Question for you mechanics

[elkhuntfever]

2006 Ford 250 Super Duty with gas engine. Engine turns over fine but won't start. Tried many time the last couple days. I started the usual checks (listening for sound of fuel pump, checking fuses, checking for spark, etc.....) decided to give it a short shot of starting spray and it started right up and runs just fine. Have shut it off and it starts up again. Any ideas what might cause this? (Besides being a Ford) Second time in the last 2 weeks.

[waynem34]

Fuel line.

[s mac]

Fuel filter?

[doc1876]

Once your engine starts, it seems like it has the vacuum necessary to continue, so the fuel filter or pump I a good place to start. I knew of a Ranger with similar situation, they replaced the filter, pump, and the main computer. After changing the computer a 2nd time did it become reliable.

[abunaitoo]

Don't want to bad mouth Fords, but this happens when they start to get old.
Intermittent problems are a pain to find/fix.
I suspect something is not sending a signal to the computer to fire the injectors.
Once it starts, the signal is restored.
Could be any number of other things, but I'd start there.
Next time it won't start, check for injector signal.
If you get no signal, you'll have to see what tells the computer to fire the signal.
Then check them, and the wiring, one by one.
It's just a pain.
It could be the computer, but being expensive, it's the last thing I'd change.
Sorry can't be more help.

[JSnover]

My 2000 Explorer has been through 2 fuel pumps, same symptoms each time. Change the filter first (you should anyway) but don't be surprised if the pump is on it's last legs.

[GaryN]

How old is the gasoline? You know the stuff with ethanol goes bad pretty fast. It can turn into a gelatin mess.

[bob208]

ok something I learned the hard way the fuel filter should be changed every year on trucks that work. no longer then two years on any thing else. don't wait for it to clog up hen you will take a chance on something else going out that costs a lot more. if you have a in the tank fuel pump don't run it with less then a quarter tank of gas too much. the gas cools the pump if you let it get down and run it that way you over heat the pump.

[duckey]

Fuel filter.....when was it changed last??

[.45Cole]

I'd gander the ignition system. If you can easily start it with ether, and it will then run (albeit loby at the beginning as the cylinders just barely fire) you have a firing problem. If this was winter I would say condensation on the plugs. That still may be the case (recent fuel purchase?). Otherwise it may be the PIP, coil, or innards of distributor (if you have one). Check them in that order, as it's cheaper that way.

Bad fuel filters will cause a distinct choke back if you go say 30mph and then petal to the metal (its not getting enough fuel) If it's a fuel pump, it just won't work period (you can kick the tank in the place of the pump and usually jar it into working for a few miles the first time)

You didn't pay anything for this advice, so take it as such.

[jcren]

Fwiw, my dad's f-150 had a similar problem. After replacing the pump and filter, I played musical relays and it fired right up. New $5 relay and she was good to go.

[Plate plinker]

Fuel pump control module if the fuel pump is not running check that. I had a bad one on the 07 explorer. Relatively cheap part. Make sure the pump runs before you check that off.

[MediumCore358]

I had the IAC (idle air control) motor go on my 06 Ford, when I removed the unit and tried to start it , it roared to life temporarily letting me know that was the culprit. You could try starting your truck near full throttle but not 100% and if it try's to start that might be it. Older cars had the carb butterfly valve on the intake partly open for idle, New cars run closed with a bypass...IAC Motor! Hope that helps!

[abunaitoo]

Did you check what the fuel pressure was?????
Listening for the sound from the tank sometimes is not enough.
If it starts and runs fine after you sprayed starter fluid in it, fuel pump and filter should be good.
Did you drive it????
I'm thinking it's a bad relay someplace.

[.45Cole]

A multimeter will work for testing most sensors (usually check impedance). Abunaitoo is right about testing the pump. A normal schrader tire gauge will work for fuel pressure in a pinch: my 96 F-150 has a valve on the fuel rail.

[Czech_too]

fuel pump driver module
Just had to replace it on the '04 F150, it's located above the spare tire, of all places. This one had the metal cover cracked in half.

