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gwpercle
04-06-2015, 01:44 PM
Tested new Lee mould yesterday. (R) 356-120-TC and Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant.
Scrubbed mould with acetone and toothbrush, then scrubbed with dawn and hot water, let dry. Worked over all rough edges. Had Liquid Wrench Dry Lube 4 oz. dropper bottle, cheaper than big spray can and I planned on applying it with a Q-Tip. Gave the cleaned and deburred mould top, cavities, top and underside of sprue two coats of lube, letting each dry.
Lubed and heated mould, started casting. The stuff doesn't contaminate the cavities!!!
As soon as I had it up to casting temperature, the boolits would just drop out , no tapping , no sticking ...it kind of scared me how they just fell out when I opended the mould!
Helps keep smears from underside of sprue plate and top of blocks , you still have to wait for sprue to harden, which I at times rush. And help keeps lead from sticking to top of sprue plate especially around the holes. Any smears come right off with a coarse rag or steel wool. Had no galling problems.
Going to start using this on all my moulds, seems to work. I even got some around the sprue plate screw , it seemed to lubricate it without contaminating the cavities .
I cast about 200, took a short break , then used the dry lube on the warm mould before I resumed casting for another 300.
It contains polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) , don't know how it works for rust protection, but it gets along just fine with melted boollit alloy. I like it!
Also like these new Lee moulds, screw didn't loosen but if it does I know how to fix it.

Gary

twc1964
04-06-2015, 01:51 PM
Did you put it in the cavities? I thought for sure that you would have some really ragged boolits if so. Keep us informed if you dont have any problems as time goes on. Thx for ite info thus far though.

gwpercle
04-06-2015, 06:12 PM
Yes, two coats were applied to the cavities before starting to cast and after the break , another two coats to the warm (not Hot) cavities were applied before starting again . I only got the 4 oz. bottle because I expected contamination. Could not find any Kroil locally to try , but another poster mentioned the dry lube and it works.
I've never had boolits fall from the mould this easily and it does keep the galling/smearing down.
I have another new mould Lee C358-158-SWC that's going to get treated and tested , hopefully, next weekend...
This stuff is looking good...makes casting go faster and easier. Just love the way the boolits hop out of the mould all by themselves!
Gary

twc1964
04-06-2015, 08:36 PM
That would be nice. I have a couple lee molds that tend to stick. I may have to give it a try. Thx

pworley1
04-06-2015, 09:01 PM
This sounds like it might be worth a try.

Airman Basic
04-06-2015, 09:08 PM
That would be nice. I have a couple lee molds that tend to stick. I may have to give it a try. Thx
Same here. Just ordered 2 of the 4 oz. bottles:
http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L512-Lubricant-CERFLON/dp/B000CPJLE4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1428368559&sr=1-1&keywords=Liquid+Wrench+dry
Free shipping!

bangerjim
04-06-2015, 10:16 PM
Just another case in point that lube and grease and oil in molds do NOT cause wrinkles! Cold molds and cold lead cause wrinkles.

Scrubbing the dickens out of a mold is a waste of time from what I have found. I go directly to casting lead after using my molds for hot melt glue boolits and using PAN (GREASE!!) as a cavity lube/release agent.

Perfect lead boolits........if the mold is heated to FULL casting temp on a hotplate. Not dipping the edge in the lead pot or setting it on top of the pot.

95% of my over 2.5 dozen Lee molds drop boolits from the cavities effortlessly. The dry lube would probably only imporlve that. I will try it. Thanks for suggestiong it.

banger-j

scottfire1957
04-07-2015, 01:25 AM
PTFE. Teflon, yes?

Edit: Yep, that's it.

scottfire1957
04-07-2015, 01:33 AM
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_fume_fever

Be safe.

