One Jackrest to rule them all

[Hannibal]

During a recent discussion with Goodsteel of the forum, I was lamenting about the discouraging range results I was having with a rifle. Actually, I was not happy with results from most of my rifles, but one bothered me in particular. Goodsteel was quick to identify the likely source as being the rest I was using at the time, and was kind enough to provide instructions on how to construct a much improved version.
Following his advice and shamelessly copying design features from a rest he constructed, I was able to assemble what you see in the photos. At 23 lbs, it provides a wonderful shooting platform.

[Hannibal]

I shall let the range results speak for themselves. Both are 10 round, 100 Yd. groups fired from a Savage .243. The orange dot measures 1". The previous best group measures 1.550" C-C, and the first group with the new rest came in at .752".

I'm a happy guy. :bigsmyl2:

[Hannibal]

Photo attached.

[MBTcustom]

Well done.
Best looking jackrest I have ever seen. If you're going to build one, this is the way to do it.

[slim1836]

Well done.
Best looking jackrest I have ever seen. If you're going to build one, this is the way to do it.

How about sharing some details?:D

Slim

[Hannibal]

Base is made of 1" steel bar stock, drilled and tapped for leveling feet. Top of rest has slotted holes with hinged sides to be infinately adjustable to accomodate different fore end widths. And the sides and bottom are lined with self-adhesive furniture moving pads.
The over-all weight, ridgity and the slickness of the felt are all very important design features, and I'm VERY pleased with the performance.
There is also an adjustable fore end stop to ensure the rifle will return to exactly the same spot on the rest following each shot.

[Bjornb]

Now THAT'S a great front rest! I had similar problems getting several of my rifles to shoot; then whenever I borrowed a competition rest from a buddy at the range my groups would mysteriously improve.
Then Goodsteel built his epic deluxe front rest and next thing you know he could feel my envy through the phone lines between Arkansas and Florida.

I had a good rest base, and Tim built me a rest top very similar to yours. And what a difference it has made.

Great work, that hunk of steel will last several lifetimes.

[Hannibal]

Tim is an enabler of the worst sort. :grin:

[BNE]

Come on Tim, We want instructions!! How about a kit?

[Hannibal]

Sgt. Mike, thank you for the sage advice. I have a good feeling about the future and this rest, to be sure.

[Hannibal]

Come on Tim, We want instructions!! How about a kit?

Sir, I do not mean to be a smart aleck, but the instructions I received were not terribly more detailed than what you see in the photos and the materials list. It requires a scissor jack, welder, grinder and basic metal working skills plus several hours of lay-out, fabbing and assembly time. I could make more, but due to the time involved, they wouldn't be cheap, unfortunately.

I could perhaps alter the design so that it could be assembled after shipping. I'm not sure if the jack will fit in a USPS flat rate box, though.
So far as cost, I suppose it would depend on how many folks are interested.

[MBTcustom]

Come on Tim, We want instructions!! How about a kit?

When in doubt, make it stout?
LOL!

[MBTcustom]

Honestly, the use of a proper front rest and rear bag is of absolutely vital importance to shooting consistent groups. Without a good deal of training, you simply have no idea what a properly constructed position is supposed to feel like, and a heavy front rest can both teach you how it's supposed to work, and keep you in the groove. I think spending time behind a good rest is actually a powerful training aid for shooting from less supported positions (at least it has been for me).
Expanman can explain some of the exercises I gave him to demonstrate his need for a better position.
I explained the critical points that must be in place for a proper front rest, and gave him lots of pictures of my personal design, which he took, modified, and made his own.
My advice was very general. Expanman used it to create a very specific solution, and I do believe his rest gives up nothing to my own, both in looks and in practical functionality.

[Hannibal]

I will compose my thoughts and explain the trouble I was having, and how the source of the trouble was identified and corrected with this rest once I get back to my laptop early tomorrow morning. Tablets are not good for long compositions. Please bear with me until then.

[Artful]

My biggest issue with using mechanical front rests - is out in my real world you can't use them well. So I'm trying to use my Bipods for everything as it gives a more accurate group size to when I'm prone shooting. Are the groups as tight as using a mechanical rest - no but they will show a reasonable size of what you get out in the field.

