinched shut blocking the fuel.

So the saw was never run, the fuel line had to be run through the plastic housing which made it impossible to run the saw then install the plastic housing crimping the line that way.

Wised up and found out I could cut small stuff with a big saw and bought a Huskvarna 20" 455 Rancher when I opened the box there were wood chips on the chain housing and no fuel or oil in the saw so I know that saw was test run. Only one thing I don't like about that saw is it can do more work than I can !

I buy my chains from a local hardware that sells in bulk and makes the chains for me, I also carry a file in my back pocket and touch up the chain while I'm taking a breather.

[Hannibal]

No, the chain isn't carbide, but I bought 6 of them when I bought the saw. Still have 4 left.

[Elkins45]

I can sharpen a knife so well that it will make you afraid to look at it, but I can't sharpen a saw chain to save my life. It is SO frustrating. My dad was a master and I used to just take him my saw once a year but he is no longer with us so eventually I will have to find a guy to pay to do it. That hurts my pride a bit.

Both of my saws are McCulloch, if that tells you something. The carb needs rebuilt on the small one and the oiler doesn't work on the big one. I've had to replace the fuel lines twice on both because the plastic tubing cracks. I'm finally entertaining the idea of just buying a new one. Dad bought a top handle Echo when his Eager Beaver got stolen and it was a great saw. I may get one of those myself.

[Lloyd Smale]

I have to admit the same. I have 4 saws and keep at least 6 chains for each and allways carry a spare or two in the woods. when I get down to 2 I bring all the dull chains back to my buddys stihl shop and he sharpens them for me for free. I think his normal charge is 2 bucks a chain so its hardly worth the bother even if you can sharpen them yourself. I have to admit that I also don't sharpen my hunting knives very often. I know the guys at bark river knife company and they just do it better and for free.
I can sharpen a knife so well that it will make you afraid to look at it, but I can't sharpen a saw chain to save my life. It is SO frustrating. My dad was a master and I used to just take him my saw once a year but he is no longer with us so eventually I will have to find a guy to pay to do it. That hurts my pride a bit.

Both of my saws are McCulloch, if that tells you something. The carb needs rebuilt on the small one and the oiler doesn't work on the big one. I've had to replace the fuel lines twice on both because the plastic tubing cracks. I'm finally entertaining the idea of just buying a new one. Dad bought a top handle Echo when his Eager Beaver got stolen and it was a great saw. I may get one of those myself.

[JonnyReb]

I've only had homeowner type saws and don't even bother with sharpening chains, i just buy a new one when i need to. There, i've set my bar :oops:

In spite of my lack of experience with the finer saws and the finer points of owning them, i've had quite a few. I've lived in the woods for 20+ years and heated exclusively with wood for the first 7. Still use wood for about 1\2 my heat source and of course living in the woods makes using a chainsaw a common occurance.

Only saw i had trouble with was a small Jonsered i bought at lowes in the early 90's. It needed constant carb fiddling to make it run and when it quit at about 2 years old i chucked it (probably just needed carb work) and bought asmall Husky..a model 136 i think. Was a good saw and ran quite a few years but i eventually backed over it with a van and did it in. Went from that to a heavy old XL12 that i nicknamed "Boomer". Something about the sound of that saw just about took trees out by itself. It was probably 20 years old when i was running it but if you could get it started you weren't going go have any trouble..it would run all day without a hitch. Bought another Homelight about 10 years ago and have been running it ever since. The XL12 is still ready to go but i haven't started it for many years. he newer smaller 16" Homelight is all i need, is light, not too powerful but safely efficient, is fairly light and has given me no mechanical trouble. I use either treated non ethanol or lately have been using the canned "tru fuel" from lowes. I still always put them up dry and haven't had any carb issues since that old jonsered.