Edit:
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=15+1829&aid=2874

http://www.healthguidance.org/entry/15813/1/Teflon-Coating-Dangers.html

Ya'll should read before you start heating stuff over 400 degrees. Might not hurt ya, but it also might cripple ya. MSD sheets serve a purpose. Or not.

scottfire1957
04-07-2015, 01:49 AM
Here's one from folks that don't like flourides.

http://www.fluoridealert.org/wp-content/pesticides/teflon.effects.lung.htm

scottfire1957
04-07-2015, 01:50 AM
Just in case:

http://www.answers.com/Q/What_are_the_symptoms_of_teflon_pan_poisoning

scottfire1957
04-07-2015, 02:03 AM
Experimentation is fun, fulfilling and sometimes fruitful. (How's that for alliteration?)

PTFE has been around since before me, so, it's old. It has also been known to be toxic under high heat for almost that long.

Do what ya want. Darwin is always looking.

dragon813gt
04-07-2015, 06:08 AM
I won't use the stuff solely because of how it smells. Used to use it at work for burner linkages. In a small room it will about knock you over. It will also leave a white haze on anything it touches. This is obviously the lubricant. Just be wary of overspray.

runfiverun
04-07-2015, 11:21 AM
scottfire is talking about creating fluorine gas.
you know,, the stuff the Geneva convention was worried about in ww-1.

bangerjim
04-07-2015, 11:29 AM
I cast 100% outside using Mother Nature's ventillation system ( and my evap cooler), so any fumes of any kind are a mute point to me specifically. Those of you that cast in a man-cave or small sealed building might want to use caution?

gwpercle
04-07-2015, 12:56 PM
If the exploding gunpowder, molten lead , flux fumes , bullet lube smoke and lead fumes weren't enough to kill you , the PTFE will! Is there any aspect of casting boolits that will not devastate the human body?
Teflon cooking pans....had no idea they were killing me as I cooked a meal!
I'm beginning to think everything in life is frought with danger.
Oh well, I've been casting way too long to stop now, so I'm just going to keep on keepin on.
And add PTFE to that long list of things out there that can kill me!
Gary

bangerjim
04-07-2015, 02:05 PM
If the exploding gunpowder, molten lead , flux fumes , bullet lube smoke and lead fumes weren't enough to kill you , the PTFE will! Is there any aspect of casting boolits that will not devastate the human body?
Teflon cooking pans....had no idea they were killing me as I cooked a meal!
I'm beginning to think everything in life is frought with danger.
Oh well, I've been casting way too long to stop now, so I'm just going to keep on keepin on.
And add PTFE to that long list of things out there that can kill me!
Gary

Don't forget snakes, spiders, cars, airplanes, motorcycles, knives, ISIS, tigers, mountain lions, falling in the shower...... well.................just about anything..........if used wrong. Or you are REEEEEEEEEEEEALLY unlucky!

banger

Smoke4320
04-07-2015, 02:12 PM
So I have a Question .. If nothing will stick to Teflon ...how do they get the Teflon to stick to the pan :) :)

willie_pete
04-07-2015, 02:16 PM
Details, details. :bigsmyl2:

wp

dragon813gt
04-07-2015, 02:21 PM
If you haven't heard of the "Teflon Flu" then I guess you live under a rock. Teflon is a lot more harmful then most of the other casting related hazards. It's melting point is over 600 degrees. I'm not convinced using it on molds will be a danger. After all your pots and pans are subjected to high temps every time you put a flame under them. The coating does degrade over the years. But it doesn't pose that much of a danger.

melloairman
04-07-2015, 03:32 PM
Part of me says to not post this but . I have been using dry molly on the molds as a spray but not in the cavities . Because it will with stand a higher temp than the dry slide . I have also used both for bullet lube in my air rifles with 28 inch barrels . 8-10 bhn 1050 fps with no leading . But I do not have heat as well from the hot gas . I do not know if they would work as a bullet lube for powder burners . Marvin

gwpercle
04-07-2015, 07:27 PM
Don't forget snakes, spiders, cars, airplanes, motorcycles, knives, ISIS, tigers, mountain lions, falling in the shower...... well.................just about anything..........if used wrong. Or you are REEEEEEEEEEEEALLY unlucky!

banger
Deranged airline pilots , mad bombers, drivers not paying attention, angry wife, hospitals....hospitals are a great place to get all kinds of bad stuff and die.
Gary

leeggen
04-07-2015, 11:40 PM
Dang it, I was just got down how to sniff my molds and not get burn marks on my nose. Oh well just another thing the doctors can check for in my blood. Cast on my friends cast on!
CD

sawzall
04-08-2015, 12:53 AM
Just another case in point that lube and grease and oil in molds do NOT cause wrinkles! Cold molds and cold lead cause wrinkles.