[6bg6ga]

2006 Ford 250 Super Duty with gas engine. Engine turns over fine but won't start. Tried many time the last couple days. I started the usual checks (listening for sound of fuel pump, checking fuses, checking for spark, etc.....) decided to give it a short shot of starting spray and it started right up and runs just fine. Have shut it off and it starts up again. Any ideas what might cause this? (Besides being a Ford) Second time in the last 2 weeks.

Do you have a check engine light on by chance?

I don't buy the it happens to old Fords comment.

Unfortunately I have had to drive a Ford company van for the last 23 years and I'm on my 4th Ford van. I wore out a 92, 2000, 2004, and I'm currently working on a 2008. I hate them period but in their defense they run. They are however hard on front ends/ball joints and steering boxes. I generally put 275K-300K on them before I get another one.

My comment is take the thing to your Ford dealer and let him check it out. This will bypass the back yard shade tree mechanics here and get your problem solved.

[HATCH]

Get a bottle of carb cleaner.
When you do get it started. spray around every vacuum line.
listen for the idle to change.
that will pinpoint a leak.

or the check valve in the fuel pump is failing.

[TXGunNut]

If you want to throw parts at it the pump and filter will be as good a place as any to start. Sensors, relays and modules are best diagnosed by folks that work on them regularly and have the diagnostic equipment to point them in the right direction. Anecdotal diagnosis is a bad idea, all you'll learn is what possibly failed on someone else's vehicle. A systematic diagnosis will tell you what's wrong with your truck. That's what you're really looking for, right?

[Boolit_Head]

Go to the fuel rail and there is a relief valve there that looks sort of like a schrader valve on your tire. Push the inside part of the valve and see if any fuel comes out. Watch your eyes though. If no fuel there you have no pressure either from a bad pump or filter. It also could be a fuel sender. I just had one that said it had a 1/4 tank of fuel when the tank was completely empty. No fuel at the fuel rail but the pump was coming on. It could not suck up anything from the tank.

[.45Cole]

Let us shade tree mechanics know in the end. We have a pot going and the winner gets another tree (to expand business of course!)

[Tackleberry41]

Seen way to many of these intermittent issues w Fords, the kind you chase your tail around and round trying to find. Replace this, then that, one truck its the fuel pump, next one a sender, another time the computer. Be one thing if it was something consistent, I worked on VWs, most of the time it was the fuel pump relay, was the first thing you messed with on a car with such issues.

[Handloader109]

Don't down Ford, there are Many more Ford trucks on the road than the other guys and I see an awful lot of Chevy Dodge and gmc trucks on the side of the road:kidding:

[abunaitoo]

Cars/trucks these days are all about the same.
Every brand has their quirks.
I've not have good luck with Fords. I don't think they like me.
An intermittent problem on any brand is a PITA. Even for a dealership.
It's easy to get into the "try this" kind of repairs. But it will cost lots of buck. Sometimes with no better results.
Engine control problems are the hardest to find and repair.
Doing it over the net is more or less a hit and miss thing.
Not what you want to hear but, I'd ask around about a who's good mechanic.
Find one that is willing to Work "with you" to solve the problem.
I'm still thinking it's a fuel problem.
Any stored codes????
Dose it have enough fuel pressure???
Are the injectors firing????
Is the cold start system working????
All the relays and sensors need to be tested.
If all seems good, it could be the computer.

[MaryB]

I have driven Fords and GMC into the ground, I have had horrible luck with anything badged Chevy... GMC Jimmy went well over 450k miles. 1 engine, 1 transmission, one driveshaft and 1 transfer case chain were the only repairs over its life. And it got hammered, we used it as our deer hunting truck. Drove a Ford Van to 350k miles too, still ran great, rusted out from under me and was unsafe to drive...

[tomme boy]

Does it even have gas in the tank???

[JSnover]

Does it even have gas in the tank???
[smilie=b:

[elkhuntfever]

When it finally quits, I will let you know the outcome. Haven't had any problems since.