Did buy my first electric saw just last week. Its actually a polesaw but the 9amp Craftsman 10" saw comes off the pole for typical saw use. Its small but fits a needed niche in trimming trees and front porch firewood adjustments. Under 100.00 bucks and i had a giftcard to burn so.. why not. [smilie=w:

[Mal Paso]

Bailey's Chain Sale:http://enews.baileys-online.com/q/Kkf7mro6mlfiC1Egq3ac8kvX7Ua2ASsVdEhVNZErtHWU2HoGWY Y0HR3GF

It troubles my Scottish ancestry but you can buy good saw chain and throw it away when it gets dull for less money than it takes to sharpen it.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Bailey's Chain Sale:http://enews.baileys-online.com/q/Kkf7mro6mlfiC1Egq3ac8kvX7Ua2ASsVdEhVNZErtHWU2HoGWY Y0HR3GF

It troubles my Scottish ancestry but you can buy good saw chain and throw it away when it gets dull for less money than it takes to sharpen it.
I seen that email this morning, I ignored it, as I just bought 10 chains from them last spring and haven't used one of those yet...still using a few older chains.
Dang, I go look up my chain, and it's $20 cheaper (per 10) than what I paid last spring, so I ordered another 10 ($11.09 per 20" chain, Wow). My buddy has the same saw as me...it's kinda why I bought the MS360Pro, I got to use his and loved it. I may have to share some chains with him.

[nagantguy]

LOUD YELL.......got home from our week long pioneer camping trip and in 2 hours of cutting I have two saws down the Husqvarna has a pull cord that won't retract and the smallest sthil won't start though it ran great this morning........

[Hannibal]

About 99 times out of 100 a new spark plug will remedy a hard to start/won't start chainsaw issue for me. Fresh fuel makes a big difference, too.

[FergusonTO35]

I'm a small engine and lawn equipment enthusiast, always have been and always will be. My chainsaw fleet consists of:

Echo 3000, 400, 450
Poulan 2050, 2155
McCulloch 160S (mini-mac type)

I love my Echos and would take them over any non-proline Stihl or Husky out there. I bought them used on Fleabay and have a total of maybe $320.00 in all three. I completely rebuilt the little 3000 climber saw, the 450 got a brand new clutch cover and Oregon bar and chain. The 400 only needed a new Oregon chain and carb tune. Actually I would take these three over any saws of the same size, bar none. Echo has parts diagrams on their website and OEM parts are cheap and can be purchased anywhere. Stihl wants to chain you to the dealer, they won't even give you a parts diagram. Husky is better about this but I'm so happy with Echo I have no reason to switch.

My little Walmart Poulans are actually really good saws for how little they cost. I know the 2155 will spank a homeowner grade Stihl of the same size. I was helping clear storm damage at a property owned by our church and another guy had a new little Stihl of around 34cc. The Poulan was leaving him in the dust, er, wood chips. He looked more than a little flustered with his Stihl, which also wouldn't keep the chain tight. The biggest weakness my Poulans have is a non-adjustable oiler that just won't keep up in thick wood. I have my Echos for that so no big deal. All I've ever done to them is new chains (factory chains on Poulans are just AWFUL) and rebuild the carb last year on the 2050 which is now 19 years old.

The little Mac 160 is at least 25 years old and bought in a pawn shop. I rebuilt the carb (requires taking the whole thing apart) and gave it a new 14" bar and chain as it came with a ridiculous 18 incher. Everything you've heard about these little Macs is true. Vibrates like crazy, loud, no power, can be hard to start. It is tiny and lightweight however, perfect for clearing shooting lanes and removing limbs while setting up a tree stand. That's about all I use it for.

I use Star-Tron ethanol treatment and fuel stabilizer in ALL my gas engines other than my car and truck, which never have a chance for the fuel to go stale. For my two strokes I add about twice as much Star-Tron as the directions call for, I also mix my oil into the gas on the rich side. Everything here gets 36:1 fuel and oil mix. I believe a little extra oil helps protect the rings and bearings, and I don't notice any additional smoke or spark plug fouling. I don't dump any of my fuel or let it run dry at the end of the year, I think leaving treated fuel in year round is better for it. The only fuel related problems I ever have are the need to put a kit in a carb or replace rotten fuel lines after 10+ years of use.

If anybody needs chainsaw or other small engine advice just holler!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

snipped...

I know the 2155 will spank a homeowner grade Stihl of the same size. I was helping clear storm damage at a property owned by our church and another guy had a new little Stihl of around 34cc. The Poulan was leaving him in the dust, er, wood chips. He looked more than a little flustered with his Stihl, which also wouldn't keep the chain tight.

I suspect this comparison is more about the operator, than the saw.

I suspect that either the chain on that 34cc Stihl was dull (one good dip in the dirt will dull it) or his store bought safety chain didn't cut as fast as your chain ...was your chain a chisel tooth chain?

