ohland
07-08-2015, 08:44 AM
This was put out by the Marlin Corp. References to the Ideal tools. One thing I did not know (among many..)
"The Ideal special cover is made so that it will fit any size hole, and the pot will hang down close to the fire, so there is no tipping over of metal, and the space around the pot is closed so that there is no interference with the draft, which can be regulated so as to keep the metal at the proper heat."
NOTE: The accepted modern way to get a recalcitrant boolit to drop is by tapping the hinge of the handles, NOT on the mould... Good reason, if the blocks are apart, beating on a block half will put torque on the pivot pins.
NO NO NO NO
"If bullet does not drop readily from the mould, open the mould wide, holding it with the bullet downward, and lightly tap on the lower bottom inside face of the half in which the bullet remains."
NO NO NO NO
Apologies for the paragraphs, but the original has HUGE blocks of text.
RELOADING RIFLE SHELLS
The Outdoorsman's Handbook, 5th Ed, Henry S. Watson and CPT Paul Curtis, The Angler’s Guide Company, 1920, 25 E 45th St, New York
https://books.google.com/books?id=Lr1DAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA117&dq=guncrank&hl=en&sa=X&ei=fxSdVfDpL8H2sAXorJngBQ&ved=0CCAQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=guncrank&f=false
RELOADING RIFLE SHELLS pgs 107-112
Marlin Arms Corporation
The first great secret in the success of reloading shells is the preservation and taking care of them after discharge. We desire to impress it upon the minds of all that to reload properly the shells should be just as clean as when they were first made, and it is easy to keep them so if cared for soon after they are discharged, but if allowed to corrode they can never be put in as good condition. Tools have been returned to us as no good, and samples of cartridges that were loaded with them sent us.
Upon investigation we find the bullet has not a particle of lubrication in the grooves, and the inside of the shell is coated with a dry bluish corrosion about one hundredth of an inch thick, the walls of the shells have been weakened, and if there was not a particle of powder in them the bullet could not be forced into such shells without bending, as they are not strong enough to stand the pressure.
The first operation after firing is to remove the old primer as soon as possible if black powder is being used, as the residuum is then soft and will wash off easily and prevent the corrosive action on the metal. Stop it before it begins is the better way. An old oyster-can at the range, or a bottle with a nozzle large enough for the shells to drop into, will be found convenient and handy any where. When you get home wash them thoroughly in hot soap suds or soda water, and lastly rinse thoroughly in clean boiling water, so they will dry by their own heat when taken out; be sure however that they are perfectly dry before you put them away, for if there is any moisture in the pockets your labor has been in vain.
Don’t do as some we have known, put them into a hot oven and leave them long enough to anneal, for if a shell becomes too soft, even if it is clean, you will be apt to have discouraging results in loading, for the walls of the shell must be strong enough to resist the pressure of forcing the bullet in, also packing the powder as well as crimping the end of the shell. All of this is a downward pressure, which the shells must stand, or to use an expressive word squat, and the loading tool is no good (so say they). Shells will sometimes become annealed after long use. We have occasionally known them to be over annealed at the manufactory, but the tools come in for the blessings. One word more about corrosion and we will quit on that subject.
Black powder corrosion inside of a shell of 50 grains’ capacity will displace 5 grains of powder, and it will make a bullet fit tight enough to expand the muzzle of the shell, so that it will not enter the chamber. The action of this corrosion on black powder will moisten and destroy it; therefore, the first requirement for; good work is clean shells.
When about to reload, first open the mouth of the shell so that the bullet will enter without scraping or cutting it. The beginner generally proceeds to force the bullet into the contracted muzzle of the shell, and the consequence is the shaving off of one side of the bullet, or the squeezing of the lead over the shell and distorting it, and making about as bad a looking cartridge as one could imagine, suggestive of inaccuracy, and imperfect loading implements, which he proceeds to condemn at once, when the whole trouble is in himself. The mouth of the shell must be opened so as to admit the base of the bullet. After opening the mouth of the shell, comes the operation of recapping.
