Pic of Burnt Lead? Wouldn't Harden In Mold

[psychbiker]

So my trials and tribulations continue as a new caster.

PID still not working, continues to get hot.

I finally got 2 NOE molds up to temp and the pic below began happening. Lead wouldn't harden, I was able to pour it from the mold back into the pot.

Was the Sprue plate too hot? I did add some monotype (handful of letter pieces) to the pot with a stick of nearly pure and a stick of WW.

After that happened, several molds got lead stuck and wouldn't close, leaving me with little lips on the bullets. Not a big deal, but now I gotta clean the molds somehow.

http://i.imgur.com/TlHFoFNl.png

[depoloni]

Mold is WAAAAAY too hot based on those results!

If it's taking more than 5-7 seconds for the sprues to harden after pouring, your mold blocks are too hot usually.
Could be a combination of pouring the lead itself at way too high a temp, could be excessive pre-heat of the mold blocks, or both.

[frkelly74]

I think you would do well to get some mentoring on your process there. Are you in Florida? We could get you making some nice boolits in a couple of hours without too much problem I'm pretty sure. Showing may be more effective than telling.

[bhn22]

What temp do you have your PID set at, anyway? Also, did you convert the scale from Celsius to Fahrenheit?

As you noted, that is insanely hot!

[psychbiker]

I'm in NORCAL Bay Area. Pid is set at 730 and in 3 casting sessions, it has yet to stop and stay at 730. Got up to 1000 the other day. I'm certain my wiring is correct. I'll double check.

I was able to make around 400 perfect 180gr 40sw from an RCBS 2 cavity cast iron mold. Many 198gr 30cals came out shiny, just had some flanges cuz the mold got lead stuck.

[bangerjim]

Forget the PID! Use the PID as a thermometer ONLY (for now) to get your temp right and cast some boolits. Once you get some GOOD ONES, figure out what temp is optimal and play with the controller then.

Just use the standard temp control knob in your pot. Set it at about 50% and try some. Then keep turning it up from there. The PID control will come later! Best to start out the "old school" way we all learned.

banger

[Yodogsandman]

The learning curve will be a lot shorter with a PID that works right. Check that wiring again. Are your DC side wires crossed on the SSR?

[bhn22]

It sounds like the PID isn't getting any input from the thermocouple for some reason. I'd look there first, since we already know that you're getting power to the pot. What type of thermocouple are you using, and is it in direct contact with the molten alloy? Also, it is recommended that you use the same wire from the thermocouple all the way to the PID. This would involve snipping perhaps six inches off your TC lead to use internally between the PID and the output socket to the TC. Failure to do this could cause incorrect signals between the TC and the PID. I seem to recall that you put a PID socket in yours so you could use different TCs in the future.

[psychbiker]

It sounds like the PID isn't getting any input from the thermocouple for some reason. I'd look there first, since we already know that you're getting power to the pot. What type of thermocouple are you using, and is it in direct contact with the molten alloy? Also, it is recommended that you use the same wire from the thermocouple all the way to the PID. This would involve snipping perhaps six inches off your TC lead to use internally between the PID and the output socket to the TC. Failure to do this could cause incorrect signals between the TC and the PID. I seem to recall that you put a PID socket in yours so you could use different TCs in the future.


Ill check the TC out tomorrow. I did add a thermocouple female socket on my box so I can just plug the TC in the back. The TC that came was about 6ft long with spade connectors. I cut those off and stripped TC and wired a male connector on. I used about a foot long piece of the TC wire to run from the PID to the female TC socket on the inside of my box. It reads temperature correctly, not to say something else isn't off.

[bangerjim]

If it reads temp correctly, do as I said and plug your pot into an outlet and use it's internal temp dial until you figure out what is going on. At least if you want some casting experience instead of just remelting everything you are now dong.

Once you get comfortable with that, figure out what the controller is MOT doing right.

banger.