Scrubbing the dickens out of a mold is a waste of time from what I have found. I go directly to casting lead after using my molds for hot melt glue boolits and using PAN (GREASE!!) as a cavity lube/release agent.

Perfect lead boolits........if the mold is heated to FULL casting temp on a hotplate. Not dipping the edge in the lead pot or setting it on top of the pot.

95% of my over 2.5 dozen Lee molds drop boolits from the cavities effortlessly. The dry lube would probably only imporlve that. I will try it. Thanks for suggestiong it.

banger-j

So how come I can be casting away like mad, dropping perfect boolits from a properly heated mold, but if I over lube the pins and get lube in the cavities, it takes a very long time to get good boolits again if I don't stop and clean the cavities? Only change is oil in the cavities.

gwpercle
04-08-2015, 08:45 AM
So how come I can be casting away like mad, dropping perfect boolits from a properly heated mold, but if I over lube the pins and get lube in the cavities, it takes a very long time to get good boolits again if I don't stop and clean the cavities? Only change is oil in the cavities.
Exactly my very same experience, any time I got two stroke oil near a mould...especially with Lee moulds on the underside of sprue plate and top of blocks, they want to smear and gall there! instant wrinkled bullets big time , and I was doing the Q-Tip application as sparingly as possible, following posted directions ! Went to using Permatex
anti-seize lube because it was thicker...worked better but I can still contaminate the cavity with an application to underside of plate, top of blocks and sometimes to sprue plate pivot screw. That's why I tried the dry lubricant in the first place, It's dry and I hoped it wouldn't get into cavities and cause wrinkles. Especially underside of the sprue plate and top of blocks.
It works...it doesn't "transfer" to other places and it doesn't cause boolits to wrinkle even when applied to the cavities themselves....makes good boolits and they want to jump out of the cavities.
It may be hazardous to my health...but hey , what isn't hazardous? Just getting older is hazardous! Today I got out all my Lee moulds , bottle of dry lube and I'm going to treat every one with it. I still use Permatex on the alignment pins because it doesn't get into the cavities and contaminate them. I hate to start getting wrinkled boolits in the middle of a session and this dry stuff helps.
Gary

mozeppa
04-08-2015, 08:56 AM
i have a can of spray graphite that goes on wet , then dries , i spray the foil til its black when i powder coat and they don't stick at all
on the foil. ..not one in 125!

maybe i'll shoot some on my molds if they ever arrive and report back on my findings.

gwpercle
04-08-2015, 11:20 AM
I've used the spray on black graphite mould release for a time, it does work, at first everything is fine. But after a time , it builds up ....then it's a bear to remove and the moulds get all covered in black crudd. I finally cleaned all the grungy moulds up and started back to square one, trying nothing in the cavities. The problem I was having was mould lubrication , migration to cavities and the sprue plate underside and top of block galling.
Maybe the dry lube will build up over time too, but for now it's not black in color and I can wipe off the thin dry film easily and it doesn't cause wrinkled boolits !...so we shall see how this works out.
Gary

woodbutcher
04-08-2015, 01:16 PM
[smilie=s:Just remember,we all have a terminal illness.It`s called conception.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

country gent
04-08-2015, 02:38 PM
After 2 coats done twice for 4 light coats was there any change in the bullets as cast Dia? I have seen some mould release agents that would build up making bullets smaller over time. We used ptfe in a sheet ( turcite) for glued on to machine members and hand fitted back to size and fit. It worked good for this purpose ut didnt get near the heat levels and ran lubricated. Slick 50 oil additive had PTFE added to reduce engine wear also. This has been around for any years in industry and consumer products. Many things have been used as mould release agents graphite, Molybneum, micas, even carbon ( smoke). most can build up reducing bullets size and some can affect the "sharpness of the bullets appearence. A good clean well cut mould properly finished drops bullets very well as it is.