For the proper primers to be used in the various shells when using black, high or low pressure smokeless powders see pages of reloading handbook. In seating the primer, be sure it is at the bottom of the pocket in the shell, as this will secure certain fire. Otherwise it will act as a cushion under the firing pin and may not explode. Be sure to have the primer below the surface of the head, for if it is not it may cause premature explosion by interfering with the action of the arm.
The shells are now ready for the charge of powder. The advice given on the cartridge box is good, and should be followed.
RESIZING EXPANDED SHELLS
To resize shells the whole length, use a shell resizing tool. First, he sure to have the shells thoroughly clean inside and out side, also see that the old crimp at the muzzle of the shell has been opened fully. Have the die perfectly clean and free from rust, and lubricate the inside by passing through it a slightly oiled rag, wipe the shells over the entire length with same. Do not use too much oil for it will prevent the escape of air, which if imprisoned between the muzzle and the body of a bottle-necked shell will crinkle it at the neck. The die should rest on an anvil or level solid block of wood and the shell should be driven in to the head. Never strike the head of the shell with a hammer or other metallic instruments. Use a piece of hard wood about as large around as a broomstick and about five inches in length; have one end perfectly flat and at right angles with the length, rest the flat end squarely on the head of the shell, hold the stick up perpendicular and be sure to drive straight. Do not hold it or hit on an angle, as it may bend the shell. When driven squarely into the die, up to the head, drive the shell out of the die with the punch. The uniformity of results will depend largely upon the uniformity of conditions.
Variations of the thickness of the metal at the muzzle of the shell, also the variations in the temper of the shell, hard or soft, will have to be taken into consideration. If the metal varies .001 of an inch in thickness or thinness at the muzzle of a shell, the ball size will be of course .002 of an inch larger or smaller, as the case may be, or, if shells are soft, they will not spring back as much as the harder ones, when with drawn from the die; this, of course, will leave the ball size so much smaller and the bullets may fit too snugly and vice versa, which troubles may be credited to the fault of the tool.
We have received letters from reloaders stating that they had two lots of shells of two different manufacturers and that they both expanded when shot, and, when resized in the same die, one kind would be all right and bullets fit snugly and properly, while in the other kind the bullets were loose in the shell, for reasons above described. We would remark also that one lot of shells will differ from another, though of the same manufacture. Cause and effect enter into all things throughout the universe and perfection is not obtained in any thing made by man.
Never drive a dirty or dry shell into a dirty or dry die, for dry brass driven into dry steel will weld them together firmly; the brass will freeze to the inside of the die, spoiling both, just the same as lead will adhere to a rifle barrel if not properly lubricated. Do not think the die is too small because a new or expanded shell will not go in easily, because, as before stated, they spring back when coming from the die, and the new shell cannot be forced by hand back into the die that made it. Nothing but solid headed shells should be used, for the light shells are not strong enough to stand the driving in and out from the die.
CRIMPING RIFLE AND PISTOL SHELLS
Crimping the shell is required to prevent the possibility of bullets working lose and getting out while passing through the mechanism of some repeating rifles; then again the crimp is necessary in other cases to prevent the bullet from being forced down into the shell, which would interfere with the action of some arms.
Revolvers require the bullets to be firmly/crimped in, for if they jump forward in the unused chambers at the time of discharge, on account of the recoil, it will lock the cylinder so it cannot be operated; so also will it lock the mechanism of some repeating rifles. For these various reasons shells are crimped.
The uniformity of the crimp on a reloaded cartridge depends on the uniformity of the length of the shell.
THE CASTING OF BULLETS
The casting of bullets requires a little time and patience. You cannot take an old iron spoon and hold it over the fire and as soon as the metal liquefies, or can be poured, spill it into a cold mould, and get good results; for instead of a full bullet, you will simply get a shriveled and wrinkled lump of lead. The first requirement is a small iron kettle. The Ideal Melting Pot is made for this purpose and will hold about ten pounds of metal; such a body will hold the heat at a more even temperature, which is desirable. There should be a regular steady fire to keep it at the proper temper, not red-hot one minute and so cold the next that it will not flow. In every well-regulated house there is a kitchen stove. The Ideal special cover is made so that it will fit any size hole, and the pot will hang down close to the fire, so there is no tipping over of metal, and the space around the pot is closed so that there is no interference with the draft, which can be regulated so as to keep the metal at the proper heat. A kerosene or gas stove can be used, but we prefer the old kitchen stove to any other. The next thing desired is the Ideal Dipper. To the novice these three things, Dipper, Pot, and Cover, may seem of no particular value.