Also, I have looked at those new Stihl "home owner" saws with the toolfree chain tighener ...I figured they are likely to fail. I want two bolts/nuts holding my bar on the saw !

[Mal Paso]

You only have to worry about parts availability if you have a saw that breaks.:bigsmyl2:

21 years on a 44 Stihl and haven't replaced a part except plugs. (Watch this bite me on the bottom)

Have Echo and Shindaiwa too

Went to Demo Days last year and the Husky Booth was showing the new saws. Computer controlled fuel/ignition. You need a 5 minute log/cut to tune. Plugs into a Diagnostic Display in the Service Shop. Again I'll stick to a saw that never needs a shop.

[jonp]

"suspect that either the chain on that 34cc Stihl was dull (one good dip in the dirt will dull it) or his store bought safety chain"

I've got $5 on this explanation

[FergusonTO35]

My 2050 and 2155 have the better Oregon low kickback chain on them. Maybe the chain on the guy's Stihl was dull, maybe he just didn't know how to use it. I really do not see how the homeowner grade Stihl and Husky saws under 50cc are any better than Poulan. They all have non-adjustable oilers, way too much plastic where metal should be, chintzy and potentially unsafe no-tools chain tensioners. Echo is the far superior choice here.

To give credit where credit is due though, Stihl makes the nicest electric weedeater I've ever seen. I bought my sister one for her birthday. $129.95 and made in Austria-maybe by Glock?

[starmac]

My husky dealer will tell you straight up, that the small 40 cc homeowner saws are no better than other comparable saws, and are themselves, throw away saws, even though he stocks them.

[Mal Paso]

Stihl has named their saws by Cubic Inches not CCs. An 034 would be somewhere near 56cc.

Chain saws take just as much skill to operate properly as guns do to shoot well.

[Lloyd Smale]

yup comparing a poulan to a stihl is like comparing a Yugo to a porche

[Lloyd Smale]

nephew came to camp a couple years back with a bright green brand new poulan he bought at menards for a 120 bucks on sale. He fired it up cut a couple longs and the chain got a bit loose. He took out his tools and tried to tighten the chain an it went so far and wouldn't tighten anymore. I took it apart and found the chain adjuster was made out of plastic!! It had stripped the first time he used it. He brought that fine piece of engineering back the next day and got his money back and went and bought a husky. Yup it cost 3 times what the poulan cost but it will last him his lifetime.
My 2050 and 2155 have the better Oregon low kickback chain on them. Maybe the chain on the guy's Stihl was dull, maybe he just didn't know how to use it. I really do not see how the homeowner grade Stihl and Husky saws under 50cc are any better than Poulan. They all have non-adjustable oilers, way too much plastic where metal should be, chintzy and potentially unsafe no-tools chain tensioners. Echo is the far superior choice here.

To give credit where credit is due though, Stihl makes the nicest electric weedeater I've ever seen. I bought my sister one for her birthday. $129.95 and made in Austria-maybe by Glock?

[onefunzr2]

Doesn't matter what brand; Husky, Stihl or Homelite. I have to replace the solid state ignition on all of them with regularity.

[doc1876]

ok, first I wish to apologize to the op, natanguy, I thought this thread was about bloody situations about these things, and quite frankly, I did not want to read that.

That being said, for those of you that have a hard time sharpening a saw, if you have a good vice, clamp the center of the bar into it, and this will hold it still for you to run your files through the cutting blades at a more even angle.
an old timer showed me this, and at first I thought he was going to ruin the bar, but I saw that if done correctly, this will actually make a lot of sense.

[BrentD]

I heat with wood so I use saws a lot. I have a huskie that is plumb done. Wore it out and a bit quicker than it should have been. Been using a Stihl for 5-6 years now and it seems like a great saw and gets a lot of hard work on oversize hardwood trees. I can't complain about it at all.

One thing I have noticed is that Huskie and, recently, Stihl seem to be selling at least two grades of saws. Huskie has a cheap line at all the big-box stores like Lowes, etc. Now Stihl seems to be doing the same thing. Hard to know what's what, but the price tag is a good clue. The good saws are not cheap. Not cheap at all. The cheap saws, however, get really expensive if they are in the shop all the time.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

My 2050 and 2155 have the better Oregon low kickback chain on them. Maybe the chain on the guy's Stihl was dull, maybe he just didn't know how to use it. I really do not see how the homeowner grade Stihl and Husky saws under 50cc are any better than Poulan. They all have non-adjustable oilers, way too much plastic where metal should be, chintzy and potentially unsafe no-tools chain tensioners. Echo is the far superior choice here.

To give credit where credit is due though, Stihl makes the nicest electric weedeater I've ever seen. I bought my sister one for her birthday. $129.95 and made in Austria-maybe by Glock?
regarding highlighted: I can't say I have any experience with the New Stihl "homeowners" chain saws and it's a sorry tale, if you are correct about today's saws. Besides my MS360Pro, I have two older Stihl 024 saws (which are 41cc), one made in the Mid 1980s (given to me, from my mentor), the other I bought for parts from a dealer, the day after a saw trade-day sale, I paid $50 and it came with a used plastic case that was worth half of that. Luckily for me, that one was complete and only needed a carb cleaning and a new spark plug (I stole it!). I've compared the older Stihl 024 to a similar sized poulan (2005 vintage...that saw, I helped a friend with, who was new to chain saws).
Boy, NO comparison at all, I won't tell you my low opinion of Poulan for fear of insulting you...But I will say, if the current production of Stihl "home owner" saws are that chincy, it's a darned shame.

[white eagle]

I have had numerous make's of saw's
started out thinking well a saw is a saw let me tell you it just aint so
graduated up from a *** to a stihl (a homeowner special)I bought in Oregon
never really liked the way it cut always bogging down near the end of the cut
switched chains to a non kick back chain same thing,down the road
bought a Huskvarna 460 20"bar ran it hard for 7-8 years and it came unglued
making sounds you don't ever want to hear a saw make
this spring bought a Huskvarna 562 xp and man can that sucker cut
came with a 20"bar but can handle up to 28" I believe
it has the new computer technology but hay so do most vehicles
nothing against Stihl but once bitten as they say

[OnHoPr]

Well, this ole woodchuck has chucked a few pieces of wood in his lifetime. Here's my saw hand as it sits normal and I can't straighten or extend my hand flat. This was because of old saws like the Mc and xx12s. That's my first woe.
146655

This thread brought back a few memories, so I will chime in on/with a few comments. Back in the '80s every 041 Farm Boss that was in a garage or pole barn was in a box because they vibrated apart. About the mid '90s they started being noted as decent again when they fixed the vibration system. I used huskys and johnny reds, but only a couple since they are good saws. They have very good vibration systems. From what I here stihl caught up to them. The husky and johnny red are made by electrolucks and are basically the same saw almost and a lot of parts are interchangeable, but the johnny red is cheaper from the shop. My 2nd woe was my first professional style saw, a partner P65 I got used from the local hardware. Those had a habit of catching on fire and mine was no ecksception, $h|t, just when I was starting out, it cut though. I think I would have beat a badger digging a hole with my bare hands to throw the saw in since it was July or August in the DRY woods if we (a badger and I) were at a lumbermans eckspo. My latest woe is the husky I got about 5 years ago. The overflow tube comes off occasionally and you can't adjust the needle valves like the older ones to get them screaming, they put stops on the screw valves, so you can't turn them in but only so far. Plus, I think some of this ergonomic stuff is getting out of control, how they angled the crossbar is a little to much. I had to go take a look at it and it is a 353. I usually ran saws in the 60 to 70 cc class, but decided on a little less power since I am getting old, crippled, and slow. Still a good saw though. Echos were/are a good dependable saw from Japan, they just didn't,at least back then,have the same speed as the husky & johnny red, plus the way they handled was very uncomfortable with me.

@whiteeagle post #96 [smilie=f::not listening::2_high5::awesome::-D [smilie=1:

@southpaw post #108 Ah, that's normal sometimes and they still cut if they are sharp, but you tend to straighten them when on the progressive sharpenings.

@starmac post #101 + another post about screwing up and hitting something can be no fault of the sawyer sometimes as here in MI there are quite a few more hunters in conjested woods as I have hit my fair share of boolits with the saw. I think maybe they were linotype or WQWWs. lol If you are looking into a 70cc style saw for your yard you must have a few decent size timbers coming in. I was up there in Fairbanks about 20 years ago and didn't see anything that was real big unless you have timber coming from older growth from around the coast or something like that. 70 cc is about the biggest you'd want to go for cutting 100" logs and firewood. 70cc and above is for more power with big trees and wanting to turn them on the stump. Don't get me wrong I have hit the dirt more than once.

