Need photograph of throtle linkage, 1964 Chevy

[Petrol & Powder]

Help ! I'm trying to gather the parts to return a chevy in-line six to a factory one barrel carburetor.

I have a 1964 Bel Air with a straight six that the previous owner converted to a four barrel Holley. Don't ask me why, I wouldn't do it. I have the original cast iron intake for the one barrel and three (3) Rochester BV one barrel carbs (hopefully I can get one good carburetor out of those three). I need a photograph of the factory throttle linkage and related parts so that I can return it to as close to original as possible. Doesn't need to be a show car but that 4 barrel has to go. It looks like there's a bell crank on the intake below the carburetor that the throttle rod connects to but there's some type of intermediate linkage between the carb and the bell crank that I think I'm missing.

I think most of the B body 6 cylinders were similar from 61 - 65, so any photograph of a stock full size chevy with a straight 6 will be close.
Thanks.

[bearcove]

Have you looked in repair manuals? Usually full of pictures. Anything with that engine should help.

[Petrol & Powder]

Unfortunately I haven't found anything on the internet that shows the detail and when I do find a good photo it's always the right side of the engine.

[RED333]

Some are from a truck, some from a car.
I hope it helps, google in my friend.

[bearcove]

Chiltons or Haynes. Library.

[Petrol & Powder]

RED333 - THANKS !! that is a big help.

[DougGuy]

YOutube might also have vids of the same year era, might not be a bel air but another chevy in that year group.

[Petrol & Powder]

Three Rochester Monojet carburetors to choose from but not a good one in the bunch!
Surprisingly once I got it together it fired right up but between one carb leaking fuel, one with a vacuum leak that will not idle and one with the wrong air horn; none of the three carburetors worked. So, I have a rebuilt one on order.
I did manage to find all of the needed linkage parts. Thanks again to all that helped. An once again I'm at the mercy of USPS or FedEx.

[Petrol & Powder]

I waiting on a rebuilt Rochester Monojet carburetor but in the meantime I'm starting to wonder if I have a manifold leak. Played around with the available carbs and none of them will idle when hot. The engine (a 250 straight 6 with the old style intake/exhaust manifolds) runs fine with the choke partially closed or some restriction of the air flow. I can't find a vacuum leak but all signs point to one. Spraying carb cleaner around the throttle shaft causes the revs to go up with two of the newer carbs installed. I find it hard to believe two of the cleaner looking carbs have bad/leaking throttle shafts?
I'll install the new carb when it gets here but if that doesn't work the manifolds have to come off and get swapped out.
Does anyone know if those intake manifolds were prone to cracking? I looked at it before joining it to the exhaust and putting it on the engine and it looked fine. It sure seems to have a leak somewhere.

[Petrol & Powder]

Success !! Seems like carburetor #4 was the ticket !

Thanks to all that offered assistance.

Love those old straight sixes. You will not win many races with them but they are simple, workhorse engines.

[popper]

For a while some of the carb makers recommended to NOT clean the throttle shafts as they put a special coating on it - to reduce wear and gumming. There was also a tool to knurl the shaft for worn parts.

[Petrol & Powder]

I've seen the brass inserts for throttle shafts but in today's world of fuel injection good carburetor kits are getting very difficult to find. I suspect there will be a small cottage industry to serve the needs of luddites like me.

[cajun shooter]

The test you did with the spray cleaner where the engine RPM's went up describes a gasket leak or vacuum problem. If the choke is giving you trouble, you just remove the outer 3 screws holding the cover on and adjust the choke to where it's in a wide open position. This will work in a warm climate as a temp type of repair and save a ton of fuel. If it stays closed only a little bit, your engine will run rich and your fuel bill will increase.
From a 68 year old mechanic that earned his stripes with the 6 cylinder Chevy motors, 216, 235 and 292 motors. The four barrel set ups were usually done with a 390 CFM carb which did not use that much fuel over the stock Rochester carbs. Chevrolet man all my life. Later David

[Petrol & Powder]

Thank you Cajun Shooter. The 4 barrel that was on the engine when I purchased the car was a Holley and I believe it was in fact a 390 cfm carb. (for sale now along with the four barrel intake [smilie=s:)
The car was not very drivable with that setup and I suspect the carb was jetted to rich. Not to mention the throttle linkage was cobbled together. The guy I purchased the car from wasn't an idiot but he wasn't really an old chevy guy either. In any event, I wanted that 4 barrel off, so it came off.
I put the stock one barrel manifold on and finally found a Rochester one barrel that works. The choke is set up properly and is working as it should. I agree that I had a vacuum leak with two of those old carbs and the leak was probably at the throttle shaft or in the body of the carburetor itself or maybe both. I tried several different carb to manifold gaskets with no luck but the "new" carburetor fired right up and idled with very little adjustment needed. It seems to be running fine now.
If you don't mind I'd like to send you a PM and get some advice from a mechanic that has been there and done that.

[RED333]

Them little 6 bangers are strong, saw a Ford Maverick at the strip with
a straight 6 pull so hard it lifted the front wheels and the right rear.
Needless to say I do not need to tell you what happened next with just one tire pushing on the ground.