We would, however, impress him with the fact, that the thought is a mistake. They are very essential in the casting of bullets. We never produced anything for the riflemen who desire to make their own bullets that has been received with such favor. It is impossible to get as good a bullet without them as you can by their use, and they cost but fifty cents each. In using the dipper, you should no! Pour the metal into the mould, the nozzle is turned spherical and will fit the pouring hole of any mould.
When ready to run the bullets, raise the dipper nearly full from the melting pot, hold the same over the pot and connect the mould to the nozzle, then turn the dipper, with the mould connected, slowly to a vertical position (see cut), and the weight of metal in the dipper above the mould will drive out the air and fill out the mould perfectly, assuring good, full, smooth bullets without the spilling of a particle of metal, making it a pleasure to cast them, instead of the old-fashioned swear time.
New moulds will not cast good bullets until they have been used long enough to become oxidized. We have had moulds returned because they would not cast good bullets, and to look at them you would never know that they had been used at all, the mould or metal put in them never having been hot enough. Have metal and moulds very hot, does not seem to convey the requirement to all, for ‘some think them hot enough as soon as they will burn the fingers. To be more explicit, we would say that
THE LEAD AND MOULDS SHOULD BE KEPT AT A TEMPERATURE THAT WILL REQUIRE A FEW SECONDS FOR THE LEAD IN THE POURING HOLE TO SOLIDIFY AFTER THE NOZZLE HAS BEEN SEPARATED FROM THE MOULD.
This is the true test, and while this temperature is maintained the bullets will be cast perfect. A small percentage of tin with pure lead will make the metal flow better and will produce a harder bullet.
About one part tin to forty of lead will make a good mixture for the average bullet. If a harder bullet is desired, add more tin; one part tin to sixteen of lead will be found hard enough for the hardest bullet except in the .25 and .30 calibers which have quick twists; but this must be decided by the shooter himself. Tin referred to is block tin, not sheet tin. It can be had of the hardware dealer. If not handy, use common solder, which is half tin and half lead. As soon as the lead is melted, add the tin.
Drop in the pot a piece of rosin, beeswax, or tallow the size of a hazelnut, and stir rapidly with the dipper; this will flux the metal and cause it to flow better. If too much smoke arises, drop a lighted match and burn it off, then skim it off with the dipper. Keep the surface of the metal clear and the dipper clean. Keep the dipper in the hot metal when not pouring, for it must be kept as hot as the metal, which otherwise will be chilled, and stop up the nozzle. The metal should be hot enough to flow freely, but never red-hot, as a red-heat oxidizes the lead rapidly, forming much dross, which hardens and deteriorates the metal.
Turn the mould and dipper slowly, coming to vertical position only when the mould is full, and hold the dipper connected to the mould for an instant, so that the shrunk bullet may draw the metal from the dipper; for, if separated too quickly, there may be a shrink hole at the base.
Those using the Cylindrical mould may find an indentation caused by imprisoned air on the side of the point where the former punch connects; pouring the metal slowly, as stated above, will overcome this. Do not be afraid to put a little oil on the joint of a mould and on the face of it also; it is a good plan to do this while hot before putting it away after using. Do not leave the joint dry like an old pair of fire tongs, for they cannot work smoothly when left in that condition. A little oil in the mould may cause a few bullets to be imperfect by sputtering, but it will soon get over that and be the better for it. Sometimes the metal may solder to the inside of the pouring hole on the bullet mould cut-off, or on the nozzle of the dipper. An occasional touch of the nozzle to a piece of tallow or beeswax will obviate this.
