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retread
06-12-2015, 01:46 AM
I have a 36 Navy that I bought in 1978. It was marked Lyman, but was probably just marketed by them. Looks very much like the pictures of an Umberti. I was removing a nipple when out at the range (ground there is coarse gravel) and I dropped the nipple and could not find it in that gravel. I do not live where the type of supplier for those kind of parts is located. I do most all of my shopping for my hobby online. My question is twofold, first where can I find a knowledgeable supplier online and what is the correct nipple. It uses a no. 10 cap but I do not know the thread to specify (If I knew it was indeed an umberti that would help).

Comments are appreciated. Thanks, Jay

docone31
06-12-2015, 07:44 AM
These folks have them, and a chart for sizing them.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/
I like dealing with them.
those Navies are great.

Hellgate
06-12-2015, 08:41 PM
I have a very old (1960s) Uberti and it has the older 6X.75 nipple threads. Every other Uberti I have has the 12X28 more coarse threads. Best to just send the nipple in to Track of the wolf and they'll get you a new set. I like their SS replacement nipples which fit the Remington #10 caps. If you buy a single nipple it might be of a different length. You might tell them when the gun was made. Tell them which Roman numerals are stamped on the frame for the manufacturing date.

retread
06-12-2015, 10:34 PM
I have a very old (1960s) Uberti and it has the older 6X.75 nipple threads. Every other Uberti I have has the 12X28 more coarse threads. Best to just send the nipple in to Track of the wolf and they'll get you a new set. I like their SS replacement nipples which fit the Remington #10 caps. If you buy a single nipple it might be of a different length. You might tell them when the gun was made. Tell them which Roman numerals are stamped on the frame for the manufacturing date.

Thanks for the info. Mine needs a #10 cap. 11 falls right off unless you distort it.

Thanks also to decone31 for the site address.

Jay

bedbugbilly
06-13-2015, 08:58 AM
As docone31 ssuggested - Track of the Wolf. Give them a call and they can help you out - good folks to deal with. I've been buying parts from them since the 80's.

Battis
06-13-2015, 12:06 PM
I recently bought an 1898 Krag that I took apart, cleaned, and washed with a garden hose in my backyard. When I put the rifle together I saw that the ejector was missing - it was in the grass somewhere. I crawled around like a madman but did not find it (it's about 3/4" long). That night I went out with a large round magnet in a mesh laundry bag and dragged the bag around in the area where I thought the part might be. Within two minutes I heard a clink, and sure enough the part was on the magnet. Maybe it's worth a try (be prepared for some strange looks).

retread
06-14-2015, 10:41 PM
Thanks for the tips guys. I will try Track of the Wolf this week.

Jay

Southron
06-15-2015, 01:47 PM
Most of the '51 Navy Revolvers that Lyman sold were made by Euroarms [Armi San Paulo.]

If I were you, I would take this as an opportunity to replace the Italian made nipples with high quality, TRESCO nipples available from The Possible Shop.

http://possibleshop.com/s-s-nipples-cb.html

TRESCO nipples are made out out of an aluminum/bronze metal that is much harder and longer lasting than regular steel nipples. In addition, they don't have a tendency to rust up like steel nipples and last much, much longer.

A major cause of chainfires are loose fitting caps. The TRESCO nipples are designed to fit American made percussion caps, i.e., If I recall correctly, the Remington #11 percussion caps.

Omnivore
06-15-2015, 05:15 PM
I have several sets of Tresos, and they all fit Remington #10 caps perfectly. No pinching caps, and no using a push stick or other nonsense. If you want to be sure, that's your combination; Treso/Rem 10.

toot
06-17-2015, 10:53 AM
I to have a LYMAN marked pistol- an 1860 ARMY and it has the UBERTI symbol on the side of the receiver. mine was mace in 1968 and still going strong. also when you have the nipples out to clean them put a little coating of ANTI SEIGE or NEVER SEIZE on them on them. you will never have a problem removing them.

Ballistics in Scotland
06-17-2015, 11:42 AM
Track's printed catalogue (my example being quite an old one) say Armi San Marco and Uberti both changed from 12-28 to 6mmx0.75 in 1980. So you would be best to measure the nipples you have. A no. 12 thread should be about .216 in diameter, and 6mm. is .236, so you don't really need a caliper or micrometer if you have a good steel ruler.

