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View Full Version : Resizing 7.62 X 51mm NATO Brass fired in MG or large chambers



Safeshot
06-19-2015, 01:48 AM
When trying to Resize 7.62 X 51mm NATO Brass fired in MG or other large chambers it seems like a difficult reforming effort. I have had good results by resizing the lubricated brass rifle case in a Lyman Carbide .45 Auto resizing die first, then re-lubricating and resizing it in a .308 Win. or 7.62 X 51 mm NATO resizing die. The force to accomplish the resizing in two separate operations is MUCH less than trying to resize the brass rifle case in the resizing die in one operation. Adjust the .45 Auto carbide to resize the rifle brass case just enough to match the diameter of the rifle sizing die at the location near the case head. Just one approach to make a "difficult task" a "little easier". Hope that this is of some help to someone.

Mk42gunner
06-19-2015, 02:39 AM
Makes sense that two trips into sizing dies take less effort than on trip.

I have so far avoided the problem by making sure I collected enough rifle fired brass to last me a loooong time. I did the same for 5.56 by the way.

Robert

castalott
06-19-2015, 06:39 AM
Good to know...I bought some 'once fired' 308 brass online years ago. Got to digging in it and every primer was flat as a dinner table and every case was way oversize. A rock chucker or a Dillon 450 wouldn't resize it. I tried 5 or 6 different dies. I tried RCBS, two kinds of Hornady, and Imperial Sizing die wax. Finally bought a Redding Ultramag just for this and it's not easy. Some day I'll make a jig and anneal all that brass. It will probably crack on the first firing....

Some people shouldn't reload. ... Rant off...

Frank V
06-19-2015, 10:45 AM
I have had some trouble with the bolt closing on military cases picked up at the range & resized. I've thought about going to a small base die. I use the Hornaday one shot spray on lube, it works well & gets the inside of the case neck too.

WILCO
06-19-2015, 11:00 AM
Redding Body Die 308 Winchester

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/620746/redding-body-die-308-winchester

castalott
06-19-2015, 05:58 PM
I just ordered one of those Redding die bodies..... Hope I like it as well as everyone else...

Gunor
06-19-2015, 06:31 PM
Bodies dies - I thought they just re-sized from the shoulder down.

And the MG brass I have re-sized - RCBS Big Max and Dillon Case Lube or Imperial...

376Steyr
06-19-2015, 09:14 PM
Slightly off topic: Redding Small Base dies with the separate neck bushing are the way to go if you are working with new "pull down" military cases. Pull down brass has nasty asphalt sealant on the inside of the case necks, which will gum up a standard expander ball in short order. Typical method of cleaning out the sealant uses q-tips and acetone. Using the neck bushing works only the outside of the case neck, so you can seat a bullet into the remaining sealant and let the powder gas do your cleaning for you.

osteodoc08
06-19-2015, 09:48 PM
I've used RCBS small base dies in my Lyman Turret. I coated with Dillon Case lube. I put a bunch in a 1 gallon Baggie. 10 squirts of lube, closed the bag and rolled it around a bit. Tossed it in a clean MFRB and let air dry while tossing a few times. It was noticeably a bit stiffer than say, my 223 brass fired out of my Remmy 700, but was manageable without the dies groaning. The key is to make sure all the alcohol has flashed off and the cases are well coated.

this was 7.62x51 military surplus LC brass as well as other brands such as PMC, PSD, etc.

Safeshot
06-21-2015, 01:28 AM
One other item, when sizing the .308 Win (7.62 X 51 mm NATO) cartridge case in the .45 Auto carbide sizing die, deprime the case in the same step (at the same time) with the .45 Auto carbide sizing die. This is easy and gives a nice "feel" to the de-priming function. This also makes the second step of sizing the cartridge case in the full length sizing die for the .308 Win even easier.

EDG
06-22-2015, 01:44 AM
I use a normal die to resize machinegun gun fired 30-06. My press is an old Rockchucker.

Frank V
06-22-2015, 10:27 PM
Most have no trouble sizing in regular dies, I've run onto some cases that just won't let the bolt close after full length sizing. I'm wondering if the case heads have been disformed in shooting? When I run onto one of these cases if I take it out & rechamber it it'll usually go in fine??? I've been throwing them away. I've never had a problem with factory or reloaded factory brass? I don't think it's the gun.

country gent
06-22-2015, 11:38 PM
On tough to size 308 / 7.62 nrass I have lubed with Imperial sizing die wax and used the seater die to pre size, normally I dont have any problems sizing with the imperial. I also have a 308 sizing die that is worn out and give chambering problems in my NM M1As maybe it would be a cantidate for a pre size die also.

tygar
06-26-2015, 09:01 PM
I use a Small Base X die with not much difficulty. I use a Bonanza Co=Ax but have a O Mag & a Big Max, just in case.