Never strike the mould with a hammer or other metallic substance for it will peen or stretch the side that is hit and make the bullet out of round. Use a billet of wood to strike the cut-off, or to eject the bullet. If bullet does not drop readily from the mould, open the mould wide, holding it with the bullet downward, and lightly tap on the lower bottom inside face of the half in which the bullet remains. This will be found much better than striking it on the out side, as it drives the mould away from the bullet, while striking it on the outside drives it against the bullet, and sometimes will make it stick more firmly. Never attempt to pry bullets out of a mould. It is impossible to use any metal across the inner sharp edge of a mould without injuring it, the slightest indentation on the edge of a mould will cause a bullet to stick, and the only way to get out any indentation is to have it recherried; the cherry should be the last and only instrument of metal that is used in the mould.
Round bullets are more apt to stick in the mould than others on account of being lighter in weight and being held by almost a complete half-circle in the mould. Remember the slightest dent on the edge of a mould will cause the bullet to stick very fast. Hot bullets should not be dropped on a pine board, for they will absorb the rosin, neither should they be allowed to drop on other hard substance, for it will dent them; an old woolen cloth is good. As before stated, moulds must be hot to do good work, and whether the handles be of wood or metal, they will be come uncomfortably hot for the hands; when so, dip the handles in a pail of water up to the joint. This will not interfere with the running of bullets whether the handles be of wood or metal, and will add much to the comfort of the operator. Never heat a mould by immersing it in the hot metal, for slag will burn on it and good bullets cannot be cast. If a new mould be fitted closely so air may not escape, stick a very thin strip of paper on the inside face of one side and let it remain there.
THE LUBRICATION 0F BULLETS
There are many recipes for lubrication; almost every shooter has one of his own. The following mixtures will, however, be found good: Beeswax and common cylinder oil, three parts wax to two of oil. Also beef tallow with enough vaseline to soften it as desired, or pure vaseline with enough paraffine to harden it as required. Japan wax with sperm oil enough to soften it is also excellent. Never use fat or oils that have been salted or that have acids mixed with them, for they will rust or pit the barrel.
To lubricate your bullets, dip them into the metal lubricant, covering all of the grooves, and set-them on a board to cool. When cool, remove the surplus grease by forcing the bullets up through a tube a trifle above the size of the bullets. A shell with the muzzle the right size and the head out will be found as handy as anything and can be readily made by yourself. Shove the tube or “kake kutter" over the bullets as they stand on the board, each one pressing the others up through the tube.
MARLIN ARMS CORP.
"The Ideal special cover is made so that it will fit any size hole, and the pot will hang down close to the fire, so there is no tipping over of metal, and the space around the pot is closed so that there is no interference with the draft, which can be regulated so as to keep the metal at the proper heat."
NOTE: The accepted modern way to get a recalcitrant boolit to drop is by tapping the hinge of the handles, NOT on the mould... Good reason, if the blocks are apart, beating on a block half will put torque on the pivot pins.
NO NO NO NO
"If bullet does not drop readily from the mould, open the mould wide, holding it with the bullet downward, and lightly tap on the lower bottom inside face of the half in which the bullet remains."
NO NO NO NO
Apologies for the paragraphs, but the original has HUGE blocks of text.
RELOADING RIFLE SHELLS
The Outdoorsman's Handbook, 5th Ed, Henry S. Watson and CPT Paul Curtis, The Angler’s Guide Company, 1920, 25 E 45th St, New York
https://books.google.com/books?id=Lr1DAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA117&dq=guncrank&hl=en&sa=X&ei=fxSdVfDpL8H2sAXorJngBQ&ved=0CCAQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=guncrank&f=false
RELOADING RIFLE SHELLS pgs 107-112
Marlin Arms Corporation
The first great secret in the success of reloading shells is the preservation and taking care of them after discharge. We desire to impress it upon the minds of all that to reload properly the shells should be just as clean as when they were first made, and it is easy to keep them so if cared for soon after they are discharged, but if allowed to corrode they can never be put in as good condition. Tools have been returned to us as no good, and samples of cartridges that were loaded with them sent us.
Upon investigation we find the bullet has not a particle of lubrication in the grooves, and the inside of the shell is coated with a dry bluish corrosion about one hundredth of an inch thick, the walls of the shells have been weakened, and if there was not a particle of powder in them the bullet could not be forced into such shells without bending, as they are not strong enough to stand the pressure.