Shot with a bipod off a portable table.
http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab178/Dirt1/Tests/IMG_0318.jpg

[Hannibal]

Let me start by saying that I am not, nor do I aspire to be at the present time, a benchrest shooter. What I am acutely interested in is determining the potential precision possible with a rifle/ammo combination. I think we all can agree that there is a limit to which a particular rifle/ammo/shootist combination is capable of. I wish to analyze the rifle/ammo and remove the shootist from the equation as much as practical.
I have been working with the rifle that I shot the groups posted above for a period of years now, and while I always 'felt' that it was capable of high precision, that means nothing without concrete results. I have managed a best of 1 1/2" until this shooting, and the usual was more along the line of 1 3/4".
After a typical range session as described above, I was conversing with Goodsteel about my disappointing results. He asked to see the rest arrangement I was using and immediately suggested I take a hard look at what I was doing different as opposed to shooters who have posted admirable results here on the forum. He also suggested that I perform a 'dry fire' exercise using the rest configuration I had shown him by dry firing 5 shots at a target and recording where the cross hairs of the scope were when the hammer dropped.
I would encourage anyone reading this who is dis-satisfied with their on-target range results to at least try this exercise. Check your ego and pre-conceived notions at the door. Perfect honesty is required, or you are simply lying to yourself and wasting your time.
Imagine my astonishment when I recorded the following results.

[MaryB]

A picture of how the rifle sits in the rest would be worth a thousand words...

[Hannibal]

Well. My dry-fire exercise results nearly mimic the last on-range target I have. Add in recoil and I'd say it's a perfect match. More conversation with Goodsteel during which he asked, "So, what do you think you're doing wrong?".
I admitted that the only things I was doing right were probably trigger squeeze and follow-thru and everything else was a train-wreck.
So. Tim suggested I make a jackrest with the following design considerations : It needs to be heavy, so use 1" steel for the legs. It needs to be rigid. And the top of the rest needs to be infinitely adjustable.
I took these instructions and came up with 3 basic requirements. 1 - it HAD to be functional. 2 - it HAD to be precise. 3 - it HAD to look professional. I had no interest in building something I would be embarrassed by the appearance of.
Tim built what I believe is the most artistically functional front rest ever created. It is viewable over at the NOE site, under On The Range, Built A Machine Rest. I studied those photos, and using the skills I have and the materials I had available, created what you see above. It is not particularly hard IF you have a welder, grinder, cut-off saw and basic metal working skills. It was rather time consuming. I spent the better part of a week-end on it. But it was my first one, and I was solving problems as I found them. I chose to purchase a new scissor jack from the auto parts store. Why? Well, we are working with a tool outside of it's original design parameters and expecting a lot out of it. After it has hoisted an automobile, it is improbable it will be as rigid as it was when new.

Was it worth it? Well, here are the first 5 rounds out of that 10 shot group. Keep in mind this is the first time I used the rest. That comes in at about .542"

[Hannibal]

Using this rest, I can almost immediately get the 'feel' for a good shot once I have properly built my position. That means, the rest is squared with the target, the rifle is centered in the rest, the rear bag is lined up straight with the rifle and target, and the rest is adjusted to the proper height. If this is done correctly and the top of the rest is correctly adjusted, the rifle can freely recoil to the rear, be returned to the original firing position against the fore end stop, and the scope will be nearly on the bullseye.
I would submit that anyone who is having difficulty evaluating their rifle/ammo/skills would immediately benefit from such a design. It is not the only way. Just a way. And it works like a champ for me.

[Hannibal]

A picture of how the rifle sits in the rest would be worth a thousand words...

Looks like we were typing at the same time. I'll add a side shot, too.

[Hannibal]

A picture of how the rifle sits in the rest would be worth a thousand words...

In the event that I mis-understood at first, allow me to post the following picture. Center the cross hairs on the target. Begin your trigger squeeze. Keep both eyes open and record on a second target close at hand just where the cross hairs were when the hammer fell. It ain't easy. Might have to try this several times as well. Ask me how I know. The point here is not to be perfect, but to record where your point of aim honestly is when the hammer drops. AGAIN. This is NOT the place for egos. You have to be perfectly honest with yourself, for there is no one else to evaluate what is going on at this particular moment. Or this is just another waste of time.

Now, that shot is at a 300 Yd target. Not the best example, but the only one I have readily available.

Clearly such a sight picture would result in a clear miss provided the scope was properly zeroed.

