Mold handles not all the same?

[brockj]

Hopefully this is the right area for this...

I picked up a couple more lyman/ideal molds and went to try them out tonight, but seemed to run into a problem!

I only have one set of handles, but at this point have 5 molds. 3 of them are lyman 2 cavaties, and 2 are ideal single cavities. I have cast with two of the 2 cavities no problem, so tonight I went to try the single cavity molds and they were way off, now I have seen single cavity mold handles, so I am guessing that is the problem here, but now this is the weird part! I went to put the third double cavity mold on the handles and I could only get one of the screws to tighten. I could get both of them to slide in all the way to the threads, so then I put it up to the light, and I could see a gap (smaller than the gap with the single cavity molds). After fiddling with it for about 10 minutes I decided to forget about it, cast with molds that are working now then see what you guys thought.

I am pretty much stumped on this, but am also pretty new to casting. Is there a single/double cavity handle set and a double cavity only set, and for whatever reason my one double cavity mold won't work with double cavity only handles?

I do have another set of handles on the way, so I will try them out when they get here, but I am pretty much stumped!

Thanks!

[Buckshot]

................All Lyman 2 cavity moulds have always accepted their 2 cavity handles. There isn't 2 different kinds of 2 cavity handles. Something else is wrong.

.................Buckshot

[nicholst55]

I have an older set of Lyman 2-cavity handles, and I notice that the part that actually mounts to the mold blocks are much smaller and thinner than current handles. I haven't actually tried them on a newer mold, but I don't think they would work out - at least not well.

For the price, the Lee 6-cavity handles can't be beat. I'll have to see about buying enough of them for all of my molds and modifying them to fit.

[floodgate]

brockj:

There's a LOT of variability in the older cast/forged handles. Look real carefully at the inner face of the jaws; you should be able to slip a strip of paper or 0.002" - 0.004" shim stock between the jaw and its slot in the block with the mould completely closed. If not, a bit of filing on the jaw may be needed, particularly near the front (on S/C's) or back (D/C's) of the jaw - and sometimes (rarely) next to the screw.

floodgate

[brockj]

Sorry I did not get back right away, I really appreciate the help, I tried again with the same results. The one thing I thought was interesting is the pins on the molds are on different sides on the 2 molds that work with the handles than the other 3 molds, not sure if that makes a difference (and they are all lyman or ideal molds). I have another set of handles coming and as soon as I have them in hand I will try it out with those handles.

Is it wierd though that the pins are on the other side, or does that not make a difference?

[brockj]

Let me see if I can explain the pin thing a little differently...

The two molds that I have that work with the handles have the pins sticking out from the side with the sprue plate. (hard to see I know)
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj45/joebrockman/Random/mold2-1.jpg

The molds that will not work are the opposite, like this:
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj45/joebrockman/Random/mold1.jpg

You think that could be making a difference?

[montana_charlie]

Let me see if I can explain the pin thing a little differently...

You think that could be making a difference?
I doubt that the location of the alignment pins matters...although the difference in location might indicate the age of the moulds. Perhaps moulds of one era will fit your handles better (without modification) than moulds of a different era.

Speaking about one of the moulds that won't work...
Can you mount one mould half on one of the jaws?
If not, what doesn't line up correctly...or where is the interference?
CM

[floodgate]

brockj, charlie, etc.:

Oddly, for all my many Lyman / Ideal moulds I have bought, sold, traded, studied and cast with over the last 50 years or so, I had never noted this issue. I just went out and did a quick check on 15 - 20 moulds I had handy, with the following results:

The old "IDEAL"-marked (before about 1967) moulds seem to have the alignment pins randomly located in either the left-hand (sprue-plate pivot side) or the right-hand blocks;

Older "LYMAN"-marked blocks (but no idea as to date, post-1967) also can have the pins on either side;

"LYMAN" blocks from the past few years (but no idea how far back) are consistently pinned on the LH side.

If I ever proceed further with my Lyman/Ideal mould writeups, I'll have to add this point (also, whether the moulds are stamped on the LH, RH or both side(s)) to my check-lists.

floodgate

[mazo kid]

I have modified a couple of my Lyman handles to fit blocks, usually by a bit of file work near the rear of the block. This allows the block to move just enough to let the screw enter properly and give the blocks a bit of "freedom" to move slightly when closing. Emery

[brockj]

Can you mount one mould half on one of the jaws?
If not, what doesn't line up correctly...or where is the interference?
CM

I am able to mount both halves individually, however, when I try to close the blocks, the rear of the blocks does not make full contact, so when held to a light I can see they are not fully closed, they are fairly close, but not 100%.

I am thinking perhaps what mazo kid did might work for me as it sounds very similar.

I am not sure if this was answered before, but are there mold handles that will only work with double cavity molds and not single? I don't think it would be possible to get the single cavity molds to work with these handles.

[floodgate]

brockj:

Once again:

Yes, The older Lyman handles were different for the single- and double-cavity (or large-caliber single) moulds. Look closely at your set with the blocks in place, and the mould held as closed as it will go. I think you will see that the front inside surface of one or both jaws is touching the bottom front of the slot(s) in the block. If so, remove the blocks again and file away on the inner front face of the jaws, beveling from zero by the screw hole to several thousandths at the tip. (If the blocks fail to close at the front, file at the rear.) If none of these work, try to slip a narrow strip of paper through the space - from front to back - between the inner faces of the jaws and the bottoms of the slots, and see where they are binding.

In general, S/C handles may feel uncomfortably wide-spread when closed on D/C (large) blocks, and the wooden extensions on D/C handles may hit one another before the blocks are fully closed.

[brockj]

I have modified a couple of my Lyman handles to fit blocks, usually by a bit of file work near the rear of the block. This allows the block to move just enough to let the screw enter properly and give the blocks a bit of "freedom" to move slightly when closing. Emery

Well this was the trick, took just a couple minutes of light filing and now fitting together nicely. Too late now to start casting so later this week!

Thanks again!