The first operation after firing is to remove the old primer as soon as possible if black powder is being used, as the residuum is then soft and will wash off easily and prevent the corrosive action on the metal. Stop it before it begins is the better way. An old oyster-can at the range, or a bottle with a nozzle large enough for the shells to drop into, will be found convenient and handy any where. When you get home wash them thoroughly in hot soap suds or soda water, and lastly rinse thoroughly in clean boiling water, so they will dry by their own heat when taken out; be sure however that they are perfectly dry before you put them away, for if there is any moisture in the pockets your labor has been in vain.
Don’t do as some we have known, put them into a hot oven and leave them long enough to anneal, for if a shell becomes too soft, even if it is clean, you will be apt to have discouraging results in loading, for the walls of the shell must be strong enough to resist the pressure of forcing the bullet in, also packing the powder as well as crimping the end of the shell. All of this is a downward pressure, which the shells must stand, or to use an expressive word squat, and the loading tool is no good (so say they). Shells will sometimes become annealed after long use. We have occasionally known them to be over annealed at the manufactory, but the tools come in for the blessings. One word more about corrosion and we will quit on that subject.
Black powder corrosion inside of a shell of 50 grains’ capacity will displace 5 grains of powder, and it will make a bullet fit tight enough to expand the muzzle of the shell, so that it will not enter the chamber. The action of this corrosion on black powder will moisten and destroy it; therefore, the first requirement for; good work is clean shells.
When about to reload, first open the mouth of the shell so that the bullet will enter without scraping or cutting it. The beginner generally proceeds to force the bullet into the contracted muzzle of the shell, and the consequence is the shaving off of one side of the bullet, or the squeezing of the lead over the shell and distorting it, and making about as bad a looking cartridge as one could imagine, suggestive of inaccuracy, and imperfect loading implements, which he proceeds to condemn at once, when the whole trouble is in himself. The mouth of the shell must be opened so as to admit the base of the bullet. After opening the mouth of the shell, comes the operation of recapping.
For the proper primers to be used in the various shells when using black, high or low pressure smokeless powders see pages of reloading handbook. In seating the primer, be sure it is at the bottom of the pocket in the shell, as this will secure certain fire. Otherwise it will act as a cushion under the firing pin and may not explode. Be sure to have the primer below the surface of the head, for if it is not it may cause premature explosion by interfering with the action of the arm.
The shells are now ready for the charge of powder. The advice given on the cartridge box is good, and should be followed.
RESIZING EXPANDED SHELLS
To resize shells the whole length, use a shell resizing tool. First, he sure to have the shells thoroughly clean inside and out side, also see that the old crimp at the muzzle of the shell has been opened fully. Have the die perfectly clean and free from rust, and lubricate the inside by passing through it a slightly oiled rag, wipe the shells over the entire length with same. Do not use too much oil for it will prevent the escape of air, which if imprisoned between the muzzle and the body of a bottle-necked shell will crinkle it at the neck. The die should rest on an anvil or level solid block of wood and the shell should be driven in to the head. Never strike the head of the shell with a hammer or other metallic instruments. Use a piece of hard wood about as large around as a broomstick and about five inches in length; have one end perfectly flat and at right angles with the length, rest the flat end squarely on the head of the shell, hold the stick up perpendicular and be sure to drive straight. Do not hold it or hit on an angle, as it may bend the shell. When driven squarely into the die, up to the head, drive the shell out of the die with the punch. The uniformity of results will depend largely upon the uniformity of conditions.
Variations of the thickness of the metal at the muzzle of the shell, also the variations in the temper of the shell, hard or soft, will have to be taken into consideration. If the metal varies .001 of an inch in thickness or thinness at the muzzle of a shell, the ball size will be of course .002 of an inch larger or smaller, as the case may be, or, if shells are soft, they will not spring back as much as the harder ones, when with drawn from the die; this, of course, will leave the ball size so much smaller and the bullets may fit too snugly and vice versa, which troubles may be credited to the fault of the tool.
We have received letters from reloaders stating that they had two lots of shells of two different manufacturers and that they both expanded when shot, and, when resized in the same die, one kind would be all right and bullets fit snugly and properly, while in the other kind the bullets were loose in the shell, for reasons above described. We would remark also that one lot of shells will differ from another, though of the same manufacture. Cause and effect enter into all things throughout the universe and perfection is not obtained in any thing made by man.