[funnyjim014]

Well when it does take it to the dealer. It might cost you more per hour but they most likely will figgure it out alot faster. Make sure you WRITE DOWN A DETALED NOTE of exactly what has happened. There is nothing worse when the writer miss interpreted what the problem is and then tells the tech the wrong story

[abunaitoo]

Even the dealership is a hit and miss.
I've had many redo's from dealers repairs.
Customer refused to take it back to them, even knowing it might cost more.
Had a guy that took his great running car to replace a rear view mirror.
They talked him into and oil change and replace the leaking valve cover seal.
As he was driving home, it started knocking and smoking.
Pulled over waited a little while and went back to the dealer.
A hour later they couldn't find anything wrong.
He somehow made it home.
Had the car towed to me.
The dealer didn't change a seal that is always replaced with the valve cover gasket.
Had to take the valve cover off again to replace it.
Cost for the seal was $2.
Everything back to normal.
Told him to go back to the dealer and get his money back.
He said he'd never go back there again.
Not all mechanics at dealerships are bad. But it is a hit and miss thing.

[.45Cole]

I took a diesel Jeep to a dealer that only did Jeeps and their diesel expert couldn't track down a wierdo rattle from the engine/tranny area (after he said he couldn't find it, then blamed it on the engine cover being off). He told me he checked out everything, and guaranteed me the motor mounts weren't bad (common problem). $50 later for nothing, I finally swapped the motor mounts figuring that was the only thing it could be. :idea: As I got the first one out, it rattled (hydro mounts do this when they're toast). After replacing both mounts, not a problem. Pollard in Boulder actually charged me to lead me in the wrong direction, and really didn't do anything.

Watch out for the stealerships!

[benellinut]

Twisted wrenches for 25 years, for an engine to run you need fuel, spark, compression and timing. If you can start it with an outside fuel source (Ether) then you have bad fuel or a fuel delivery problem.

If the fuel is good it could be low or no fuel pressure or injectors not firing. The reasons for any of those can range from electrical problems due to bad wiring, bad connection, failed computer, bad relay, bad fuel pump or a simple blown fuse, did you check ALL the fuses? Low or no pressure could be due to any of the fore mentioned or blockage like a crushed line or hose or a plugged filter, if it ran OK one day and then not start the next it's probably NOT the fuel filter or a blocked line.

First, check all the fuses! Replace any and all blown fuses, crank it and see if it will start. If it doesn't, check the fuses again and see if one or more blew during the test crank, if it did you narrowed your problem.

How handy are you? Can you diagnose wiring problems? Read a digital volt meter and run tests with it? What kind of testing tools do you have? Do you have a code reader, shop manual, fuel pressure tester, digital volt meter? If not it's a hit or miss guessing game that can get expensive replacing parts that aren't bad. You may find rusted and stuck on parts that weren't bad and you spent a lot of time trying to replace them when they weren't the problem. End up breaking open a rusted fuel line to replace a fuel filter that wasn't plugged and your only going backwards.

Check the fuses, if that's not it get a manual, I subscribe online for all my repair manuals here --> https://www.alldatadiy.com/buy/index.html These are FACTORY repair manuals and alldata also include all recalls and bulletins, search for alldatadiy coupon codes, they constantly run discounts. Don't get in over your head, throw away a lot of money replacing good parts before you admit you need someone to look at it for you, sometimes you can cost yourself more problems and money trying to repair it yourself. Good luck, I hope it's a easy and inexpensive fix for you.

And here's a tip, if you end up needing a mechanic, go to a Ford dealer, they know the product and probably have an idea what's the problem is before they even bring it into the shop and that means you save money. Take it to joe blow who works on everything under the sun and he will most likely fix it, but it could take him hours or days to diagnose and he's gonna charge you for all his time. If you can sneak in the Ford shop, ask a couple of the techs if they work on the side and would be willing to take a look at it for you, most of them love to make extra coin on the side and will charge you less then if they end up working on it at the dealer and you pay the dealers shop rate. Having a couple cold beers on hand when they show up and being friendly will most likely lower what they will charge, but don't give them a twelve pack while they are working on it LoL.