gwpercle
04-08-2015, 03:37 PM
After the 2 coats done twice for 4 light coats, with dry lube, I could not detect a build up or a change in boolit size.
The dry lube film is extremely thin. The graphite spray is heavier , almost like black paint and does affect the size and sharpness...those are the reasons I stopped using it.
I am going to watch out for build up , size and sharpness effects...I'm only going to apply a thin coat, with a Q-tip to control how much is applied , after wiping down the cold mould. I don't plan on spraying the mould just rub on dry lube with a Q-Tip.
Gary

GhostHawk
04-26-2015, 09:42 PM
I read this thread, slept on it, ordered some Liquid Wrench, waited a week for it to arrive.
Before it arrived I took all my molds upstairs, hot soapy water soak, then a scrub, then rinse with clear hot water.

Fixed any that tended to work screws loose. And waited.

When it finally arrived I took 2 molds that had worked themselves slowly into hanging a bullet.

Used the liquid wrench on a qtip into the cavity's, on the face, under the sprue cutter, etc. Mine so far have only gotten 2 light coats, a couple minutes apart.
I let them both dry for a day, then fired them up.

Boolits "SPRANG" out of the cavity's on opening or with a very light tap.

Ok, do 2 more, same results, I now have 3 which have not gotten it, and I'm thinking the only way I'll find them is when I'm casting.

If you let them dry for a day, warm your mold as you normally do, there is nothing causing any problems for any of my bullets.
Except the speed goes up and I have to force myself to stop and do a 5 count after pour so the sprue can cool.

In short, OP Bless you sir!
It works exactly as advertised. No sweat, no problems, no cursing, no frustration.

MacFan
07-07-2015, 09:35 AM
I tried Liquid Wrench Dry Lube today for the first time on a Lee 6 cavity mold. I'm sold, no more mystery lubes, bee's wax or 2-cycle oil anywhere near my molds. This stuff worked in the cavities, on the sprue plate and alignment pins. I did a test run of 50 casts (300 bullets) not a single reject from the first cast to the end. Thank you gwpercle!

Edit: I used the spray can version.

minmax
07-07-2015, 10:04 AM
I used the spray version on my RCBS Summit press, that my father gave me. After I totally de-greased it I put several coats on it, it has been slicker than snot. I had thought of using on my molds when tried it on the press. As far as chemicals, I already have nervous system damage, so what is another thing added to the list.

MacFan
07-07-2015, 10:30 AM
I left the garage and sprayed the mold in the backyard, the propellant/vehicle/solvent stinks. I run my molds around 400 to 435F and Teflon decomposes at 662F. Considering how long it it continues to work in the mold I doubt if there's any charring or burning going on.

Echo
07-07-2015, 01:59 PM
Look guys - there is such a trivial amount of Teflon used in this process that even if it DID outgas, I doubt if it could be detected, much less be dangerous.
Samo for the Teflon-coated muffin molds we use for ingots. That coating is a couple thousandths thick - any outgassing will be trivial...

gwpercle
07-07-2015, 02:24 PM
Guys, you all are welcome for the Dry lube tip, It wasn't my idea, another member said it worked so I gave it a try. Just wanted to spread the knowledge. I found a can of Dry lube in a spray can in my garage and going to use it next time....spraying is easier to cover the entire mould surfaces.
But I'm keeping the Q-tip for spot treating .
Glad you guys found it helpful and thanks to the other member who posted about it.
What I really like about the treatment is how the boolits jump out of the mould and , of course the no contamination/wrinkle thing.
Gary