[popper]

Failed SSR or leads backwards on the DC side. One side of the AC line goes through the AC SSR, other side goes to the pot. Most PID controllers have an LED that shows when the SSR is 'supposed' to be on.

[gwpercle]

You are aware you do not need a PID to cast boolits with. I've been doing it since 1967 without one. I have Three different Lee electric melters and all three work the same.
Start out with it set 0n the number 7.5, after all the lead in the pot melts and is fluxed a time or two, start casting with a preheated mould, I use Lee moulds and follow their directions.
Be careful, you can ruin a aluminum mould by overheating it.
During casting, let the sprue harden then count to 5 or 6 , open the mould. If it takes longer or the boolits start to look frosty....too hot, I back the dial back to 7.25 and continue , if things are still too hot back the dial down to just above 7.0. If the weather is cold or hot it makes a small difference.
Hope you didn't fry those NOE moulds. Thinking about getting one myself. You may want to practice/learn with a $20.00 Lee mould, ruining one of those doesn't hurt as much.

Gary

[Springfield]

psychbiker: Where in the Bay Area? I am in San Jose so maybe not too far away.

[MBTcustom]

1. You don't need a PID unless you are casting uber consistent rifle bullets.

2. You have two temperatures that need to be controlled: mold temp and alloy temp, and mold temp is far FAR more important than alloy temp. You are controlling the heck out of one, and totally neglecting the other.

3. You should try dipping the corner of the mold, and cast until the bullets are frosty. You will see your bullets go from wrinkly, to shiny, to half and half, to slightly frosty, to heavily frosted, and finally, what you see in the picture you posted. All this will happen as the mold heats up, and if you keep your drops in order, you can easily see the progression, and you will know what to look for.

Don't get wrapped around the axle with the techno gadgets until you have mastered the basic skill sets required to cast good bullets.
I've been casting for 20 years, and the first 15 of those was spent with a Coleman stove and a ladle, and not a single thought was given to alloy temperature.
After 15 years of casting, I upgraded to a bottom pour pot, and whoa baby! what a nice "convenience"! (that's right. I said convenience. It's not a necessity).
After casting a few thousand bullets with the bottom pour pot (you know, 6-10), I found I was getting just really picky, and I wanted bullet weights to all fall in the 1 grain area while also looking awesome, so I built a PID and found it to be even more convenient.
Then I wanted to up the anti again, so I used an NOE mold thermometer and drilled my molds for the probe, which was even more convenient, and gave me perfect looking bullets that dropped in the +-.1 grain area.

Now, was any of this useful for casting 45ACP? heck no! It was an epic waste of time at best for low speed poppers! I did all that so I could shoot cast bullets at 2750 FPS out of a high power XCB cast bullet target rifle!

If I were you, I would take a step back, reexamine the situation and start over from a more basic point of view.

[bangerjim]

^^^^^^^^"BACK TO BASICS!^^^^^^^^^^^ AGREE.

Forget the PID until you can cast good/excellent boolits the old school way. Then you can add the techno-carp. Once you have the techniques and experience down, branch out form there.

I have never used or ever will use a controller on a simple little lead melting pot (or a toaster oven). AND....I sell them (and all the stuff associated with them) in the company I own......so basically TOTALLY FREE for me.

Lean how to cast......then add the glitter afterwards! I cast PERFECT boolits without one or a casting thermometer. So can you. Practice......practice.....practice.....and common sense.

bangerjim

[leadman]

The PID will be an advantage if working properly. Use the temperature control on the pot as a safety device and set it a little higher than what your PID is set for. Do not take it out of the circuit.
Does the output of your PID match the relay or SSR that you are using? I had a couple of the PID units that were mismarked and they would not control the temperature.

[OuchHot!]

