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View Full Version : Another dumb uestion on casting



waynzwld
03-16-2008, 05:58 PM
I started casting again after 16 years and I feel like I never did it before.
Last time I cast I probably cast about 4000 bullets for 375 & 44 mag each. all of those turned out good and shot well. Now I have to start over because I am all out.

Anyway, I have an old SAECO bottom pour 20lb pot and an old Lee bottom pour pot that both worked well in the past, but my current attempt has me frustrated.

I have both pots hooked up to a couple of Honeywell industrial temperature controllers and both pots will maintain temperature within a 14 degree band from set point. I am using mined berm scrap and it comes out at around 13 to 16 BHN and have had no trouble with it in the past.

When I cast, I have the mold up to temp by letting it set on the rim of the pot as it warms up and let it idle for about another 30 to 45 minutes so the autotune feature on the controllers can engage.

The bullets come out of the mold with a wrinkle on one side of the nose with good fill on the bands (using Lee tumble lube mold) most of the time.

I have ran the temp from 675 degrees to 800 degrees and I still get more with wrinkles that without. The base is ok and the front of the nose is good.

Any ideas as what I am doing wrong? Maybe to slow on the pour? I tried a fast pour all the way down to a slow pour and it doesn't seem to make much difference.

I have linotype, wheel weights and pure lead to add if necessary.

Wayne

HABCAN
03-16-2008, 06:33 PM
I would suggest you got some contamination in your mould cavities while they were in storage all that time which is causing those specific-located wrinkles. I'd suggest you clean them up as explained in other posts here, like boiling them for a half-hour, etc., and start over?

waynzwld
03-16-2008, 07:25 PM
OK, I'll try that, I cleaned them with brake cleaner & acetone when I took them out of storage.

cbrick
03-16-2008, 07:44 PM
Lot's of folks clean their mould and think they have it clean. I always clean with denatured alcohol and a tooth brush. Then when "I know" I have it clean just for giggles I start over with clean alcohol and clean it again. Slows up getting started but over time it saves time since I don't get started casting and have to stop because of wrinkled boolits.

As a side note the reason I use denatured alcohol is because of an article years ago I think in the NRA Cast Bullet book (maybe it was Handloader) that said the only regular available cleaner that left nothing on the mould once dried was denatured alcohol. Since it's like $8.00 a gallon I've used it ever since.

Rick

9.3X62AL
03-16-2008, 09:01 PM
CB Rick--

Having just wrestled with a VERY cranky new Lyman #311041 over this issue--where do you get your denatured alcohol? BrakeKleen is about as effective as a tent revival in County Cork.

cbrick
03-16-2008, 09:29 PM
Paint store, hardware store, auto parts store, smaller containers in places like Wally World, drug stores.

hhmmm . . . kinda all over I guess, nothing un-common about it. I get mine at the paint dept. of Home Depot.

Another one of them side notes and this one is strickly a SWAG, I think if you cast with a mould BEFORE you get ALL of anything oily off of it it makes cleaning it more difficult because the heat drives the oil into the pores of the metal. I can't prove that, it just seems so after years of cleaning them, or not getting them clean.

What I have taken to do with new moulds is double pan with the mould in the denatured alcohol and that pan in a pan of very hot water and let them soak awhile, cover alcohol pan to reduce alcohol evaporation and swish around everyone once in a while. This should help but other than making me feel good thinking that it does I can't prove it. If you try this DO NOT heat the alcohol directly on a heat source, it is extremely flammable and the flames are very difficult to see.

Rick

waynzwld
03-17-2008, 08:52 PM
I'll try some denatured alcohol.

Here is my little controller:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/waynzwld/th_control.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/waynzwld/control.jpg)

Using a type "K" thermocouple with the range set for 0 - 1400. That puts 700 degrees in the middle where the accuracy is highest.