BAGTIC
06-26-2015, 10:07 PM
I have an old set of Hollywood full length tungsten carbide dies in both .223 and 7.52x51mm. Even with then it worked best to swage the case until it starts to get tight then back it out some and run it in again. That way I can even resize cases fired in fluted chambers.

EDG
06-27-2015, 08:04 AM
If you try a few cases and they stick the interference is usually on the shoulder not the body or head.

This is very easy to verify. Just compare a sized case with a fired case from your rifle. Check the diameters about 1/32" below the corner of the shoulder and check the head at the fattest part of the pressure ring. Use a mike and the differences will be easy to see.

When you determine that your cases are interfering at the shoulder, the head to shoulder length is longer than the chamber.

Set you die by sizing cases very slowly letting the ram dwell 3 or 4 seconds at the top of the stroke, then retract the case about 1/2" and spin the case about 120 to 180 degrees.
Size again very slowly and again let the ram dwell 3 or 4 seconds at the top.

The slow multiple sizing passes with the dwells will push the shoulder back more and give it time to take a set.
When your press is kind of wimpy it works even better.

I find that my Rockchucker stretches about .001 to .002 on the first sizing.
You can easily verify this by using a dial test indicator with your own press.
Mount the indicator on the mounting flange of the press. Put the contact on top of the die bushing or frame and size a case. You will see the press stretch using the indicator. I use a .0005 B&S Best Test for ease of viewing the deflection.

tygar
06-27-2015, 10:18 AM
The above 2 posts are absolutely correct. Forgot that I partially size, then back off, then again etc. Actually do that with any case to hard to size easily. I also turn neck sized cases 180 & do it again for match brass for a more consistent neck sizing.

zuke
06-27-2015, 12:09 PM
LEE lube used straight in LEE sizing die, set up as per instruction's

gwpercle
06-28-2015, 10:47 AM
I had some 303 British cases that must have been fired in maximum + chambers. I used my big cast iron Pacific Super Deluxe , removed the decapping rod from full length sizing die for the first pass and sized them 3/4 of the way, then finished the sizing on a second pass with the decapping rod in place and the die screwed down . I made sure they would chamber in my rifle. Two steps and a lot of good lube really helped and lubing the inside of the case neck also helped.

W.R.Buchanan
07-03-2015, 07:49 PM
I have done this with .308 cases that turned out to be MG fired. The solution is to stuff the case into the die until it gets hard to push, withdraw and do it again. Some cases took three shots others were just two.

This way you are not sizing the whole case in one pass which divides the work between the passes.

Randy

3leggedturtle
07-04-2015, 02:32 AM
I used a 444 marlin fl die with stem removed to size gi brass to fit and function in a .308 Rem 742.

303carbine
07-05-2015, 02:32 AM
I have had some 7.62 machine gun brass in the past, I have only had to run it through the small base die once, well lubed of course.

quasi
07-05-2015, 04:48 PM
I actually broke a rockchucker casting doing this about 25 years ago. I had a three foot snipe on the handle. There was no Lifetime guarantee back then.

Frank V
07-05-2015, 10:24 PM
I actually broke a rockchucker casting doing this about 25 years ago. I had a three foot snipe on the handle. There was no Lifetime guarantee back then.



Wow it takes a lot of clout to break a Rockchucker.

I am thinking about getting a small base sizing die cause I get a lot of military brass.

quasi
07-05-2015, 10:43 PM
I was using an RCBS small base sizer and RCBS lube. If I was doing it now, I would use spray Lanolin Alcohol mix. When I broke the Rockchucker, I replaced it with a C&H Heavyweight Champion (they now just call it the Champion). It was then no problem to resize the brass, and no snipe on the handle was necessary.

The brass was from Canadian C-3's that were used then by our reserves (Militia's), this is a 1919 Browning M.G. in 7.62 NATO with the headspace set loose.

Frank V
07-08-2015, 02:25 PM
I was using an RCBS small base sizer and RCBS lube. If I was doing it now, I would use spray Lanolin Alcohol mix. When I broke the Rockchucker, I replaced it with a C&H Heavyweight Champion (they now just call it the Champion). It was then no problem to resize the brass, and no snipe on the handle was necessary.