[Hannibal]

As for details of the build, 1-18" piece and 2-9" pieces of 1" bar stock were drilled and tapped for 3/8"x16 thread 3/4" from one end. The 18" piece was welded to a 7" square piece of 1/4" plate steel. This dimension was not carefully calculated, I merely had such a piece at hand. The 2-9" pieces were then welded from the 2 opposing corners at 60 degree angles. A 9" long piece of 3"x1/2" flat stock was then drilled and tapped with a series of 1/4"x20 holes to allow for adjustments of the side pieces. I happened to have 2 pieces of 1/4" x2"x2" angle lying around with slots already cut into them. If you choose to build your own, these slots are likely to be the most difficult part to create. 2-2"x3"x1/4" steel plates were then cut and fastened to the slotted angle sides by small hinges at the bottom. Holes were then drilled near the top of the angle pieces for 10-24 screws so that the side plate angle can be adjusted. The top bracket was then cut-off of the scissor jack, holes drilled to mount the jack to the top and bottom plate, and the jack handle was cut down and welded to the screw bracket on the jack. A hole was drilled in the center of the jack frame, and a piece of steel tubing with a pre-threaded hole for a 10-24 bolt was inserted and welded in place. A piece of 5/16" round stock 12" long with a second piece of steel tubing welded to one end and threaded for a set bolt was then added, along with a 6" piece of 5/16" round stock to create the stop. The whole thing was then painted, and after drying, bolted together using flat head counter-sink 1/4-20 bolts on the top so that the heads did not protrude above the surface and a piece of rubber tubing added to the upright piece of the stop bracket to prevent marring of the rifle stock while in use. 3-3/8" bolts were threaded into the legs for leveling feet, and self-adhesive pads for moving furniture were then cut to proper size and added to the bottom and side plates of the rest bracket on top.
I believe now one can get a sense of the time required to assemble such a project. This is not particularly difficult if you do metalworking projects and have the tools necessary to obtain satisfactory results.

[MaryB]

Now I get the general idea. You had mentioned a stop to position the same each time and that had me a bit confused as to how... Now to see what I can come up with from stuff I have around the house.

[popper]

I don't 'dry' fire but use a red laser pointer & watch the spot move. Even at 50' you see what is going on immediately. We've all seen barrel whip vids, the stand and barrel do the same bounce thing. Where the fore end is positioned on the stand can make a difference also, just like barrel whip. Do you shoot the cross arm position, free recoil or hold the fore end?

[Hamish]

Outstanding thread!

[Hannibal]

I don't 'dry' fire but use a red laser pointer & watch the spot move. Even at 50' you see what is going on immediately. We've all seen barrel whip vids, the stand and barrel do the same bounce thing. Where the fore end is positioned on the stand can make a difference also, just like barrel whip. Do you shoot the cross arm position, free recoil or hold the fore end?

Cross arm with everything except my .358 BLR. It rebounds off the rest too much if I don't hang onto it. Tim tells me thicker felt is available at Lowe's, so I'm going to try that and see if it helps.

[Hannibal]

Outstanding thread!


Thank you ! I hope many members will find the information useful.

[MBTcustom]

That felt coaster material has really been the cat's meow. Seems like it gives the perfect friction on the forend.

I agree this is an excellent thread that shows how to build a rest from easily found materials, and it addresses the fundamental features of a good rest:
1. Footprint. The rest must have a broad footprint.
2. Weight. Poor mans accuracy enhancement for all things related to precise manipulation of a projectile.
3. Adjustable paddles. Seems Fit is still king.
4. The correct friction. Felt pads again.
5. A repeatable stop. Shooting from the same place on the forend is very important.

Expanman got these things right, and made a home run hitter.

[BNE]

Expanmann, thank you for all the details and the pictures. I really was kidding about "the kit". I would pefer to build my own...just like most people on this board. I have spent the last couple of years specifically working on my loads for pistols and shooting my pistol respectably. I want to move on to rifles next.


Great post, Thanks again.

[Hannibal]

My pleasure. I've learned a lot from the forum and I'm glad to contribute when I can.

[Bjornb]

If I may, I'd like to add a little tip that has helped me a lot when it comes to gaining stability at the bench. In addition to my front rest (a classic Gene Beecher made in Cleveland, OH about 1959) for which Goodsteel made a rest top that is absolutely the finest I have seen, I use this contraption to secure the rest to the shooting bench:
140315140316140317
It's cheap and effective.

[Hannibal]

That looks like a great way to get the benefits of a solid base without having to pack the heavy hardware to the bench to me. VERY nice.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

Great thread, most are just fluff, but this one is the real deal.