Yes, it is a good idea to replace all the nipples with some that fit easily available American caps. Pinching the caps may avoid them falling off, though imperfectly I think, but does very little for chainfires. Like corsetry, if it makes them smaller in one place, they have to be bigger somewhere else. Aluminium bronze, or a closely related alloy, is also sold under the name Ampco. They aren't actually any harder than steel, but resist erosion better even than stainless steel. It is particularly important to make sure that the hammer is stopped by the frame rather than by the nipple, or bronze will deform even more than steel. You can lightly file or stone them if you have to. The ideal situation is one where nipple and hammer both make firm contact with cap metal, but can't with each other.

Hellgate
06-17-2015, 12:42 PM
B in Scotland,
I think you have is backwards. The Uberti & ASM revolvers I have dating since 1993 are all of 12X28 nipple threads. The Piettas are 6X.75

Geezer in NH
06-17-2015, 06:32 PM
Most of the '51 Navy Revolvers that Lyman sold were made by Euroarms [Armi San Paulo.]

.
My Lyman 36 is an Uberti

Ballistics in Scotland
06-18-2015, 03:03 PM
B in Scotland,
I think you have is backwards. The Uberti & ASM revolvers I have dating since 1993 are all of 12X28 nipple threads. The Piettas are 6X.75

Yes, my apologies, for you are right. In any case 1978 is close enough to make it advisable to check the nipples in that particular revolver.

doc1876
06-19-2015, 08:18 PM
no matter what you do get extras

retread
06-19-2015, 09:44 PM
No markings on it saying anything as to manufacturer. No standard thread gage will fit the thrad profile properly so I assume I must be metric. Hard to measure the pitch but is does appear to be .75 mm. Measure again and the diameter mics at 5.7 mm with an overall length of .499 in. Still looks like .75 thread pitch.

Ballistics in Scotland
06-20-2015, 07:06 AM
That would be about .224in. diameter, while 6mm. is .236 and No12 is .187. It isn't uncommon for general screw threads to be .012 undersize at the crests (it is the flanks that make the fit), but it is unlikely on a nipple, where gas penetration is a serious drawback.

Track of the Wolf say the original Colt nipples were .225-32, and I suppose it is possible that this was used in Italy for a short period, though I haven't heard of it. There is also a possibility that Colt and their successors used a 7/32in. thread. There is a British Standard Whitworth, old enough for the Navy, at 7/32-24, but the British Standard Fine thread, at 7/32-28, is too recent for the original Colts, but it was used for the striker retainers of my Charles Daly imported Prussian 10ga, and smaller Whitworth threads are used for various pins in my Belgian Spirlet revolver of 1869. The reduced rear cylinder of the 1860 generation of Colts was made possible by the use of Jessop silver steel imported from England, so everything got everywhere in those days.

If I were designing a muzzle-loader from scratch, I believe I would use a tapered pipe thread for the nipples, so that they tighten up on the threads, and not on any shoulder at all. The smallest British size has a major diameter of .304in.

Hellgate
06-21-2015, 10:47 AM
B in Scotland,
I think if a pipe thread were used rather than a shoulder the measurements (threading) would have to be very exacting otherwise the heigths of the nipples would vary by how hard they were screwed in or pounded by the hammer. A shoulder stops the depth abruptly for more uniformity in how far out the cone protrudes. The hammer face/nipple distance is pretty critical to reliable cap ignition and a few thou makes a huge difference.

Ballistics in Scotland
06-22-2015, 05:12 AM
That's a good point. It could be done, but would be troublesome. I was thinking mainly of muzzle-loading rifles, where the hammer is expected to rest on the nipple to reduce gas escape and erosion.

Sasquatch-1
06-22-2015, 06:22 AM
If you can't get what you need from Track Of The Wolf Try these folks. www.taylorsfirearms.com (http://www.taylorsfirearms.com)

I know they sell Uberti and Pietta cap and ball revolvers and have nipples listed for the Pietta.