Never drive a dirty or dry shell into a dirty or dry die, for dry brass driven into dry steel will weld them together firmly; the brass will freeze to the inside of the die, spoiling both, just the same as lead will adhere to a rifle barrel if not properly lubricated. Do not think the die is too small because a new or expanded shell will not go in easily, because, as before stated, they spring back when coming from the die, and the new shell cannot be forced by hand back into the die that made it. Nothing but solid headed shells should be used, for the light shells are not strong enough to stand the driving in and out from the die.
CRIMPING RIFLE AND PISTOL SHELLS
Crimping the shell is required to prevent the possibility of bullets working lose and getting out while passing through the mechanism of some repeating rifles; then again the crimp is necessary in other cases to prevent the bullet from being forced down into the shell, which would interfere with the action of some arms.
Revolvers require the bullets to be firmly/crimped in, for if they jump forward in the unused chambers at the time of discharge, on account of the recoil, it will lock the cylinder so it cannot be operated; so also will it lock the mechanism of some repeating rifles. For these various reasons shells are crimped.
The uniformity of the crimp on a reloaded cartridge depends on the uniformity of the length of the shell.
THE CASTING OF BULLETS
The casting of bullets requires a little time and patience. You cannot take an old iron spoon and hold it over the fire and as soon as the metal liquefies, or can be poured, spill it into a cold mould, and get good results; for instead of a full bullet, you will simply get a shriveled and wrinkled lump of lead. The first requirement is a small iron kettle. The Ideal Melting Pot is made for this purpose and will hold about ten pounds of metal; such a body will hold the heat at a more even temperature, which is desirable. There should be a regular steady fire to keep it at the proper temper, not red-hot one minute and so cold the next that it will not flow. In every well-regulated house there is a kitchen stove. The Ideal special cover is made so that it will fit any size hole, and the pot will hang down close to the fire, so there is no tipping over of metal, and the space around the pot is closed so that there is no interference with the draft, which can be regulated so as to keep the metal at the proper heat. A kerosene or gas stove can be used, but we prefer the old kitchen stove to any other. The next thing desired is the Ideal Dipper. To the novice these three things, Dipper, Pot, and Cover, may seem of no particular value.
We would, however, impress him with the fact, that the thought is a mistake. They are very essential in the casting of bullets. We never produced anything for the riflemen who desire to make their own bullets that has been received with such favor. It is impossible to get as good a bullet without them as you can by their use, and they cost but fifty cents each. In using the dipper, you should no! Pour the metal into the mould, the nozzle is turned spherical and will fit the pouring hole of any mould.
When ready to run the bullets, raise the dipper nearly full from the melting pot, hold the same over the pot and connect the mould to the nozzle, then turn the dipper, with the mould connected, slowly to a vertical position (see cut), and the weight of metal in the dipper above the mould will drive out the air and fill out the mould perfectly, assuring good, full, smooth bullets without the spilling of a particle of metal, making it a pleasure to cast them, instead of the old-fashioned swear time.
New moulds will not cast good bullets until they have been used long enough to become oxidized. We have had moulds returned because they would not cast good bullets, and to look at them you would never know that they had been used at all, the mould or metal put in them never having been hot enough. Have metal and moulds very hot, does not seem to convey the requirement to all, for ‘some think them hot enough as soon as they will burn the fingers. To be more explicit, we would say that
THE LEAD AND MOULDS SHOULD BE KEPT AT A TEMPERATURE THAT WILL REQUIRE A FEW SECONDS FOR THE LEAD IN THE POURING HOLE TO SOLIDIFY AFTER THE NOZZLE HAS BEEN SEPARATED FROM THE MOULD.
This is the true test, and while this temperature is maintained the bullets will be cast perfect. A small percentage of tin with pure lead will make the metal flow better and will produce a harder bullet.
About one part tin to forty of lead will make a good mixture for the average bullet. If a harder bullet is desired, add more tin; one part tin to sixteen of lead will be found hard enough for the hardest bullet except in the .25 and .30 calibers which have quick twists; but this must be decided by the shooter himself. Tin referred to is block tin, not sheet tin. It can be had of the hardware dealer. If not handy, use common solder, which is half tin and half lead. As soon as the lead is melted, add the tin.