[izzyjoe]

Wow, that's nice front rest! I made one from a car jack as well, but have never been completely happy with it, I have another new jack and I will build one like that. Thanks for the info, and thank you you Tim! Just one more reason I love this site!

[woodbutcher]

:bigsmyl2: Hannibal.Thanks for a great thread.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[Hannibal]

You all are very welcome. I'm happy to have been able to contribute an idea that so many are finding useful.

[Frank46]

I've had a bald eagle benchrest rest that I have had for years. Works well for just about any rifle except lever actions. And a steel rest that I don't remember who made it. This one is foldable as all the parts are held in place with allen wrench type bolts. Loosen the bolts open it up tighten the legs and the center post can also be adjusted. I had a buddy who was a home shop machinest who made one out of bronze round stock. Center post was adjustable for windage and elevation. Always looked grungy so one day I said when you gonna polish it up?. Next time at the range he had it all slicked up. got a lot of comments on it. Weighed a ton and very stable. Frank

[jmorris]

drilled and tapped for 3/8"x18 thread 3/4" from one end.

What are the feet that thread in the hole? Isn't that a pipe thread?

[Hannibal]

I just used a standard 3/8 - 16 course thread bolt. Looks like I fat-fingered a key above. I'll fix it, thanks for pointing that out.

[EDG]

I used to use sand bags made from the legs of denim jeans.

But about 30 years ago I accurized ALL of my rifles in about 3 hours.
I bought a Hart heavy varmint rest and a set of Protektor bags for it.
It also cut my component use in working up loads by about 50%.

After many many range sessions I finally concluded that the Hart rest and a top of the line spotting scope are the two most valuable things you use.
No matter what you are shooting they make EVERY trip to the range.

[jmorris]

I ordered a jack off eBay to throw one of these together to compare it against how I have always done it and have a few questions.

Most of the felt pads I have seen are disks that stick or nail onto the bottom of feet I you have a link to what you used?

The one that is on the bottom, do you swap that out if you adjust the angles wider/narrower?

The 10-24's angling in the sides, how much pressure do you have on them? I am guessing some what compressing the felt pads but still able to slide back and forth.?

[Hannibal]

I don't have a link on the felt pads, but just about any discount or home improvement store chain should carry them. And the rectanguler self-adhesive pads roughly 1/4" thick by 2"×4" or so is what I used. I cut the bottom piece just a tad wide and the sides run right up to it with a narrow fore end stock like a lever action, but still covers the bottom when adjusted out for a wider stock. If you have a true bench stock with a big, fat fore end, you will need to formulate a different plan.
And as for the side 'paddles', I just set the angle to the stock contour. Really acting as guides, not enough pressure to start clamping. You may find you or your rifle likes a tighter adjustment, but what I mentioned has worked fine for me so far.

[Bjornb]

Most of the felt pads I have seen are disks that stick or nail onto the bottom of feet I you have a link to what you used?



Lowe's carries a large, solid felt pad that's sold in a blister pack of 4 (they look like they are about 2x8"). It's in the section where they keep all their chair leg protectors etc. Price about 8 bucks for the pack. Great stuff.

[jmorris]

And as for the side 'paddles', I just set the angle to the stock contour. Really acting as guides, not enough pressure to start clamping. You may find you or your rifle likes a tighter adjustment, but what I mentioned has worked fine for me so far.


When you use it do they look like this "\_/" this "/_\" or "|_|". Seems like if it were the last one you could just use the "slot" adjustment. If it were one of the other two just bend the slotted angle parts to something other than 90 degrees. Having never used one I am not sure what I am missing though.

thanks Bjornb, I'll check lowes.

[Hannibal]

This '\_/' really doesn't work, but I have used the other two configurations about equally as often. You could always make one or more sets of sides bent to different angles I suppose, but as the slots for the sides to slide in and out is one of the harder things to do without a mill, the hinges and adjusting screws are just easier plus you get infinate adjustability.

[jmorris]

Had a little time this morning to play so I got started.

I didn't like the handle that came with the jack I bought so I just cut the loop off and knurled a round drop of 1/4" plate steel (left over from a hole cut from another project) and welded it on.

I had some 2x3 angle so I just machined the slots longer so I wouldn't have to completely remove the bolts to have enough adjustment for everything I have.

