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forrest-hunter
03-18-2015, 08:34 AM
Set trigger is not working on hawken rifle - it sets- I pull firing trigger it clicks but have to pull firing trigger back more to get it to fire (takes 8-9 lbs) -tried the adjusting screw - it works - problem is that when the set trigger clicks the hammer is not released so the firing trigger works as if it is not set -

johnson1942
03-18-2015, 09:17 AM
are you sure it is the trigger. sometimes the lock is set too tight in the wood. when mine dont work and this seems strange i sit and stare at it, lock, trigger, and the routed areas for both and after a while it come to me what the problem is and then it is fixed for good. their is no one out in my rural area to help me either and ive never had one broke, just something need adjustment. sorry i couldnt be more to a point.

thegatman
03-18-2015, 09:44 AM
sounds like lock is binding. Check trigger out of the stock.

lancem
03-18-2015, 10:28 AM
Been years since I've had one apart but I'm thinking loose or broken spring on the trigger or as said above, lock binding or set too high.

Pipefitter
03-18-2015, 10:42 AM
At that weight trigger pull it might be the sear engagement is set too deep, What brand of hawken?

forrest-hunter
03-18-2015, 12:04 PM
Checked trigger - is working fine - how do I remove lock to ck. - it is a cabelas interarms - looks like it has never been fired -

oldracer
03-18-2015, 01:38 PM
The way I was taught to check trigger/hammer issues was to do it this way. First, make sure the set trigger works without cocking the hammer. Pull the rear trigger to set the front to make sure it works and then try the set trigger. A build up of wood dust, powder residue, oil, etc can jam the trigger badly. Second, pull the whole trigger assembly out. Try setting the rear trigger as before, watching what happens to the set trigger as it should catch and then release. Look for loose or broken parts such as a spring, etc. I use spray brake cleaner to really blow any goop out of the trigger and the spray well with a lube and let drain. Third, while the trigger is draining, cock the hammer while watching the internals to see if there is any dragging or crud build up that is causing the mechanism to bind. If the hammer cocks okay, try manually releasing it using a small screw driver through the opening where the trigger assembly attaches to the stock. It should fall freely with little pressure. Fourth, if the hammer seems sluggish, pull it off the rifle and clean it the same as the trigger assembly. Reattach it after wiping off excess oil. The reattach the trigger assembly and adjust the rear and front adjustment screws to get correct action to fire the gun.

ejcrist
03-18-2015, 02:02 PM
Is it a flint or percussion? For a flint, pull the lock by removing the lock bolt(s) on the opposite side and carefully removing the lock from the stock. You can unscrew the bolt(s) a little and the push on them which will push the lock out.

johnson1942
03-18-2015, 02:04 PM
thanks old racer, that the way it needed to be said. i do all that by stareing at it over and over while handling the trigger and lock and something stands out.also trigger and lock put too tightly into the routed wood can cause trouble. nothing can be too tight.

KCSO
03-18-2015, 02:11 PM
You may have a small screw that regulates the spring pressure and attitude of the rear trigger. If so it is not set to the right tension and attitude. You want the rear trigger to just miss the sear as you cock the gun. That should give you max pressure on the rear trigger.

oldracer
03-21-2015, 01:32 PM
I posted several videos that show the trigger and lock internals on a Hawken that was made many years ago. It was cleaned a few months ago so the internals were not too gooped up with powder sludge, dust and wood particles. They show the removel and reattachment of the various parts and how to adjust the front and rear trigger spring screws. Make sure to cycle things several times before you try shooting and as a safety issue I was taught to fire several caps before the first powder load to make sure the trigger will set correctly and that the release is the same each time. Most times I get the gun fully loaded, then do a full cock of the hammer and pull the rear trigger before I put on the percussion cap. We have had a few shooters at our monthly matches have an accidental ignition when setting the trigger and the cap on the nipple.

forrest-hunter
03-21-2015, 03:10 PM
Thanks to everyone -took it to my gunsmith - he had to replace a small sear coil spring with a weaker one - at the same time he polished everything - work great now

fouronesix
03-21-2015, 03:25 PM
Good deal! The sear spring is one of the parts that is usually overlooked. Surprised it's a coil spring- usually the sear spring is a hairpin. When the set trigger bar hits the sear, it is only carrying its own inertia to pop the sear nose out of the sear notch on the tumbler.

Either very heavy main trigger or single trigger trigger pull or FTF set trigger problems are commonly traced to either a sear spring that is too heavy or when the sharp edge of free end of the sear spring (hairpin type) digs into the sear pivot boss.