Moving right along, here

[sniper]

Well, two Tire shop managers said they won't sell me used wheelweights, "because of the environment",so, I went to a buddy of mine, who knows people, and he will find me some.

I have 50 lbs of wheelweight in my carport, and another buddy who has some he'll sell me...when he finds the ingots. Ordered some Bull Shop sprue plate lube.

Now: Using wheelweight, and wishing to approximate Lyman #2 alloy, How much of what do I add to the mix? Will 50-50 bar solder do the job? Will wheel weights alone cast good bullets?

Inspected my new (to me) mould, and it looks to be in excellent shape. Will it do any good at all to gently sand the bottom of the sprue plate with fine grit (800 comes to mind) and oil, on a piece of flat granite? How about the same treatment for the top of the mould blocks?

As I recall, my last RCBS mould developed a loose sprue plate, and I would have to retighten it every 3-5 castings. Is there a simple solution to this problem? Red Loctite? And how tight is it supposed to be? Loose enough so it will fall open of its own weight?

Thanks

[looseprojectile]

I have always used the method you describe on sprue plates and also use steel wool to clean the flats. Also spin some steel wool in the cavityies, lightly, occaisonally. Only when the mould is closed. Only if it needs it.
Just do what you gotta do without taking off the sharp edges of the cavities.
I have restored some awfully neglected, abused moulds this way. Nearly ruined a couple also.
Life is good

[Buckshot]

"Will it do any good at all to gently sand the bottom of the sprue plate with fine grit (800 comes to mind) and oil, on a piece of flat granite?"

..............Unless there is a problem, don't.

"How about the same treatment for the top of the mould blocks?"

..............See answer above.

"As I recall, my last RCBS mould developed a loose sprue plate, and I would have to retighten it every 3-5 castings. Is there a simple solution to this problem?"

.............All RCBS mould blocks have a sockethead setscrew in the side of the blocks which bears on the sprueplate screw. Tighten it. Before you do, check to see if the small protective brass disc is there under the setscrew so you don't booger up the bolt's threads.

...............Buckshot

[sniper]

Thanks, guys.
Going on the principle that has dogged me all my life; "If it ain't broke, give it here a minute!" I WILL leaave well enough alone, at least till I have a problem. :mrgreen:

[looseprojectile]

Sniper;
I just add a little solder or tin of some sort until the boolits fill out well. You seem to understand that the mould must be CLEAN and HOT when casting. According to what you are casting for you might need to adjust the alloy. Straight wheel weights work fine for many people in low velocity handguns. For smaller caliber rifles and magnum handguns some linotype may be used to harden the alloy.

Buckshot; You da man here, though I have found that most things that are mass produced today will need some finishing and or tweaking to suit MY purposes. A habit gained from years of being a bench mechanic. I consider even a new in the box firearm, a KIT of PARTS that can use a little massaging to get it to run well.
Maybe I am too critical? Some people can make a business of tuning guns for instance. You say, "if it don't have a problem don't fix it". That is very good advice and I will go with that.
Life is good

[Cherokee]

Air cooled wheel weight bullets, maybe 1% tin added if necessary, work great for me with majority of my reloads. See how the mold casts before doing anythng to it - except making sure its very clean to start off with.

[bigborefan]

Sniper,
On your loose sprue plate. All you need to do is set the screw to where sprueplate moves freely without being too loose. Then mark the screw at the point it is in line with the sockethead set screw. Then remove the plate screw and file a flat spot on the screw where there are no threads and is in line with this mark. The object is to keep this screw from turning while the sprueplate pivots and this does take care of it.

[sundog]

brass lamp chain beads make good set screw protectors. cut one bead off the chain and drop in the hole under the set screw and mash it down. sprue plate screw ought to hold then.

[opentop]

Now: Using wheelweight, and wishing to approximate Lyman #2 alloy, How much of what do I add to the mix? Will 50-50 bar solder do the job? Will wheel weights alone cast good bullets?

Lyman #2
9 pounds WW
1 Pound 50/50 solder

[FISH4BUGS]

Now: Using wheelweight, and wishing to approximate Lyman #2 alloy, How much of what do I add to the mix? Will 50-50 bar solder do the job? Will wheel weights alone cast good bullets?


I have always used 5lbs WW to 1lb linotype to approximate Lyman #2.

[Bullshop]

If I am not mistaken Lyman #2 is 90/5/5 lead / tin /antimony.
If your only adding 50/50 solder 50% lead/ 50% tin to ww your going to come up shore in antimony.
You will need to add about 4.5% antimony to get Lyman #2. Just because your alloy may test the same hardness as #2 does not make it #2.
Blessings
BIC/BS

[opentop]

I was going by the lyman instructions that came with an older lyman mold.

It states Lyman #2

9 Pounds WW
1 pound 50/50 solder

or

4 pounds Linotype
1 Pound 50/50 solder
5 pounds lead

[sniper]

Sniper,
On your loose sprue plate... mark the screw at the point it is in line with the sockethead set screw.


Setscrew? What setscrew? I looked, and by George, there IS one! Duh! :roll: Thanks, and I will file the flat, as suggested.


The others:
Thanks for the Lyman #2 recipes.

And the bead chain suggestion. Darn, I have LOTS to learn.:oops: