PID help

[JSH]

Ok gents I have put it off long enough. I have seen way to much positive input to put it off any longer.
I have looked through various threads on the subject. So be nice because I am pretty sensitive, not lol. However I am not of the electric type. Actually I am allergic to electricity.
Is there a list out there of proven parts to assemble one of these? Have a retired buddy that is good with electrical, I get the parts he will help me.
Yes, I did see several lists, but they were pretty dated. Also thought that those of you using these on a frequent basis had worked most of the bugs out and the does and don'ts of them.
Thanks
Jeff

[RobS]

This seller is probably the easiest to work with as he is packaging this out with everything you need, even thermal grease for the SSR and the heat sink.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261286976034?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Make sure to ask for the Type K Thermocoupler - probe K-TYPE @ 5 X 100 MM ( 4 INCH PROBE , 1 METER OF WIRE , 0-800 C)

You may be able to piece things together cheaper but not by much. You will only need some sort of enclosure to finish it up and and some wiring and connectors. I used an old burnt out computer powder supply box for mine. I've seen people even use a cardboard box for an enclosure although this wouldn't be my choice.

http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt206/RobS01/PIDLeePot_zps0c870ab4.jpg (http://s612.photobucket.com/user/RobS01/media/PIDLeePot_zps0c870ab4.jpg.html)

Here is a wiring diagram:
http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt206/RobS01/PID%20wiring_zpss7mzjppg.jpg (http://s612.photobucket.com/user/RobS01/media/PID%20wiring_zpss7mzjppg.jpg.html)

and another although the above is a direct comparison for the Mypin controller.

http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt206/RobS01/900x900px-LL-299bc6ce_PIDimage9_zps63ef4bc4.jpeg (http://s612.photobucket.com/user/RobS01/media/900x900px-LL-299bc6ce_PIDimage9_zps63ef4bc4.jpeg.html)

And also used with my oven:
http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt206/RobS01/PIDConvectionToasterOven_zpsa184c758.jpg (http://s612.photobucket.com/user/RobS01/media/PIDConvectionToasterOven_zpsa184c758.jpg.html)

[bhn22]

They're really quite basic. I was hesitant to build mine, but if you can rewire a table lamp, you should be able to build a PID. The wiring directions are really clear on the "MyPin" PIDS, and all you need is a solid state relay, a suitable box, a way to get power in and power out, a thermocouple (get the high range one) and an on/off switch for a basic unit. There are a number of threads here, many are slightly different, but essentially the same. The wire you need is available by the foot at most good hardware stores. I soldered my wire connections, but many don't seem to do this. I will warn you that the cheaper PIDS are probably not stocked in the U.S. and that it may take a month to get them. If you search on Amazon, they have packages listed with a PID, SSR, and the thermocouple.

140362

[mongoose33]

I'd go with what RobS indicated above. I have the MyPin TA4 in mine, so if I were to build another, this is the kit I'd get.

[blikseme300]

I have built a number of PID units for myself and other folks learning along the way that there is a fine line between cheap and economical. I don't promote the "money is no object" route but my experience has been that getting the parts including the enclosure for Auber Instruments is the easiest route. I have done a number of units with parts sourced from evilbay as well as Amazon but the failure rate and lack of data sheets of these have soured me.

My last unit I had to do as economically as possible and used parts sourced from Amazon costing $64.12 which included everything except the wiring/cables and plugs. Pity is that the PID came with NO instructions and the seller through Amazon store never responded to requests for this. Luckily a member here from Oz sent me the sheets. The unit works fine and has had fair use over a number of casting sessions but the gotcha is that it only displays Centigrade so a conversion table is used.

My opinion is that the cost of PID itself should not be the deciding factor as the bulk of the expense is other than it. Example is that as I use 240V for my rigs and the cost of the plugs alone equal the cost of a PID from Auber and there is actually support that will answer a call.

[bhn22]

Auber does a great job, ships fast, and stocks a lot of the incidental parts that make the project easier, like the jack and plugs for the thermocouple in my picture. I wanted to be able to use interchangable TCs, and this was the best way to do it.

[dikman]

JSH, the parts lists may be "dated", but that is only a problem if they've listed ebay suppliers who may not be around anymore. The basic principles, and parts required, haven't changed. If you're not feeling relaxed about sourcing the bits then get them locally (as in the US). It may cost a bit more but it should give you peace-of-mind. All of my bits have been sourced via ebay ('cos they're all horribly expensive here!) and I've had no problems with the three that I've built - other than figuring out how to programme the PIDs, as bhn has mentioned.

I'd suggest you consider buying a spare SSR and probe too, that way if you do have problems you won't have to wait for the bits to come in.

[benellinut]

This seller is probably the easiest to work with as he is packaging this out with everything you need, even thermal grease for the SSR and the heat sink.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261286976034?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Make sure to ask for the Type K Thermocoupler - probe K-TYPE @ 5 X 100 MM ( 4 INCH PROBE , 1 METER OF WIRE , 0-800 C)

You may be able to piece things together cheaper but not by much. You will only need some sort of enclosure to finish it up and and some wiring and connectors. I used an old burnt out computer powder supply box for mine. I've seen people even use a cardboard box for an enclosure although this wouldn't be my choice.


That ebay listing shows one of the fake SSR's that's out there, the seller may not be aware. Here's a link with good photos that shows the difference between the fake and real SSR's.
http://canada.ul.com/safetyalerts/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/

I'm going to run my Lee Pro 4 pot on just the PDI with an internal relay skipping the SSR. It will be a much smaller box and a simple setup, here is a thread on the topic.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?278033-Why-use-an-SSR-when-Lee-states-the-Pro-4-20lb-pot-(100v)-only-draws-6-36-amps