[Petrol & Powder]

A straight six can make a lot of torque and is frequently underestimated as "just a 6 cylinder". I think because they were so ubiquitous as base level engines and often relegated to trucks and less expensive cars, they were incorrectly perceived as inferior engines.
A V-8 with 100 more cubic inches of displacement will make more horsepower but a straight six with less displacement will come close to making the same amount of torque as a bigger V-8 and it will do it at lower rpm's. They're not quick but they are deceivingly strong for their size.
I've had a bunch of straight six engines over the years and I have developed a lot of respect for that simple, reliable and very durable design. Six in a row can go !!!

[cajun shooter]

PM sent

[jumbeaux]

When I got out of the Navy I bought a used '60 Chevy pickup. It was a heavy duty half ton. It had a hand choke and a hand throttle. I started going to night school machine shop classes at a junior College that was an 80 mile round trip from home. Most of the trip was on an interstate. I would get up to speed, pull the hand throttle out until I felt the gas pedal start to move and I had cruise control. Previous owner had installed a canister oil filter that had a cleanable filter element. It was mounted up high off the passengers side of the engine block. Truck also had an oil bath air cleaner. It was bad about jumping out of third gear so I took a screen door spring and put a steel ring on one end and a hook on the other end. I tacked a nut to the floorboard where I would slip the hook end. When I got on the highway I would slip the ring end to the shifter handle and no jumping out of gear. Only other thing I ever did to it was replace the split rims with white wagon wheels. Darn thing could haul a cord of wood after we put on helper springs but it was pretty slow stopping with that load. Truck ran until about 1990. Finally a buddy parted it out. I have owned 4 pickups with inline sixes...the Chevy and three Ford 300 cubic inch sixes. Darn things were all bullet proof.

[gwpercle]

Help ! I'm trying to gather the parts to return a chevy in-line six to a factory one barrel carburetor.

I have a 1964 Bel Air with a straight six that the previous owner converted to a four barrel Holley. Don't ask me why, I wouldn't do it. I have the original cast iron intake for the one barrel and three (3) Rochester BV one barrel carbs (hopefully I can get one good carburetor out of those three). I need a photograph of the factory throttle linkage and related parts so that I can return it to as close to original as possible. Doesn't need to be a show car but that 4 barrel has to go. It looks like there's a bell crank on the intake below the carburetor that the throttle rod connects to but there's some type of intermediate linkage between the carb and the bell crank that I think I'm missing.

I think most of the B body 6 cylinders were similar from 61 - 65, so any photograph of a stock full size chevy with a straight 6 will be close.
Thanks.

I know why it had a 4 barrel on it. Same reason my 1968 307 Malibu has a 4 barrel instead of a 2 barrel. For a time you couldn't get a new 2 barrel or 1 barrel carb. only rebuilds and those were 40 year old carbs that had been rebuilt 3 or 4 times. Most of them just didn't last . I had one last 4 days, another lasted 3 months and a third lasted 6 months. Holley only warrants them for 30 days and they didn't manufacture a new 2 barrel (I was trying to keep it factory original). I just got sick and tired of rebuilt failures , replaced it with a new Edelbrock 4 barrel which cost less than a wore out rebuilt Holley with 30 day warranty. It's been on there 4 years and I love the extra horsepower.
Gary
Fathom Blue 68 Malibu.

[Petrol & Powder]

gwpercle, I know you're right; fortunately things have improved a bit. I've got a good Rochester Monojet on it now and it's dialed in. I understand the 4 barrel carb on a six cylinder but the one that was on there just wasn't right. The jets were incorrect and the linkage was a mess. The two cast iron intakes that I had were both for a factory one barrel types so that's what went on. I'm actually pretty happy with it now. Factory linkage, factory air cleaner, working factory choke and no leaks.
If I had a factory intake for a two barrel that would have been OK as well. Years ago I had a Weber two barrel carb that was set up with a primary and secondary barrel, kind of like 1/2 of a 4 barrel. I don't recall the bolt pattern but is was a decent carburetor.
The one barrel carb is basically a compromise and they have to make them small enough for good throttle response and big enough that they will flow an adequate amount of air on the top end. The result is usually less than ideal fuel mileage but a workable system.

[Petrol & Powder]

OK, slowly and steadily getting this 6 banger dialed in. Time to change the oil. The engine is a 250 (not original but a good engine) and I believe it's out of a 1971. I'm thinking a good 10W-30 plus a can of STP for the ZDDP.
Any recommendations ?

[RED333]

OK, slowly and steadily getting this 6 banger dialed in. Time to change the oil. The engine is a 250 (not original but a good engine) and I believe it's out of a 1971. I'm thinking a good 10W-30 plus a can of STP for the ZDDP.
Any recommendations ?
I use a Wix filter on my stuff, oil is on you and you picked good.

[Petrol & Powder]

Thanks

[Petrol & Powder]

A quick update. Got everything sorted out and had a little too much play in the linkage. Needed a bushing and it turned out that a 38 Special casing, cut down to about .425" with the flash hole drilled out was just right. It worked perfectly !
I love it when I can combine gun stuff and car stuff. !!