The brass was from Canadian C-3's that were used then by our reserves (Militia's), this is a 1919 Browning M.G. in 7.62 NATO with the headspace set loose.

That ought to make resizing interesting.

Smoke4320
07-08-2015, 04:14 PM
I actually broke a rockchucker casting doing this about 25 years ago. I had a three foot snipe on the handle. There was no Lifetime guarantee back then.

a 3FT http://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?id=JN.a%2b%2bT8MkOcLhfyCrVZLIJog&w=138&h=100&c=7&rs=1&qlt=90&pid=3.1&rm=2 (http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=picture+of+a+snipe&id=E311352B756422DE83190AABB558BC267222C5AA&FORM=IQFRBA) WHY :kidding::kidding:

Just Duke
07-08-2015, 05:16 PM
I have had some 7.62 machine gun brass in the past, I have only had to run it through the small base die once, well lubed of course.

Redding Dies. Anneal first.

just bill
07-12-2015, 08:58 PM
Just for giggles, has any body thought about innovated technology belted magnum collet resizer. This may be a little abstract, but how much bulge are we talking about?

Just Duke
07-12-2015, 09:28 PM
Just for giggles, has any body thought about innovated technology belted magnum collet resizer. This may be a little abstract, but how much bulge are we talking about?

I couldn't have loaded magnums with out it. It has a go no-go gauge on top.

tygar
07-12-2015, 10:03 PM
I have spent several hours each day for the past week or 2 working on several hundred magnum brass from 338 to 450 Watts & "all" have been belt sized with the IT sizer as part of the routine. Doubles or triples case life.

jrap
07-26-2015, 11:23 AM
When i had a big boss 2 it was no problem to just use the .308 die with my rcbs partner it is extremely difficult

Eddie2002
07-26-2015, 06:40 PM
I decap all my military brass in a seperate step before running it through a FL resizer. Sometimes the crimp just doesn't want to give using the decapping rod that comes with the die set. Dealing with a full crimp and a oversized case makes me wonder why I'm doing this.

Frank V
07-26-2015, 08:35 PM
Sometimes those crimped primers can be a real pain. I quit trying to size some old 1943 WRA cases because of the difficulty in knocking out the primer. Lee used to make a universal decapping punch. That might be worth a try?

Eddie2002
07-26-2015, 10:51 PM
I made my own decapping pin out of a 1/4 inch hex wrench by grinding it down into a pin on one end. Had already snapped the arm off of it so it was pretty much junk anyways. I put the case in a regular shell holder and tap on the decapping pin to pop out the primer. A little duc tape on the shaft helps center it and protects the case mouth. Got tired of snapping off pins in my RCBS dies.

Frank V
08-01-2015, 03:29 PM
I made my own decapping pin out of a 1/4 inch hex wrench by grinding it down into a pin on one end. Had already snapped the arm off of it so it was pretty much junk anyways. I put the case in a regular shell holder and tap on the decapping pin to pop out the primer. A little duc tape on the shaft helps center it and protects the case mouth. Got tired of snapping off pins in my RCBS dies.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

That sounds like a good soloution, I've broken decapping stems trying to decap military crimped in primers.

W.R.Buchanan
08-01-2015, 04:00 PM
a 3FT http://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?id=JN.a%2b%2bT8MkOcLhfyCrVZLIJog&w=138&h=100&c=7&rs=1&qlt=90&pid=3.1&rm=2 (http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=picture+of+a+snipe&id=E311352B756422DE83190AABB558BC267222C5AA&FORM=IQFRBA) WHY :kidding::kidding:

A 3 foot Snipe is a pretty damn big Snipe!

Randy

Frank V
08-02-2015, 03:10 PM
A 3 foot Snipe is a pretty damn big Snipe!

Randy

Yes it is!!!

Safeshot
08-18-2015, 03:44 PM
I agree that all of the approaches mentioned above in the thread will work and I have successfully used most of them. Resizing the fired, expanded .308 Win (or 7.62 x 51) case (after lubing it) in a .45 Auto Pistol Carbide sizing die as a first step, is (in my opinion) the easiest and quickest approach. If you have not tried it, you may be pleasantly surprised just how easy and quick it is. (Just try it once, you may like it.) P.S. No snipe of any size is involved in this approach.

Frank V
08-22-2015, 05:24 PM
If I run into any trouble I will try this method.
Thanks Safeshot.