Question, do you ever have the jaws on yours not parallel? I thought of adding a second bolt to keep them parallel (like on the left side in the photo below) but was not sure if a wedge in the jaws would ever be wanted. I assume with a stop, intending for the rifle to move back and forth, parallel would be best?

What is the allowed angle in "/_\" on the hinged plates? They need to be shimmed up from the bottom or they won't be able to angle towards the center but if they are too high on the hinge they will be able to fall flat and might become a pain.

Also, the total foot print of the one you have is something like 16.5" wide and 24" OAL?

[Hannibal]

I've never found a case where I wanted the jaws other than parallel, and when the slot bolts are tightened, they stay parallel, but YMMV.

The side plates on mine are high enough that they can drop to about 45 degrees. Once the sides touch at the top, more movement is not useful. Depending on your design, you may choose a shallower or steeper angle.

Overall base dimensions are 13 1/2" x 22". I don't think this is critical, it's just how mine went together.

Hope this helps.

[jmorris]

Was messing around with my jack a little this morning and if it is not all the way up or down and the base is ridged I can rock the top side to side from the base with my hand.

It looks like it comes from backlash between the "gears" at the top and bottom. There are a couple of different ways to eliminate the problem but I am curious if yours does the same?

[Hannibal]

Mine has side-to-side movement, but it requires a fair amount of effort for it to move. The jack is certainly not what I would call loose. I have tried 'locking' it in place, and noticed no discernable difference in the groups. Evidently my shooting style does not impart a force to shift the jack to one side or the other.YMMV.

[jmorris]

Thank you for your help and ideas. Had a chance to finish it except for paint and play with it a little seems like it's going to work OK.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ng39ce3Ii_w

[Hannibal]

Nice work! Congratulations!

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

Define "reasonable cost...", if you would.

Rich

[Hannibal]

I'm not sure to whom you are addressing your question, but in my case, the only materials I had to go buy for this project was the scissor jack and the 1" round stock, spray paint and the felt pads. I spent quite a few hours on fabrication and assembly as well. Given the cost of the jack, round stock, spray paint, felt pads and a roll of flux core welding wire, I've got about $50 in mine.

Now, if you do not already own the necessary hand and power tools and have no scrap metal from prior projects at hand, then this project will likely be cost prohibitive.

[sparky45]

I'm going to do one of these, I got a scissor jack at a garage sale for .50 cents. I have some 3" angle. I'm going to have to buy the round stock though.

[woodbutcher]

:bigsmyl2: UHHHHHHH.Why don`t you just go to the local salvage yard and get a jack out of a late model car?A friend just got three jacks for free from a local salvage yard.They were still in the hold downs and had never been used.The cars were about four years old.
Good luck. Have fun. Be safe.
Leo

[jmorris]

It allowed lowed me to play a little today with a remote trigger I had.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6E_c7zkZXc

[smokeywolf]

Just ran across this thread; glad I did.

Nice design Tim and very nice execution Hannibal.

[nekshot]

when I made mine I used a jack out of a 318 BMW! Now thats a nice smoooth working jack!

[jmorris]

when I made mine I used a jack out of a 318 BMW! Now thats a nice smoooth working jack!

Do you have any photos of your build and does your jack have the side to side movement in it as well?

[nekshot]

no pics because we have another computer and this site won't allow the pic to show. The bmw jack is like their cars, very nice and smooth and zero wobble or movement. The beimer jack has a funny offset table to meet the car that must be rectified. I made mine with a 6x6 wood base and a wood top for the gun to lay on. It will never win a heavy weight contest but it is easy to move about and stays put for all of my shooting and turning the jacks shaft is a pure delight, nice and easy!

[jmorris]

I normally don't paint my projects but the more I use this one the more I like it. Thanks again.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/gn/Rest/IMG_20150903_113758_104-1-1_zps3ggwpg7a.jpg

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/gn/Rest/IMG_20150903_113653_219_zpsjk3wvcux.jpg

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/gn/Rest/IMG_20150903_113627_584_zpsd1ajinmi.jpg

[jmorris]

Well, after using it over the past year I have found it is less than ideal for some of my rifles so I made some modifications to it today (why I almost never paint things).

Pistol grips or some magazines would get in the way making it more hassle to get everything right and when I stacked things so they would work it was less stable than I had become used to so I doubled the rear stabilizer and made a rest that would move back and forth while also transferring recoil to the rest instead of me.