Another voice to the "back to the basics" group. Something is way out of whack, both pot and mold are way over temp. Is your thermocouple the correct type for the setting of your PID (Iron-constantin or Chromel-alumel or whatever)? Otherwise, there is a connection cock-up or the PID just doesn't work. I would try working without the PID and follow the good advice above. I made a lot of good bullets for decades before the PID introduction. To a new person, hot lead looks like hot lead. Once you make some good bullets you can smell or feel the temp of your equipment well enough to get the job done. When you get to where you have a flock of molds, and use several different alloys, a PID and good notes help a lot to speed things up.

[rsrocket1]

The other thing to do is to take your thermocouple probe and do a sanity check. Get a cup of ice cubes and water. Make sure the PID is reading 32F. Don't let the T/C touch the ice itself. Then get a pot of water boiling and put the probe in it and see that it reads close to 212F.

I agree with Jim and the others. For starters, set the pot dial to the middle. Don't plug the pot into the PID, just use the PID as a thermometer to show you the temperature of the lead without trying to control it. See how well the dial can keep a steady temp and start casting that way.

[fredj338]

Unhook the PID if it isn't working. Get a therm to check the lead. I have NEVER had a mold or alloy get so hot as the alloy in the mold wouldn't harden. It may take a long time, but never had it not setup. The mold temp would have to be over 650deg. If it's that hot, run a fan to cool the mold or use two molds & rotate, but alloy temp rarely needs to exceed 700deg to pour good bullets.
I've been casting for decades w/o a PID. I just had my buddy build me one. We'll see if it helps or hurts my results.:veryconfu

[psychbiker]

http://youtu.be/xR-lzO18i68

Plan on casting without PID until I determine the problem. I did make a video using a 20w light plugged into PID to see what's working.

Video up top. Set temp to 90 and thought the light would get turned off when temp reached. Pid clicked and a setting went from 100 to 0, video shows it all. Only 1 1/2 minutes.

[OuchHot!]

To me, it looks like the PID is working from the perspective of thermocouple detection and response to set point. So it looks like, for whatever reason, your ssr is not switching the load.

[country gent]

I still cast over a burner and pot with a ladle, It just works for me so Im not changing anything yet. Alot can be learned and or accomplished with basic equipment. I would recomend using the pot with its original control and the addition of a thermometer to monitor temps. Pre heat mould on hot plate or on top of pot while its coming up to temp. Depending on alloy start around 700* and cast at a comfortable pace makeing sure mould is completely closed each time and fully solid, not just the sprue but the bullet also needs to firm up some. (With long bullets and a fast pace you can cast beautifull bannannas) Work on the basics seeing what works what dosnt and what it takes. Experiment with temps adjusting the pots controller. When you know alloys desired temp to pour at, the proper cadence and form then start with the pid and the thermometer working to the same results as before. When doing this chage one thing at a time not multiples. By changing only one thing at a time you know what "fixed" the problem.

[OuchHot!]

I see nothing wrong with your wiring. Do you have a voltmeter that you can put across the PID output to the SSR? Terminals 3 and 4.

[psychbiker]

I see nothing wrong with your wiring. Do you have a voltmeter that you can put across the PID output to the SSR? Terminals 3 and 4.

Here's the volt meter I have. I turned it to Vac 200 and got 127 volts from 1 and 2 on the load side of SSR and 127 volts from #1 of PID. The black terminal of the meter was on the ground terminal in the box. With negative terminal of volt meter on -4 and positive on +3 of ssr I get 52 volts. Also, 52 volts with positive on #4 of PID and negative on -4 input of ssr.

Plugged light in and waited for PID to click and reach temp, nothing changed on the PID or ssr volt wise.

Ssr light always on. I think the ssr is bad or wired wrong.

http://i.imgur.com/ULqyZS4.jpg

[bangerjim]

You can make a t/c junction with two paperclips twisted together! But the idea is to get two dis-similar metals of know alloy (T, R, S, J, K) for that junction and temp range.

Two wires twisted together will read a temp. Is it accurate? NO. But will it be off as much as your error? Again, NO.

Your problem is with the controller itself and/or how you have it wired to the SSR. And you could have a lemon with that cheap internet stuff. It is a total carp-shoot ordering that stuff from China.

But again, go back to the bare basics and forget the controller for now. And get out there and learn casting.......the way most of us did.......by the seat of our non-digital pants!

Have fun!

bangerjim

[OuchHot!]

My understanding is that your PID is putting 52volts DC to the SSR. If that is not changing then your SSR is in ON all the time. The PID voltage to the SSR should switch on and off. The other thing that is odd is that 52v sounds higher than usual for the SSR. Maybe the output circuit of your PID is not working and is driving your SSR on all the time. Sorry, that's all I've got. I see nothing wrong with the wiring that you have done.

[N4AUD]

I watched the video. It looks to me like you're setting it at 1000, not 100. I have the same PID and mine has no decimal point. Try setting it at what you would call 73 and I thing is 730. I think it will work. I think you are just misreading the numbers.

[edctexas]

I have never seen a PID that put out 52V. The SSR expects 10-25V when you want AC output and near zero for no output. The SSR usually has an opto coupler to isolate the AC wiring (the output switching side) from the control or PID side. In your video, the setpoint seemed to go to zero. You should not need to push any buttons for the test you are running. Set the temp desired to 500. Keep TC back from lamp bulb. Lamp should be on. Now move the TC toward the lamp. When the temp gets close to the set temp (500) the lamp should pulse. The PID and the SSR should show pulsing. Now raise the TC temp above 500 and the lamp should go off.

If PID does this, it is working. But I agree with those guys that said back the pot's dial to 50-60% and watch the upper readout. You should get something in the 500-700F range. I have assumed that your PID is running Fahrenheit or Centigrade. The other area that could be a problem is that the PID is not set for the correct thermocouple. But if you checked it with ICE water and boiling water, that should not be the problem.

I hope that you are able to get casting. The NOE molds will throw some fine boolits!

Ed C

[Yodogsandman]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?282283-Help-Wiring-PID-wood-guy-not-good-w-wiring

Post#8 of the above thread of yours, says you and your dad wired it up just like the diagram in post#2 (post@2).

Post #5 of the above thread shows the location for the wiring for YOUR ACTUAL PID unit.

The PID wires are different and switched in the diagram of post#2 and YOUR ACTUAL PID wiring diagram on a sticker on the side of your PID, shown in post#5. This sticker shows the wire from terminal #3 (PID) goes to the #3 (SSR) connection and the wire from terminal #4 (PID) goes to #4 (SSR) connection.

The wiring hookups from the diagram you used and the PID sticker are different.

[Mike W1]

One suggestion I would make, and this applies to us all. If you've got a problem with something get one thread going on it and not 3 of em' as seems to be the case here. I've likely been as guilty as anybody but am trying to avoid doing it in the future. In this case I'm thinking post #29 might have hit something on the head too. I don't know what happens when you reverse the signal wires to a SSR but wouldn't think it would do it any good! Another thought is a RTD is not the same animal as a TC. Being casters use TC's why would somebody even show a schematic with a RTD on it?

[psychbiker]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?282283-Help-Wiring-PID-wood-guy-not-good-w-wiring

Post#8 of the above thread of yours, says you and your dad wired it up just like the diagram in post#2 (post@2).

Post #5 of the above thread shows the location for the wiring for YOUR ACTUAL PID unit.

The PID wires are different and switched in the diagram of post#2 and YOUR ACTUAL PID wiring diagram on a sticker on the side of your PID, shown in post#5. This sticker shows the wire from terminal #3 (PID) goes to the #3 (SSR) connection and the wire from terminal #4 (PID) goes to #4 (SSR) connection.

The wiring hookups from the diagram you used and the PID sticker are different.

I'm confused by this because the link doesnt work in Post #2.

My bad drawing is below and I followed the schematic here (http://i.imgur.com/czuhaeL.jpg) because its the only Mypin Ta4 schematic exactly like mine I was able to find. Terminals 3 and 4 on the PID and -4 and +3 are correctly hooked up.

