Boolit Inspection

[crabo]

I am trying to put some information together on inspecting cast boolits before you reload them. What should a person look for when he wants to put together accurate loads? I know there are some things that we take for granted, but I am wanting to put something together for those of us who are just starting to cast and are looking to test our loads for accuracy.

What is an acceptable weight variance? I would think it would be different for
9mm and 45/70. How do you determine that? I have read that a light boolit can contain a void, and that is a major reason to weigh.

How about hardness and runout? I noticed cabine tree has a dual tester. It looks pretty interesting to me. I am guessing the runout would be more important to the rifle shooter than the pistol shooter.

I will put all of the suggestions together in a post after I get some suggestions.

Whadda think? Anyone want to help the newbies out?

Crabo

[beagle]

You've embarked on a comprehensive project here.

First off, if you want accuracy, you have to be an ******* with yourself when visually inspecting the bullets. Reject anything that don't look right and is not filled out no matter how much you like the bullets that you cast.

Then you have to nose first size. I shot crooked bullets for years. Base first sizing just don't get it.

Proper GC fit and seating is a biggie. I'm guessing a lot of the flyers we blame on lube purging are actually GCs coming off in flight. Super glue if necessary.

As far as weighing, I've done that too. .22s in .1 grain increments gave me good accuracy up to 200 yards. 270 grain .38-55s weighed to .2 grain gave me less than minute of angle at 300 yards and I was really surprised at that performance but I did it.....once.

I trim cases and I neck turn to get uniform thickness and chamfer. After that neck resize.

Use the mildest primer that will ignite your powder.

Don't use fast powder but something relatively mid range in burning rate that will pretty much fill your case or agood portion thereof.

Now, this may sound picky but I've stumbled on each of these things at one time or another. You can tell that I'm not an expert but I can put together cast that shoots pretty good. I been practicing long enough. There are obviously more things that you can do but this is my input./beagle

[crabo]

This is exactly the type of info I am looking for. I think once I get some more and put it together, it will help me and a lot of others.

Crabo

[nemo]

Beagle 1000% ON
1 Good Lub
2 Boolet length for rate of twist
3 keep vel about 80% of J prjo

4 go for accuracy
5 Boolet diam for bore

[Newtire]

I am reading this one with interest. Nose first sizing eh?...would a Lee push thru fill the bill for this?

My 2¢=I'd say a good flat base has got to be important.

[runfiverun]

i try to inspect the base area the most, sprue-cut voids, wrinkles
and i look at them like they are trying to hide something.

if they are good to go then weigh them set a criteria for weight
they will sort themselves out by piles.

and take that same care when sizing seating etc good takes care be a bit anal
with them it usually payes off

set yourself a standard and strive for it
it starts at the beginning with good metal and goes through the whole process

[cbrick]

Start with inspecting the bullets. I "may" accept a minor (very minor) flaw on the nose but never, never on the base. The base of the boolit steers it, NOT the nose. My first inspection is when I open the sprue, there is no better time see and see easily if the base is perfect. No such such thing as an acceptable bullet with an incomplete base fillout. I have a much higher reject rate than anyone I know and most are for a problem on the base. I never cast for speed or quantity. My casting goal is simply; How many good boolits did I get and my standards for me and my casting are high. Next, don't forget the driving bands, fillout here needs to be complete also.

I made gas check sizing dies for all my calibers and size all of my checks for a perfect slip fit on the shank with zero lead shaving and completely flat checks against the bullet base. The check goes on the base and the base steers the boolit and it must be as perfect as the base. Put a crooked check on a boolit and any possible accuracy is gone before you even load it into the case.

beagle is right, nose first sizing sizes boolits more concentricly and they shoot better. The Lee would probably be fine though I haven't used one. Use a flat sizing punch that covers as much of the bullet base as possible, one that barely fits into the die.

Most of my casting and shooting is for long range revolver so I'll differ with beagle on powder. I'm a big fan of as slow a powder that you can get enough in the case and still reach the desired velocity.

The word anal was mentioned above, describes me to a "T". Its either a good cast boolit or its the same as a sprue and goes back in the pot. No middle of the road cast bullets for matches or groups. The middle is for politics and people that can't make up their minds. You want the most accuracy from cast? No so-so bullets.

When your working up an accuracy load and need or want to change anything change ONLY ONE THING at a time. If more than one thing is changed and the load is either better or worse you'll have no idea which did it. If you change two things and there is no change could there have been with one or the other of the changes?

These are a few my zero variation things when shooting for groups. Lot's more but this should give your brain something to chew on and get you started.

Rick

[beagle]

Newtire...The Lee does a fine job on nose first sizing. We've rigged adapters that take standard Lyman/RCBS sizer dies in a single stage press. I get tired of buying Lee dies when I already have dies that will work.

I'm thrifty...make that cheap./beagle


I am reading this one with interest. Nose first sizing eh?...would a Lee push thru fill the bill for this?

My 2¢=I'd say a good flat base has got to be important.

[MikeH]

Crabo. Hope you and others are paying attention. Although I've been casting for over 20 years, and have cast thousands, I consider myself to be a beginner. I look at the entire bullet, check weight, and try to get a decent bullet for plinking. Most of my attempts are with WWs, although I do add some Linotype for rifle bullets. Beagle made some great statements. It's fun to "roll my own", but I have no illusion of creating super bullets like most of these guys apparently do. The advise given by the experts is really appreciated!

I've got a particular bullet that refuses to keep the gas check on (probably because of size/alloy?), I'll try the glue. thanks Beagle.