Drop in the pot a piece of rosin, beeswax, or tallow the size of a hazelnut, and stir rapidly with the dipper; this will flux the metal and cause it to flow better. If too much smoke arises, drop a lighted match and burn it off, then skim it off with the dipper. Keep the surface of the metal clear and the dipper clean. Keep the dipper in the hot metal when not pouring, for it must be kept as hot as the metal, which otherwise will be chilled, and stop up the nozzle. The metal should be hot enough to flow freely, but never red-hot, as a red-heat oxidizes the lead rapidly, forming much dross, which hardens and deteriorates the metal.
Turn the mould and dipper slowly, coming to vertical position only when the mould is full, and hold the dipper connected to the mould for an instant, so that the shrunk bullet may draw the metal from the dipper; for, if separated too quickly, there may be a shrink hole at the base.
Those using the Cylindrical mould may find an indentation caused by imprisoned air on the side of the point where the former punch connects; pouring the metal slowly, as stated above, will overcome this. Do not be afraid to put a little oil on the joint of a mould and on the face of it also; it is a good plan to do this while hot before putting it away after using. Do not leave the joint dry like an old pair of fire tongs, for they cannot work smoothly when left in that condition. A little oil in the mould may cause a few bullets to be imperfect by sputtering, but it will soon get over that and be the better for it. Sometimes the metal may solder to the inside of the pouring hole on the bullet mould cut-off, or on the nozzle of the dipper. An occasional touch of the nozzle to a piece of tallow or beeswax will obviate this.
Never strike the mould with a hammer or other metallic substance for it will peen or stretch the side that is hit and make the bullet out of round. Use a billet of wood to strike the cut-off, or to eject the bullet. If bullet does not drop readily from the mould, open the mould wide, holding it with the bullet downward, and lightly tap on the lower bottom inside face of the half in which the bullet remains. This will be found much better than striking it on the out side, as it drives the mould away from the bullet, while striking it on the outside drives it against the bullet, and sometimes will make it stick more firmly. Never attempt to pry bullets out of a mould. It is impossible to use any metal across the inner sharp edge of a mould without injuring it, the slightest indentation on the edge of a mould will cause a bullet to stick, and the only way to get out any indentation is to have it recherried; the cherry should be the last and only instrument of metal that is used in the mould.
Round bullets are more apt to stick in the mould than others on account of being lighter in weight and being held by almost a complete half-circle in the mould. Remember the slightest dent on the edge of a mould will cause the bullet to stick very fast. Hot bullets should not be dropped on a pine board, for they will absorb the rosin, neither should they be allowed to drop on other hard substance, for it will dent them; an old woolen cloth is good. As before stated, moulds must be hot to do good work, and whether the handles be of wood or metal, they will be come uncomfortably hot for the hands; when so, dip the handles in a pail of water up to the joint. This will not interfere with the running of bullets whether the handles be of wood or metal, and will add much to the comfort of the operator. Never heat a mould by immersing it in the hot metal, for slag will burn on it and good bullets cannot be cast. If a new mould be fitted closely so air may not escape, stick a very thin strip of paper on the inside face of one side and let it remain there.
THE LUBRICATION 0F BULLETS
There are many recipes for lubrication; almost every shooter has one of his own. The following mixtures will, however, be found good: Beeswax and common cylinder oil, three parts wax to two of oil. Also beef tallow with enough vaseline to soften it as desired, or pure vaseline with enough paraffine to harden it as required. Japan wax with sperm oil enough to soften it is also excellent. Never use fat or oils that have been salted or that have acids mixed with them, for they will rust or pit the barrel.
To lubricate your bullets, dip them into the metal lubricant, covering all of the grooves, and set-them on a board to cool. When cool, remove the surplus grease by forcing the bullets up through a tube a trifle above the size of the bullets. A shell with the muzzle the right size and the head out will be found as handy as anything and can be readily made by yourself. Shove the tube or “kake kutter" over the bullets as they stand on the board, each one pressing the others up through the tube.
MARLIN ARMS CORP.