144500

144501

[psychbiker]

One suggestion I would make, and this applies to us all. If you've got a problem with something get one thread going on it and not 3 of em' as seems to be the case here. I've likely been as guilty as anybody but am trying to avoid doing it in the future. In this case I'm thinking post #29 might have hit something on the head too. I don't know what happens when you reverse the signal wires to a SSR but wouldn't think it would do it any good! Another thought is a RTD is not the same animal as a TC. Being casters use TC's why would somebody even show a schematic with a RTD on it?

Didnt mean to cross post. This was really about burnt lead but got off on PID issues.

The overall schematic is the same. I just did not use an RTD.

[cold1]

Here's the volt meter I have. I turned it to Vac 200 and got 127 volts from 1 and 2 on the load side of SSR and 127 volts from #1 of PID. The output light was on whenyou measured this?
The black terminal of the meter was on the ground terminal in the box. With negative terminal of volt meter on -4 and positive on +3 of ssr I get 52 volts. Also, 52 volts with positive on #4 of PID and negative on -4 input of ssr. Was the meter measuring AC or DC for this reading?

Ssr light always on. I think the ssr is bad or wired wrong.



I think you have a few problems happening at once. The main being that the PID is not programed correctly. Most PIDS have several different parameters that must be setup in the software. There should have been a book that came with yours or at least a downloadable instruction book. In watching the video, if the PID was setup correctly, the output light on the front should start pulsing on and off when it gets close to the set point. Yours when immediately into an alarm condition. Some PID outputs have to be told how to operate in the software. If you are sure that you have it wired up correctly, then start reading the instruction book that came with it.

[psychbiker]

The output light was on when I read 127 volts.

The meter was measuring AC, however, my dad stopped by, laughed and showed me the meter needed to be on DC for the input side of the ssr.

With the negative on -4 ssr and positive on +3 I get 22 volts dc. With negative on -4 ssr and positive on #4 PID I get 22 volts dc.

Not it sure if this helps at all.

What would happen if I switched -4 and +3 of the ssr? If I remove +3 on the ssr (which goes to terminal 4 on the PID) the lamp light goes out.

http://i.imgur.com/MhV6Tnxl.jpg

[bangerjim]

Some controllers will also accept Pt RTD's (resistance temperature dectector). They are nommally 100 or 1000 ohms and have 3 (and sometimes 4) wires. They vary a precise amount around a reference temperature. They are far more accurate than a standard t/c. The 3rd wire is used for temperature compensation over distances. But they are not normally used at elevated temps like we us, but are good to 932F. And cost a lot more than those cheeeeepo T/C things guys on here are always getting from China. But you do not need T/C extension wire between the element and the controller or isothermic connectors.

You can program quality controllers for either RTD or T/C inputs. Most of the industrial controllers I sell are RTD inputs for higher quality and accuracy. And RTD's and T'C's are always mounted in a thermwell.

A Type K is the best T/C for the range we use due to higher output than a J. And R's and S's are way too expensive because they use Pt....a LOT of it! One wire is solid Pt.

If you have a controller set for RTD input and you hook a T/C up to it, you will normally get an error because the T/C looks like a dead short (which it techniclaly is) to the circuit that is looking for either 100 or 1000 ohms. Check all that out.

Check out the documentation that came with your controller for info.

Oh.......BTW..........I do this stuff for a living. But with a 52V output from your controller to the SSR..........sounds like you have a BAD one there, my friend.

bangerjim

[Grump]

Just a reminder, that monotype you mentioned has a far lost melt point than most common booking alloys.

[leadman]

Looking at the wiring schematic on your pid it looks like it is setup for a relay or an ssr. You have the ssr hooked up to the relay terminals 3 & 4 and this will not work. Need to hook the ssr up to 11 & 12.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Have you read the manual about manually setting up the parameters ? (other than parameters P,I, and D).

