From nothing but problems to perfect casting session after changing lead mix.

[destrux]

Since I started casting a couple years ago I have always had a somewhat difficult time with it. Maybe it's my choice of equipment (Lee), maybe it's my impatience, or maybe my exclusive use of wheel weight lead (that I personally smelt to be sure there's no zinc). Even after solving my Lee mold galling problems (the set screw fix is now standard procedure for every new mold I buy), I'd always struggled with inclusions on my bullets no matter the casting temp or mold lube type, and I'd quit casting several times because of it. I'd think I'd have it solved and then it would start happening again with no change in my technique to blame.

Then last week I got into casting for black powder. I had no suitable ingots for it so I asked around and got a box of lead from a glass shop and a very soft lead pipe from my uncle, both hardness tested at 5, so I assume they are pure lead. Smelted them into ingots, and drained my casting pot as best I could and swapped in the pure lead.

I ordered a Lee 130gr conical .375" mold and scrubbed it as usual in purple power cleaner, and added a set screw to lock the sprue plate bolt so I could set the plate tension loose enough not to gall. Preheated the mold on top of the edge of the pot for 15 minutes... then against my better judgement I touched the pivot with a bees wax pencil (which ALWAYS caused wrinkles for me previously but for some reason I did it this time anyway). Then I started casting... and EVERY single bullet I dropped was PERFECT and looked like it was made of chrome (which particularly struck me as my bullets were always frosted in all of the thousands I've casted before I was never able to get shiny bullets).

Same technique as always, but much much better results.

So I have to wonder.... is this because I'm using pure lead rather than lead with tin/antimony/arsenic? Is this just the nature of pure lead to cast easily and drop shiny bullets like this?

[Yodogsandman]

Pure lead needs a hotter pot for good casting. Your heat might be too hot when you're using lead/tin/antimony alloys.

[s mac]

Yes, the pure lead won't be frosty.

[destrux]

See I was running the pot hot on the alloys because I was having mold fill-out problems with my aluminum molds. Are the iron or brass molds easier to fill out at lower temps? I'm tempted to ditch the aluminum molds for my smokeless casting if that's the case.

[44man]

No, there is no difference. Alloys need different heat is all. It is just a learning curve. Mold tweaking also.

[L Erie Caster]

When I have fill out problems I add tin not heat. About a foot or two of tin solder. It works for me so maybe you could try it?

[s mac]

Improper venting also affects fill out.

[Yodogsandman]

See I was running the pot hot on the alloys because I was having mold fill-out problems with my aluminum molds. Are the iron or brass molds easier to fill out at lower temps? I'm tempted to ditch the aluminum molds for my smokeless casting if that's the case.

You should run your alloy about 100*F to 125*F over the liquidus state, where the alloy just turns liquid. If you have problems at that temperature, you need to add more tin (Sn) as stated above. Venting was mentioned too but, normally shows up as rounded bases.

[destrux]

I'll try adding tin. I hadn't been adding quite as much as L.E.C. described, only about 1/4 of that. I'd already added vent lines to several molds to help, but that didn't seem to be the cause this time.

[Zaneiel]

I always have better results after adding a little tin to my melt, it helps a ton. Flows better and fills out the mold, also seem shiny little pills :)

[GSM]

Temp, tin, and venting all play a part. Sometimes Karma and ambient temperature.

Each mold is "unique" and will eventually show you what it likes / wants. Just have to have the patience to figure out what it is telling you through the failures - throwing it against the wall or slamming it on the bench is usually not a good communication technique. Expedient, but not good.

[Green Frog]

I find that if I add just a couple of percent tin to pure wheel weights I get beautiful and complete fills. If you can get some bar tin and add about 1/4# or so to a 20# melt you will be amazed at the improvement you see. BTW, pure lead doesn't cast as well as an alloy with even a tiny amount of tin to help it "flow" better.

Froggie

[gwpercle]

Planets were aligned ...just when you start thinking...Hah ! I got all this figured out....I know what to do, when to do it and how to do it....then the bottom drops out and every other bullet is messed up. Watch out , the reloading Gods are mean and they enjoy sticking it to you.

[ohland]

foot or two of tin solder

Yup, the no-lead solder is easy to measure out and cut. I had bought a few of those tin bars (1/2x1/2x6) and I found out how resistant they are to being cut with an axe, or bent back and forth to cause fatigue... Using channel locks or similar, dunk the proper length into hot lead and it will melt nicely.... The part out of the melt will be fine... but hot...

[destrux]

I figured out why I was having such great luck with casting these muzzle loader bullets with the pure lead. It wasn't because of the lead mix, or the temp... it was because the bullet is so stubby. The other bullets I was pulling my hair out over are over an inch long, the skinny Lee 230gr .309". The pour spout on my Lee pot was pouring so fast it was frothing the lead from the long freefall into the deep 230gr mold, leaving it full of air pockets and causing some weird voids. That wasn't happening with the very short trip into this stubby 130gr conical mold.

I figured this out last night when I let my lead pot run nearly to the bottom while trying to cast ONE good 230gr blackout bullet (they were still awful even after adding 3.5oz of tin 95SN5CU solder as suggested). When the head pressure in the pot dropped to the point the lead was barely trickling out of the nozzle I started getting perfect bullets. See I never let my lead pot run low like that, I always run it topped off, never below 3/4 full. I was too frustrated to bother filling it this time though. So I took some pliers and bent the valve handle on the pot so it can't open as far. Then I topped up the pot, checked the flow rate again to be sure it was still very slow, and cast a couple hundred perfect bullets with very few rejects.

Who would have thought...

[guncheese]

Lee pot was pouring so fast it was frothing the lead from the long free fall
Who would have thought...


now would be a great time to start ladle pouring your long bullets
in the grand scheme ive made more good bullets ladle pouring than i have bottom pouring
but the bottom pour is darn convenient

[s mac]

now would be a great time to start ladle pouring your long bullets
in the grand scheme ive made more good bullets ladle pouring than i have bottom pouring
but the bottom pour is darn convenient

I'll second that.

[Bzcraig]

I have gotten into the habit of holding my molds at pretty steep angles when pouring.