@jonp post #104 "I'm of the opinion that a 50-55cc saw is all the average person needs and probably more than 90% can use safely." :goodpost:

Tips & warnings: Don't use pennzoil or poulan oil in high performance or high rpm saws, use good oil and good gas.
Keep your chain channel clean so oil can get to you nose sprocket.
If you have a rural local gas station that you get gas at especially in the fall & winter and you start having sluggish or misfires take your gas and put it in a plastic milk jug and in the freezer overnight to freeze the water in the gas. Then pour into your gas can. This can happen if they don't clean their tanks often enough or they just got a fill up. That water or moisture gets on the diaphragm and mess with how your saw runs.
Keep your saw sharp, there will be a lot less work for you and you won't look like a polak (eckscuse me if I offended someone) pushin a saw to and fro because one side is sharper than the other.
Be careful, don't be scared of them, but be cautious. Those saws can bite as bad as a griz and if you don't have a 45-70 handy, ouch.

I had better stop my run-on thread, now.

PS For a lot of you, why are you buying so many chains. A chain should last you over 100 cords.
Go chisel.

[doc1876]

That water or moisture gets on the diaphragm and mess with how your saw runs.
Keep your saw sharp, there will be a lot less work for you and you won't look like a polak (eckscuse me if I offended someone) pushin a saw to and fro because one side is sharper than the other.

Go chisel.

Just yesterday I took it in to have it repaired, and the repairman scared me. I had never heard that noise before. :bigsmyl2:

[jonp]

ok, first I wish to apologize to the op, natanguy, I thought this thread was about bloody situations about these things, and quite frankly, I did not want to read that.

That being said, for those of you that have a hard time sharpening a saw, if you have a good vice, clamp the center of the bar into it, and this will hold it still for you to run your files through the cutting blades at a more even angle.
an old timer showed me this, and at first I thought he was going to ruin the bar, but I saw that if done correctly, this will actually make a lot of sense.
Or you can use a stump holder. I found the full length file guide, the one you put the file in, with angle lines to follow on it the easiest and best to use

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

snip...

PS For a lot of you, why are you buying so many chains. A chain should last you over 100 cords.
Go chisel.
LOL
I guess I need some lessons from a fell'r like you.
I've been cutting firewood (hardwood, almost exclusively) since 1998, there were a couple years I cut and split 10 cords in a twelve month period, BUT, I only burn about 3 cords a season. Yeah, I've sold some, but I quit sellin' a few years ago, as there started being more competition to cut firewood, and it's harder to get free trees to cutup. I live in the farmland part of Minnesota (looks more like Iowa), so there ain't much woodland, most trees I cut up are "in" town or in a farm yard.

ANYWAY,
I don't think I have cut a total of 100 cords in the 17 years I've been cuttin' ...AND I've used up a pile of chains (enough to sell as scrap metal :) ) and I've learned a lot along the way.
>>>If I can avoid the hidden, embedded barbed wire, nails, and keep the tip out of the dirt and gravel(some trees I get to cut up at the local city compost site is basically a gravel parking lot and the trees were dragged there with a payloader) ...and dang, some of the tree's I've cut in a flood plain by a creek/river are "coated" with silt from flood waters(that dulls 'em quick) ...Also while cutting in a junkyard, cutting trees the grew up through tractors and other farm implements (cut too close and sparks start flyin' ) ...NOW if I could avoid all that, maybe, just maybe, I'd get a 6 cords cut with a chain.

[jonp]

My husky dealer will tell you straight up, that the small 40 cc homeowner saws are no better than other comparable saws, and are themselves, throw away saws, even though he stocks them.
My 41cc Husky is going on 20yrs. Although I cut far less than others here I bet I cut 6-8 cords of maple firewood and cleared spruce with it a year. Now I keep it at camp in the shed. Last summer I cleaned it, put stabil in the tank and oil in the cylinder, gave it a couple of yanks then put in the plug and left it. A few weeks ago I was home and needed a few hemlock down so tightened the plug up a 5 or 6 pulls started right up. Im not sure of the new ones but this older saw runs like a champ

[doc1876]

I seen that email this morning, I ignored it, as I just bought 10 chains from them last spring and haven't used one of those yet...still using a few older chains.
Dang, I go look up my chain, and it's $20 cheaper (per 10) than what I paid last spring, so I ordered another 10 ($11.09 per 20" chain, Wow). My buddy has the same saw as me...it's kinda why I bought the MS360Pro, I got to use his and loved it. I may have to share some chains with him.