I asked a similar question (on one of your other threads) 4 days ago...and got no response.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?282525-Mypin-Ta4-PID-Exceeds-Set-Temp-Lee-Pot-Set-to-Low-or-High&p=3308325&viewfull=1#post3308325

Do you have a manual ?

[psychbiker]

Have you read the manual about manually setting up the parameters ? (other than parameters P,I, and D).

I asked a similar question (on one of your other threads) 4 days ago...and got no response.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?282525-Mypin-Ta4-PID-Exceeds-Set-Temp-Lee-Pot-Set-to-Low-or-High&p=3308325&viewfull=1#post3308325

Do you have a manual ?

I have the manual and it's terrible. I followed it. States to have "D" turned off which many say dont do. I've followed the manual from the Jconn built boxes which is more in depth. Believe my PID is bad. Did a replacement through Amazon, new one arrives tomorrow. I'll see if that one works.

Checked and re-checked my wiring, all is good. I may just re-wire everything to play it safe.

[Mike W1]

Most, if not all, have a label right on the PID that shows just what terminals are what. Make a note of those before you install the new PID. And the model no. is also useful.

Just did a quick search on Amazon. If you got a TA4-RNR that looks to be a relay output and not a SSR output. Chances are you can modify something and make it SSR output but that would seem to be a pain to do were it me.

[bangerjim]

To make a relay-only controller work with your SSR, you will have to "wet" the relay circuit with a DC voltage wall wort transformer of the correct voltage for the SSR.

REAL industrial controllers have internal power supplies to do that with 5 or 24vdc. These el-cheapo ones do not seem to have all the bells and whistles.

banger

[cold1]

Oh.......BTW..........I do this stuff for a living. But with a 52V output from your controller to the SSR..........sounds like you have a BAD one there, my friend.

bangerjim

Bet since its a cheaper PID, it has an unfiltered DC out. He was measuring AC ripple.

[cold1]

The output light was on when I read 127 volts.

The meter was measuring AC, however, my dad stopped by, laughed and showed me the meter needed to be on DC for the input side of the ssr.

With the negative on -4 ssr and positive on +3 I get 22 volts dc. With negative on -4 ssr and positive on #4 PID I get 22 volts dc.

Not it sure if this helps at all.

What would happen if I switched -4 and +3 of the ssr? If I remove +3 on the ssr (which goes to terminal 4 on the PID) the lamp light goes out. You simulated the PID contacts opening Stopping control signal power flow



I think that you dont have the PID programed correctly.

[John Boy]

You don't need a PID unless you are casting uber consistent rifle bullets.
Goodsteel many do and some don't use a PID to cast uber consistent bullets.
It's really simple:
* Bring the mold and melt up to temperature without the PID or a thermometer, so
* When with a 5 second pour and the sprue puddle frosts in 5-7 seconds (as mentioned)
* Cut the sprue and continue the casting rhythm
Keeping an eye on the pot dial (without a thermostat) helps too!
I cast 22LR to 50-70's without a PID and my Bell Curves are within 0.5grs. Screw up your rhythm or not watch the seconds to frost and the Bell Curve numbers will increase!

[psychbiker]

I think that you dont have the PID programed correctly.

Followed several posts and manuals. I can't use settings from different makes of PIDs. Not many step by step mypin ta4 PID tutorials and the instructions are terrible and over simplified.

I have the menu memorized by now and have tried everything. It's just constantly sending power. Wiring has been checked several times and verified with other members' wired PIDs.

New PID comes tomorrow. I'll wait and try it Thursday after I hook it all up.

[bangerjim]

Just triple check your wiring B4 hooking the new one up!!!! Those el-cheep controllers have no built-in protections for reverse polarity or over voltage problems like the real industrial ones have.

banger

[John Guedry]

This tells me one thing "I don't need/want no PID".