This time I also left it a little more easy to swap out so if I decide I would rather have a different platform for the rear bag it's just two bolts away from being back how it was except still not having the single member below the rifle.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/gn/Rest/IMG_20161006_165821_004-1_zpsess9qmk1.jpg

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/gn/Rest/IMG_20161006_170240_637-1_zpsfnepdzp5.jpg

[Hannibal]

Wow. So you have made it similar in design to a 'leadsled'? I have been thinking of late of how to deal with the profile of sporter stocks when shot off the bench myself. I have resisted the temptation to tie all the recoil into the rest and have instead designed a 'butt end adaptor' that can be used to mimic the flat, parallel profile of benchrest stocks. Been working quite nicely for me. If you do not mind sharing, how has your 'captured recoil' design been working for you at the range? I've been struggling with a 'universal' design and your idea might solve that dilemma quite nicely!

[alamogunr]

I just read thru all 4 pages of this thread. After evaluating my resources and skills, I'm off to look for the Sinclair catalog. Their rests couldn't be more expensive than hiring a fabrication shop to build one.

[jmorris]

I was not sure how I would like the captured recoil part either (but I do), that is why I made the rear plate removable. So I can go back to a rear bag if I want to, I just needed the clearance directly below the centerline.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/gn/Rest/IMG_20161011_100941_851-1-1_zpsdglabdy2.jpg

Shot one of the best groups out of one of my .22's yesterday with it, .275" 5 shots at 60 yards.

[Hannibal]

I was not sure how I would like the captured recoil part either (but I do), that is why I made the rear plate removable. So I can go back to a rear bag if I want to, I just needed the clearance directly below the centerline.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/gn/Rest/IMG_20161011_100941_851-1-1_zpsdglabdy2.jpg

Shot one of the best groups out of one of my .22's yesterday with it, .275" 5 shots at 60 yards.

Nicely done. Have you tried it with something that recoils heavily? Not Ruger #1 in 45-70 type kicking, but say, 300 Win mag range? I've always wondered about the effects of stopping all rearward movement is why I ask.

[Hannibal]

I just read thru all 4 pages of this thread. After evaluating my resources and skills, I'm off to look for the Sinclair catalog. Their rests couldn't be more expensive than hiring a fabrication shop to build one.

Yes, if you are unable or unwilling to do the work yourself, such a project is not cost effective, nor likely personally rewarding. I like to make things, so such a venture is just the thing for me.

[jmorris]

Nicely done. Have you tried it with something that recoils heavily? Not Ruger #1 in 45-70 type kicking, but say, 300 Win mag range? I've always wondered about the effects of stopping all rearward movement is why I ask.

Thanks and no I haven't. I wouldn't expect it to stop all movement but I suspect it would take some of the bite out of them. My Marlin 45-70 is my hardest recoiling rifle, with hand loads, leaves a bruise on my shoulder after a single group. My 50 BMG is a kitten in comparison but also weighs about 40 lbs more.

I think the recoil absorbing feature would be about the same as adding the rests weight to the rifle as far as the shooter is concerned and the same as having a shooter that is that much heavier in the shoulder as far as the rifle is concerned.

[castalott]

You always amaze me, jmorris.... Well done....

[jmort]

^^^ +1
He has mad-skills

[Bzcraig]

^^^ +1
He has mad-skills

He does....I wish I was his neighbor or better yet, he was my neighbor!

[Hannibal]

Thinking of throwing something together using UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic bushings and a pair of steel rods to control rear stock movement. IE - keep the rear stock movement parallel and perpendicular to the fore-end. Just an idea at this point. If I ever get there, I'll post a pic or 10.

[jmorris]

I did this one using linear guides on Thompson shafting rails.

The target was 10 shots fired in under 10 seconds at 100 yards with my Clark custom 10/22 action.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161021_123622_634_zpsicwwebrr.jpg

For a complete rifle you might take a look at this one.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/12787226@N00/shares/85u7bE

You might note that you don't need precision bushings or bearings just two V blocks and precision shafts, so what slides back can be slid back forward to the same position.

[Hannibal]

Several ideas here to mull over. Thanks for the link!

[jmorris]

A conversation about zeroing rifles had me explaining how well this style of rest worked for the job. Then I realized how much longer it actually took to explain the process that it takes to just do the job.

So here's a video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PG13s1bj-jw

[Hannibal]

I've used the same technique on numerous occasions. Seems to work better with some scopes/bases than others, but it always gets you really close. Sure saves time and ammo.