I just ordered the "10 fer" sale, and am very happy with the customer service. They walked me through, as I haven't bought a chain for several years, and was quite leery of ordering over the phone, but they took care of me, and now all I have to do is check the front door next week.
Thanks for the info

[Mal Paso]

Back in the '80s every 041 Farm Boss that was in a garage or pole barn was in a box because they vibrated apart.

I was cutting Bridge Timbers with a Stihl 041. Carburetor vibrated loose, RPM went over 12,000 with the throttle closed, and it was running so lean the off switch wouldn't work. Couldn't figure anything else so I shoved the bar into a log and stalled it.

Forgot about that one.:bigsmyl2:

[starmac]

My 41cc Husky is going on 20yrs. Although I cut far less than others here I bet I cut 6-8 cords of maple firewood and cleared spruce with it a year. Now I keep it at camp in the shed. Last summer I cleaned it, put stabil in the tank and oil in the cylinder, gave it a couple of yanks then put in the plug and left it. A few weeks ago I was home and needed a few hemlock down so tightened the plug up a 5 or 6 pulls started right up. Im not sure of the new ones but this older saw runs like a champ

The 41, then the 141 on to the 241 were basically small pro saws. The 241 probably has the best old time following of any 40 cc saw, but new husky in the 40 cc class are a different animal.

Someone mentioned the plastic screw stops on their husky 353 All new saws, except computer controlled ones have these along with a stopped up muffler, the limiters can be removed and the mufflers fixed so they can be properly tuned. You can thank the epa for that.

Somebody else mentioned FAirbanks has small timber, that is hard to argue, as that is mostly what you see from the roads, but I haul lots of 30 to 40 inch spruce out of the log woods.
372 huskys are pretty much the standard saw used by loggers, I do know a kid that limbs for one with a 346 or three. lol

[FergusonTO35]

My Echo CS-400 could be called a semi-pro saw. It has all the true pro features except a full metal crankcase and high compression cylinder with release valve. It will really make the chips fly with the Oregon long top chisel chain. If I could only have one saw for the rest of my life this would be it. I do like and admire the pro line Stihl and Husky saws. Unfortunately there is no such thing as a gently used one for sale. You can only buy them new or used up and beat to death.

Operator skill can really make a saw perform. My dad only had one saw from the time I was a wee lad until late in my college career. A 1982 Homelite Super 2, bought to replace a Super XL that was lost in a fire. We heated the house exclusively with wood from 1980 to 1986, and always kept a stack for the fireplace. He cut some huge trees with that little thing too, made it look effortless. The little Super 2 kept cutting until dad accidentally backed over it with the truck in 2008 or so. I have a low mileage 1970's Super 2 on display in my garage as a tribute to dad's saw and a tangible reminder of how great Homelite used to be.

[nagantguy]

Thank you to everyone whom has left a post here, lots of good stories about garbage or great saws, lots of good tips and I feel slightly better knowing I'm not the only one that has chainsaw trouble every third log or after every rain or on days with an R in them!

[Pipefitter]

Update on the Husky 455 Rancher: Due to a couple summer storms and the generosity of a neighbor I had +/- 13 cords of hardwood logs dumped in my driveway just after the 4th of July. Bought a 24" bar and chain because a couple of the logs were gonna need it. I cut every last stick with the 24"bar, touched the chain 3 times with a hand file in a guide, 5 strokes each side. The chain could use another go around with the file, but I won't have to worry about that for at least a couple years. By the way, my lovely wife of 32 years stacked EVERY LAST STICK of 13 cords!!!

[starmac]

Well, I have 2 saws that stay in the back of the pickup rain or shine, they have been getting rained on everyday for two weeks now, if it isn't raining I will head out to the mill tomorrow, and expect them to crank right up, one that doesn't is pretty much worthless to me.

[Clay M]

I went in a big Stihl store yesterday. I definitely had lust for a new saw, although I still have two good Husqvarna' s . I really don't need another saw right now, but I may give one of my Husqvarnas to my son and buy a big professional Stihl.

[osteodoc08]

I went in a big Stihl store yesterday. I definitely had lust for a new saw, although I still have two good Husqvarna' s . I really don't need another saw right now, but I may give one of my Husqvarnas to my son and buy a big professional Stihl.

However you gotta justify it.....:bigsmyl2:

[Clay M]

However you gotta justify it.....:bigsmyl2:

My son wants a big Husqvarna, so maybe I will just buy him that for Christmas..
I really don't need a new saw.

[aap2]

I have gone thru many inexpensive chainsaws then finally bought a Stihl about 5 years ago and it's been a great saw and it has cut tons of firewood. The service guy at the local tractor dealer told me to consider using the new Stihl synthetic 2-cycle oil and if you buy a new Stihl chainsaw and a 6-pack of the new oil that Stihl will double the factory warranty on the saw. This was enough for me to buy the new oil. Another tip that I got was to buy the highest grade of gas to mix with the 2-cycle oil since it probably has the least amount of alcohol which seems to damage the chainsaw fuel systems. Just passing this info along.

[Hannibal]

Missouri and Montana have exemption allowances for SOME premium fuels, and they are plainly labeled ethanol free and are significantly more expensive.

If you reside in another state, you have ethanol in your premium fuel, up to 10%. The exact amount may actually be higher in the premium fuel as ethanol is the cheapest additive to raise octane that is available, but can not be more than 10% unless labeled as such. E-85 for example. As usual, the bottom line is 'Buyer beware."

[OnHoPr]

If you look around for specialty fuels like for race cars and such, you can find fuels that don't have or not suppose to have that stuff in it. I am not referring to gas stations. It would be more expensive though. But, if you only needed to buy 5 gallons for the season, why not.

[44man]

My fairly new Echo would not start so I took it down to find the ignition coil went bad. No spark at all.
I looked in my book and those parts have a lifetime warranty. I called Echo and was told 10 years but that is commercial. She said I would get a free part but would pay a labor charge from a dealer. $139 the cheapest part price. I called Frederick EQ and told him I had it apart. He said he has no problem swapping the part so he ordered one. I picked it up, installed it and it started right up and runs great. Just cost gas to the store.
My Stihl weed whacker head froze up so I could not get line out and can not turn the wing nut with any tool. I bought a bump feed while I was there and it works great. The original was manual.
I have never seen a friendlier bunch then at that store so when I need a new mower I will go there.

[FergusonTO35]

I try to give local shops as much business as possible, as long as they at least behave like they appreciate it. I shop my local Ace Hardware alot but don't buy Echo parts there. They never have them in stock and don't act as if they are very interested in selling them. They do give me good help on hardware items so I buy those from Ace.

Ethanol is actually a really good motor fuel. It burns clean, has very high octane, and more heat energy than gasoline. It has never given me a single problem as long as I use fuel stabilizer.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I try to give local shops as much business as possible, as long as they at least behave like they appreciate it. I shop my local Ace Hardware alot but don't buy Echo parts there. They never have them in stock and don't act as if they are very interested in selling them. They do give me good help on hardware items so I buy those from Ace.

Ethanol is actually a really good motor fuel. It burns clean, has very high octane, and more heat energy than gasoline. It has never given me a single problem as long as I use fuel stabilizer.
"and more heat energy than gasoline" WHAT ???

"One US gallon of gasoline contains 114,000 BTU of energy"
" ethanol only has 76,100 BTU's of energy per gallon"
http://www.hho4free.com/gasoline_vs_ethanol.htm

[white eagle]

My new Husky 562 says no ethanol period
I get what you are saying bout ethanol though but ad that it also burns faster so you don't get near the mpg as you do from gasoline
I try to buy local but I got my saw for 200.00 cheaper on line than from the local dealer.

[starmac]

LMAO, just because we get the privilege of paying more for ethanol, doesn't mean it is better in any way at all.

As far as I know, so far Alaska is ethanol free.

[Clay M]

Is any gasoline ethanol free now? I used Amoco white gas all the time growing up, but I am not even sure it is ethanol free anymore.

[Hannibal]

I am a Missouri resident and I can tell you premium gasoline IS available at some gasoline retailers that is plainly labeled with emphasis on it containing no ethanol. And I can also tell you it commands an above-premium price. Unless there is an exception I am unaware of, Federal Law requires retailers to label fuels containing ethanol. A look at the labels on the pump should tell you all you want to know.

[Clay M]

I always run premium gas to mix with the oil in my chainsaws ,since it is higher octane..
I will look at the Amoco gas next time I go to town, but most gas around here says 10% ethanol.

The Stihl shop had a big sign.. No ethanol in our saws..

[Hannibal]

Yeah. All I can say is I have 2 Stihl chain saws, an old Lawn Boy 2-stroke push mower and an FS 90 Stihl trimmer. Ethanol free fuel was not available until recently and even now is 80 miles away so far. I never buy anything but regular, 87 octane fuel and have always used Stihl HD Super 2-stroke oil. I cut 12 + cords of wood annually and run multiple tanks of fuel thru the trimmer and lawn mower. This has been my pattern since Ethanol was introduced. I have had zero fuel/carburetor/fuel line problems.

Now I suppose tomorrow the fecal matter will hit the air circulator. But I doubt it.

[Clay M]

I am sure I have run ethanol in my saws. If I am going to put them up for a while I always run the fuel out of the carburetor.

[JesterGrin_1]

I noticed many people talking about fuel. And a few posters are correct just go to your local place that sells race fuel such as VP Racing fuel. Even though today the selection of fuels they make is mind boggling lol. I sure wish I could still get So-Cal :(. The reason is that VP is a mixed fuel and So-Cal was a pure blended race fuel.

[starmac]

Most saw manufacturers will double or tripple your warranty, depending on brand, IF you buy 2 I think stihl is, but 3 from husky quarts of the canned blended fuel. You don't have to prove you ever used it, just purchase it at the same time you leave with your new saw. This came about because of ethanol fuel.
Talking to the dealer it doesn't really matter for commercial users that run gas through there saw daily and use fresh gas all the time. Where it pays them to do this is homeowner occasional users that may crank up a few times, then again in a few months.
They claimed the way many commercial users here do, as in use their saw daily through the winter, then basically put them away through spring until freezup, to fill it with the canned fuel for the last tank.

I doubt seriously if the dealers would double or triple the warranty as an incentive to buy their premix, which I think is all the same, no matter whose name is on the can, if they didn't think it would not come back to them in the form of less warranty repairs.

[Mal Paso]

I have never used anything but pump gas and have not had problems yet. Now that I said something..........

$6 a quart was the best price I found: http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaws/Fuels-Oils-Lubricants/Pre-Mixed-2-Cycle-Fuel/VP-Racing-Small-Engine-Pre-Mixed-2-Cycle-Fuel-40-1-Case-of-8-Quarts.axd

$24 a gallon? Amazon was more but included shipping. 900% more than pump gas? That's going to be a hard sell to guys that make bullets from Wheel Weights. :bigsmyl2:

[LIMPINGJ]

Go to pure-gas.org for a list of places to purchase ethanol free.

[starmac]

I have never used anything but pump gas and have not had problems yet. Now that I said something..........

$6 a quart was the best price I found: http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaws/Fuels-Oils-Lubricants/Pre-Mixed-2-Cycle-Fuel/VP-Racing-Small-Engine-Pre-Mixed-2-Cycle-Fuel-40-1-Case-of-8-Quarts.axd

$24 a gallon? Amazon was more but included shipping. 900% more than pump gas? That's going to be a hard sell to guys that make bullets from Wheel Weights. :bigsmyl2:

Yes but I think husky requires you to buy three, to triple your warranty, and stihl from what I have heard only requires you to buy 2 to double the warranty, worth it to someone that does not use a saw much.

[OnHoPr]

I went to a specialty fuels establishment a few years ago to acquire such a type of gas. Even though it was a bit of a sticker shock from gas station prices it was still at least comprehensible. I think it was only a buck 50 or buck 75 over the gas station prices. So, 2 gallons smacked the hell out of a 10 spot. Two gallons should cut at least 15 cord or darn near your winters wood supply. Though, they had it stored in an above ground tank, so I would put it in a plastic milk jug and freeze it first to get the moisture out of it, then back in two cycle can.

[Mal Paso]

Go to pure-gas.org for a list of places to purchase ethanol free.

Thanks! Just printed a list of ethanol free stations for my (Northern) area.

Bulk ethanol free gas doesn't seem to be available anywhere near Carmel. Go figure.

The prices I quoted were for quart steel cans which accounts for most of the cost. My Stihl was built for laborers in the rain forest and a quart of gas is 1 filling.

[Geezer in NH]

LL avgas from the small airports are the pro's choice for their saws in our area of NH.