[gray wolf]

new egg thermometer in pot

125* over liquidized

heat mold to proper warm up temp

Cast bullets

[gwpercle]

This tells me one thing "I don't need/want no PID".
John, I'm going to have to agree with you 100%. Cast iron pot on the gas range served me for years, still don't have a thermometer and don't even want to think about no PID.
When the electricty goes out, I can still cast boolits. PID's are dead in the water.
Gary

[bangerjim]

Next thing...........those cheap HF solar panel kits powering those cheap PID's on lead pots! OMG! But 800 watts IS do-able.

[bhn22]

This tells me one thing "I don't need/want no PID".

Or anything electrical or mechanical? One PID issue on this board is probably less than 1/10th of one percent of all the PIDs being used by board members. It's simply a high-grade external thermostat for an electrical lead pot. Homestly, practically anybody here could also cast over propane or a Coleman stove. We use the electric pots to reduce the effects of a very important variable in casting.

[lightman]

Well, I still want one. Its probably going to be one of my winter projects. I'm just not wild about anything made in china. And not happy that everything seems to be.

[bhn22]

I was hesitant too, at first. The only reason I built mine is because my Lyman pots thermostat went out, and it was cheaper and quicker than sending my pot to Lyman for repairs. Now I plan to build a second for use with Cerakoting and Duracoating, and some powdercoating.

[DrCaveman]

Op, id love to see some good boolit pics. You have received plenty of advice by now how to achieve that, and it is without the PID. This forum is about casting boolits first and foremost, right?

I do appreciate the electronic advice offered in this thread, and the usefulness it represents, but hey, it is all about getting a decent boolit, right? If the goal is simply to succeed at an electrical project, then this subforum may not be the appropriate place for the discussion.

Please, show us the results of these wiring/component suggestions on the boolits cast! Or, just cast the normal way

[robg]

if the sprue don't harden in a few seconds your pots too hot.if the boolits don't fill out molds are not hot enough.keep it simple till you get the basics right,then complicate things as much as you want.

[bhn22]

If the goal is simply to succeed at an electrical project, then this subforum may not be the appropriate place for the discussion.

Well, I feel the OPs on topic. There are other boards he could have asked his questions on, including "Popular Mechanics" but since he got the idea of a PID on these boards, I would have asked for help here too, since the most experience with this particular application lies here.

[lightman]

It seems like Psychbiker is getting beat up on a little, but I like how most are trying to help. I feel your pain, Bro, hang in there and Good Luck! It's prolly going to be my turn soon!

[psychbiker]

Op, id love to see some good boolit pics. You have received plenty of advice by now how to achieve that, and it is without the PID. This forum is about casting boolits first and foremost, right?

I do appreciate the electronic advice offered in this thread, and the usefulness it represents, but hey, it is all about getting a decent boolit, right? If the goal is simply to succeed at an electrical project, then this subforum may not be the appropriate place for the discussion.

Please, show us the results of these wiring/component suggestions on the boolits cast! Or, just cast the normal way

Thanks Doc for the reply [smilie=s:

Troubleshooting a PID for casting bullets I discovered on a casting bullet site, pretty sure I'm in the right place. :)

Here are what I've made so far. 20lbs of 180gr 40, 198gr 30cal and a few 155gr 30cal.

http://i.imgur.com/TUR0M8ll.jpg

I swapped PID's and followed Leadmonkey's wiring diagram. Cleaned up some crimps and used a a pair of twist locks to T off the AC power (instead directly to the PID then to SSR) and go to the SSR. It passed the light bulb test! Think a combo of bad PID and my dad rushing the wiring. He'll be stoked when I tell him I fixed his wiring and it worked :bigsmyl2:

Gonna add a 20amp fuse to protect the PID now and cast later this afternoon with it.

[OuchHot!]

You should have told us you let your dad do the wiring. That was your problem right there.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Well that's great news...the boolits look very good as well.

[rsrocket1]

This tells me one thing "I don't need/want no PID".

...and I don't want no gun neither, not if it's gonna go an' shoot me in the foot!
:bigsmyl2: