View Full Version : PID part shopping info

Mike W1
04-08-2015, 09:18 PM
Some observations from my experience so far and noting what
problems others seemed to have when ordering parts. Some of
the descriptions on ebay you have to look for the fine print pretty
hard and some aren't too clear.

1. PID itself. Some only read out in Celsius but it's easy enough to
make up a little conversion chart and generally a little less expensive.
I have a unit from Auber's and also a Rex C-100, both ends of the
expense scale. They both work but there's a definite convenience
there with the more expensive one. The MyPin units appear to do
real nice job in the midrange price. Some PID's are 220v only and
at least here in the US that doesn't work. Get a 110v input unit.
2. PID should have a SSR output, NOT a Relay Output.
3. Ensure that the SSR unit is equipped with a DC input, NOT AC
4. SSR should be rated at least for 25 amps.
5. Use a heat sink with the SSR, they're inexpensive.
6. Use the heat transfer grease under the SSR.
7. The thermocouple (TC) should be of the type K with at least a
4" probe. I prefer my 6" ones but not necessary.
8. Another item not crutial but handy if you'd like to use the PID with
a different pot is a panel/jack so you can just plug in another TC.
Think for your sizer heater for instance.
9. If you're wanting indicator lights you want 110v neons like those
that Radio Shack carries.

I'm hoping others will add to this list to make it a little easier for the next
guys when they shop for parts.

04-08-2015, 09:43 PM
I used the button type submersible K type thermocouple in mine. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the pot to mount it. So far, the "MyPin" PID seems to be everything I need, and mine is programmable to read in degrees Farenheit. I also used a socket and plug from Auber so I can use different thermocouples for different projects. I also have a spare 4 inch TC for use with a LEE pot (very annoying). Also, don't be intimidated by the wiring, the wiring is pretty easy, if you can replace the cord in a table lamp, and can read the diagram on the side of the MyPin, you can do this. One other thing, I ordered my parts through Amazon, and my friend ordered his through EBay. Both orders were shipped from China, and took around three weeks. If you're in a hurry, make sure you order from somebody who stocks these parts in the Sates, like Auber.

04-08-2015, 09:57 PM
Buy at least two thermocouples. I had one bite the dust w/ no spare on hand. I proceeded to buy five off of eBay. Don't want to be w/out one again. Some of the vendors there ship quickly. I had the TCs in five business days.

04-08-2015, 10:35 PM
You're absolutely correct there. TCs are cheap, and seem to be a bit on the fragile side.

04-08-2015, 10:43 PM
+1 on stocking up on TC's. I bought half a dozen (the second time!) :evil:

04-09-2015, 09:41 AM
Mouser,Gigiparts,Graingers,and other industrial type venders can save you a lot of steps and get quailty parts.

04-09-2015, 06:42 PM
A toggle switch, instead of plugging in and unplugging the unit. I used the lighted type to show power on.

A durable cord and plug to power your unit. I use mine in an unheated barn and used an orange, 14ga cut off extension cord. This can also be made from an old desktop computer cord with the panel jack used to make the cord removable.

15A inline fuses, to keep the magic smoke from coming out.

A connector block, to neatly attach your connections.

A box (alum, metal, plastic) to house all of it.

04-10-2015, 05:27 AM
Because of the relatively low cost of the bits, I built a complete spare (just in case [smilie=1:). I also keep a spare T/C, as suggested by others.

As Mike said, if shopping on ebay read the blurb attached to the PID very carefully, also many of the "kits" sold on there supply a relay-output PID with an SSR!!!

04-10-2015, 09:47 AM
If you have a local "Ace" Hardware Store, they sell 14, 12, and 10 gauge wire by the foot. The also have a lot of little things like the single plug outlets, switches, and the like. I reused the power inlet plug and power switch from my PC power control, but found it's too much of a hassle to solder to the terminals, so they'll all be new from this point on. I wired mine with 12 gauge wire, but will probably only use 14 gauge from now on. My TC socket and plug came from Auber, and I've already complained about the pieces I ordered from Amazon that took three weeks to bring in from China. I'll probably buy from Auber if I'm in a hurry, but may stock a few PID controllers and SSRs if I can get a realistic price. I could sell these at gun shows easily enough.