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View Full Version : Cheap ass mold handles



waksupi
10-03-2005, 02:42 PM
I had another mold handle break today. Not the metal, but the cheap ass birch things they insist on putting on for handles. Why don't they use some oak or maple, something that will last? I made a new pair from some old croquet mallet handles. But we shouldn't have to do this. I don't know how many broken ones I've had over the years, but it seems a hugh percentage.

Attention, mold companies! Shape up, and quit selling crap!

44man
10-03-2005, 03:57 PM
I have had a few Lyman handles crack. I just epoxy them back on and they seem to hold up.

NVcurmudgeon
10-03-2005, 07:21 PM
Almost every mould handle in my accumulation is either cracked or wallowed out. For those of you with wood lathes, oak pallets are a great (free) source of hardwood for toool handles.

9.3X62AL
10-03-2005, 07:54 PM
Epoxy "covers a power of sins", to paraphrase Mark Twain.

762cavalier
10-03-2005, 08:14 PM
Geez I wish I had that problem. the only problem with my mold handles has been the one time my dog got a hold of it and chewed it [smilie=b:

David R
10-03-2005, 10:25 PM
I have had a few problems.

My second Lee 6 cavity 45 cal TL mold broke the sprue cutter handle. I had a nice wood handle over a steel bolt from an Old electric spade drill. I welded it to the stub. Works AWESOME. I also have a couple of OLD lyman handles. Who the heck would put wood on a tapered metal tang??? Kinda stupid there since the metal is going to get hot over and over. Drilled one and drove a roll pin in it. Worked great. I am going to try the epoxy thing on the other set.

I also took an RCBS two cavity handle set, cut off the part with a hole in it for the blocks. I welded a short piece in each side. I now have the nicest 6 cavity handles. Cost more, but beats LEE handles by far.

David

JohnH
10-04-2005, 12:32 AM
I bought a new set of the Lee 6 cavity handles, and one side began to slip inthe first use. I drilled a 7/64ths hole in both sides, dropped in a finishing nail, bent it back around that metal thingy (there's a name for it, but I'm clueless at the moment) Used it two hours yesterday, no problems. But I too have alsways wondered why a company in the business of selling molds and handles can't make a pair of handles that will stay put and won't break. Tis a damn shame that in this country we use better wood in pallets than we use for tools and furniture. I've seen walnut in pallets. Go figure.

Willbird
10-04-2005, 06:34 AM
That metal thingy is a ferrule.

I bought some oak dowel, and I'm going to make some REAL handles when it gets cold. I will either wire wrap and solder a ferrule on them, or try my hand at spinning a few out of annealed copper tubing.

FWIW Saeco seems to still know what it takes to make a good set of handles.


Bill

imashooter2
10-04-2005, 07:42 AM
I bought a new set of the Lee 6 cavity handles, and one side began to slip inthe first use. I drilled a 7/64ths hole in both sides, dropped in a finishing nail, bent it back around that metal thingy (there's a name for it, but I'm clueless at the moment) Used it two hours yesterday, no problems. But I too have alsways wondered why a company in the business of selling molds and handles can't make a pair of handles that will stay put and won't break. Tis a damn shame that in this country we use better wood in pallets than we use for tools and furniture. I've seen walnut in pallets. Go figure.

Don't do that on the sprue cutter handle. It'll snap right off the first time you get a tough sprue.

Bass Ackward
10-04-2005, 08:37 AM
Yep. I use JB Weld because it will take the heat on brand new handles. If you wait until you NEED to use something, then you will always be frustrated as they always would break at the wrong time for me. :grin:

Wayne Smith
10-04-2005, 08:44 AM
David - heat melts epoxy. It's the only way I know to get it loose. I don't think it will work!

44man
10-04-2005, 08:44 AM
JB Weld is the BEST for heat.

waksupi
10-04-2005, 10:57 AM
JB Weld works well for some people. Personally, on all the projects I've tried it on over the years, I can think of zero where it worked for me. Don't know what I do wrong with it.

MT Gianni
10-04-2005, 12:05 PM
Fireplace cement works good and holds up to the heat. Its black and sold in hardware stores or places that sell woodburners. Gianni,

Cherokee
10-04-2005, 12:55 PM
JB Weld works for me. Never had a problem after it set up.

slughammer
10-04-2005, 01:28 PM
For the ones that slip off just use a squirt of high temp RTV from the Napa. Much easier than drilling for a pin and quickly fixes the ones that are wallowed out. Doesn't weaken the steel either.

Hans
10-04-2005, 02:39 PM
I use GORILLA GLUE, and still solid as a rock

David R
10-04-2005, 06:11 PM
For the ones that slip off just use a squirt of high temp RTV from the Napa. Much easier than drilling for a pin and quickly fixes the ones that are wallowed out. Doesn't weaken the steel either.


I like that one, I have tons of it, I am a mechanic. I don't even have to go to Napa, I have it in different colors. Silicone free so it doesn't hurt the O2 sensor on my mold. :)

David

C1PNR
10-04-2005, 11:13 PM
That metal thingy is a ferrule.

Bill
I thought a ferrule was a cat in my yard. A tame cat is one in your yard and a cat in my yard is a ferrule cat!;-)

Well, Carpetman's been absent from this thread and someone has to hold up the integrity of the site!

Be back in a minute, I'm going for another libation.[smilie=l:

PatMarlin
10-05-2005, 08:58 AM
For Sale:

Custom turned hardwood mold handles with your choice on dimentions and JB weld, RTV Black, Gorilla Glue, or bent nail thingy.

$75....... shipped.



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